₦airaland Forum

ojeysky:
Okay I think you didn't get the point:

280v 8A on a 450v CC
130v 24A on a 150v CC

Where is the risk more than the other?

The 280v is well within the 450v capacity of the CC so you got no issues.

As for safer, both of them go shock you. Common 8A on your panels if e leak you go feel am for body. Just continue to follow the rule of higher bolts from panel to CC & you got no issues.

adrusa:
I disagree Sir. The higher voltage CC are for higher nominal voltage systems. There are inverters with nominal voltages of 90v and 180v. These are the ones for which high voltage CC are made and they are expensive because of the electronics needed to handle that high voltage, not so that someone with 12v system can run PV voltage of 250v.

And as to my friend, yes it is current, and VOLTAGE. Voltage drives high current. The higher the voltage, the higher the current it is able to drive through any system when resistance is constant. V=IR. So, for a human being or anything at all, 100V is more dangerous than 10V. Yes, it is the current that kills, but it is the high voltage that drives the current.

Finally, I have once been told that there is an MPPT sweet spot for your panel voltage vs your system voltage, I really can not lay my hands on the details now. But I remember that while high voltage may reduce your installation cost, two much of a difference between your PV Voltage and your battery voltage put extra stress on the conversion electronics in your charge controller. Don't forget that an MPPT CC is basically a DC-DC converter and the higher the difference between the voltages the higher the work needed to be done by the converter and the greater the loss and the likelihood to have a fault.

But again, you must maintain a balance between safety and cost. Unless my inverter system requires it, I will not do high voltage.

Hi Adrusa,

Just to input my little opinion. First of all, I understand your point, especially regards to the safety aspect. But then, that's why you have to understand what you're doing before venturing into it.

However, permit me to disagree with the bolded. CCs with high PV input voltage are NOT designed for higher nominal voltage systems, as you stipulated.
Victron has a 250V/100A CC but yet it's for a 12-48V systems Only. Same as Magnum PT-100 that has its maximum Input voltage as 240V, yet it's only for 12/24/48V systems... These CCs, aforementioned, are never designed to be used in a 96V system talk less of 120V or 180V systems... They're strictly for 12V, 24V, 48V system voltages

And yes, all CCs has an efficiency curve that tells you at what PV array input voltage (Vmp and not Voc) the CC would give you the best conversion.
Most MPPTs have their best conversion efficiency when the PV array Vmp is around twice the system nominal voltage. At 48V system voltage, most CCs converts best when PV array Vmp is around 70-95V. Some still functions best when the PV array Vmp is trice the system voltage

If you're Installing Magnum PT-100 for a 48V system, your PV array Vmp should be kept above 100V. Your system would experience serious power loss when the PV array Vmp goes down to around 78V. Yet, that 78V PV array Vmp is the best for some MPPT CCs @48V system voltage ... That is why it's very important to read manuals that comes with these devices.

Bros, you have to work with the manual. If the device is designed to function at a certain high voltage, who are you to install otherwise, unless you don't want the best out of that CC. You don't have to be concerned about overworking the electronics; you shouldn't think for them and you shouldn't help them. As long as you're within the acceptable range (without actually hitting the limits), those components are very happy.

Finally, to work around these voltages one has to be very careful. Even under DIY, you must be safety conscious; otherwise, get a pro. A lot has already been said regards that.

Cheers

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adrusa:
It will be. Current is "pay as you go" or taken as required. You can only talk about the maximum current your system is capable of giving. No one is sure what it will give under every conditions. Even if your system can do 100A, you need adequate voltage to drive it through. Look at a car battery. It is only 12v and you can complete the circuit, i.e. touch both the negative and the positive simultaneously without any shock. Yet that battery pushes out between 100-200A when you are using it to start your car.

Voltage is always there. Current normally do not flow until a circuit is completed. And how much current will flow is dependent on what demand is being made by the electronics. But in the case of electrocution, voltage is the most important. What current will flow is dependent on the resistance of the body and the contacts the body is making with the groud. A good insulating rubber shoe will reduce the current passing through for example. Sweat or otherwise wet body and wet ground will reduce the resistance and increase the current flow.

So, in electrocution, current is of little importance, it is the voltage that is crucial. Yes, it is the current that will kill, but without adequate voltage, there won't be enough current to cause danger. That is why when 11,000V from High Tension poles falls on anything, it drives enough current through to incinerate whatever is its path. 220V can never do that. 220V will most likely send the heart into such a very rapid, irregular beating (tachycardia) that blood circulation becomes ineffective, it rarely causes burns.

