My friend purchased a Naija used car described above. It was reasonably affordable plus good payment option. However, he knew he had alot of fixes. We didnt scan prior to payment. We were informed by seller that the engine had oil pump problems but was sorted meaning some work was done on the engine.

After scan, i got a long list of codes;
P0011 - VTC system malfunction
C1555 - Power steering
P0171 - Fuel injection system too lean
P2185 - Engine coolant temperature sensor 2 circuit high voltage
P0341 - Camshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected

Please not that there is an intake hose leak that was taped with masking tape. The hose is in budget to replace. The most serious is the VTC matter which search results says the VTC actuator has failed and need to be replaced. Part of the search says the engine will rattle at cold start for 2 secs then quiet. It does exactly that and a little more when downshifting after hard accelration to about 4k rpm. That is serious and too technical for DIY. The P0341might be as a result of out VTC out of time or.just may be the engine time was messed with and incorrect.

C1555 is least of my worries since the PS is working well.

P0171 may be as a result of intake hose leak, we'll see after it is replaced

P2185 i cannot confirm if thermostat is in place but fan is normal on automatic. My guess is its still in place but that will be surprising since am sure a Kazeem messed up the car in the first place.

I did clear the codes and drove for 2 days. The codes all came back with additional ones; P0300, 0301, 0303, 0304 ie cylinder 1,3 and 4 misfire. New plugs in budget plus the intake leak hoping to solve that one. Lest i forget, the engine idle is ok but misses under acceleration.

TPMS is on which i read triggers the VSA and then some power is lost becoming a nuisance. Driving the car, i have noticed once VSA comes on, considerable power is lost. The manual says so and futher says as TPMS is on VSA cannot be turned off.

The 2008 accord is a luxury vehicle and it needs pampering a lot. The P0341 is the one I have an idea of because my RAV4 threw up the same code. That one, if the sensors are ok, you might need a mechanic to check if the engine has been worked on. If yes, you need to reset the timing. This entails opening the engine cover at least. P0301 and the likes... eight your plugs are faulty or the sensors on the plug cap.... it's like 3k5 each; but check the plugs first. I'm still having issues with my VSA, ABS, Brake and Seat belts light all on on my dash and cannot be detected but it does not affect my driving so I'm waiting to reach The Honda Place when I'm less busy.

Timing marks are not set properly.

Leaks on the intake

Temp sensor 2 "located on lower right of radiator" is not connected

And a host of other problems.


If the engine does not rattle, short oil or smoke "blueish" then fixing her would make sense.

If not, channel your energies to getting a new engine.



For repairs and further consultancy contact signature.

GAZZUZZ:
Timing marks are not set properly.

Leaks on the intake

Temp sensor 2 "located on lower right of radiator" is not connected

And a host of other problems.


If the engine does not rattle, short oil or smoke "blueish" then fixing her would make sense.

If not, channel your energies to getting a new engine.



For repairs and further consultancy contact signature.

I was thinking same too, that the timing wasnt set well. It looks like a bad job was done replacing failed oil pump.

Leaks on intake will be taken care of very soon. it should not be more than 4k. My 2003 accord intake hose is broken too, cost is 3k.

Thanks for the location of temp sensor, i shall check.

The engine does not rattle, short oil or smoke (bluish). Like i said, the rattle it makes is at cold start for about 1-2 seconds and thats all. The code P0011 and P0341 suggest camshaft problems and specifically the VTC actuator. I have read the procedure for its change but how to source a good one will be a problem. I was thinking what if the timing was bad and not the actuator? Would timing setting make the rattle and missing stop? I wouldn't want a situation where valve cover will be opened and we see the timing marks in correct position and not have the VTC actuator to replace as worst case scenario. I also want to have a valve feeler gauge available to check the valve clearances at once. I couldn't source the gauge on amazon cos of ridiculous shipping cost.

I assured my friend we may not need a new engine before we settled for the car. We had already made inquiries on a new engine before the deal as worst case scenario, buying one will make the purchase a bad one.

Unfortunately, i am in ABJ.

Thank u once again GAZZUZZ. From your description of the position of temp sensor i saw 2 loose wires at the bottom right hand side of the radiator. I cant access from to the top but from under, i will try to fix when i can have access to a service pit.

Secondly, the car over heated this afternoon after my friend probably drove hard trying to get to a church program in time. At idle i could hear sounds at the cylinder head left side. Am sure either the timing is out or the camshaft has a problem.

How much do you think the whole cylinder head would cost or a complete camshaft with VTC actuator? Changing just the actuator is more complex since compressed air and a process is needed to unlock it from the cam shaft. The process specifies care and am not sure we can achieve with limited tools.

adanny01:
My friend purchased a Naija used car described above. It was reasonably affordable plus good payment option. However, he knew he had alot of fixes. We didnt scan prior to payment. We were informed by seller that the engine had oil pump problems but was sorted meaning some work was done on the engine.

