₦airaland Forum

Aspireahead:
090.3777.1876. message me on whatsapp

Alright. Thanks

Hustlersdiary:
Do you have any idea where I can get the OEM nozzles and I don't know what you mean by HAWA. Thanks.

HAWA is Honda West Africa, the last I knew, their office was at Adeola Odeku

You can try ordering online

Please, how to resolve these codes, I have changed shift solenoid 3 times but the code keeps coming back. Scanned again and it was part of codes thrown by ECU. Vehicle struck in limp mode and atimes, doesn't engage drive at all.

The location of the leak matters, the leak is from inside, they'll have to bring down the gear. It's called the torque converter seal. Thanks

Kaymaxi2222:
they can fix it without them dropping the gear just that it can be stressful cos the place is tight

macuwon:
The location of the leak matters, the leak is from inside, they'll have to bring down the gear. It's called the torque converter seal. Thanks

I know the seal you are talking about and I have had it repaired on my car too so it can be fixed without dropping the gear. There is a casing that housed this particular seal and the gear cable. Let them lose it and they will be able to work on the seal just that even with that it is still tight. But not impossible

flootintin:
Please, how to resolve these codes, I have changed shift solenoid 3 times but the code keeps coming back. Scanned again and it was part of codes thrown by ECU. Vehicle struck in limp mode and atimes, doesn't engage drive at all.

You are changing the wrong solenoid.
The culprit solenoid B is inside your transmission and not mounted.
That said, your issue is electrical.
I can guide you to fix if you are good with car electricals.

macuwon:
Please who knows a gear master that is very good to seal transmission oil leak on my Honda civic 8th gen in lagos. The leak is from inside where the transmission meets the engine, so it requires the gear to be brought down, I am very skeptical about the fix and I've been buying 1ltr of transmission fluid every month, the car is still tokunbo and I don't want to invite problems for myself by giving someone who would bring down the gear and would create a new bigger problem for me.

The honda 8th gen transmission atf can leak from one of these three seals.
Right and or left inner CV joint seal
Gear Selector cable seal.
Trace the transmission oil along these path and confirm which is leaking
I have never heard or seen a honda transmission leak atf from the torque converter area.
Any oil leak from that area is always from the rear main seal.

Took it to 4 different workshops and it was the same diagnosis after they inspected the leak. 4 of them confirmed that the gear has to be brought down. I also checked in with chatgpt and it confirmed that the torque converter seal indeed leaks and can only be reached by bringing down the transmission.

chillex8:
The honda 8th gen transmission atf can leak from one of these three seals.
Right and or left inner CV joint seal
Gear Selector cable seal.
Trace the transmission oil along these path and confirm which is leaking
I have never heard or seen a honda transmission leak atf from the torque converter area.
Any oil leak from that area is always from the rear main seal.

macuwon:
Took it to 4 different workshops and it was the same diagnosis after they inspected the leak. 4 of them confirmed that the gear has to be brought down. I also checked in with chatgpt and it confirmed that the torque converter seal indeed leaks and can only be reached by bringing down the transmission.

And they confirmed that the torque converter seal is leaking?
If they are 100% certain, let them bring down the transmission and fix the leak before you pay.

chillex8:
You are changing the wrong solenoid.
The culprit solenoid B is inside your transmission and not mounted.
That said, your issue is electrical.
I can guide you to fix if you are good with car electricals.

Please kindly pinpoint the location of the shift solenoid B in the transmission. All enquiry had always pointed to the one mounted on the transmission. I have changed it thrice but after a couple of months, it goes dead. I test and not click hence the coil is gone. I think the issue is electrical and I need guidance to deal with it.

flootintin:
Please kindly pinpoint the location of the shift solenoid B in the transmission. All enquiry had always pointed to the one mounted on the transmission. I have changed it thrice but after a couple of months, it goes dead. I test and not click hence the coil is gone. I think the issue is electrical and I need guidance to deal with it.

Will attach a picture of honda shift solenoid B(always inside the transmission).

Can I see a picture of the solenoid you replaced?

While you are at it, check all the fuses mounted under the driver side for continuity.

chillex8:
Will attach a picture of honda shift solenoid B(always inside the transmission).

Can I see a picture of the solenoid you replaced?

While you are at it, check all the fuses mounted under the driver side for continuity.

