kingreign:


I gallant o. How your ends?

auhanson:


Anyways cost here is relative, c240 engine cost about 65k compared to yours.

This engine cost about 65k because they are naturally aspirated very rugged & dont give up and you have no reason to change them , they are the m112 engine in v6 and the m113 in v8, same engine found in ml, clk, g class and c240, c320.

You can buy after market dip stick you could always use if you don't want to go the electronic way from the dash.
But be careful that you or your mechanic does not pour tranny fluid into the engine bay like some does after having the dip stick. the dip stick will only be to check the oil level and after wards keep it somewhere save.

auhanson:


This engine doesn't have any issue but expensive to buy unlike the c240 and the c320, if you mean the c180 kompressor? though its much more economical than the c240 and c320 that carries 12 plugs and 6 coils, pwhereas it carries just 4 plugs.

You will certainly have a lot of mind blowing issues if you are careless and does not stick to the rules:
1.Dont swim water with it to avoid hydrolog because the kompressor hoes faces downwards and can suck water easily unlike the c240 and c320.

2.use the correct transmission fluid , mercedes benz fluid for lasting and durable transmission. It has a very strong tranny system. If you may use any other like the ATF dextronIII though not recommended, make sure you change it before 100000miles of usage, that's the hacks for poor guys.
else you are on your own.

3. Make sure too you use the recommended oil, common here is mobil 1 10w40 or any other 10 w40 for synthetic oil change but not 20w50 oils etc. if for any reason you may wish to use non synthetic oil, make sure is something in the range of SAE 40 like total classic SAE40 and flush it on or before 3000 miles or 3 month, which ever that comes first, that is another hack(Reason being that these modern oils have all the additives and minearals components needed to clean and maintain the engines if you stick to the recommended weight, not w50 pls. I don expect any support here because many don't know this. It is saver to do this for 3 months than to run mobil 1 for 1 year in an old car like this. I expect a lot of argument here but that does not change the fact) Note please that the timing is de factor.

4. make sure you use the right coolant for the sake of your engine and transmission because the coolant runs through the transmission as well to keep it cool . Anything above 0.3 volt when measured with a multimeter in your coolant bay positive and negative terminals dip inside the coolant there should not be used , because it kills the system over time. I strongly recommend for a good practice that you stick to the Mercedes Benz coolant and flush it after every 200000 miles , this may take like 7 yrs or there about depending on your driving habit. And MB coolant will read about 0.01v to 0.09v which is very good incase you buy fake.

5, use the recommended fluid for your cooling system too and you will really enjoy this car. .Thats is much i can remember

Also, if you can use platinum plugs, not necessary per say, though this could last you for 7 years. and clean your throttle body , MAF with MAF cleaner and your air filter regularly to keep up with the power as you may always be using our normal fuel(non premium fuel) so that you may continue enjoying your car without lose of power and other limitations that those who don't know experiences all the time. With these you will hardly be visiting the garages

Chelseafan1:
My engine is asking for 1qtz of engine oil. Is it advisable I buy one and just top up like dt on my own or do a complete oil change, last time I changed oil was early February with 5ltrs of Mobil 1 0w40 instead of 5.7ltrs

CC Diportivo, HeavenlyBang, GAZZUZZ, Radautoworks, Nurey, Nwanneni

Chelseafan1:
My engine is asking for 1qtz of engine oil. Is it advisable I buy one and just top up like dt on my own or do a complete oil change, last time I changed oil was early February with 5ltrs of Mobil 1 0w40 instead of 5.7ltrs

CC Diportivo, HeavenlyBang, GAZZUZZ, Radautoworks, Nurey, Nwanneni

auhanson:


To be frank, when it goes bad i will replace with exactly what is there whether from 'Belgium market oh' or brand new. I have not research into that yet as i am still enjoying it and have forgotten that it will get bad one day

HeavenlyBang:


You're already two months in. If you've driven any significant distance in that period, just do a complete oil change.

HeavenlyBang:


You're already two months in. If you've driven any significant distance in that period, just do a complete oil change.

Chelseafan1:


OK, car came with 107k miles, its on 111k miles as at last night.

What do you advise bro?

HeavenlyBang:


Ah, you've driven 4k miles already na. E don reach to change anyhow, especially since you're using a W40 oil. That isn't a naturally aspirated engine, bro, you have to be more careful with your servicing.

Chelseafan1:


I know bro, I'll try and do a change today hopefully. I've had it in mind sha.

Thanks a lot.

Chelseafan1:
HeavenlyBang, I went to Gazzuzz's workshop to get my oil today, baba was looking fresh and calm.

He was nice to me and straight forward.

auhanson:


I'm good too, Thanku

HeavenlyBang:


Hah, nice one. Man gets so much stick from unsavory individuals here when most who have met him in person think otherwise.

