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Jungpablo:
Please I have a 2014 Toyota Avalon, I changed my left back tire, I bought Belgium tyres, the other 3 are brand new, the Belgium tyre is showing low tyre pressure on my dashboard but my mechanic say I should not worry, should I be bothered?

You need to change the TPMs sensor of the Tyre. I had a similar issue recently. Took it to a guy who scanned the wheels, then changed two tpms sensors. Problem solved. It’s not a Tyre issue. The sensors are on the wheels.

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RyanAutomotive:
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord . My car just stopped responding to the throttle. Like when you press it down, it raise the engine but doesn't move. Pls what can I do to get it fixed

SMGGroup:
I have a 2007 Honda Accord . My car just stopped responding to the throttle. Like when you press it down, it raise the engine but doesn't move. Pls what can I do to get it fixed

Good morning sir.

Vehicle: Honda Accord 2007 (Automatic)
Concern: Engine revs when throttle is pressed, but vehicle does not move

Let’s address this properly before anyone starts suggesting random repairs or opening the gearbox unnecessarily.



Professional Diagnostic Insight

From your description:

• You press the accelerator
• Engine RPM increases normally
• Vehicle does not move or barely moves

This clearly tells us:

• The engine is working
• The problem is between the engine and the wheels (transmission system)

This is a classic sign of loss of drive from the transmission.



What This Usually Means

On a 2007 Honda Accord, the most common causes are:

* Low or Burnt Transmission Fluid
• If fluid level is too low → no hydraulic pressure
• If fluid is burnt → clutches cannot engage properly

* Worn or Burnt Clutch Packs (Internal Transmission Damage)
• Engine revs, but gears don’t engage
• Very common if the car has been driven with low fluid or overheating

* Torque Converter Failure
• Power from engine is not being transferred to the gearbox

* Shift Solenoid / Valve Body Failure
• Transmission not applying correct hydraulic pressure



* Important Observation

If the vehicle:
• Suddenly stopped moving
• Or gradually got worse before this happened

That gives a clue:

• Gradual failure → fluid issue or clutch wear
• Sudden failure → possible major internal or pressure loss

Also, if you noticed before now:
• Delayed movement
• Gear slipping
• Harsh shifting

Then the problem has been building up over time.


📌 What Should Be Checked Immediately

Before any major decision:

• Check Transmission Fluid Level
• Must be checked at correct temperature
• Confirm it is not low

* Check Fluid Condition
• If it smells burnt or looks dark → internal damage likely

* Scan for Transmission Fault Codes
• Even if no light is on, codes may be stored

* Confirm If Any Gear Engages
• Reverse (R)
• Drive (D)
• Low gear (L)

This helps narrow down the fault.



* Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT keep revving the engine — it can worsen damage
• Do NOT allow random “trial repairs”
• Do NOT rush into replacing the gearbox without diagnosis
• Do NOT continue driving the vehicle in this condition


* Professional Insight

When a vehicle revs but does not move, it is almost always a hydraulic or internal transmission failure, not an engine problem.

If caught early, sometimes it can be:
• Fluid-related
• Solenoid/valve body issue

But if ignored, it usually progresses to full transmission rebuild or replacement.


🏢 Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

The next step is structured transmission diagnosis, not guesswork.

This should include:
• Proper fluid inspection
• Diagnostic scan
• Hydraulic pressure evaluation

Only after this can you determine whether it is:
• Minor repair
• Valve body/solenoid issue
• Or full gearbox overhaul

If you can bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited carries out professional transmission diagnostics and fault analysis to accurately determine the cause and prevent unnecessary expenses.



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Ryan Automotive Limited
Transmission Diagnostics | Fault Code Analysis | Professional Repair Approach

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My 05 Honda Accord lags when in high gear, I mean 1 & 2, then, gives a kind of choking sign even after flooring the throttle and then, picks up again. It usually happens whenever I slow down and it's worse if I am using the A/C.
Then, the a/C doesn't really get cold when not in motion, but blow ice cold once I move/accelerate (even if I'm parked and I raise the car, the a/C will also blow chilling air.

CertifiedGee:
My 05 Honda Accord lags when in high gear, I mean 1 & 2, then, gives a kind of choking sign even after flooring the throttle and then, picks up again. It usually happens whenever I slow down and it's worse if I am using the A/C.
Then, the a/C doesn't really get cold when not in motion, but blow ice cold once I move/accelerate (even if I'm parked and I raise the car, the a/C will also blow chilling air.

Good afternoon sir.

