cne010:


Hi I think you can get a launch scanner with the new exchange rate I don't what the price would be. Edit; checking online you can get one for as little as $200 including shipping to Nigeria.

. . . at this present exchange rate, $200 (@385)little? for one who's complaining about paying 1,500 for every scan

spur79:
@stremzy21 pls hw much u gt ur 03 c180. manual or automatic gear ? tnks

Ichehoke:
Hello House,

I am having a load of issues with my 2001 C-class Mercedes Benz

1.There is ATF mixture with water inside the radiator reservoir

2.The car sometime fail to engage gear(either while you in motion or when you want to move after a stop)

3.Water pours out from the radiator reservoir when you use the air-conditioner(this happens only when you have stopped the car and ignition turn off)

@Siena...I use to have your mobile number and BBM far back 2012 and i use to call you personally for auto advise which was very useful.
can we renew this friendship again?.....you are such a genius!
my mail is ichehoke.ebie@gmail.com BBM PIN 2BD9B256

kingreign:


Hope you're prepared to buy a new radiator and gearbox and radiator cap?
What model C class is this? W202 or W203?

Ichehoke:


it is 203 (2001 Model)

kingreign:


What trim of W203?
Is it a c200 kompressor , c180, c240, c320 or?
Is it a 4Matic or rwd tranny, is it auto or manual?

Uchboggy:
Good day house,

I just bought a C320 2005 model from a friend. This is my first car ironically. I am so naive I have never used a car before talkless of Benz.

I would like to ask some questions.

1. Where can one check for oil level in the car or dash board.
2. Where can one topup coolant(not water) in the car? Or how often do I have to top up the water on average?
3.what other things do I need to know about maintenance?

auhanson:


Kingreign has almost said it all, since it is a rain issue.

Also i will add, from experiences with these cars, check to make sure that current passes to your plugs via ignition coil. Dash, horn etc may ignite but wouldn't start if this happens. Usually Merc are prone to this kind of faults The ignition current may not get to the pluggs. You could easily test these in several ways(i usually take current directly with a wire from the ignition fuse from the fuse box straight to the wires that leads to the ignition coils just to test for this,please note that this is not a permanent solution) before finally replaces the wires that leads from the positive terminal to that sport(AFTER HAVING MEASURED THE VOLTAGE ACROSS THAT WIRE WITH A MULTI METER AND DISCOVERED THAT IT IS NOT PASSING ANY CURRENT), but check first. Mechanics do usually check with spark plugs heads on any earth, precisely the car engine block(this is a bad habit)

Also you may be having a bridge or partial contact somewhere, either at the ignition wire or at the fuel pump wires. Physically check for such things too. Fuse box in these cars stays a life time,except in incidences of bridging and burnt

DukeNija:


Good day Sir,

Please i need a good painter in Lagos cos i want to repaint my car. Kindly recommend if you know any. Thanks in advance.

kingreign:

Contact Gazzuzz, 08023251039

kuntash:


Thanks Trac for ur contribution.

I have actually looked for this coolant, but couldn't find, I understand the colour is yellow. what I use currently is Green, (HOLTS), there's another colour RED made by ABRO, I ve looked for the MB coolant, No way.
From your comment, I will flush it out and use another whose properties meet that of Zerex

from what I read, they say this is MB approved coolant- see pics.

Question: where can one buy this in Nigeria? alternatively, what other products matches its properties?


Suffice it to say here that I did 300miles with 50 litres, both urban and highway, with 75% of usage was with A/C. before now it wasnt so, I still think there could be room for improvement. .
I am convinced many people do not get such mpg with their cars, whether MB or another of its kind.

I know 300miles on 50 litres of fuel is still poor, but considering the kinda fuel we get here etc, I think my effort in trying to get the best out of this 13+ yrs old car seem to be paying off, NOTE: this was before the thermostat change, so I am still expecting better mpg. lol

huh!! how I hate wastage ,

emyworld:
Please house, i need to you to give me feedback on the C class below. I want to buy it. Please Siena and kuntash reply also. i need info on the fuel economy and engine.




Mercedes-Benz C230 Elegance Automatic 1998 Black: PP-HF-26 CREAM LEATHER INTERIOR
Chassis Number: WDB2020231F484942
Color: Metallic Black
Weight: 1335Kg
Model: 1998

Power: 110 kW / 150 HP
Emissions Sticker:4 (Green)
Fuel consumption combined: ca 9.4 l/100km
Fuel consumption (urban):ca 13.1 l/100km
Fuel consumption (extra-urban):ca 7.2 l/100km

Trac:


To be square with you, the vehicles are quite old and lots of bushes will have to be changed.

For the C, I'll suggest the very last year and avoid the supercharged variants.

For the CLK, why 1999? No matter how much you save, it is not a wise decision over the 2000 - 2002, that is in engineering, aethesitcs and extras.

Both models are prone to catastrophic rusts and I won't recommend them to you for this reason and its age. Itis an issue when the sheet metal of the body begins to rust and areas too that are concealed. It is another issue when structural and structural supporting members are rusting. This is cognitively unacceptable. The pre-2000 of the CLK/E left a lot to be desired and it is not a well-thought-out compromise to the refreshed models. A lot of parts and components were upgraded.

To avoid being too detailed and prevent this post from being lengthy, I'll refrain from the pre-refreshed version of the C Class. The 230 variant is the least problematic and the choice of many of all the normal series in that class. This is because of the blend of power and agility for the engine range. The 180 should not be considered. It is underpowered.