No blown fuses

flootintin:
No blown fuses

That's the linear shift solenoid

P0756 Shift solenoid B is the middle solenoid on the right row.

Can you clear codes and re-scan again.

Trace the wiring from the connector port of the shift solenoids. There could be a kink or broken lead.

You can message me via my signature for swift response.

Before I pay ke?

You dey whine naija mechanic?

chillex8:
And they confirmed that the torque converter seal is leaking?
If they are 100% certain, let them bring down the transmission and fix the leak before you pay.

Hello house
can someone please connect me with someone that engraves plate numbers on vehicles
thank you

08033726861

flootintin:
No blown fuses

Ah, this isn't the solenoid for the code.

What you have pictured is Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid (I believe that is A, the dual one is B & C , since its 4 cylinder ), its different from the shift solenoid which is inside a casing that chillex8 posted above, (which the code points to)

The internal solenoids rarely go bad. You might have a wiring problem, somewhere in between the solenoid and the ECU, as far as I know with all the diagnosis I have done, and the wiring diagram for 7th gen accord, yours is 8th gen, its most likely similar , and there is no fuse between it and the ECU .

One part you may be missing is, have you checked if your transmission oil is at the right level ?

If it is , you might want to drain the transmission oil and check it , is it black (bad), is it thick brown/dark brown (excess clutch wear, clutch material might be blocking the solenoid) , is it pink with yoghurt consistency (this means coolant has mixed in, also bad), are there metal particles in it or does the oil look shiny like there are suspended metals in it, or metals at the bottom of the container you used to drain it.... if there is , something might be broken internally . You want to see light red, or slightly dark red.

Before you drain the entire transmission oil , you can drain a very small sample first, because original transmission oil is expensive . Anything less than 75k for 4-5 liters is most likely counterfeit . Only use honda recommended transmission oil , or original valvoline maxlife that lists DW-1 on its details.

Sorry for the long rant just trying to share my experience. Honda can give weird transmission codes, and people get confused, sometimes you just need to do 1-2 transmission oil changes depending on how bad the oil looks.

However this should be your order of diagnosis,

1. Find the wiring diagram for your car and the connection between the solenoid and the ECU, to know which connector and which specific pin, do a continuity test between the wire of that solenoid and the ECU pin. Please be very careful, if you bridge the wrong pins you can fry your ECU. To be safe, unplug the battery completely , put the car key in on position, and maybe turn on your headlights to drain any residual power from the ECU , before you start your tests, that way if two wires that are not supposed to touch come in contact, nothing gets damaged. In my experience, its possible your wiring is fine and you just have a slack pin for this particular solenoid, at the connector that plugs into the ECU . But still diagnose, because the wire isn't just a straight wire from the solenoid to the ECU, there is at least one junction I know of. I don't think you have a bad ground , because if you do, you would most likely have other transmission codes. Also check if there is oil and dirt inside the connector at the transmission, check for slack pin there too.

2. If the wiring is fine, you would need to test the solenoid itself , I don't know how experienced you are with electrical testing , or if your scan tool is advanced enough, it would have the feature to actuate the solenoid and you listen for click. If your scan tool does not have the feature , you would have to manually test it. If you are not electrically inclined or mechanically inclined I would recommend you watch Youtube videos on this, or get someone who knows what they are doing to do the test

3. If all else fails including changing the solenoid then you try to change the transmission oil , and check the oil as i described above .


I also forgot to ask , if you clear the code and you start the engine when its cold, as you are stationary , shift through all the gears multiple times while your hand brake is up and while pressing the brake pedal down. Cycle through all gears from P,R,N, D,3,2,1 , and back up again like five times , in each position wait like 3 seconds . Does the code come back without you even moving at all ?

Does the limp mode and the code only trigger after driving for a while ? .... If this is the case, its most likely one of these; you have bad oil, clogged filter, or the solenoid is failing. Because as the transmission oil heats up the resistance of the solenoid increases and it makes it harder for the ECU to command it ON, because at various shift points, it sends a specific current to it . If that current can't overcome the resistance, it stays off.

Another question: has the cooling line between the transmission and the radiator been bypassed ?

Sorry if my thoughts, grammar and tips are not coherent, I was typing it as things were coming to mind based on my experience.

flootintin:
Please kindly pinpoint the location of the shift solenoid B in the transmission. All enquiry had always pointed to the one mounted on the transmission. I have changed it thrice but after a couple of months, it goes dead. I test and not click hence the coil is gone. I think the issue is electrical and I need guidance to deal with it.

