AutoElectNG:
2007 Honda Civic IVTEC P1077

AutoElectNG:
2007 lexus rx350 P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over slow …

P0025 MEANS

P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
25 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:P0025: Camshaft Position “B” – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

olaboy1:
Reporting to class. I bought the car used from a lady at around 211,000km, and the only thing I could make out of this is that the lady had no interest and knowledge about car care as there are many pointers to this. Very low radiator coolant, wrong wiper blades, no wiper water, low battery water level etc

I have gone into the service booklet and Toyota recommended service intervals are
1. Half service every 15,000km or every year change oil and oil filter
2. Full service and security controls like brakes etc every 30,000km or every 2nd year

The last recorded service history from the service book are full service at 150,000 and half service at 165,000. Can't say if she has been servicing it using regular mechanics without any record.

The car is just 2 weeks old with me and I want to put it in a perfect working condition.
Only repair I did was trying to replace the downstream oxygen sensors and cleared the codes and the check engine light came back.
Yes I have drivability issue along with the MIL. The RPM is too high at idle (1500rpm when cold at idle and around 700rpm when engine is warmed up), gas consumption as a result of sluggish movement when you try to overtake, you press the throttle pedal down to the max and the car is not responding in speed accordingly. More like something is stuck in the car's throat, little seconds delay when you try to crank the engine to start (I mean the car doesn't start at once, you need to hold the ignition key at the start position for like 5 seconds whilst the engine spins fine with good compression, my other car starts in 2 seconds and finally the engine vibrates little at idling position. The car was diagnosed by qualified govt emission control center and the checks came back with the following:
1. MIL

2. Idling CO/HC too high


3. Increased idle value incorrect (guess they are referring to the rpm at idle)

OBD2 error codes identified
P0161-O2 sensor oxygen circuit low voltage (bank 2, sensor 2)
P0141-O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 2)
P0340-Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
OBD self test not performed (I'm not sure what they mean by self test)

***observation****. As I was typing the above information about the old condition of the car, my mechanic plugged his laptop to scan for DTC's and the DTC's have totally changed from the previous information. I am attaching the new DTC's.
My mechanic doesn't want to spend his time in trying to diagnose the root cause of all the sensors problems, and I asked him if he has a scanner that can give us an oscilloscopic data of what's going on with the sensors, he said he doesn't have and I should just go ahead and buy new sensors. Mechanics are only interested in changing parts.
Can a OBD2 wifi scanner for Apple iPad solve my problem, or do I need to find another mechanic that has a more professional scanner to help me trouble shoot this problem. My mechanic did not even bother to check for vacuum leaks or any mechanical or electrical faults that could throw out those error codes. I have seen several videos on sensor problems, and directly changing the sensors is not a wise economic decision to take. Of course I understand with the current mileage of the car, the sensors should be changed anyway as a form of periodic service, but I want to be 100% sure I don't have other issues to address that could be something as simple as intake manifold gasket.
So guys now I have A/F upstream and downstream sensors issues
Bank 1 sensor 1 error code P1135
Bank 2 sensor 1 error code P1155
Bank 1 sensor 2 no error code
Bank 2 sensor 2 error code P0161

AutoElectNG:
2001 HONDA CIVIC P0730

AutoElectNG:


After reviewing your case, it is clear that since it took longer than expected to resolve, we forgot the bolded otherwise we would have postponed the emission test.

Hope you have seen the instructions for resolving the bolded, please provide feedback when done!

Apparently apart from that there are no other problems in the emission test report!

olaboy1:


I like your analysis on solving high HC and CO at idle. I have decided to give the car a comprehensive servicing first, actually it's something I do when I buy a used car but for some reason I just took the words of the previous owner as golden...will never make that mistake next time.
As for the comprehensive service I bought all from Toyota company direct brand new to avoid incompatible after market parts or wrong part numbers.
I have changed air filter. Mine uses 17801-0D011, the car had LX 1286
I have changed spark plugs, and in the process I noticed one of the wire harnesses of plug no2 was sitting tightly under the plug cap of no3, so maybe the wire has been compromised or ripped off. I couldn't tell as the wires were secured by a a wrap and I didn't want to tear open the wrap to see the conditions of the wires inside....either way I am going to carry out thorough inspection of the plug wires.
FSM recommended just two plug numbers and what I found in the car was the right make of plug but different part number (NGK IFR6T11)
FSM says Denso SK20R11 or NGK IFR6A11