For the CLK, I can't tell you much about the lower displaced engines. The engine generation is newer and I never got acquainted with them (for they are not sold where I am). It is true I said the V6's should be avoided on any Mercedes. That is true but to a "new" extent. A 60 degrees V is now into production and from the Mercedes design information that I have on that engine, it has been built from ground-up with innovations and grounds that haven't been covered ever in motoring has been conquered. This debuts currently on the 2012 C Classes. Besides this newer engine from the oven, the other V6's should be avoided. They were not built but concluded upon as an after-thought. The extent also to which the conclusions were engineered to only puts the burden upon the consumer as time elapses. It is not a best buy both in cost and and logic. One of the archilles heels is the balance shaft ripping out of the engine because it barely cancels out the rocking motions. Mercedes engines cannot be rebuilt on this generation due to its design and this occasion was never factored in. This kind of repair will never be as it would have been without this failure. This leaves you with the V8. This is the engine designed in its real actuality. The v6 incarnate is nothing but sectioned-off V8. A v6 in its inherent nature is a defective engine. Imagine adding one notch to the defect. There is nothing economical between the v6 and v8. The difference between the two engines is 1 mile to a gallon. The performance you get over the v8 is overwhelming to the asthmatic v6.

There are repairs homologous to the normal series. They can be overwhelming. The nature of these cars are a bit "discriminating" (-- for lack of a better choice of words). When a major problem occurs (i some cases, minor), the ECU in some cases would limp the vehicle or shut it down till the problem is fixed before normal operation begins. There are some electrical issues that are quite expensive to repair/replace (e.g. instrument cluster, A/C, climate controls, pneumatic related issues etc) and they go bad.

Maintaining a Mercedes will cost some money. Owning one also cost money to upkeep. Buying a Mercedes and considering mileage on gas is not acceptable. It is a different thing when you are using too much power (fuel) with little to no performance. If you needed such feat, a Mustang would offer that to you gracefully for a fraction of the cost. 'having said so, this leads me to the other phase.

The electrical gremlins are not found in the AMG series. They aren't prone to rust either. They are hand-built and some of the control-systems and electricals are HWA parts (not MB). These engines and transmissions are rock-solids and I would recommend it to anyone that I feel like talking "merc-y" to. You might be considering gasoline efficiency. The engine and transmission is adaptable and learns your driving style and detunes itself to match your pattern. Keep in mind that this is a car with a split personality and it will display its naughty side without warning if tempted. As long as it is not provoked, it will always remain in docile behaviour. The number of repairs per time period are seriously lower than the normal series. AMG's can take abuses and they are still loyal to you. Normal wear and tear should be expected. To tell you how rugged AMG-tuned MB's are, you can race all day on a race track without any modification to the vehicle and still drive the car home on its brakes and tyres (provided the tyres are not wornout) and still be going to work on Monday morning. Under time-trial, the chassis/suspension is taken a serious beating and under undue stresses. If you aren't swayed by the cost of replacing the tyres and track cost, you can return the following week or a few times a year but service life will be compromised. You'll be bunkers to take a regular Merc over an AMG-tuned Merc if you had the understanding and opportuned.

If a Benz has been neglected, don't buy it. It is not worth it. It'll be expensive to put it in order. HWA parts are significantly expensive than the regular Merc parts but you rarely replace them. It's just as the traditional ownership of a Mercedes; expensive parts - but twice or x-times the regular interval period. I'm not saying it is problem free but areas that might pose some issues are the inherent Mercedes parts that were unchanged at the Afaltebach plant. With the C Class, the C43 (if you opt for the AMG route) would be your engine choice. It is the closest car to the Porshe-built 500E in driving dynamics and feel. I won't recommend a c36. For the CLK, the CLK55. Be very careful of funny AMG's sold. Some people go through great lengths to make their vehicles AMG. You should look out for these kinds of phoney vehicles. Since the AMG's of this era were handbuilt, the interior are of two natures. They are either black or two-toned black and light-beige white. If I can recall, they were either black or silver in colour. Open the engine and look for the engineers name on the engine (though some are orphaned but the AMG is unmistakened). A 430 AMG is not AMG-tuned and warrants no cost beyond what its due. Some Mercedes were assembled with AMG trinkets and that is where the fun stops. Within the range you have asked, AMG's are more rare than today's.

If you will be importing from the United States, some engine adjustments would have to be done (fuel timing). Do not listen to anyone that tells you otherwise. The engineers that designed the vehicle explicitly stated it in the owners manual that premium only and in situations were premium cannot be gotten, half tank of gas and no more than 3000rpm and less than full cargo capacity.

Avoid any MB with modified suspension or deduct the cost. You cannot improve a Mercedes. What you buy is what you get. If you can get a repair history, it's a plus. If you can't, have a mechanic inspect it.

Whatever your choice of flavour is, do not rush your purchase. It might take you months but it is better. If you find a well maintained early to mid-90's E Class (LH Jetronic/HFM), it's a good consideration. The normals series are excellent as well and better than the choices you originally asked for.

This is the best I can give to you in a nutshell. I believe it has been presented best considering age and possible maintenance possibilities.

All the best in your choice.





Edits:

I had written this before I realised that you stated from 1999 upwards. That's a bit harder for me because I am not really acquainted with the C Class (w203) and higher. The 2003 generation CLK class is not impressive and I would tell you to avoid them. The repairs are in excess and not the cheap kinds. I was told that 2007 - 2009 were pretty much worked out. I never ventured into the CLK's because I'm an E person and of recent, I developed a practical interest in coupes. I have my reserved comments about Mercedes these days.

REDDEVILS1:
Oga Trac pls I need your input. When u say that the 180 is underpowered, what do you mean. Cos I was looking to get one thanks

webhostbiz:
I am about to buy this car C180 Sport 1998 model, i need an advise. Thanks

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