Just seeing this, if not I would have addressed it in my reply above. You probably have a short to ground(wiring issue as you have rightly stated), that fries the solenoid over a period of time. But even at that , if this solenoid fails you should get something like P0746, do you have record of codes at the point when the solenoid is no more clicking ?

Can you also share freeze frame data , it can give us some more information on whats going on.

Excessive heat and very bad oil can also damage the solenoid, check my questions in my previous reply too.

JayJ27:
Goodevening everyone, I use a 2007 Honda accord. The car has been serving me fine but the main issue I have been having is the ball joint pulling out(specifically the right side) It has happened to me 3 times this year and honestly it's making me want to sell the car.
The mechanic has advised I will have to buy complete upper and lower arm tokunbo

Are you using the correct Honda recommended tyre sizes on your car ?

Hustlersdiary:
Good evening everyone I get this error codes on my 2018 CR-V with 1.5 liter turbo engine, I've taken it to oyingbo severally they just fix one or two things and after driving the error code comes back, I read online the injectors could cause it the rewire serviced the injectors the last time saying we don't know the state of the tokunbo injector we'll be buying claiming there's no original new injectors in the market. If anyone has experienced these issues or know where I could get new injectors in Lagos to try see if that'll solve the problem. Car rough idles a little in the morning but it drives fine just don't like the error codes on the dashboard and the intelligent driving system does not work when the error code comes up. Will appreciate any input.
P0172
P05A3
P16E8
U0401-68
U0416-68
C1870-00 these are the error code that comes up when I scan the car.

Before you buy injectors , get someone qualified to actually diagnose the car. It could be the MAF sensor, it could be a wiring issue.

I diagnosed a car recently, with P0172 that was hard to figure out . The problem ended up being a voltage drop at the ECU for the MAF negative pin . MAF, MAP, air fuel ratio sensors( primary o2 sensor ) work hand in hand to determine the air fuel ratio and injector pulse width, there are other things , but these are the primary ones . If one of them is getting the wrong signal, the ECU would get confused and be on the safe side and run rich to protect the engine. In this particular case the ECU was seeing that a high volume of air was passing through the MAF, so the ECU was adding more fuel to get the ideal air fuel ratio of 14:7 ... The MAF circuit was lying to the ECU...


Before you change any part do a proper diagnosis , also share freeze frame data, it can contain an abnormality that would help in pointing you in the right direction.

Donald3d:
Before you buy injectors , get someone qualified to actually diagnose the car. It could be the MAF sensor, it could be a wiring issue.

I diagnosed a car recently, with P0172 that was hard to figure out . The problem ended up being a voltage drop at the ECU for the MAF negative pin . MAF, MAP, air fuel ratio sensors( primary o2 sensor ) work hand in hand to determine the air fuel ratio and injector pulse width, there are other things , but these are the primary ones . If one of them is getting the wrong signal, the ECU would get confused and be on the safe side and run rich to protect the engine. In this particular case the ECU was seeing that a high volume of air was passing through the MAF, so the ECU was adding more fuel to get the ideal air fuel ratio of 14:7 ... The MAF circuit was lying to the ECU...


Before you change any part do a proper diagnosis , also share freeze frame data, it can contain an abnormality that would help in pointing you in the right direction.

In love with your analysis bro

luvinhubby:
In love with your analysis bro

Thank you.

Donald3d:
Ah, this isn't the solenoid for the code.

What you have pictured is Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid (I believe that is A, the dual one is B & C , since its 4 cylinder ), its different from the shift solenoid which is inside a casing that chillex8 posted above, (which the code points to)

The internal solenoids rarely go bad. You might have a wiring problem, somewhere in between the solenoid and the ECU, as far as I know with all the diagnosis I have done, and the wiring diagram for 7th gen accord, yours is 8th gen, its most likely similar , and there is no fuse between it and the ECU .

One part you may be missing is, have you checked if your transmission oil is at the right level ?

If it is , you might want to drain the transmission oil and check it , is it black (bad), is it thick brown/dark brown (excess clutch wear, clutch material might be blocking the solenoid) , is it pink with yoghurt consistency (this means coolant has mixed in, also bad), are there metal particles in it or does the oil look shiny like there are suspended metals in it, or metals at the bottom of the container you used to drain it.... if there is , something might be broken internally . You want to see light red, or slightly dark red.

