I bought this baby this Jan. Its now consuming lots of fuel, smoking black heavilly with an offensive odour. Doesn't run smoothly, sometimes even when you step heavily on the accelerator, it won't respond until it feels like and it will just jump off! selection is begun a bit noisy.


I have changed the fuel pump,oil, spark plugs and the MAF-tokumbor though and suspect it isn't good!

What next do I do?
Please someone good should help me out!!!!!!!

dont waist money. scan dat car. dat car is the best on earth i jealouse ma friends own. though am lovin ma pathy. wish u speedy recovery

You have been wasting your money on things that are not important. Lexus cars run on premium Unleaded fuel and using Regular unleaded will make your Engine Control Management to retard the ignition timing to prevent the car from knocking and this process will make you lose fuel, your exhaust is full of carbon deposits while your engine is filled up with carbon too. What to do is to get Octane Booster to boost the fuel to Premium. Contact us for directions on how you can visit our workshop in Lagos or Abuja. We surely have all that you need to put that wonderful car on the road. nigeriaarc@yahoo.com
Rescue and Recovery Nigeria Limited

thanks Seina, U re too much. Plz let me have ur # so we cud talk on phone.

I just got the car scanned n the result indicated O2 sensors n MAF. I need to buy these now. D MAF I had changed has a very low ratio! Can U(Siena) help?

Siena, thanks for your post. At. Least you admit that using low octane fuel can cause poor fuel economy and the brother has changed many components that are fuel related. The first thing that goes bad in a car using low octane fuel is the 02 sensors and then the air and fuel sensor will go bunkers and the MAP will be sending wrong signals to the ECU. In my workshop, this has been the solution that we recommend to our clients and it works. Let the brother goggle the effect of using a low octane fuel on a Lexus that requires Premium Unleaded fuel. The end result is a knocked engine or a bad. Transmission. The money that the brother has spent on finding the solution is higher than a little fraction he will spend buying boosters. Where are the VW cars on the roads, even golf 3, V booth mercedes uses Premium and ask those that drive them what cost using the car has made them to cough out. Even among new cars, the issue is raging. Mercedes bring in cars that run on leaded fuel while Stalion bring in Porsche that runs on unleaded fuel. What is the actual fuel that we use in the Country. Regular unleaded. VW advises that you don't use full throttle when you buy low octane fuel. What is the cause of ignition timing over advanced which is now common in almost all Nissan and Infinity cars? Why is Camshaft position sensor always a common feature in Mercedes? Fuel, low octane fuel being used on a car that requires Premium. Even in America, they still use octane Boosters in cities where there is no Premium. Most AMG cars uses higher Octane fuel like 93 and where there is 91 available, they use booster to boost the octane. Let the brother continues to spend money on parts that is in order when all he needs is just changing to a higher fuel that his car requires. It is his money and he has the right to spend it the way that pleases him.
Rescue and Recovery Nigeria

Guess OP needs to verify if the RX300 is "premium recommended" or "premium required" from the vehicle manual. If premium is required, then octane booster may help prevent long term and more costly damage. More info on the Edmunds article below:

"In today's automobiles, advances in engine technology mean that even if the owner's manual recommends premium gasoline, the car will typically run on regular without knocking. Its performance will suffer only slightly: Perhaps it might be a half-second slower from zero to 60 mph. The key for drivers is to know whether premium gasoline is merely recommended or if it's required.

Edmunds has compiled two lists: "premium recommended" and "premium required" for vehicles from the 2008-2012 model years (with a few 2013 model-year vehicles). If your vehicle is on the "premium recommended" list, you're OK to switch to regular unleaded gasoline. If, on the other hand, your car is on the "premium required" list, then you should run premium fuel. You can confirm our information by checking your owner's manual — always a good idea.

Premium recommended - http://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/unversioned/img/pdf/premium.gasoline/premium.recommended.030112.pdf

Premium required - http://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/unversioned/img/pdf/premium.gasoline/premium.required.030112.pdf

If you're still in doubt about switching to a lower-octane fuel, here's a deeper explanation of why the change is unlikely to hurt your car.

In the bad old days, engines could not adjust to fuels with varying octane ratings. Use the wrong fuel and the engine would knock audibly as the fuel combustion became uncontrolled. Knock is an engine phenomenon that can damage internal engine components over time.

Today, engine control systems can compensate for low octane by monitoring knock activity and adjusting ignition advance to quell the knock. This sophisticated electronic capability effectively tunes the engine on the fly and gives drivers more flexibility in the grade of fuels that they can safely use.

Compared to premium gasoline, lower-octane fuels don't allow the engine to run as much ignition advance during situations where lots of throttle might be used. More ignition advance allows the engine to make more power, and accelerate faster, during these conditions. Since the engine doesn't make quite as much power with lower-octane fuels, this translates into slower acceleration in cars for which premium fuel is recommended. The performance loss is especially noticeable in turbocharged gasoline engines.

