₦airaland Forum

earthrealm:
errrm, i think the first advice is: placing 10kw load on a 48v 400ah bank is a big NO NO.
Using C/10 rule, maz load you should place on the bank is about 2kw. for lead acid battery, even LIPO4 bank may not be able to handle such a huge instantenous load.

even if you counter and say the panel will handle the load, you and i know that panel harvest isnt steady, cos you need to be assured of steady 8kw minimum from the panels to surport the bank to carry the load at all times

Which one is C/10 rule? Are you referring to battery C value?

Anybody using a samsung inverter fridge?
thinking of going against my better judgement, and going for a samsung frost free inverter fridge, seems all manufacturers except haier thermoccol have gone the route of frost free.

nigeria with epileptic power supply isnt so ideal for frost free fridges, however with the 30w consumption of an LG inverter by JUO, i think my modest setup can handle the fridge running 24/7.

LG burnt me badly in the freezer i bought 2 years ago, very poor chilling and doesnt retain cold, 4 to 6hrs after power off, freezer chamber is almost lukewarm!
thus i decided not to go near any LG fridge or freezer again

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earthrealm:
Anybody using a samsung inverter fridge?
thinking of going against my better judgement, and going for a samsung frost free inverter fridge, seems all manufacturers except haier thermoccol have gone the route of frost free.

nigeria with epileptic power supply isnt so ideal for frost free fridges, however with the 30w consumption of an LG inverter by JUO, i think my modest setup can handle the fridge running 24/7.

LG burnt me badly in the freezer i bought 2 years ago, very poor chilling and doesnt retain cold, 4 to 6hrs after power off, freezer chamber is almost lukewarm!
thus i decided not to go near any LG fridge or freezer again

Why not go for the particular lg inverter fridge since there is testimony about it's performance already.

How much does a 24/36v dc sumo cost?

Hey!

It didn't cross my mind one bit, as i was of the idea that if he could supplement the PC over battery.

But your point is totally valid.
Thanks for the tips.

earthrealm:
errrm, i think the first advice is: placing 10kw load on a 48v 400ah bank is a big NO NO.
Using C/10 rule, maz load you should place on the bank is about 2kw. for lead acid battery, even LIPO4 bank may not be able to handle such a huge instantenous load.

even if you counter and say the panel will handle the load, you and i know that panel harvest isnt steady, cos you need to be assured of steady 8kw minimum from the panels to surport the bank to carry the load at all times

earthrealm:
Anybody using a samsung inverter fridge?
thinking of going against my better judgement, and going for a samsung frost free inverter fridge, seems all manufacturers except haier thermoccol have gone the route of frost free.

nigeria with epileptic power supply isnt so ideal for frost free fridges, however with the 30w consumption of an LG inverter by JUO, i think my modest setup can handle the fridge running 24/7.

LG burnt me badly in the freezer i bought 2 years ago, very poor chilling and doesnt retain cold, 4 to 6hrs after power off, freezer chamber is almost lukewarm!
thus i decided not to go near any LG fridge or freezer again

i use Samsung inverter fridge/ freezer. annual energy consumption 285kwh. keeps food in the freezer compartment blocked for atleast 24hrs..if you have enough funds , then go for this particular LG fridge/bottom mount freezer. model no 419SLQZ. 285kwh. food remain blocked for over 2days when power fails
sold for around 290k

earthrealm:
for a 24v system, you are better off connecting the panels in series. 300w is just about right for 1 unit 12v 200ah battery, however 450w would be excellent, takes care of losses, and poor solar days, wrong inclination etc...as depending on your setup, you may be seeing only 200w to 240w max instantenous harvest..and not the 300w installed

Pls can a 600W solarpanel with 2 200ah batteries conveniently power a fridge of 100W during a sunny day?