Vehicle: Honda Accord 2005 (Automatic)
Concern: Vehicle lags/chokes during low gear acceleration + A/C not cold at idle but cold while moving

Let’s address this properly before unnecessary gearbox or A/C parts are replaced.


* Professional Diagnostic Insight

From your explanation:

• Vehicle struggles mostly in lower gears (1st & 2nd gear range)
• Feels like choking even when throttle is pressed hard
• Picks up again afterward
• Problem becomes worse when A/C is ON
• A/C is weak at idle but becomes very cold once the vehicle moves or RPM increases

• These symptoms are strongly pointing toward:
• Engine load issue
• Weak idle/performance response
• And possible A/C system efficiency problem occurring together.


* Important Observation

The key clue here is this:

• The problem becomes worse when the A/C is ON.

That means:
The engine is struggling to properly handle additional load from the A/C compressor.

Also:

• A/C cooling better only while moving usually indicates:
• Weak condenser airflow
• Cooling fan issue
• Or poor compressor efficiency at idle.


• Most Likely Causes (Based on Your Symptoms)

1, Weak Cooling Fan Operation (Very Common)
If the cooling fans are weak or partially failing:

• Condenser cannot cool refrigerant properly at idle
• A/C becomes warm when stationary
• Cooling improves once vehicle moves and natural airflow increases

This is one of the most common causes of:
• “A/C cold only while moving.”


2, Dirty Throttle Body / Weak Idle Compensation
When A/C engages:
• Engine load increases
• ECU should compensate by stabilizing idle and throttle response

If throttle body is dirty or airflow control is weak:
* Vehicle may choke, hesitate, or lag during acceleration.


3, Weak A/C Compressor Dragging the Engine
A partially failing compressor can:
• Overload the engine at low RPM
• Cause sluggish acceleration
• Cause choking sensation with A/C ON.


4, Airflow / Fuel Delivery Issue
Possible:
• Weak fuel pump
• Dirty injectors
• Restricted airflow
• Weak ignition performance

The A/C load simply exposes the weakness more aggressively.


5, Transmission Delayed Response (Secondary Possibility)
If the lag mainly happens during gear transition:
* Transmission pressure or solenoid response should also be checked.


* What Should Be Checked Now

Before replacing compressor or gearbox:

1, Check Cooling Fan Performance
Very important.

Both fans should:
• Run properly
• Run at correct speed
• Respond correctly when A/C is ON.


2, Inspect Throttle Body & Air Intake System
Check for:
• Carbon buildup
• Restricted airflow
• Weak idle compensation


3, Perform Live Data Scan
Monitor:
• Engine load
• Fuel trims
• Throttle response
• A/C load compensation
• RPM behavior during lag


4, Check A/C System Pressure
To confirm:
• Compressor efficiency
• Refrigerant condition
• Condenser cooling performance


5, Inspect Transmission Behavior
Especially if hesitation feels gear- related

* Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT rush into changing gearbox
• Do NOT replace A/C compressor blindly
• Do NOT continue overloading the engine with unresolved A/C drag
• Do NOT ignore weak cooling fan operation


• Professional Insight

Your symptoms suggest the engine is struggling under added load, especially at:
• Low RPM
• Idle
• Initial acceleration

And the A/C issue strongly suggests:
• Inadequate cooling performance at stationary condition.

Most times, this combination is caused by:
• Weak cooling fans
• Throttle/airflow issues
• Or compressor drag — not necessarily major engine failure.


• Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

The correct next step is a structured engine performance and A/C load diagnosis, focusing on:

• Cooling fan operation
• Idle compensation behavior
• A/C compressor load testing
• Engine live data analysis
• Transmission response verification

At Ryan Automotive Limited, we carry out professional engine diagnostics, A/C system analysis, and load-performance testing to accurately identify the root cause without unnecessary trial-and-error repairs.

Early diagnosis prevents both transmission stress and A/C system damage.


Precision • Transparency • Excellence

Ryan Automotive Limited

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senator2k9:
Its not about the tyre but the sensors on the tyres.

This is true. However, some used tyres have little holes that may be reducing the air pressure occasionally, and they can't hold air overtime without loosing some. The issue should be, did the TPMS light come on immediately after tyre change when the tyres are air-guaged properly, or does it appear after some time, probably due to air leakage.

I am suspecting a leak in either intake or exhaust manifold in my honda accord 010 V6... No error codes from scan Nd no rough idling or whatever.

The only thing I noticed was that when I newly got the car ,on early morning cold starts there was usually steam kinda coming out from exhaust even water droplets but they worked on the cat system and after that the steam is usually kinda faint on cold morning start or even unoticeable....