The performance loss, however, is something you will only notice if you have a heavy foot and accelerate rapidly both from a dead stop and while changing lanes at highway speeds. But if you accelerate moderately, the loss of power is less noticeable, regardless of whether you use premium or regular-grade fuel.

Edmunds has noted, however, at least one case in which a car with a small turbocharged engine got better fuel economy when running on premium. The car in question was a 2011 Chevrolet Cruze LTZ and, perhaps befitting a car that's marketed as a money-saver, the owner's manual only calls for regular unleaded gasoline. Edmunds director of vehicle testing, Dan Edmunds, documented the performance of regular vs. premium for fuel economy in our Long Term Road Test Blog. One factor affecting the outcome of the experiment might have been that the testing was conducted in extreme hot-weather conditions.

If you want to see if you can save money by using premium in a car that doesn't require it, conduct your own test project. Fill up on regular gasoline. Record the trip mileage, gallons used, fuel price and octane rating in a notebook or in an app such as Road Trip or on site such as Fuelly. If your car has an onboard fuel economy meter, make sure you reset it when filling up. Then switch to premium fuel, do the same number of fill-ups and check the result.

That's the drill for a premium-recommended car — you can stay with premium, or step down to regular unleaded if you want to. It's a different story for a car whose engine requires premium fuel. The car will still run on regular fuel in a pinch — but you shouldn't make a habit out of it. The fuel's lower octane can result in elevated exhaust-gas temperatures and possible knocking, both of which can adversely affect the long term engine's health. Running regular-grade fuel in a car that requires premium might sound like a good way to shave a car's running costs, but the short-term savings won't come close to offsetting the cost of repairs to a damaged engine.

For those driving "recommended premium" cars, however, it's just a matter of driving moderately and avoiding acceleration with a wide-open throttle. Do that and you might never feel the difference between using premium and regular grade gasoline — and neither will your car".

http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/to-save-money-on-gas-stop-buying-premium.html

Siena, thanks for your response. At Least the brother now understands a lot about his car. My range Rover sport recommends Premium while Nissan jeeps recommends Premium too. For maximum performance. Land Rover LR3 requires premium only same thing with VW, MB and BMW. Whenever I buy fuel without using the booster, a check engine light appears on the dash and the result of the scan is cylinders are misfiring and the system is too lean or rich as the case may be. Let the brother check his. Engine oil cap if he has sludge, which is another common feature. His coming to my workshop is to put everything in order. Who knows if the plugs on the car are meant for Toyota Corrola as most people buy plugs without reference to the car manual. Whenever I travel to Abuja from Lagos, I spend 10k on fuel for a journey of 799kms and the booster has proved to be a cost saver. I did not even know you are not in Nigeria, I was thinking of rubbing minds with you. Thanks to the brother who did that research on fuel. I advise all motorists to do the same.it is very important. Fuel related problems in cars is becoming a major headache for motorists.

The codes re
P0171, P0110 &P0330
now it does appear that the major issue is MAF? Are the O2 sensors really bad or they indicate the problem? Did a little research though n feel I should get the MAF n watch the baby's response.
The guy mentioned to buy engine coolant switch and change all three sensors! House, where U U recommend I start from?

System Too Lean (Bank 1)

What does that mean?Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 has detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1. The P0171 is one of the more common trouble codes.

This code is triggered by the first downstream (front) O2 sensor. The sensor provides a reading of the air:fuel ratio leaving the engine's cylinders, and the vehicles powertrain/engine control module (PCM/ECM) uses that reading and adjusts to keep the engine running at that optimum ratio of 14.7:1. If something is not right and the PCM cannot maintain the 14.7:1 ratio, but rather there is too much air, it triggers this code.


Symptoms:You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as:

•a lack of power
•detonation (spark knock)
•rough idle
•hesitation/surge on acceleration.
CausesA code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

•The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
•There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
•Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
•Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
•Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
•Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
•Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
•Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
Possible SolutionsA lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain. So, possible solutions include:

•Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
•Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required
•Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system
•Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage
•Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure
•Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool
•If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test

Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction

What does that mean?The IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor is a thermistor, which basically means it measures air temperature by detecting resistance in the air. It's usually located somewhere in the intake air ductwork, but can be located in the intake manifold on some applications. It is usually a two wire sensor supplied with a 5 volt reference wire (which also acts as a signal wire) from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and a ground wire.

As air passes over the sensor the resistance changes. This change in resistance affects the 5 Volts supplied to the sensor accordingly. Colder air causes higher resistance and higher signal voltage & warmer air lower resistance and lower signal voltage. The PCM monitors this change in the 5 Volts and calculates air temperature. If the PCM detects a voltage that is out of normal operating range for the sensor, P0110 will set.