This is based on d fact that d panels don't necessarily need to charge the batteries because the Low utility voltage charges my batteries to full capacity but struggles to power my fridge. Thanks

@anjilgreat.
what is the size of your inverter?
so the low utility voltage can charge your battery, through the inverter...but cant power your fridge?.
a good stabilizer maybe your best option.
is the nepa voltage upto 140v?, you must have a good inverter, for it to charge at low voltage, my inverter doesnt charge if voltage is below 170v.

back to your question, 600w panel can power a 100w fridge well during the day, even if you have it hooked to a single 12v 200ah battery, heck even to a 100ah battery

Malevonent:
@anjilgreat.
what is the size of your inverter?
so the low utility voltage can charge your battery, through the inverter...but cant power your fridge?.
a good stabilizer maybe your best option.
is the nepa voltage upto 140v?, you must have a good inverter, for it to charge at low voltage, my inverter doesnt charge if voltage is below 170v.

back to your question, 600w panel can power a 100w fridge well during the day, even if you have it hooked to a single 12v 200ah battery, heck even to a 100ah battery

I connect the inverter to a qlink stabilizer which charges it but this same stabilizer doesn't conveniently power my fridge.

The NEPA voltage that gives me challenge is when it is Less than 100V. Above 100V powers the fridge seamlessly with my stabilizer.


It's a 3KVA 24V ipowerplus inverter that has an inbuilt charge controller which can only take a maximum of 600W solar panel. Thanks

Malevonent:
@anjilgreat.
what is the size of your inverter?
so the low utility voltage can charge your battery, through the inverter...but cant power your fridge?.
a good stabilizer maybe your best option.
is the nepa voltage upto 140v?, you must have a good inverter, for it to charge at low voltage, my inverter doesnt charge if voltage is below 170v.

back to your question, 600w panel can power a 100w fridge well during the day, even if you have it hooked to a single 12v 200ah battery, heck even to a 100ah battery

Thanks for this. I have always wanted to buy a 600W paper since last year due to my available charge controller because of my fridge, but my inverter installer have always insisted that it's more convenient and safer for me to start with a 1200W panel.

Thanks alot for this Information because I just got tired of always Putting on my generator in times of Low voltage despite the fact that my inverter batteries will still be okay to power other things in the house and the fridge is not connected to it so as not to reduce the lifespan of the batteries.

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anjilgreat:
I connect the inverter to a qlink stabilizer which charges it but this same stabilizer doesn't conveniently power my fridge.

The NEPA voltage that gives me challenge is when it is Less than 100V. Above 100V powers the fridge seamlessly with my stabilizer.


It's a 3KVA 24V ipowerplus inverter that has an inbuilt charge controller which can only take a maximum of 600W solar panel. Thanks

if 100v is the lowest voltage , seen in your area. i would recommend you buy a central stabilizer, say 10kva, andedunamis , it is rated to pick from 80v, though mine worked ok, several times phcn gave us 70v, its about 110k for the servo type..saves you the stress of loading your fridge on your inverter..and at the same time, protects the whole house from over voltage and undervoltage.
search on jumia and konga
i assume you have 2 x 200ah 12v batteries

Malevonent:
if 100v is the lowest voltage , seen in your area. i would recommend you buy a central stabilizer, say 10kva, andedunamis , it is rated to pick from 80v, though mine worked ok, several times phcn gave us 70v, its about 110k for the servo type..saves you the stress of loading your fridge on your inverter..and at the same time, protects the whole house from over voltage and undervoltage.
search on jumia and konga
i assume you have 2 x 200ah 12v batteries

Yes my batteries are as the bolded .

The challenge is that the voltage sometimes goes as Low as 60V because of overloading of the transformer for which the 2000VA QASA stabilizer connected to the fridge does not Pick whenever it's less than abt 90V.

The idea of a central stabilizer will be a good one, I'll discuss with my husband to get his opinion on buying it but I doubt if he'll agree because the low voltage made us to buy as much as Seven(7) stabilizers based on recommendations - 3unitsof 5000VA ( Qlink, connected to inverter; Century , used for pumping Water whenever the voltage is reasonable and Haier thermocool, for window unit A/C that we barely use ) and 4 units of 2000VA stabilizers ( 2 haier thermocool for 2 units of LG gencool split unit ; 1 QASA, used for my fridge and the binatone product still chilling inside the carton because it's very selective when it comes to low voltage).

