ojeysky:


If you can push your budget to 500k and considering that you have future dream of powering your fridge and AC. I will suggest you put that into consideration:

1. 3Kva MPP solar hybrid inverter 3024 MSXE series - 220k
2. 4x 250w panels - 120k
3. 2 x 150ah batteries - 110k
Remaining 50k should get accessories depending on distance from CC.

All the best!

Can this carry a 2HP AC and how long will the AC, medium sized fridge and other appliances last in a day?

Mavor:
Can this carry a 2HP AC and how long will the AC, medium sized fridge and other appliances last in a day?

2hp should be 1.5kva. Check the panel of your ac for specification of your ac and post. Without that, anything given to you is guesswork

You may want to take a pause here and ask yourself what you really want? In a 500K budget install with max 2 units of 200Ah lead acid batteries contemplated - talk of using AC on the system should not even come up not to talk of a 2HP AC.

2HP is about 1.49Kw - this is the base load for the compressor, the actual power consumption may be much higher and other household appliances will still run as well.

Allowing the stretch assumption that a 3kva asian origin inverter will carry this load sustainably paired with a lead acid battery bank, your minimum battery size to run a 1.5kw load for 10 hours is ~16 units of 12v 200Ah batteries (get the batteries to 50% DoD)

For a budget system such as you contemplate, it is best to focus on your basic appliances - excluding fridge e.t.c and only add on stuff after you get a hang of the system and what is going on.

Topmost11:

2hp should be 1.5kva. Check the panel of your ac for specification of your ac and post. Without that, anything given to you is guesswork

Mavor:
Can this carry a 2HP AC and how long will the AC, medium sized fridge and other appliances last in a day?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You may want to take a pause here and ask yourself what you really want? In a 500K budget install with max 2 units of 200Ah lead acid batteries contemplated - talk of using AC on the system should not even come up not to talk of a 2HP AC.

2HP is about 1.49Kw - this is the base load for the compressor, the actual power consumption may be much higher and other household appliances will still run as well.

Allowing the stretch assumption that a 3kva asian origin inverter will carry this load sustainably paired with a lead acid battery bank, your minimum battery size to run a 1.5kw load for 10 hours is ~16 units of 12v 200Ah batteries (get the batteries to 50% DoD)

For a budget system such as you contemplate, it is best to focus on your basic appliances - excluding fridge e.t.c and only add on stuff after you get a hang of the system and what is going on.

Ok maybe it's best to remove AC. What of fridge? Also can you recommend a solid person who can do this work for me? Neat installation. Location is Lekki axis. I need a load inventory done first.

Mavor:
Can this carry a 2HP AC and how long will the AC, medium sized fridge and other appliances last in a day?

Only the inverter alone will carry AC, the panels and battery is too small for that. I have only suggested you get that so in future you can increase you panels and overhaul your batteries if you want to include 2HP AC in your load.

Again please don't try to put AC and fridge in this initial plan of yours unless you are ready to increase your budget to over 1m

Call us on 08066332919 for your Industrial Power Equipments

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You may want to take a pause here and ask yourself what you really want? In a 500K budget install with max 2 units of 200Ah lead acid batteries contemplated - talk of using AC on the system should not even come up not to talk of a 2HP AC.

2HP is about 1.49Kw - this is the base load for the compressor, the actual power consumption may be much higher and other household appliances will still run as well.

Allowing the stretch assumption that a 3kva asian origin inverter will carry this load sustainably paired with a lead acid battery bank, your minimum battery size to run a 1.5kw load for 10 hours is ~16 units of 12v 200Ah batteries (get the batteries to 50% DoD)

For a budget system such as you contemplate, it is best to focus on your basic appliances - excluding fridge e.t.c and only add on stuff after you get a hang of the system and what is going on.

Na so I advised o, forget ac and push to 500K. Have you gotten lesson on energy conservation? My SIL still use 60w bulb till today. I even bought and sent 5w bulbs but the bulbs were not fixed.

Victron Multiplus 24V 3KVA Inverter/Charger available for only N425k. Pls call/whatsapp 08118419901

This can conveniently power your loads including the AC. However, you will need a large number of batteries.
Leaving out the AC, the system can run on 4 units of 12V 200Ah batteries.

Mavor:
Can this carry a 2HP AC and how long will the AC, medium sized fridge and other appliances last in a day?

Mavor:
Ok maybe it's best to remove AC. What of fridge? Also can you recommend a solid person who can do this work for me? Neat installation. Location is Lekki axis. I need a load inventory done first.

The man you just quoted is a safe hand for you.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You may want to take a pause here and ask yourself what you really want? In a 500K budget install with max 2 units of 200Ah lead acid batteries contemplated - talk of using AC on the system should not even come up not to talk of a 2HP AC.

2HP is about 1.49Kw - this is the base load for the compressor, the actual power consumption may be much higher and other household appliances will still run as well.