Pls is it the work of panel or mechanic to actually inspect for any leaks and possibly a fix ?

oladele239:
I am suspecting a leak in either intake or exhaust manifold in my honda accord 010 V6... No error codes from scan Nd no rough idling or whatever.

The only thing I noticed was that when I newly got the car ,on early morning cold starts there was usually steam kinda coming out from exhaust even water droplets but they worked on the cat system and after that the steam is usually kinda faint on cold morning start or even unoticeable....

Pls is it the work of panel or mechanic to actually inspect for any leaks and possibly a fix ?

Good morning sir.

Vehicle: Honda Accord 2010 V6
Concern: Suspected intake or exhaust manifold leak. No fault codes, no rough idle, but noticeable change in exhaust steam after catalytic converter work.

Let’s address this properly before dismantling the engine or replacing parts unnecessarily.


* Understanding the Concern

From your explanation:

• No Check Engine Light.
• No stored fault codes.
• Engine idles smoothly.
• No noticeable loss of power.
• Cold-start steam and water droplets were more visible before work was carried out on the catalytic converter (CAT).
• After the CAT system repair, the steam is now much less noticeable.

Based on this information alone, I would not immediately conclude that you have an intake or exhaust manifold leak.


* Important Observation

Many vehicle owners mistake the white steam and water droplets seen during a cold morning start for a fault.

In reality, this is often normal condensation.

When the engine is cold:

• Water vapour naturally forms inside the exhaust system.
• As the exhaust heats up, the condensation exits as steam and water droplets.
• Once the exhaust reaches operating temperature, the steam disappears.

This is perfectly normal and is usually not a sign of engine damage.

The fact that the amount of steam changed after work was done on the exhaust could simply be because the exhaust system was altered or replaced, affecting how condensation exits the system.


* What Should Be Checked Now

Before concluding there is a manifold leak, I would recommend the following:

1, Inspect the Exhaust Manifold

Check for:

• Cracks.
• Broken manifold studs or bolts.
• Damaged manifold gasket.
• Carbon soot around gasket surfaces.

A leaking exhaust manifold usually leaves visible black carbon deposits.


2, Inspect the Intake Manifold

Check for:

• Vacuum leaks.
• Damaged intake manifold gasket.
• Loose manifold bolts.
• Cracked vacuum hoses.

An intake manifold leak often causes:

• Rough idle.
• Lean fuel trims.
• Hissing sound.
• Poor engine performance.

Since your engine idles smoothly and there are no fault codes, an intake leak is currently less likely, although it should still be verified.


3, Check Live Data

A professional scan tool should be used to monitor:

• Short-Term Fuel Trim (STFT).
• Long-Term Fuel Trim (LTFT).
• Oxygen sensor activity.
• Air/Fuel ratio readings.

Fuel trims can reveal small intake leaks even before a fault code is stored.


* Perform a Smoke Test

If an intake leak is suspected, a smoke machine is one of the most reliable methods of locating even very small vacuum leaks that may not be visible during a normal inspection.


* Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT replace the intake manifold gasket based on suspicion alone.
• Do NOT replace the exhaust manifold without confirming a leak.
• Do NOT assume reduced cold-start steam means something is wrong.

Proper diagnosis should always come before parts replacement.


* Professional Insight

From everything you’ve described, I am more interested in verifying whether a leak actually exists rather than assuming one does.

The absence of:

• Fault codes,
• Rough idle,
• Poor performance,
• Misfire,

makes a significant intake manifold leak less likely.

Likewise, if there is no loud ticking noise on cold start or visible carbon deposits around the exhaust manifold, an exhaust manifold leak is also less likely.

A proper inspection and live-data analysis will provide a much clearer answer than replacing components based on suspicion.

* Who Should Inspect It?

This type of diagnosis is primarily the responsibility of a qualified automotive mechanic or diagnostic technician, especially one experienced with Honda engine systems.

If repairs such as welding a cracked exhaust manifold or fabricating exhaust pipes become necessary, an exhaust specialist may also be involved.

A panel beater would generally not be responsible unless there is body damage affecting the exhaust or engine bay.


* Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

The next step should be a structured engine diagnostic procedure, including:

• Professional computerized diagnostic scan.
• Live fuel trim analysis.
• Intake smoke test.
• Exhaust manifold inspection.
• Vacuum system inspection.
• Physical inspection of the catalytic converter work previously carried out.