SymptomsThere may be no noticeable symptoms other than MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) illumination. However, it could be possible that you may experience poor drivability complaints.

CausesPotential causes of the P0110 DTC include:

IAT sensor shifted out of airflow
Bad IAT sensor
Shorted to ground or open on signal circuit to IAT
Open in ground circuit to IAT
Poor connection at IAT (backed out terminals, broken connector locks, etc.)
Bad PCM
Possible SolutionsFirst visually check that the IAT is in place and hasn't been dislodged. As a quick check of the IAT, use a scan tool & check for IAT reading with KOEO (Key on engine off). If the engine is cold, the IAT reading should be the same as the CTS (Coolant temperature sensor) reading. If it shows more than a few degrees variance (for example, if it indicates a temperature extreme like negative 40 deg. or 300 deg. then obviously there's a problem) unplug the IAT and do a resistance test across the two terminals.

Each sensor will have different resistances so you'll have to get that info from a repair manual. If the resistance of the IAT sensor isn't within specs, replace the sensor. There should be some resistance, so if it measures infinite resistance, replace the sensor.

Having said that, here is a little more diagnostic info if that doesn't take care of it:

1. If your KOEO IAT reading is at the high extreme, like 300 deg. (which obviously is inaccurate), disconnect the IAT sensor. If the reading now shows the lowest extreme (-50 or so), then replace the IAT sensor. However, if when unplugging the IAT, the reading doesn't change then turn off the ignition and disconnect the PCM connector. Use a voltmeter to check for continuity between a good ground and the signal wire to the IAT. If there is continuity, then repair short to ground on the signal wire. If there is not continuity, then the PCM may have a problem

2. If your KOEO IAT reading is at the low extreme, again disconnect the IAT connector. Check that there is 5 Volts on the signal and the other is grounded.
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)

What does that mean?A knock sensor tells the engine computer when one or more of your engine's cylinders are "knocking", that is, exploding the air/fuel mixture in a way that delivers less power and can be damaging to the engine if prolonged. The computer uses this information to tune the engine so that it doesn't knock. If your knock sensor wasn't operating properly, so that it was always indicating a knock, the engine computer's response may have been to change the ignition timing on your engine. Knock sensors generally bolt into or thread into the engine block. This P0330 code may show up intermittently or the Service Engine light may be lit constantly. Other knock sensor related DTC codes include P0325.

SymptomsYou may notice drivability problems including a lack of power and perhaps some hesitation. There may also be other symptoms.

CausesA code P0330 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

The "B" knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
There is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit
Possible SolutionsCheck the resistance of the knock sensor on bank 2 (compare it to factory specs)
Check for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor
Replace the knock sensor on bank 2

a. If you have 5 volts present and a good ground, jumper the two terminals together. Now the reading on the scanner should be at the high extreme. If it is, replace the IAT sensor. But if it stays low even after you jumper the two wires together, then there may be an open in the wiring harness or a problem with the PCM.

b. If you don't have 5 Volts present, then check for reference voltage back at the PCM connector. If it's present there but not at the IAT sensor, repair the open in the signal wire.


Other IAT sensor and circuit related DTCs: P0095, P0096, P0097, P0098, P0099, P0109, P0111, P0112, P0113, P0114
Voila.
Rescue and Recovery Nigeria

Nice things u guys ar doing. Pls got code p0110 my IAT sensor is missing. And my 2001 pathy lacks power or strugle with the gear climbing hills. Can it be the absence of IAT sensor? And wat might be the inplication of driving this car. It's usually located somewhere in the intake air ductwork, but can be located in the intake manifold on some applications. It is usually a two wire sensor supplied with a 5 volt reference wire (which also acts as a signal wire) from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and a ground wire.

As air passes over the sensor the resistance changes. This change in resistance affects the 5 Volts supplied to the sensor accordingly. Colder air causes higher resistance and higher signal voltage & warmer air lower resistance and lower signal voltage. The PCM monitors this change in the 5 Volts and calculates air temperature. If the PCM detects a voltage that is out of normal operating range for the sensor, P0110 will set.


SymptomsThere may be no noticeable symptoms other than MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) illumination. However, it could be possible that you may experience poor drivability complaints.

CausesPotential causes of the P0110 DTC include:

IAT sensor shifted out of airflow
Bad IAT sensor
Shorted to ground or open on signal circuit to IAT
Open in ground circuit to IAT
Poor connection at IAT (backed out terminals, broken connector locks, etc.)
Bad PCM
Possible SolutionsFirst visually check that the IAT is in place and hasn't been dislodged. As a quick check of the IAT, use a scan tool & check for IAT reading with KOEO (Key on engine off). If the engine is cold, the IAT reading should be the same as the CTS (Coolant temperature sensor) reading. If it shows more than a few degrees variance (for example, if it indicates a temperature extreme like negative 40 deg. or 300 deg. then obviously there's a problem) unplug the IAT and do a resistance test across the two terminals.

