smiley001:
It's likely cost of Supplys generally increase because we are just struggling with the cost of diesel for our trucks.

Haulage and Transportation cost is fully affected. A few weeks ago we were getting diesel for 125 naira per litre but now at my regular filling station, a good diesel goes for 175 naira per little(a good diesel). This is 50 naira increase.

If a truck goes to Ajah with let's say 170 litres, the added cost now to it is 50 naira in 170 places which gives 8500 naira. This increase can't be neglected as we are just struggling with the total price at the moment.

Prices of material supplys may go up again due to hike in diesel price.


Businesses are closing down everyday, May God help us.

twinskenny:


Right order sir

n3xt:
@ Bandwidth,

The plan was to help our man fix a DPC in a house without one. And the koko be say "shingba" no dey (the client do not have much). Here's the final part of the work done to the clients little budget.

This can be improved upon by introducing damp proof membrane, pouring slurry concrete inside the foundation block hollow to prevent rising damp and more.

Hope this simple fix work for you.

Ensure you install reinforcement no matter how small in size (8mm) it is in order to prevent crack.

(Don't mind the blurry pics, they are old pics gotten from iCloud)




Badore, Jan 2013

n3xt:


Thanks for the correction. @ bandwidth, take note.

brag3:
Appreciated.
Do you have ideas of the costs mentioned?

EgunMogaji:

Thank you my Chief.
Ede ku awe yi Sir.

bandwidth:


Okay, concrete flooring. Does it then mean that the aim of preventing dampness in the future would have been defeated since its not damp proof course?

bandwidth:


Okay, concrete flooring. Does it then mean that the aim of preventing dampness in the future would have been defeated since its not damp proof course?

segcymoor:

It depends on the water level of the environment. If it's an environment where water level rises during raining season.





---------
I am afraid no remedy!

olumide4christ:


I have said time and time again on this forum that one of the major drawbacks of not constructing a dpc (or ground floor bed) before proceeding with the superstructural walls is RISING DAMPNESS. It is STANDARD to cast your ground floor bed (or dpc or german floor as they locally call it) completely before continuing your superstructural walls.

I have also said previously on this forum, that as a QUANTITY SURVEYOR, there is NO COST SAVINGS in using the method of doing concrete flooring after superstructural walls WHEREAS there are many disadvantages such as rising dampness, cracks along the joint between floor and wall arising from differential or uneven settlement, ingress of termites and insects through open cracks mentioned above, etc.

segcymoor:

It depends on the water level of the environment. If it's an environment where water level rises during raining season.





---------
I am afraid no remedy!

olumide4christ:


I have said time and time again on this forum that one of the major drawbacks of not constructing a dpc (or ground floor bed) before proceeding with the superstructural walls is RISING DAMPNESS. It is STANDARD to cast your ground floor bed (or dpc or german floor as they locally call it) completely before continuing your superstructural walls.

I have also said previously on this forum, that as a QUANTITY SURVEYOR, there is NO COST SAVINGS in using the method of doing concrete flooring after superstructural walls WHEREAS there are many disadvantages such as rising dampness, cracks along the joint between floor and wall arising from differential or uneven settlement, ingress of termites and insects through open cracks mentioned above, etc.

KolaShangOne:


Also doing it on a Nairalander's project at the moment. Inspired by Lastpage.. Lol..

But it's still all about preference in respect to the builder kowope you mentioned.

You like it as an alternative, he doesn't.
It's cheaper and lighter but a little harder to do.

Bottom line, it's practicable.

---

Haven't requested permission to show this pic, so it's just a sneak

lastpage:


Its just a suggestion l made, many other people like Madam gabby also made valid contributions to the idea.
And l am delighted that YOU have taken the "bold step" to make it a "reality".

I hope the owner grants permission to allow us follow it as you go along, ...even if it is just showing ONLY the Roof-part of the building (while cutting-off all the lower parts to prevent identification.... l respect people's privacy a lot )

Being "harder' to do .....will diminish with time, as you gain "experience" in doing it, over and over again, refining your technique and generally "advancing" your methods.