At Ryan Automotive Limited, we believe in confirming whether a leak actually exists before recommending repairs. This approach prevents unnecessary expenses and ensures the root cause is identified correctly.

If you’re within Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited will be glad to carry out a comprehensive inspection and determine whether the issue is related to the intake system, exhaust system, or simply a normal operating characteristic.


Precision • Transparency • Excellence

Stop postin false info. Stop using chatgpt

RyanAutomotive:
Good morning sir.

Vehicle: Honda Accord 2010 V6
Concern: Suspected intake or exhaust manifold leak. No fault codes, no rough idle, but noticeable change in exhaust steam after catalytic converter work.

Let’s address this properly before dismantling the engine or replacing parts unnecessarily.


* Understanding the Concern

From your explanation:

• No Check Engine Light.
• No stored fault codes.
• Engine idles smoothly.
• No noticeable loss of power.
• Cold-start steam and water droplets were more visible before work was carried out on the catalytic converter (CAT).
• After the CAT system repair, the steam is now much less noticeable.

Based on this information alone, I would not immediately conclude that you have an intake or exhaust manifold leak.


* Important Observation

Many vehicle owners mistake the white steam and water droplets seen during a cold morning start for a fault.

In reality, this is often normal condensation.

When the engine is cold:

• Water vapour naturally forms inside the exhaust system.
• As the exhaust heats up, the condensation exits as steam and water droplets.
• Once the exhaust reaches operating temperature, the steam disappears.

This is perfectly normal and is usually not a sign of engine damage.

The fact that the amount of steam changed after work was done on the exhaust could simply be because the exhaust system was altered or replaced, affecting how condensation exits the system.


* What Should Be Checked Now

Before concluding there is a manifold leak, I would recommend the following:

1, Inspect the Exhaust Manifold

Check for:

• Cracks.
• Broken manifold studs or bolts.
• Damaged manifold gasket.
• Carbon soot around gasket surfaces.

A leaking exhaust manifold usually leaves visible black carbon deposits.


2, Inspect the Intake Manifold

Check for:

• Vacuum leaks.
• Damaged intake manifold gasket.
• Loose manifold bolts.
• Cracked vacuum hoses.

An intake manifold leak often causes:

• Rough idle.
• Lean fuel trims.
• Hissing sound.
• Poor engine performance.

Since your engine idles smoothly and there are no fault codes, an intake leak is currently less likely, although it should still be verified.


3, Check Live Data

A professional scan tool should be used to monitor:

• Short-Term Fuel Trim (STFT).
• Long-Term Fuel Trim (LTFT).
• Oxygen sensor activity.
• Air/Fuel ratio readings.

Fuel trims can reveal small intake leaks even before a fault code is stored.


* Perform a Smoke Test

If an intake leak is suspected, a smoke machine is one of the most reliable methods of locating even very small vacuum leaks that may not be visible during a normal inspection.


* Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT replace the intake manifold gasket based on suspicion alone.
• Do NOT replace the exhaust manifold without confirming a leak.
• Do NOT assume reduced cold-start steam means something is wrong.

Proper diagnosis should always come before parts replacement.


* Professional Insight

From everything you’ve described, I am more interested in verifying whether a leak actually exists rather than assuming one does.

The absence of:

• Fault codes,
• Rough idle,
• Poor performance,
• Misfire,

makes a significant intake manifold leak less likely.

Likewise, if there is no loud ticking noise on cold start or visible carbon deposits around the exhaust manifold, an exhaust manifold leak is also less likely.

A proper inspection and live-data analysis will provide a much clearer answer than replacing components based on suspicion.

* Who Should Inspect It?

This type of diagnosis is primarily the responsibility of a qualified automotive mechanic or diagnostic technician, especially one experienced with Honda engine systems.

If repairs such as welding a cracked exhaust manifold or fabricating exhaust pipes become necessary, an exhaust specialist may also be involved.

A panel beater would generally not be responsible unless there is body damage affecting the exhaust or engine bay.


* Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

The next step should be a structured engine diagnostic procedure, including:

• Professional computerized diagnostic scan.
• Live fuel trim analysis.
• Intake smoke test.
• Exhaust manifold inspection.
• Vacuum system inspection.
• Physical inspection of the catalytic converter work previously carried out.

At Ryan Automotive Limited, we believe in confirming whether a leak actually exists before recommending repairs. This approach prevents unnecessary expenses and ensures the root cause is identified correctly.

If you’re within Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited will be glad to carry out a comprehensive inspection and determine whether the issue is related to the intake system, exhaust system, or simply a normal operating characteristic.


Precision • Transparency • Excellence