I am changing oil and oil filter, fuel filter, PCV valve because when I took out air filter box, the other extension was very oily inside which leaves me to believe that the PCV is not doing a good job of sucking off the oil or taking off the pressurized oil from the crankcase and recycling it through the right channel into the combustion chamber, but rather due to the pressure at the crankcase it is sending OIL back the same breather hose it should be getting AIR from which is the hose connected to the air filter box. And I think it's better to replace inexpensive parts for a car this mileage.
I will have my mechanic also take out the AGR/EGR valve for proper cleaning as this and PCV valve are known to cause high emissions and fail emission test.
Lastly I have also ordered for OEM thermostat and I will flush out all the engine coolant and replace with fresh anti freeze engine coolant with a new thermostat. I am doing this because the car had too little engine coolant before and I don't know if the engine coolant was ever changed, and when I drove around for like 25 mins monitoring my engine coolant temperature it was just showing 70* celcius and my FSM says it needs to be 80-95 when it's warmed. However once I'm parked and leave the engine running then it starts going up gradually up to 85, so I'm not satisfied that my engine coolant on motion is reading lower than specified and I believe 80km/h for 20mins should be enough to get the car properly warmed up.
Once I'm done with this service I will get back to you on STFT and LTFT. I did not change air filter, engine oil and oil filter before my emission test, and I did not drive it for 1hr before the test, the guy at the center drove it for like 35 minutes or so.
I don't think my MAF is bad because after cleaning it, the grams on my OBD live data changed immediately from 2.96grams to 3.65grams.

I know this analogy may sound funny but it's the truth. I have a Bosch coffee maker the one you use tablets for, and at some point it got clogged and no water would come out. I took out all the parts and cleaned off all the debris and it's working like brand new again.
So I'm thinking if this car hasn't worked properly and combusted fine due to oxygen sensor problems then most likely we may have carbon build up and getting out those carbons would make a big difference, but ironically when I pulled out the old plugs from the car, they had no carbon at all, more like the threaded parts little wet with fuel and not oil and just inactive. Isn't there a way to decarbonise a car completely without taking parts out.

From my OBD live data my timing advance is at 10 degrees and FSM says ignition timing of cylinder 1 should be between 5-15 degrees, so can we rule out ignition timing issue, but I don't know about timing chain (crankshaft and camshaft timing) or are they same thing.
I will also find a way to do the smoke test for vacuum leak, what do you recommend since I don't have any propane machine.
My STFT and LTFT for bank 1 are in the single digit of + or - 9, while my STFT and LTFT for bank 2 are in the double digits of + or - 14.
I am trying to find EGR system in the FSM PDF files. I need info on EGR vacuum solenoid, VSV and the modulator, just to be 100% sure my EGR system functions properly.

rebella:
Hi AutoElectNG, any feedback please

AutoElectNG:


Please your Honda Civic is for which market?

So I can determine which Factory Service Manual to follow in fixing your issue!

That is holding me back now! Plus of course time to spare from other commitments

J0hnTrevolt:
How one person go jus dominate a public thread beats me

rebella:
It's Japanese, thanks a lot, I really appreciate your help

olaboy1:
I believe my MAF sensor is partly or wholly responsible for the car's poor performance. Before first cleaning I had -21.9 in STFT, after first cleaning it came down to -8, second cleaning around -0.78 to -3.
The first time I cleaned it I didn't realize there was a second filament inside, I was too careful because of some videos I saw of a guy cleaning it with so much care. As a matter of fact I only sprayed it with cleaner and never scrub it. Second cleaning I sprayed the other newly discovered filament inside and STFT became better.

So I have seen a YouTube video on the proper way to clean it with disc brake cleaner, and I'm positive this cleaning would bring down both STFT and LTFT.


What exactly should I be concerned about from the following components
MAF sensor
MAP sensor
IAC
IAT
They all seem to be controlling air.

My question is if my STFT and LTFT are in the range of +/-3, does this mean my car is healthy and I will no longer experience any drivability issues and less gasoline consumption and finally pass the almighty emission test?

AutoElectNG:


Has any work been done on the fuel tank? Or around it? If yes, what work.

Has the rear passenger seat been taken off before?

Have you ever replaced the fuel pump on this vehicle?

AutoElectNG:


The codes have been explained.

The fix will be posted tomorrow.

Juggling several tasks and trying our best to please you as well!

J0hnTrevolt:

J0hnTrevolt:
This Olaboy1 is so so annoying on this thread. Psffff

olaboy1:
Hello, while you are waiting for the guru in the house to break down the DTCs for you, when you replaced your throttle body did it come with new throttle position sensor and IAC sensor. Have you checked the wire harnesses to those two sensors.