Did you tell him your NL moniker?

GAZZUZZ:


I see....

DreCharles:
Evening please.
The w203 I inspected turned out to be a converted one. It looks very neatly done that it could pass off as a LHD. Please are there any cons? The wipers and gear placement are as of LHDs. Please it's urgent

HeavenlyBang:


Hah, nice one. Man gets so much stick from unsavory individuals here when most who have met him in person think otherwise.

Did you tell him your NL moniker?

HeavenlyBang:


Hah, nice one. Man gets so much stick from unsavory individuals here when most who have met him in person think otherwise.

Did you tell him your NL moniker?

auhanson:


Honest opinion: if that steering pump issue has been there for sometimes, definitely its gona affect the steering rack too, you can confirm this by thoroughly inspecting the steering rack for any sign of leakage(the steering rack terminate into the two front tyeroid else if you just change the pump , you might still have stiffened steering then you know is time to change or fix the rack too, else you would be running in circle of always changing rack and steering pump till you are fed up (bad rack destroys the pump, likewise bad pump destroys the rack and vise versa) At that price believe me both of them are in for it . Working it is not expensive but you must do the two after your inspection of any leakage on the rack, so that you don't run into this circle of repair.

If you dont want to inspect it, you could also do a run up with the car at a higher speed , if you feel the steering shaking couple with too much play at the wheel, the steering rack is definitely bad, you may do well too to physically inspect the tyeroid too because both could have given in as well.

I bought a w203 c240 too , a very clean one in and out in the real sense of the word, but i was surprised at the extend of repairs i was subjected to if i had to keep it to my test at the factory level, cos i don't drive anything less in any of my cars. It's unfortunate that most Nigerians(99%) don't maintain cars, so expect the worst, and at that price you can close your eyes and fix them up, then you will never have any need for further repairs, as for these cars when you fix it once appropriately they last almost a century. You only need to make up your mind whether to buy it or not.

Meanwhile that's the picture of my changed rack. However, i changed the tyeroid ends as well.

shortgun:
I've not made any comments on this thread for long cos the hypocrisy here is out of this world.
People who don't know jack about Benz are forming experts in Benz matters.

Many of "The experts" we have here will ask you to use Toyota coolant for your Benz but will turn around and tell you to stick to OEM engine oil
Do they even know the right oil...today is 0w30, 2moro is 10w40.
I
My advice, consult your qualified mech b4 u ruin your car.

shortgun:
I've not made any comments on this thread for long cos the hypocrisy here is out of this world.
People who don't know jack about Benz are forming experts in Benz matters.

Many of "The experts" we have here will ask you to use Toyota coolant for your Benz but will turn around and tell you to stick to OEM engine oil
Do they even know the right oil...today is 0w30, 2moro is 10w40.
I
My advice, consult your qualified mech b4 u ruin your car.

thebigkendo:


Bia!! Take your time.. Anything Toyota is the best

HeavenlyBang:


If you're throwing shade, @ the individuals with your chest. These subs are unbecoming.

shortgun:

Throwing shades?
That will be childish.
I've been using Mobil XHP 20w50 on my C320 for 5 years now and I still travel on average of 170km/h.
Dem no born you well to overtake me with ur fake Mobil 1 .
Am even praying for the engine to kaput but engine no gree die.
Why will someone ask people to buy their groundnut oil Mobil 1? In the name of OEM oil.

HeavenlyBang:

And I'm sure your owners manual doesn't support it. Good luck with your car, do whatever works for you but don't try to convince people that it's the best.

HeavenlyBang:

And I'm sure your owners manual doesn't support it. Good luck with your car, do whatever works for you but don't try to convince people that it's the best.

shortgun:

Am not trying to convince any1 mate ...I know my the car like the back of my palm, why spend over 30k on servicing an engine that is not more than 50k in the market top down.
Doesn't make economic sense.
The worst is that one will still buy fake oil labelled as Mobil 1.
This what they won't tell u.
They will ask people to revert to Mobil 1 without putting into consideration history of the car. For Gods seek we don't have a freezing whether here.

Viscosity is notated with the common "XW-XX." The number preceding the "W" rates the oil's flow at 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8 degrees Celsius).
The "W" stands for winter, not weight as many people think.

The lower the number here, the less it thickens in the cold. So 5W-30 viscosity engine oil thickens less in the cold than a 10W-30, but more than a 0W-30. An engine in a colder climate, where motor oil tends to thicken because of lower temperatures, would benefit from 0W or 5W viscosity.

The second number after the "W" indicates the oil's viscosity measured at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius). This number represents the oil's resistance to thinning at high temperatures. For example, 10W-30 oil will thin out at higher temperatures faster than 10W-40 will.

HeavenlyBang:


Do whatever works for you. We didn't contribute money to buy the car for you after all.