Before you drain the entire transmission oil , you can drain a very small sample first, because original transmission oil is expensive . Anything less than 75k for 4-5 liters is most likely counterfeit . Only use honda recommended transmission oil , or original valvoline maxlife that lists DW-1 on its details.

Sorry for the long rant just trying to share my experience. Honda can give weird transmission codes, and people get confused, sometimes you just need to do 1-2 transmission oil changes depending on how bad the oil looks.

However this should be your order of diagnosis,

1. Find the wiring diagram for your car and the connection between the solenoid and the ECU, to know which connector and which specific pin, do a continuity test between the wire of that solenoid and the ECU pin. Please be very careful, if you bridge the wrong pins you can fry your ECU. To be safe, unplug the battery completely , put the car key in on position, and maybe turn on your headlights to drain any residual power from the ECU , before you start your tests, that way if two wires that are not supposed to touch come in contact, nothing gets damaged. In my experience, its possible your wiring is fine and you just have a slack pin for this particular solenoid, at the connector that plugs into the ECU . But still diagnose, because the wire isn't just a straight wire from the solenoid to the ECU, there is at least one junction I know of. I don't think you have a bad ground , because if you do, you would most likely have other transmission codes. Also check if there is oil and dirt inside the connector at the transmission, check for slack pin there too.

2. If the wiring is fine, you would need to test the solenoid itself , I don't know how experienced you are with electrical testing , or if your scan tool is advanced enough, it would have the feature to actuate the solenoid and you listen for click. If your scan tool does not have the feature , you would have to manually test it. If you are not electrically inclined or mechanically inclined I would recommend you watch Youtube videos on this, or get someone who knows what they are doing to do the test

3. If all else fails including changing the solenoid then you try to change the transmission oil , and check the oil as i described above .


I also forgot to ask , if you clear the code and you start the engine when its cold, as you are stationary , shift through all the gears multiple times while your hand brake is up and while pressing the brake pedal down. Cycle through all gears from P,R,N, D,3,2,1 , and back up again like five times , in each position wait like 3 seconds . Does the code come back without you even moving at all ?

Does the limp mode and the code only trigger after driving for a while ? .... If this is the case, its most likely one of these; you have bad oil, clogged filter, or the solenoid is failing. Because as the transmission oil heats up the resistance of the solenoid increases and it makes it harder for the ECU to command it ON, because at various shift points, it sends a specific current to it . If that current can't overcome the resistance, it stays off.

Another question: has the cooling line between the transmission and the radiator been bypassed ?

Sorry if my thoughts, grammar and tips are not coherent, I was typing it as things were coming to mind based on my experience.

When I clear the code, the D light is static but hard shift into drive then goes into limp mode. At cold start, engaging drive - the D light blinks immediately and it doesn't move until I rev high a couple of times then it engages and goes into limp mode. I measured the transmission oil when hot and it is ok. Colour is light red. Occasionally,I see air bubbles.

The cooling lines are still intact. I tested the solenoid and didn't get a click sound. I have a permanent ECU-PCM error code 83-14 and I suspect it is triggered by the PO756 code.

Donald3d:
Are you using the correct Honda recommended tyre sizes on your car ?

I don't get your point

JayJ27:
I don't get your point

On your driver door, there is a printed recommended tyre size. Are you using a tyre size that is bigger than what is printed ?

flootintin:
When I clear the code, the D light is static but hard shift into drive then goes into limp mode. At cold start, engaging drive - the D light blinks immediately and it doesn't move until I rev high a couple of times then it engages and goes into limp mode. I measured the transmission oil when hot and it is ok. Colour is light red. Occasionally,I see air bubbles.

The cooling lines are still intact. I tested the solenoid and didn't get a click sound. I have a permanent ECU-PCM error code 83-14 and I suspect it is triggered by the PO756 code.

Did you check the oil with the car off AFTER, you cycled through the gears or less than 60 seconds after a drive , on a completely flat ground ?, A very small incline on the ground would give a false reading , the engine should also NOT be running.


Kindly confirm which of the solenoid you tested, the external one you pictured or the internal one ? . Before you replace the solenoid, I would suggest you still check your wiring, its possible there is a short to ground somewhere that's frying the solenoid you said you have replaced multiple times, solenoids don't fail that quickly.