We learned something.



Lastpage!

I was wondering on something else!
One of those "money-saver" ideas you get before dozing-off!

There is this capping granite/mortar mix that is put on the last Block-level in a building.... on which you place the roof "Wood Beams".
Questions:
1.) Is it necessary and compulsory? What are the advantages if used, ...and disadvantages, if not used?

2.) Hollow Blocks tend to swallow a lot of Mortar/Concrete mix as you try to lay the mix on it (bricklayers usually use "broken blocks" to fill such holes, to prevent the Mortar from falling into the holes of the hollow-blocks.

In my own opinion, doing this adds to the weight of the building .... but does not really contribute any structural strength to it.

So, l am thinking: What if l can use the Cement paper BAGS to block this holes.... and then lay my Mortar or Concrete Mix on it (Just the topmost holes, while avoiding it crossing over to where you have the Block-body itself)?

That way, l am thinking one would have:
a) Saved on the cost of the broken Blocks used to fill the holes
b) Reduced the overall weight of the building
c) Achieved your aim of preventing the mortar from slipping down into the Block holes
d) Put the Empty Cement Bags to good use instead of waiting for Mallam to come and pack them off!

Does this make sense or am l just being silly again?




Lastpage!

mufutau55:
@Lastpage
How about just blocking every other or three blocks holes with concrete mortar and embedding two pieces of short 10mm iron rod inside and when the concrete is ready the rods could be used to tie down the roofing wall plate. Filling every other three blocks will surely save money and weight. Hope you understand my explanations.
Something like that was done on my project with parapet and roofing preparations. I will see if I can find a picture and attach later.

Hajji M.

mufutau55:
@Lastpage
How about just blocking every other or three blocks holes with concrete mortar and embedding two pieces of short 10mm iron rod inside and when the concrete is ready the rods could be used to tie down the roofing wall plate.
Filling every other three blocks will surely save money and weight. Hope you understand my explanations.
Something like that was done on my project with parapet and roofing preparations. I will see if I can find a picture and attach later.

Hajji M.

abdulwastecx:


This method will expose some of the sancrete block to direct point load from the roof trus[/b]s, knowing that these sandcrete blocks we use here [b]have very low strength (less than 1N/mm2) such point load may causes cracking of the wall in the long run.

lastpage:




Thank you Hajj M and Abdulwastecx!

I am referring to Head Courses!

From the post of AbdulWastecx, l guess they are important and serve a very important purpose of EVENLY DISTRIBUTING WEIGHT of the Roof, on the sandcrete block Walls. That answers my first question.

Now to the next stage, which is where the post of Hajj M, (up there) comes into play!
I always like to learn and like even more, to REFINE METHODS that are already established.
I believe that we can always improve on what we already know, by trying newer methods.

Such improvements will be guided b[/b]y
1.) Achieving the "set objective"
2.) Doing it in a way such that it costs less, it is safe (or even safer), faster or less-effort consuming.

My own suggestions were to "save on Materials used .. and thus, overall WEIGHT" (Just like Hajj M), [b]but by ensuring that the mortar or concrete mix, is PREVENTED from falling into the Holes.

Hajj M has come up with a brilliant suggestion involves not actually putting the "Head Course" on the whole SandCrete Block layout.
Hajj has proposed we just do it at intervals.....while putting tie-rods into such intervals (l hope l comprehended you properly Hajj? ) to hold the roof beams.
This will definitely save on materials and weight (as we completely avoid most of the Blocks).

But Abdulwastecx has pointed out that we would be putting excessive weight of the Roof on such Blocks that were filled with mortar mix since they would form POINTS where the weight of the roof will be acting downwards upon.
he reminded us that our Blocks are not that strong.
I agree 100% with this observation.