This una new talk about electrocution is beginning to make my heart go giz giz already. And here I am planning to jump 24v system to go 48v as I plan to connect more appliances.

However it seems you have missed the dimeanatjon between DC and AC in terms of point of potential electrocution. A voltage of 300 from DC source will not electrocute if it touches the naked hands, but 250v from an AC source will not be so forgiving. This is because of the alternating nature which increases its potential to cause cardiac arrhythmias culminating in cardiac arrest. Is the same that's responsible for the burns.

A tazer can give a momentary voltage as high as 2500v, but it does not usually kill because it's not from an AC source. It only causes a jolt which is limited to the level of activity at the peripheral muscles. Although that's not to say it isn't a potential danger in those with preexisting cardiac conditions or in those with cardiac pacemakers.

Electroshock therapy to the head (applied in mental health) delivers high voltage to the head that the px is actually physically jolted right from the head. It is a very discomforting therapy even for me as an observer or prescriber, but it doesn't kill 'em.

I think the potential for fire from sparks when shorted is fairly the same with the two sources. So I think we speak of three potential hazards depending on scenarios of AC or DC - the shock/jolt, the burns and the spark which may cause fire.

kiekie1:
HURRY! DISCOUNTED PRICES!!

-SMK 40a mppt available ... 65k
-Felicity 24v 3.75kwh lithium batteries ... 355k
-Felicity 48v 7.5kwh lithium batteries ..... 640k

SMK mppt : Lcd display, user settings feature & lithium compatible.

Datasheet are also available on request !


Contact,
Smartcell global services
Call:: 081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

@Bolded. Is that not the same Felicity 24v/200ah?

Is this declared capacity the real cap, abi kiekie?

ceaser:
This una new talk about electrocution is beginning to make my heart go giz giz already. And here I am planning to jump 24v system to go 48v as I plan to connect more appliances.

However it seems you have missed the dimeanatjon between DC and AC in terms of point of potential electrocution. A voltage of 300 from DC source will not electrocute if it touches the naked hands, but 250v from an AC source will not be so forgiving. This is because of the alternating nature which increases its potential to cause cardiac arrhythmias culminating in cardiac arrest. Is the same that's responsible for the burns.

A tazer can give a momentary voltage as high as 2500v, but it does not usually kill because it's not from an AC source. It only causes a jolt which is limited to the level of activity at the peripheral muscles. Although that's not to say it isn't a potential danger in those with preexisting cardiac conditions or in those with cardiac pacemakers.

Electroshock therapy to the head (applied in mental health) delivers high voltage to the head that the px is actually physically jolted right from the head. It is a very discomforting therapy even for me as an observer or prescriber, but it doesn't kill 'em.

I think the potential for fire from sparks when shorted is fairly the same with the two sources. So I think we speak of three potential hazards depending on scenarios of AC or DC - the shock/jolt, the burns and the spark which may cause fire.

There's actually nothing to be afraid of. It's all about working safe!

But, biko, 300VDC can send you to your ancestors ooo.. Lolz.

What you should understand is that you can only get a shock or electrocuted when there's a complete path, or a complete circuit. As a matter of fact, 11,000V cannot also electrocute you. But then, it depends on the scenario.
If you're holding on to only the "live" of a 250V or 11KV AC source, you won't get shock, as long as you're not having any form of contact with ground. Wear a properly insulated boot or stand on a dry wooden ladder and touch only the "live" of a 500V AC source, and nothing would happen. But if you're standing barefoot on the ground, you'll likely meet your ancestors. If, while Insulated from the ground, you have contact with both live and neutral, sorry ooo...

If, while on the ladder, you hold the +ve and - ve of a PV string of upto even 100V DC, you will get shock. If both ends are bare and touching the roof and you have a contact with the roof, there would be spark and of course, with shock.

This is where the safety aspect comes in. Even if your PV array voltage is going to be up to 500VDC, make sure that both ends of the array or any string are never bare at the same time.

Always connect your PV array cable to the DC isolation breaker first and ensure the breaker is Off. Connecting the PV array cable to the PV array should be last.

Always think safety and you'll be fine!

ceaser:
@Bolded. Is that not the same Felicity 24v/200ah?

Is this declared capacity the real cap, abi kiekie?

Chief, view through attached datasheet snapshot from company !

kiekie1:
Chief, view through attached datasheet snapshot from company !

The specs are good, also with the RS communication.

But it would also be good to have first hand reviews from users, that's assuming we have peeps on this forum who have acquired it.