Allowing the stretch assumption that a 3kva asian origin inverter will carry this load sustainably paired with a lead acid battery bank, your minimum battery size to run a 1.5kw load for 10 hours is ~16 units of 12v 200Ah batteries (get the batteries to 50% DoD)

For a budget system such as you contemplate, it is best to focus on your basic appliances - excluding fridge e.t.c and only add on stuff after you get a hang of the system and what is going on.

Can I have your contact details please? Preferably whatsapp

Trippledots:


The man you just quoted is a safe hand for you.

Totally supported

Finally completed my solar power project & it's serving me very well. I will be giving a total break down on the total amount I spent on this project. If I had followed the prices of sellers, I wouldn't have dreamt of owing a solar powered system

Trippledots:


Whats the watt hour of the battery pack?

So I was able to tear one of them apart. In contrast to the type I had before which was 4s12p 18650 config, this one is 3s16p config.
Written on the battery label is:
* Working voltage: 11.1v
* Capacity: 33.6ah
* Power: 373 watts.

Like the former 4s pack, the BMS in this supports 12v to 19v input meaning it will do fine on solar panels, but I can't tell if it supports up to 100 watts like the former. I guess the only way to find out is to try and I don't mind blowing off the included BMS since I have several more powerful BMSes lying around to replace it.

+ve and -ve output from the BMS goes into a DC-DC boost converter to produce outputs of 19v (for laptop) and 30v (for printer).

Now with a working voltage of 11.1v, the nominal voltage per cell will be 3.7volts. At full charge of 4.2v per cell gives 12.6v output. An 18650 bms battery over discharge protect feature kicks in at around 3v per cell (9v for the 3s config). Also going by the 33.6ah divided by 48 cells gives around 2,100 mah per cell, which isn't bad. That nominal voltage of 11.1v promises a lot of possibilities with diy since most 12v inverters range between 10v to 15.5v. I couldn't work with the former one I had because the cells were 4s meaning that at full charge, the output will be 16.8v which is way outside the overvoltage limit of 12v inverters.

Also the part I hated most when working with 18650s has been soldering leads on the cell terminals since I don't have an arc welder. But with these already connected with nickels in place, all it just takes is to get more of it, swap the in-built BMS with a more powerful one and you can have a powerful 12v lithium pack.

I'm excited and I look forward to working on this thing.

Don't miss it !

Topmost11:


I think you mean on grid and off grid. Charging without phcn is on grid while gen, solar wind etc is off grid basically. It needs a "bit" more explanation.

Off grid:
1. Panels are connected to your battery via controller to charge it when there is sunlight.
2. Generator charges your battery via inverter.

On grid:
Phcn charges your battery via inverter.

If you have an idea of what you are doing, an experienced local electrician can do the wiring for you.

I did some searches and got this for you;

Six 200watts panels(1200watts)=180000
Two 200ah battery (400ah)=180000
Luminous inverter 1.5kva/12v(hybrid)=76000
10mm cable/ metre=900( length depends on distance of your panels to controller.

That's why I said you should push to 500K. But if money is a constraint, I will suggest three panels and one battery. Though experts say we should always strive to buy batteries together.is if its two batteries buy at once not one now and the other later. I shall post my DIY shortly

Good point .. Remain blessed!

harizonal123:
Finally completed my solar power project & it's serving me very well. I will be giving a total break down on the total amount I spent on this project. If I had followed the prices of sellers, I wouldn't have dreamt of owing a solar powered system

I'm waiting for it.

Mavor:
Can I have your contact details please? Preferably whatsapp

Mr NiyiOmoIyunade can I please get a response. Thanks.

Apologies please, I have been in transit;

My digits - 0808 11 4444 2

Mavor:


Mr NiyiOmoIyunade can I please get a response. Thanks.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Apologies please, I have been in transit;

My digits - 0808 11 4444 2

Thanks.

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Finally got a workaround to my solar issue, divided the 260w 36v to 260w 18v making the output around 17amps. Will get an mppt controller in the future

Good day house. House, my 60a powermr mppt controller arrived today. I shall fix it tomorrow.
But I have a challenge. The panel and battery ports has two +be and two -ve ports. How do I connect since wires from my panels and batteries are not two but one ie one +ve and one -be wires. I understand the pv, b and ou. Just how do i make one wire nter two slots. Those tjat are using this type of cc could also help.

I also read that I should fix circuit breakers between panel and cc and between cc and battery. I have read this before and has pencilled down this but has not bought due to funds. What is the implication of installing the cc now and incorporating the breakers at a later date. Pls keep in mind I will fix all by DIY so keep response easy to understand. Drawing will be appreciated too. Thanks.

Topmost11:
Good day house. House, my 60a powermr mppt controller arrived today. I shall fix it tomorrow.
But I have a challenge. The panel and battery ports has two +be and two -ve ports. How do I connect since wires from my panels and batteries are not two but one ie one +ve and one -be wires. I understand the pv, b and ou. Just how do i make one wire nter two slots. Those tjat are using this type of cc could also help.