Now, l am thinking there is a way we can do what Hajj M suggested, while achieving What AbdulWastecx has in mind, and at the same time, achieving our objective:

What if we do what Hajj M suggested, not on the blocks but on the Column points such that the weight of the roof does not actually lie on the SandCrete Blocks, but on the reinforced Columns which are designed to carry such weights, from the onset.
Excess iron (allowed deliberately during iron-size cutting for the columns) is then used to tie-down the Roof beams
Wherever the Columns do not fall at locations where Beams overlap or meet, we can then use Hajj method on the Block at that point but just in a "supporting capacity" to the ones done at the Columns!
Further-on, we can further reduce loads by ensuring that the filling of the blocks in Hajj's suggestion, doesn't go beyond the last two blocks levels, by blocking those holes, at that level, with the Cement Bags!

I kind-of think it is a good practice to block those Holes (prevent Rodents like Lizards, Cockroaches, rats, e.t.c) from finding a place to live or hide in the Block crevasses.

In summary (harmonising the different suggestions),
1) use Column-points ONLY to serve as "head course" anchor points for the Roof Beams (They can hold the weight conveniently)

2.) Add additional Head Course points, if necessary, using Sandcrete Block Holes filled to a limited depth (using Cement Bags to limit the depth) with Mortar and protruding 8mm iron or tie- rods.

3.) Block all "unused" Sandcrete Block holes with empty Cement Bags.

What do you guys think?
I have learnt something new from the two of you today. I will definitely implement these "options" in a few weeks time when a project l am doing (but abandoned due to time-factor), will get to that stage!

Thanks for your response.



Lastpage!

EgunMogaji:


Solid points all the way.

When I've questioned builders on here, I've been told that it's due to the clients buoyancy and sometimes need to build fast due to omo onile, etc

No one has said it saved money but this settling issue that you brought up is alarming.

My two ongoing builds have monolithic flooring.

abdulwastecx:



Very good analysis and taught provoking one at that... The column option is not practicable because in most residential houses columns are spaced at minimum of 3m center to center accros the exterior walls where this roof rest and having it in mind that roof truss are generally spaced at 1.2m center to center, this will leave so many roof truss out of line (unless we are using iron truss).

We can also provide a very thick wall plate to span between these column but this wall plate will be under considerable bending and shear at point where the roof loads act on them, thereby necessitate for need of a very thick wall plate which may be expensive and contribute lots of weight to the building.

Ways to reduce cost is to reduce the section of the concrete of the head course to 4'' instead of the normal 9'' and to use nominal reinforcement like 4 y8 instead of 4y12, the mix ratio can also be reduced

erico2k2:

Baba morning .you remember our arguments about this same issue? And we both settled for the German for be for the full structure. There is cost implications if you do not do it at the initial stage.your rooms are boxed in.

geejayjax:
Good morning Senior Engrs, been way back on this educative thread,
Pls, I just need detailed explanation on how to calculate the materials (wood and long span roofing sheet) needed for an hip roof. Pls Sirs ur help will be very much appreciated

EgunMogaji:


Oh blimey, yes sir I do.

This is why I love this place. We have unprecedented access to high level information from the pros. And for free too. What a smashing deal, init

geejayjax:


Abeg make una answer ur Boi

erico2k2:

You need to atleast give dimensions or the roof plan then the pros would take it frm there

brag3:
Hello House,
Please can you advice on the sequence of activities to be done before completion of finishing.

Currently tiling and installation of railings are being done so activities pending are:

Toilet fittings
Electrical fittings
Installation of kitchen cabinets and room wardrobes
Painting
Interlocking

Is this the right order for these activities?
what is the average for doing interlocking per sqm with/without supply of materials?
Also what is the average price of installation of simple kitchen fittings? a worktop is already in place so all that is needed a few doors/drawers beneath the worktop and two cabinets are the top.
Finally what is the cost of fabrication of a 4ft wardrobe using either mdf or hdf?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

brag3:
Hello House,
Please can you advice on the sequence of activities to be done before completion of finishing.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

erico2k2:

Yes ooooo,
Ps .anybody from PH here? I heard it's raining cats n dogs there so now work on sites today.