Please house , I'm interested to learn solar energy and inverter .. please who can teach me pls?


Location: Ogun state

kiekie1:
HURRY! DISCOUNTED PRICES!!

-SMK 40a mppt available ... 65k
-Felicity 24v 3.75kwh lithium batteries ... 355k
-Felicity 48v 7.5kwh lithium batteries ..... 640k

SMK mppt : Lcd display, user settings feature & lithium compatible.

Datasheet are also available on request !


Contact,
Smartcell global services
Call:: 081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

Is the bolded the official capacity? If yes then it's not a 200AH LFP. It's likely 150AH or less

essegis:
The 280v is well within the 450v capacity of the CC so you got no issues.

As for safer, [b]both of them go shock you. [/b]Common 8A on your panels if e leak you go feel am for body. Just continue to follow the rule of higher bolts from panel to CC & you got no issues.

Yup eventually we should all take due care in all scenarios.

ojeysky:
Is the bolded the official capacity? If yes then it's not a 200AH LFP. It's likely 150AH or less

I guess it's the usable capacity. Sometimes I do think these manufacturers should instead label the "usable capacity" instead of using "200ah" label to sell a 150ah or thereabout battery since its certain not all the 200ah can be utilised.

ewizard1:
I guess it's the usable capacity. Sometimes I do think these manufacturers should instead label the "usable capacity" instead of using "200ah" label to sell a 150ah or thereabout battery since its certain not all the 200ah can be utilised.

It's a Lifepo4 battery my brother, if you buy a new 200AH rated Lifepo4 and you are not able to get 200AH or at least 180AH out of it when it reaches 3-2.5v then it's not in its true capacity

It's clear na 3.75KW usable capacity, that's 75% to achieve >3000 cycle

Just like saying 12V, 200AH Lead acid, and 1.2KW usable capacity

Dam5reey:
It's clear na 3.75KW usable capacity.

Just like saying 12V, 200AH Lead acid, and 1.2KW usable capacity

Yes but in LFP that means the cut off voltage would be higher than 24v, the difference here is that the low cut off voltage in the spec sheet is 24v (3v per cell) if am only able to get 3.75kw when I hit 24v @DOD of 90%, it means I didn't buy a 200AH LFP battery. It's a 150AH battery (25.6×150=3840w) which is still not a bad deal compared to lead acid.

ojeysky:
It's a Lifepo4 battery my brother, if you buy a new 200AH rated Lifepo4 and you are not able to get 200AH or at least 180AH out of it when it reaches 3-2.5v then it's not in its true capacity

I understand what you mean. I'm just saying they should just calculate the whatever losses and label the product with its exact capacity. Felicity's 3.75kwh battery at 24v is just about 150ah, then label it 150ah because that's exactly what the user can access.

Dam5reey:
It's clear na 3.75KW usable capacity, that's 75% to achieve >3000 cycle

Just like saying 12V, 200AH Lead acid, and 1.2KW usable capacity

Yes but how would you react if I sold you 2liters container of ice-cream filled in a hard-to-reach container but you can only scoop half of the content. Wouldn't it be better I let you know... "this ice-cream is 1liter since it is what you can enjoy"

ewizard1:
Yes but how would you react if I sold you 2liters container of ice-cream filled in a hard-to-reach container but you can only scoop half of the content. Wouldn't it be better I let you know... "this ice-cream is 1liter since it is what you can enjoy"

is a scam but considering the price, I think is okay although is better they label it 150ah

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JUO:
is a scam but considering the price, I think is okay although is better they label it 150ah

Let's just say it was a scam when they labelled it as 200AH in the past, now that it's labelled 3.75KWh I think they've now done the right thing, unless the 200AH still exists somewhere on the specsheet or the battery box

JUO:
is a scam but considering the price, I think is okay although is better they label it 150ah

Whats your experience with your frost free fridge, any regrets?. Am assuming you keep it plugged on 247.

I have used normal fridge all my life, so this possible switch to frost free is a bit unsettling.

earthrealm:
Whats your experience with your frost free fridge, any regrets?. Am assuming you keep it plugged on 247.

I have used normal fridge all my life, so this possible switch to frost free is a bit unsettling.

no regret. Is on 24/7. I will plug a watts meter for total consumption in 24 hours. I will send you the result when done

Good morning gurus in the house. I want to DIY solar myself. I bought 1000watts souer power inverter and 100ah GBM deep cycle battery, no solar for now. please which smart charger can you recommend for the battery though I have intention to increase the battery later. which smart can you recommend for 100ah battery to charge it and can stop when charged automatically without spoiling the battery?.Thanks in anticipation

theoilguy:
House,
I am in the market for a victron smartsolar charge controller.. I am torn between a 150v-100amps or a 250v-100 Amps.. Price wise, there is a $250 difference.. Is it worth the difference in price? Are they basically the same? What advantage does the 250v have over the 150v? I have researched extensively and yet to find anything on the internet that points towards an advantage of one over the other..