If he doesn't agree on the idea of the central stabilizer, we'll just get the 600W panels as ealier recommended by you for the sake of my fridge. I really appreciate your assistance, thanks alot.

earthrealm:
Anybody using a samsung inverter fridge?
thinking of going against my better judgement, and going for a samsung frost free inverter fridge, seems all manufacturers except haier thermoccol have gone the route of frost free.

nigeria with epileptic power supply isnt so ideal for frost free fridges, however with the 30w consumption of an LG inverter by JUO, i think my modest setup can handle the fridge running 24/7.

LG burnt me badly in the freezer i bought 2 years ago, very poor chilling and doesnt retain cold, 4 to 6hrs after power off, freezer chamber is almost lukewarm!
thus i decided not to go near any LG fridge or freezer again

Except you are guaranteed regular power supply, please avoid frost free freezers. They are not designed for our epileptic power supply.You can get conventional freezer with low power consumption. Try Scanfrost.I have been using their freezer since 2011.Never done any repair till day.Retains frost for more than 24hours!!

anjilgreat:
Yes my batteries are as the bolded .

The challenge is that the voltage sometimes goes as Low as 60V because of overloading of the transformer for which the 2000VA QASA stabilizer connected to the fridge does not Pick whenever it's less than abt 90V.

The idea of a central stabilizer will be a good one, I'll discuss with my husband to get his opinion on buying it but I doubt if he'll agree because the low voltage made us to buy as much as Seven(7) stabilizers based on recommendations - 3unitsof 5000VA ( Qlink, connected to inverter; Century , used for pumping Water whenever the voltage is reasonable and Haier thermocool, for window unit A/C that we barely use ) and 4 units of 2000VA stabilizers ( 2 haier thermocool for 2 units of LG gencool split unit ; 1 QASA, used for my fridge and the binatone product still chilling inside the carton because it's very selective when it comes to low voltage).

If he doesn't agree on the idea of the central stabilizer, we'll just get the 600W panels as ealier recommended by you for the sake of my fridge. I really appreciate your assistance, thanks alot.

ok, probably too late for central stabilizer, since you have bought so many smaller units, if you guys were well informed, a central stabilizer is the best.when next you want to buy stabilizer, you should check the input voltage range, the lower the better, old stabilizers had 120v and 140v as lowest input voltage, i have heard of a 60v input voltge stab, but am yet to see it with my eyes.
uwc
remeber, you need to disconnecet the fridge from the stabilizer before connecting it to the inverter

Malevonent:
ok, probably too late for central stabilizer, since you have bought so many smaller units, if you guys were well informed, a central stabilizer is the best.when next you want to buy stabilizer, you should check the input voltage range, the lower the better, old stabilizers had 120v and 140v as lowest input voltage, i have heard of a 60v input voltge stab, but am yet to see it with my eyes.
uwc
remeber, you need to disconnecet the fridge from the stabilizer before connecting it to the inverter

Thank you very much.

Saipro:
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Still searching ...

earthrealm:
nigeria with epileptic power supply isnt so ideal for frost free fridges, however with the 30w consumption of an LG inverter by JUO, i think my modest setup can handle the fridge running 24/7.

I wonder if there is inverter chest freezer too. It'll be nice.

earthrealm:
LG burnt me badly in the freezer i bought 2 years ago, very poor chilling and doesnt retain cold, 4 to 6hrs after power off, freezer chamber is almost lukewarm!
thus i decided not to go near any LG fridge or freezer again

Haier Thermocool has good offerings in their recent chest freezers. They boast keeping foods frozen for up to 72 hrs after power failure. They have fairly good insulation and I've test driven 12hrs power-off with good temperature retention results, as long as the foods are frozen before power outage. Of course, freezer isn't frost-free type.

omotoda:
Except you are guaranteed regular power supply, please avoid frost free freezers. They are not designed for our epileptic power supply.You can get conventional freezer with low power consumption. Try Scanfrost.I have been using their freezer since 2011.Never done any repair till day.Retains frost for more than 24hours!!