I also read that I should fix circuit breakers between panel and cc and between cc and battery. I have read this before and has pencilled down this but has not bought due to funds. What is the implication of installing the cc now and incorporating the breakers at a later date. Pls keep in mind I will fix all by DIY so keep response easy to understand. Drawing will be appreciated too. Thanks.

You can use one slot per terminal if that's what your power draw can handle. The extra connectors are to take care of max power draw from the cc.

Budget method of handling high power from the charge controller.

The terminals for load? What happens to those?

My current pwm cc has 3 terminals viz: PV, battery and load which I don't use since load is connected via inverter to battery.

This new mppt cc also has 3 terminals: pv, battery and load.

What do I connect to the load of the new cc? Do I ignore as before or connect load to it. I think the terminal is for direct DC loads but I need clarification/confirmation.
Pix attached is the result of my tinkering at about 6.45 this morning but I have reverted to the pwm cc pending response to my queries. It started with 12.7v 0a and moved to 15.1v 0a and was indicating panel is charging before I disconnected it. Thanks.

Topmost11:
My current pwm cc has 3 terminals viz: PV, battery and load which I don't use since load is connected via inverter to battery.

This new mppt cc also has 3 terminals: pv, battery and load.

What do I connect to the load of the new cc? Do I ignore as before or connect load to it. I think the terminal is for direct DC loads but I need clarification/confirmation.
Pix attached is the result of my tinkering at about 6.45 this morning but I have reverted to the pwm cc pending response to my queries. It started with 12.7v 0a and moved to 15.1v 0a and was indicating panel is charging before I disconnected it. Thanks.

The load connection is just for light like street light, which I used mine as under voltage cutoff.
Your system is 12volt system that is why it's indicated 15.1 volt for over voltage cutoff but I will advise you to check your battery maximum charging voltage and reset the 15.1v, that 12.7v should not boarder you because you are not using the load terminals it is for under voltage reconnection.

Topmost11:
Good day house. House, my 60a powermr mppt controller arrived today. I shall fix it tomorrow.
But I have a challenge. The panel and battery ports has two +be and two -ve ports. How do I connect since wires from my panels and batteries are not two but one ie one +ve and one -be wires. I understand the pv, b and ou. Just how do i make one wire nter two slots. Those tjat are using this type of cc could also help.

I also read that I should fix circuit breakers between panel and cc and between cc and battery. I have read this before and has pencilled down this but has not bought due to funds. What is the implication of installing the cc now and incorporating the breakers at a later date. Pls keep in mind I will fix all by DIY so keep response easy to understand. Drawing will be appreciated too. Thanks.

I advise you study the manual, because with d look of d cc as if it allow d feedn in of 2 separate pv/batr setup. if not just use 1set of -+ gate for pv/batr. I may be wrong o because I have not use this cc b4. so pls study d manual and tell us u hear

Topmost11:
My current pwm cc has 3 terminals viz: PV, battery and load which I don't use since load is connected via inverter to battery.

This new mppt cc also has 3 terminals: pv, battery and load.

What do I connect to the load of the new cc? Do I ignore as before or connect load to it. I think the terminal is for direct DC loads but I need clarification/confirmation.
Pix attached is the result of my tinkering at about 6.45 this morning but I have reverted to the pwm cc pending response to my queries. It started with 12.7v 0a and moved to 15.1v 0a and was indicating panel is charging before I disconnected it. Thanks.

Leave load terminals. It's for small DC load
Split wires in twos like Y shape to connect to double terminals. Problem solved.
Contact me on email so u wont over charge your batteries

the reason you have two terminals is because the single terminals are small and cannot accommodate a wire that is to carry 60amp current, so they split it into two terminals to accommodate two thin wires that will equal the current gauge of a single fat wire.

the two positive terminals have continuity, same with the negative terminals.

Topmost11:
Good day house. House, my 60a powermr mppt controller arrived today. I shall fix it tomorrow.
But I have a challenge. The panel and battery ports has two +be and two -ve ports. How do I connect since wires from my panels and batteries are not two but one ie one +ve and one -be wires. I understand the pv, b and ou. Just how do i make one wire nter two slots. Those tjat are using this type of cc could also help.

I also read that I should fix circuit breakers between panel and cc and between cc and battery. I have read this before and has pencilled down this but has not bought due to funds. What is the implication of installing the cc now and incorporating the breakers at a later date. Pls keep in mind I will fix all by DIY so keep response easy to understand. Drawing will be appreciated too. Thanks.

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I would like to propose an optimized use for solar installations especially for personal home use. This idea is not entirely new, and most solar packages offer these solutions in some ways. Its all about going the DC way. That's the same reason mtn solar gives 2 DC light, Azuri gives about 4 plus a dc tv. Using dc appliances improves solar power efficiency incredibly. Hence there is no need for lots of power adapters we all have around the house as these adapters greatly decrease the battery and inverter efficiencies.
Hence to get optimum use of battery life, my advice is to run purely on DC gadgets as they are becoming quite popular in the market currently. Your bulbs, security lights, TV, fan, even refrigerator can run all on DC.
I am currently off-grid and run all my lights, fan,tv, phone charging on DC.