olise88:
Good afternoon. Please, I want a solar structure as well as batteries for my household appliances( TV, Fans, bulbs, deep freezer, fridge and other minor appliances). But I want the fridge and freezer to be always on (24/7) while every other appliance can be average of 12 hours per day. I'm thinking 4 batteries of 12v200Ahr, 6 mono crystalline panels of 200W and an inverter of 12V2kva will do the job for me.

Please, kindly advise on how to go about it because it's urgent. Thanks.

ok. 200w x 6 = 1200w


that setup is not sufficient to charge your batteries full in 5-6 hours of peak sunlight, with other loads on

but first provide the wattage for your fridge and freezer, , how many fans, and bulbs

give a clear detailed power rating of your appliances, to get best advise.

unicmarket:


ok. 200w x 6 = 1200w


that setup is not sufficient to charge your batteries full in 5-6 hours of peak sunlight, with other loads on

but first provide the wattage for your fridge and freezer, , how many fans, and bulbs

give a clear detailed power rating of your appliances, to get best advise.

600 watts solar panel per 200ah battery, implies you'll need 2400 watts solar panel capacity for efficient charging of your 4 batteries.
You will need 24v or 48v inverter system for efficiency also and future loads expansion, 3000watts to 4000watts inverter with good inbuilt charger (40/50amps) for nepa/gen powered.
Make sure your fridge/freezer are energy efficient , average 100 watts running power consumption .
You will need one 60amps mppt charge controller for 48v battery/inverter setup.
Or two 60amps mppt charge controller for 24v battery/inverter setup.
U start with half the requirements and half the loads, then expand later when convenient.
48v setup is better and cheaper on the long run.

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It's a 3 bedroom flat with a TV, 4 ceiling fans, energy saving bulbs and a deep freezer (I can't really tell the power consumption of these appliances). But the deep freezer should always be on. During the day, maybe a fan or two runs with the freezer only. Then the fans and TV runs in the evening before bedtime while the freezer continues running.
Note that the concentration is on the freezer to continue running.

Thanks for your response boss

unicmarket:


ok. 200w x 6 = 1200w


that setup is not sufficient to charge your batteries full in 5-6 hours of peak sunlight, with other loads on

but first provide the wattage for your fridge and freezer, , how many fans, and bulbs

give a clear detailed power rating of your appliances, to get best advise.

Thanks boss for the analysis. But I don't intend increasing the load. My priority is just for the freezer to be powered continuously. The house is always empty till evening when TV and fans will run for few hours before bedtime.

Malquisoft:

600 watts solar panel per 200ah battery, implies you'll need 2400 watts solar panel capacity for efficient charging of your 4 batteries.
You will need 24v or 48v inverter system for efficiency also and future loads expansion, 3000watts to 4000watts inverter with good inbuilt charger (40/50amps) for nepa/gen powered.
Make sure your fridge/freezer are energy efficient , average 100 watts running power consumption .
You will need one 60amps mppt charge controller for 48v battery/inverter setup.
Or two 60amps mppt charge controller for 24v battery/inverter setup.
U start with half the requirements and half the loads, then expand later when convenient.
48v setup is better and cheaper on the long run.

olise88:
It's a 3 bedroom flat with a TV, 4 ceiling fans, energy saving bulbs and a deep freezer (I can't really tell the power consumption of these appliances). But the deep freezer should always be on. During the day, maybe a fan or two runs with the freezer only. Then the fans and TV runs in the evening before bedtime while the freezer continues running.
Note that the concentration is on the freezer to continue running.

Thanks for your response boss

Snap and post the labels/inscriptions on the appliances, especially the freezer.

That's where I'm having issue. I'm in Lagos now and the project is in Delta state. The bulbs should be 15W (about 10), TV and the freezer shouldn't be more than 120W and 250W respectively while the 4 fans should be around 80W each. Then additional load of say 100W. Let's estimate with these values.

Thanks boss

IYGEAL:


Snap and post the labels/inscriptions on the appliances, especially the freezer.

Peterlove11:


Am using felicity hybrid with luminous 220ah wet cell batteries.......it's editable. Though Maximum voltage is 58.4v with equalization function. It works well for the batteries and charges very fast. Carries my whole flat, My freezer runs on it 24/7. Funnily I cook with it everyday(use 1.8kw infrared fast burner)

how many kva and v is it?

No, it's not independent of battery

IYGEAL:


Okay. Thanks.

Please do you know if it works without battery?

Easy fix

Loosen the back of the fan and located the moving parts, get a good oil that won't evaporate on heating of the coils and carefully apply it on them.

Couple back gently and power it up.

You should be back enjoying that cool breeze

Cheers

ojesymsym:
When a standing fan begins to have a humming sound when on and only starts rotating when the blade is rotated, what needs to be repaired? The capacitor at the regulator part has been changed, the refusal to rotate still persist.

All the fan repairers I used to see in the area seem to have disappeared.

olise88:
That's where I'm having issue. I'm in Lagos now and the project is in Delta state. The bulbs should be 15W (about 10), TV and the freezer shouldn't be more than 120W and 250W respectively while the 4 fans should be around 80W each. Then additional load of say 100W. Let's estimate with these values.

Thanks boss

my guy, for this solar energy journey u are about to embark, u might need to spend heavily on energy ⚡ efficient gadgets first.
1, u dont need to use 15w bulbs, when there are super bright 3w or 5w LED bulbs
2, 120W for TV and 250w for freezer is too much. a good energy efficient TV should not consume more than 50w on good energy savings settings, while there are good freezers than doesn't consume more than 130w
3, your 4pcs AC fans consuming 80w(320w) is on the high side, try and replace them with energy efficient DC/AC fans( there ones that consume less than 20w each)
i hope this help in a way.. no vex oo

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I'd advice that you get the following accurately

Power consumption of all you have listed below and state the hours you'd like each to run for either day or night.