All comments would be appreciated..

Buy the 150V/100A CC. Thank me later. I'll say a few words so you don't think I'm speaking arbitrarily, mostly to correct a notion or two.

I try to comment as little as possible these days. Good words of knowledge and wisdom have been spoken. Knowing you won't exceed the power capacity of the CC (about 8kWp or 6kW). 25A @ 130-150VDC from your PV isn't too much for your 10mm² cable regardless of the distance within your yard (unless you're on a farm and talking acreage). Save some $$$ at the same time avoiding the temptation to tinker with dangerously high voltages. I've been shot down on this forum for saying this but at the same voltages, DC is a dread compared to AC; regardless, both can be lethal. I wouldn't bore you with my experience or the things I've seen happen to people, death inclusive. Engage in safe practices. Always.

The 250/100 is primarily a specialty type CC. People who live in temperate regions with freezing temperatures almost doubling VoC on subzero mornings. People who tinker with stuff and wouldn't want to rewire the array from the configuration used by the string inverter. The occasional constraint on domestic PV array location. Mostly commercial use otherwise. Typically, as the difference between VoC and nominal bank voltage widens, the conversion efficiency of the CC lowers. It's weird Victron doesn't have this limitation.

And no, the CC does not exceed the 48V nominal bank voltage. VoC rate and nominal bank rating rarely are different specifications which are predetermined at manufacturing. Never connect any Victron CC to a 96V nominal battery bank. You'll roast your precious CC otherwise.

By the way. I've tried both CC variants for the sake of DIY and being a hobbyist (not 100A specs though).

ojeysky:
Yes but in LFP that means the cut off voltage would be higher than 24v, the difference here is that the low cut off voltage in the spec sheet is 24v (3v per cell) if am only able to get 3.75kw when I hit 24v @DOD of 90%, it means I didn't buy a 200AH LFP battery. It's a 150AH battery (25.6×150=3840w) which is still not a bad deal compared to lead acid.

You are missing the Point, An inverter is 3KV but continuous power is 2.4KW

And some brands are 3KVA and can do 3KW continuous

Same as the specs on the battery, The real usable capacity is advertised already so it's not a scam, they never told you it's 200AH or 150AH,
it's simply put you can use 3.75KwH from battery 24200

Capacity is correct, you the only thing you can argue if the price is right or not, the specs is what it is.

Dam5reey:
You are missing the Point, An inverter is 3KV but continuous power is 2.4KW

And some brands are 3KVA and can do 3KW continuous

Same as the specs on the battery, The real usable capacity is advertised already so it's not a scam, they never told you it's 200AH or 150AH,
it's simply put you can use 3.75KwH from battery 24200

Capacity is correct, you the only thing you can argue if the price is right or not, the specs is what it is.

I think you missed the point, the battery was earlier advertised as 200AH. See my subsequent post quoted below:

ojeysky:
Let's just say it was a scam when they labelled it as 200AH in the past, now that it's labelled 3.75KWh I think they've now done the right thing, unless the 200AH still exists somewhere on the specsheet or the battery box

Dam5reey:
You are missing the Point, An inverter is 3KV but continuous power is 2.4KW

And some brands are 3KVA and can do 3KW continuous

Same as the specs on the battery, The real usable capacity is advertised already so it's not a scam, they never told you it's 200AH or 150AH,
it's simply put you can use 3.75KwH from battery 24200

Capacity is correct, you the only thing you can argue if the price is right or not, the specs is what it is.

its was initially advertised @200AH but the usable capacity was not stated. but with the spec sheet now, its better.

for the price range and dod, i think its a very good deal (if it can do the 3000 cycles at the rated 60a, it will be a good buy).

saint2ace:
I would like to ask a question can one mix lifepo4 (lithium) and lead acid batteries together, either by series or parallel?

never ever do that. D golden rules when joining batteries either in parallel or series is never add dissimilar batteries together. Their charging and discharging rates are different.

idris4r83:
never ever do that. D golden rules when joining batteries either in parallel or series is never add dissimilar batteries together. Their charging and discharging rates are different.

Thanks boss, I appreciate your response. Gracias

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