Everything you need to know about suits, including what to look for
when buying them, how to get them tailored, and the coats to wear
with them.
Rule #1
Some think button-down collars are for casual wear only, but they can
work great with dressier looks as well.
Rule #2
Polka dots are a great way to bring energy to a suit. Make sure they’re
big enough to be recognizable, but not so large that they’re goofy.
Rule #3
A tried-and-true pattern like herringbone or glen plaid in a muted shade
makes an impression without crossing into the realm of garishness.
Rule #4
Visible stitches around the edges of your lapels (called pick-stitching)
aren’t necessarily a sign of a well-made garment anymore. However,
they can be an attractive decorative flourish—as long as they’re subtle.
No contrast stitching!
Rule #5
Some say you shouldn’t cut the stitching in your jacket pockets, because
putting objects in them will cause your jacket to lose its shape. Don’t
listen. It’s pointless to have nonfunctional pockets, and a concert ticket
or a business-card holder certainly won’t do any damage.
Rule #6
Always unfasten your jacket buttons when you sit. No exceptions.
Rule #7
Never fasten the bottom button of a double-breasted jacket (unless it has
only a single row of buttons).
Rule #8
Avoid over-accessorizing. If you’re already wearing a pocket square and
a tie bar, you’ll want to reconsider that clever lapel pin.
Rule #9
When you go without a tie, it’s best to keep your shirt collar on the
maller side.
Rule #10
You Can’t Beat English Tailoring
cloth, and it’s much less sewing.”
“I definitely have friends who wear Italian-style suits, which are softer
and have less structure. But I prefer English tailoring, which gives suits
more shape and a well-defined shoulder. To me, it just looks sharper.”
Rule #13
Mind Your Silhouette
“You can tell a good handmade suit by looking at it from 50 yards off—
it’s about overall harmony and balance. The trousers should be slim, the
shoulders narrow, the waist nipped.”
Rule #14
Gray-Flannel Suits Always Look Good
“They just work brilliantly with everything. They’re elegant without
being stuffy and look beautifully luxurious.”
Rule #15
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: Fit is everything. (See
above.) Even the world’s most expensive suit will look bad if it isn’t
tailored to the contours of your body.
• •
PLUS: WHAT TO LOOK FOR BEFORE YOU BUY
Rule #16
✓ When your jacket is buttoned, you should be able to fit a fist between
your chest and the fabric—no more, no less.
Rule #17
✓ Before buying a suit online, try it on in a store first to make sure the
shoulders fit, as sizing varies widely among brands.
Rule #18
✓ Your jacket sleeves should reveal about half an inch of shirt cuff. If
they don’t, try a short size instead—you could save yourself a trip to the
tailor later on.
Rule #19
✓ Choose fabric according to how often you’ll wear the suit. The most
versatile option is a soft but durable wool like super 120 (a measure of
yarn fineness; any higher is too delicate for daily use).
Rule #20
✓ Your pants should sit at your waist (not your hips). You should be
able to fit one finger into the waistband comfortably.
COATS

Remember, people see your coat before they see your suit. If you’ve
gone to the trouble of putting together the perfect ensemble, you owe it
to yourself to finish the look with the right top layer. Whether you want
single- or double-breasted, a classic or a bold color, a solid shade or a
pattern, there’s a well-cut coat to suit you.
Rule #21
A double-breasted overcoat should be slim so it doesn’t billow when
open.
Rule #22
A slightly cropped overcoat will elongate your silhouette.
Rule #23
A pattern is a great complement to a neutral suit.
Rule #24
Camel will give you the ultimate luxe look.
source: www.yogbosa.com