This way your storage capacity and inverter capacity will be determined.

Else I am afraid you might end up with a half baked solution you won't like. So better to have a road map for things now and work towards it.

I can share with you a form that you can fill and return and I can help you at my leisure.

Happy weekend!

olise88:
Good afternoon. Please, I want a solar structure as well as batteries for my household appliances( TV, Fans, bulbs, deep freezer, fridge and other minor appliances). But I want the fridge and freezer to be always on (24/7) while every other appliance can be average of 12 hours per day. I'm thinking 4 batteries of 12v200Ahr, 6 mono crystalline panels of 200W and an inverter of 12V2kva will do the job for me.

Please, kindly advise on how to go about it because it's urgent. Thanks.

olopan:
No, it's not independent of battery

Okay. Noted.

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Right on point! I have had the system setup for about 48hrs+ with some key observations. At lower voltage/capacity range the lithium batt was OK but once the voltage gets above 27. 7v or so, the BMS starts to get hot. I noticed this as the system was being charged with 35amps (100% charge capacity ) from the grid through a Felicity inverter. I had to change to 25% charge capacity for the BMS to cool down somewhat. I also reduced the bulk voltage to 28.1. About 24hrs earlier, I added another 200amps to the lead acids setup and I am not sure if this contributed to the issue.

I really don't mind much if the lead acids do not get maximum charges during the "experimental stage" as I will likely modify again soon.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I read this with some excitement as I have considered and experimented with mixing different battery types and chemistries together - when I maxed out budget on Pylontech, I considered mixing with Dyness batteries which had similar voltage profile but ultimately did not pursue this path - I have also considered mixing with the Felicity LifePO4.

Lest people begin to apply this solution indiscriminately, I feel compelled to say it only appears to be working in your scenario because the two batteries being combined have fairly similar charge profiles - indeed the Lithium bank will charge and discharge first but that is about where the similarities end.

If you are running a high C rate application (charging with large currents and discharging with large loads) you may find the Lead Acid bank being stressed more than they can handle (your charger will not suddenly throttle current when charging switches to the Lead Acid only and neither will the loads suddenly drop off when being supplied by the Lead Acid only) - for long term stability, you would be constrained to set your absorb voltage to slightly undercharge the Lithium bank (not get to 100% capacity) and possibly severely undercharge the lead acid battery since the critical absorb phase it needs cannot be properly done - incorporate a separate charger for the Lead Acid and you would potentially be overcharging the Lithium bank unless you have a mechanism to isolate the batteries while still keeping inverter and other charge sources powered up from DC.

The way to run this safely is to isolate the two banks and dedicate isolated charging sources to each battery type - at the minimum there should be a dedicated inverter per battery bank and have them switch powering the loads with a suitable changeover arrangement - this can be done seamlessly.

You can go a step further by setting your large loads to power off when the main battery hits LVD and this way use a much smaller inverter running smaller loads to get through the rest of the night.

If you persist on the path of paralleling two different battery types, it is key to mention that at the point of combining them together, the two battery banks must be at thesame voltage at a minimum else you will surely see sparks fly as large and unregulated currents move from the higher voltage battery to the lower voltage battery - with Lithium batteries unregulated large currents can easily damage the battery contacts or permanently weld the internal protective relays all of which will cost you some inconvenience to fix.

abbeymighty:
how many kva and v is it?

5kva/48v

durodee:
Right on point! I have had the system setup for about 48hrs+ with some key observations. At lower voltage/capacity range the lithium batt was OK but once the voltage gets above 27. 7v or so, the BMS starts to get hot. I noticed this as the system was being charged with 35amps (100% charge capacity ) from the grid through a Felicity inverter. I had to change to 25% charge capacity for the BMS to cool down somewhat. I also reduced the bulk voltage to 28.1. About 24hrs earlier, I added another 200amps to the lead acids setup and I am not sure if this contributed to the issue.

I really don't mind much if the lead acids do not get maximum charges during the "experimental stage" as I will likely modify again soon.

Whats the spec of your bms?.
Have you ever done a capacity test of your lithuim bank?.

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adrusa:
home assistant - BMV

.... but mine is controlled by my home automation using homeassistant. The State of Charge (SOC) of my battery and the voltage is fed into the homeassistant through Victron BMV. Any voltage sensor can also do the same. The SOC and Voltage then trigger a normal ac/dc relay to supply AC to the inverter if I need extra juice especially on days my batteries were not filled during the day.

@adrusa

Could you expantiate a bit on how you achieved the item in bold? I have been able to extract the data through Victron BMV (see attached screenshot) however, am yet to trigger anything but that's my plan. So it will be faster for me if you can describe it here. A lot of us will learn from you. You will also notice the Battery consumption and voltage is multiplied by x10 which may be confusing but thats the way its extracted.

No I have not done a capacity testing myself. I don't know if Ojeysky might help in that regards since I got the battery off him a few months back.

earthrealm:


Whats the spec of your bms?.
Have you ever done a capacity test of your lithuim bank?.

Wetin inverters like Victron, SMA, Magnum, Studer come be o?

earthrealm:


Deye with 195amps charging current, will breeze through this under 6hrs.
Deye na baba for men wey sabi, wey hol bar join.
Sorotec na for men wey sabi, wey no wan sp3nd unecessary bar on basic sh, it