83-14 error code points to either a bad connection between the VSA modulator-control connector and the first connector/"plug" for your ECU , bad wiring or bad ECU

I would suggest you check the connectors first. I have worked on a diagnosis where an electrical problem caused the pins of the ECU and some other connectors to overheat and there was physical melting marks on the connectors. If the burnt plastic gets into the pins, it could be preventing proper connection . You need to do full electrical diagnosis before you replace any solenoid, there appears to be an electrical problem as you have rightly stated.

If wiring issues are ruled out , it means one or more drivers for your transmission in the ECU is damaged, and you might need to replace the ECU, but this should be a last resort, wiring and connector issues need to be checked first.

Donald3d:
On your driver door, there is a printed recommended tyre size. Are you using a tyre size that is bigger than what is printed ?

No, but Does that have anything to do with the ball /joint dislocation??

JayJ27:
No, but Does that have anything to do with the ball /joint dislocation??

Yes it does . The suspension components are designed to work best with a specific tyre size , if you use one that is smaller or larger than the recommended size, the suspension components won't perform optimally.

For example, if you try to wear a shoe that's larger than your leg, you won't be able to walk well in it. It's not a perfect analogy, but it gives you an idea of what I am trying to say.

Donald3d:
Yes it does . The suspension components are designed to work best with a specific tyre size , if you use one that is smaller or larger than the recommended size, the suspension components won't perform optimally.

For example, if you try to wear a shoe that's larger than your leg, you won't be able to walk well in it. It's not a perfect analogy, but it gives you an idea of what I am trying to say.

I understand.
I am using the recommended tyre size, however it seems my upper or lower arm needs to be changed

JayJ27:
I understand.
I am using the recommended tyre size, however it seems my upper or lower arm needs to be changed

Also do a full suspension system check. One failing/failed component, can cause other components to fail prematurely.

Good evening my people. Please I have noticed that sometime I do have slight hesitation while on high speed and my car is about to shift into gear 4. Like 2-4 seconds delay. The car is an 8th generation civic.

And also, while on high speed, if I apply my brake abruptly, the car will veer towards the passenger side but if it is not emergency braking, and I press the brake pedal gently as I have already anticipated to brake from a long distance, my steering will be vibrating, I don't experience vibration on high speed though only when breaking.
Lastly, can bad down stream 02 sensor triggers P0325 knock sensor
P0685 Powertrain

I've previously changed the knock sensor at the rear of the engine but I never change the 02 sensor

sandammy:
Good evening my people. Please I have noticed that sometime I do have slight hesitation while on high speed and my car is about to shift into gear 4. Like 2-4 seconds delay. The car is an 8th generation civic.

And also, while on high speed, if I apply my brake abruptly, the car will veer towards the passenger side but if it is not emergency braking, and I press the brake pedal gently as I have already anticipated to brake from a long distance, my steering will be vibrating, I don't experience vibration on high speed though only when breaking.
Lastly, can bad down stream 02 sensor triggers P0325 knock seP06P068585nsor
P0685 Powertrain

I've previously changed the knock sensor at the rear of the engine but I never change the 02 sensor

I have recently worked on a car with the exact slight hesitation problem you are experiencing, its going to be hard to give you a solution without actually diagnosing the problem physically . It could be wiring issues, a bad clutch pressure control solenoid, dirty transmission oil , poor ECU connection, e.t.c

Concerning the veering and vibrating, you most likely have one or more bad suspension component, again, its going to be hard to tell you what the problem is without physically seeing the car. But you can try jacking the car up , assume your car is a clock, grab the tyres in the 3 and 9 o'clock position and try to shake, repeat for 12 and 6 o'clock position. Also visually take a look for torn bushings . Do this for both front tyres. Take a look at your brake disk, the edges, does it look like there is a "lip" at the edge ? . The brake disc/rotor could also be warped(bent)

As for the codes, I don't think the 02 sensor would cause knock sensor codes, except they share the same circuit which I doubt, knock sensors are usually one wire connectors , routed directly to the ECU because its very important to detect knock , so the ECU can adjust ignition and protect the engine if necessary. You need to check the wiring and be sure you bought the right knock sensor . The last code could also be a wiring problem or bad ground somewhere. Its hard to tell without proper diagnosis.

boxypane:
Just got an accord 05, when I shift to drive, engine vibrates. Seeing my mechanic tomorrow. Abeg any ideas?

Engine / gearbox seat.