What's the capacity of the Scanfrost freezer and what's the energy consumption?

ceaser:
I wonder if there is inverter chest freezer too. It'll be nice.



Haier Thermocool has good offerings in their recent chest freezers. They boast keeping foods frozen for up to 72 hrs after power failure. They have fairly good insulation and I've test driven 12hrs power-off with good temperature retention results, as long as the foods are frozen before power outage.

My thermocool freezer was quite good in retaining item's temperature for a long period and also power saving(between 80 and 150) not until it developed a fault, and freezer kazeems engineer layed their hands on it, now it does minimum of 200w. My guess is that the engineer did direct connection which puts the freezer in turbo mode non-stop.

Malevonent:
if 100v is the lowest voltage , seen in your area. i would recommend you buy a central stabilizer, say 10kva, andedunamis , it is rated to pick from 80v, though mine worked ok, several times phcn gave us 70v, its about 110k for the servo type..saves you the stress of loading your fridge on your inverter..and at the same time, protects the whole house from over voltage and undervoltage.
search on jumia and konga
i assume you have 2 x 200ah 12v batteries

I use the 10kva and the stuff serves well, now that I have grid occasionally which is usually not more than 150v and can be as low as 50v but anything from 80v the stabilizer works though at lower capacity. When it's between 80v to 120v just assume it's a 3kva stab 140 to 170v 5kva, full max film 180v, and don't load it up beyond that limit else it breaks

ceaser:
What's the capacity of the Scanfrost freezer and what's the energy consumption?

About 126w running power.

Malevonent:
ok, probably too late for central stabilizer, since you have bought so many smaller units, if you guys were well informed, a central stabilizer is the best.when next you want to buy stabilizer, you should check the input voltage range, the lower the better, old stabilizers had 120v and 140v as lowest input voltage, i have heard of a 60v input voltge stab, but am yet to see it with my eyes.
uwc
remeber, you need to disconnecet the fridge from the stabilizer before connecting it to the inverter

At bolded. Why? A lady once told me it is not good using stab with generator. That it will spoil the stab bla bla bla. We argued about it and i told her there was nothing of such since I have been using mine with stab. Hearing this again brought it back. Why disconnect before use, pls educate me. Thanks

olaolu11:
At bolded. Why? A lady once told me it is not good using stab with generator. That it will spoil the stab bla bla bla. We argued about it and i told her there was nothing of such since I have been using mine with stab. Hearing this again brought it back. Why disconnect before use, pls educate me. Thanks

I'll try to answer the question here. There are two reasons for that answer.

1) A stabilizer is deemed an added "unnecessary" inductive load to the inverter.

2) A stabilizer is "unnecessary" as the voltage out of a generator is already stable, unless the generator's AVR is bad. In that case you'll have the replace the generator's AVR.

I hope this clears some of that confusion.

ojeysky:
My thermocool freezer was quite good in retaining item's temperature for a long period and also power saving(between 80 and 150) not until it developed a fault, and freezer kazeems engineer layed their hands on it, now it does minimum of 200w. My guess is that the engineer did direct connection which puts the freezer in turbo mode non-stop.

You better sell it and buy a new one. The one I had until about two years ago was also basterdized by "engineer". Something rated for 140 watts now stays on 250 watts. Worse still, it doesn't cool as fast nor hold foods frozen as long. I retired the thing straight. Looking to sell it, it dey one corner as I dey talk.

Sharp sharp I got a replacement 203 Litres that does 114 watts.

Talking about appliances getting faulty, I think I have been worry free for the past four years cos using solar has been able to keep appliances out of harm's way. No stabilizer headache (four of them are lying useless at the moment). The output from inverters are clean with no surges of any kind. All damages to appliances that I've experienced before have all been from NEPA surges and generator surges (especially that "I better pass" when I used it as a stop gap)

Bumped into this online.

omotoda:
About 126w running power.

Okay. Just looking for something much lower.

I wish inverter deep freezers also exist. It'll be a sweet something.