Each sensor will have different resistances so you'll have to get that info from a repair manual. If the resistance of the IAT sensor isn't within specs, replace the sensor. There should be some resistance, so if it measures infinite resistance, replace the sensor.

Having said that, here is a little more diagnostic info if that doesn't take care of it:

1. If your KOEO IAT reading is at the high extreme, like 300 deg. (which obviously is inaccurate), disconnect the IAT sensor. If the reading now shows the lowest extreme (-50 or so), then replace the IAT sensor. However, if when unplugging the IAT, the reading doesn't change then turn off the ignition and disconnect the PCM connector. Use a voltmeter to check for continuity between a good ground and the signal wire to the IAT. If there is continuity, then repair short to ground on the signal wire. If there is not continuity, then the PCM may have a problem

2. If your KOEO IAT reading is at the low extreme, again disconnect the IAT connector. Check that there is 5 Volts on the signal and the other is grounded.
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)

What does that mean?A knock sensor tells the engine computer when one or more of your engine's cylinders are "knocking", that is, exploding the air/fuel mixture in a way that delivers less power and can be damaging to the engine if prolonged. The computer uses this information to tune the engine so that it doesn't knock. If your knock sensor wasn't operating properly, so that it was always indicating a knock, the engine computer's response may have been to change the ignition timing on your engine. Knock sensors generally bolt into or thread into the engine block. This P0330 code may show up intermittently or the Service Engine light may be lit constantly. Other knock sensor related DTC codes include P0325.

SymptomsYou may notice drivability problems including a lack of power and perhaps some hesitation. There may also be other symptoms.

CausesA code P0330 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

The "B" knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
There is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit
Possible SolutionsCheck the resistance of the knock sensor on bank 2 (compare it to factory specs)
Check for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor
Replace the knock sensor on bank 2

a. If you have 5 volts present and a good ground, jumper the two terminals together. Now the reading on the scanner should be at the high extreme. If it is, replace the IAT sensor. But if it stays low even after you jumper the two wires together, then there may be an open in the wiring harness or a problem with the PCM.

b. If you don't have 5 Volts present, then check for reference voltage back at the PCM connector. If it's present there but not at the IAT sensor, repair the open in the signal wire.


Other IAT sensor and circuit related DTCs: P0095, P0096, P0097, P0098, P0099, P0109, P0111, P0112, P0113, P0114
Voila.
Rescue and Recover

Is there Service Engine Soon on your dashboard. Do the scan and let us know
Rescue and Recovery Nigeria Limited

Yea there is. And the it always trow p0110 and p0345. Tell me the inplication driving this car 4 long time

sooper rescue: Is there Service Engine Soon on your dashboard. Do the scan and let us know
Rescue and Recovery Nigeria Limited

To all just take several pic of your engine from different angle and they will be able to tell you what is missing,needs replacement/inspection etc it will make things a lot easier for you to understand as a owner or by models

tutsonf: I bought this baby this Jan. Its now consuming lots of fuel, smoking black heavilly with an offensive odour. Doesn't run smoothly, sometimes even when you step heavily on the accelerator, it won't respond until it feels like and it will just jump off! selection is begun a bit noisy.


I have changed the fuel pump,oil, spark plugs and the MAF-tokumbor though and suspect it isn't good!

What next do I do?
Please someone good should help me out!!!!!!!

If am correct it is a 3.3 or 3.5 ltr V6 engine, its bound to consume more fuel

youngchopper: Yea there is. And the it always trow p0110 and p0345. Tell me the inplication driving this car 4 long time

That is why I said you should all post pics, what might look normal to you might be the problem, and you should start knowing what the engine bay of your car looks like.

Ma pathy was doing dix rubbish. Just 2day i notic the air vaccum box or wateva its been called was missing. I advice u to take ur car to a competend garage with anoda xterra of dsame model of urs. Try to check wats missing in urs. Guess u just bought dat fuel guzler. Sorry exterra.

Look at this page, imaging someone buying such a clean car and having problem with it without knowing if anything was missing becuse they are not amiliar with the engine bay( their mechanic won't know either one of them did that damage)
https://www.nairaland.com/919542/hyundai-sonata-2011-american-spec

Now am a bit wary of getting a vehicle that requires premium fuel. Was getting to like the ML350. Now I have to turn to boring Toyotas.

Hello People!!
i am new here..
My lexus Rx 300 is consuming so much fuel and smoking black from the exhaust......
Can i get some help here..

happy new all!!