After scan, i got a long list of codes;
P0011 - VTC system malfunction
C1555 - Power steering
P0171 - Fuel injection system too lean
P2185 - Engine coolant temperature sensor 2 circuit high voltage
P0341 - Camshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected

Please not that there is an intake hose leak that was taped with masking tape. The hose is in budget to replace. The most serious is the VTC matter which search results says the VTC actuator has failed and need to be replaced. Part of the search says the engine will rattle at cold start for 2 secs then quiet. It does exactly that and a little more when downshifting after hard accelration to about 4k rpm. That is serious and too technical for DIY. The P0341might be as a result of out VTC out of time or.just may be the engine time was messed with and incorrect.

C1555 is least of my worries since the PS is working well.

P0171 may be as a result of intake hose leak, we'll see after it is replaced

P2185 i cannot confirm if thermostat is in place but fan is normal on automatic. My guess is its still in place but that will be surprising since am sure a Kazeem messed up the car in the first place.

I did clear the codes and drove for 2 days. The codes all came back with additional ones; P0300, 0301, 0303, 0304 ie cylinder 1,3 and 4 misfire. New plugs in budget plus the intake leak hoping to solve that one. Lest i forget, the engine idle is ok but misses under acceleration.

TPMS is on which i read triggers the VSA and then some power is lost becoming a nuisance. Driving the car, i have noticed once VSA comes on, considerable power is lost. The manual says so and futher says as TPMS is on VSA cannot be turned off.

My friend is almost losing interest in the car not because of the fixes but because he is a rough guy and cant take it easy with a lower suspension than his old 98 accord he demolished and sold off. He jokingly offered a swap with my 03 accord which i jokingly laughed off. Please advice accordingly.

Please How much and where can I get the OBD bluetooth ELM connector.

adanny01:
My friend purchased a Naija used car described above. It was reasonably affordable plus good payment option. However, he knew he had alot of fixes. We didnt scan prior to payment. We were informed by seller that the engine had oil pump problems but was sorted meaning some work was done on the engine.

After scan, i got a long list of codes;
P0011 - VTC system malfunction
C1555 - Power steering
P0171 - Fuel injection system too lean
P2185 - Engine coolant temperature sensor 2 circuit high voltage
P0341 - Camshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected

Please not that there is an intake hose leak that was taped with masking tape. The hose is in budget to replace. The most serious is the VTC matter which search results says the VTC actuator has failed and need to be replaced. Part of the search says the engine will rattle at cold start for 2 secs then quiet. It does exactly that and a little more when downshifting after hard accelration to about 4k rpm. That is serious and too technical for DIY. The P0341might be as a result of out VTC out of time or.just may be the engine time was messed with and incorrect.

C1555 is least of my worries since the PS is working well.

P0171 may be as a result of intake hose leak, we'll see after it is replaced

P2185 i cannot confirm if thermostat is in place but fan is normal on automatic. My guess is its still in place but that will be surprising since am sure a Kazeem messed up the car in the first place.

I did clear the codes and drove for 2 days. The codes all came back with additional ones; P0300, 0301, 0303, 0304 ie cylinder 1,3 and 4 misfire. New plugs in budget plus the intake leak hoping to solve that one. Lest i forget, the engine idle is ok but misses under acceleration.

TPMS is on which i read triggers the VSA and then some power is lost becoming a nuisance. Driving the car, i have noticed once VSA comes on, considerable power is lost. The manual says so and futher says as TPMS is on VSA cannot be turned off.

My friend is almost losing interest in the car not because of the fixes but because he is a rough guy and cant take it easy with a lower suspension than his old 98 accord he demolished and sold off. He jokingly offered a swap with my 03 accord which i jokingly laughed off. Please advice accordingly.

For this I would advise you try cleaning the VTC solenoid and also the VTC filter assembly. Clogging can cause this. I replaced my VTC filter assembly recently not because it was clogged but because the rubber seal was weak and leaked. I have seen someone who had a VTC code because the VTC filter was clogged with dirt.

igbsam:


Please How much and where can I get the OBD bluetooth ELM connector.

Konga is a easy place to buy @3k5

adanny01:


Konga is a easy place to buy @3k5

Oh....Thanks alot. will look it up

adanny01:
Thank u once again GAZZUZZ. From your description of the position of temp sensor i saw 2 loose wires at the bottom right hand side of the radiator. I cant access from to the top but from under, i will try to fix when i can have access to a service pit.

Secondly, the car over heated this afternoon after my inpatient friend pushed the car hard trying to get to a church program in time. At idle i could hear sounds at the cylinder head left side. Am sure either the timing is out or the camshaft has a problem.

How much do you think the whole cylinder head would cost or a complete camshaft with VTC actuator? Changing just the actuator is more complex since compressed air and a process is needed to unlock it from the cam shaft. The process specifies care and am not sure we can achieve with limited tools.

Bro get a Toks engine top and bottom (AKA borale,half and top, skeleton).

GAZZUZZ:


Bro get a Toks engine top and bottom (AKA borale,half and top, skeleton).

Would have loved to buy a complete engine but thats not what we bargained for. What you suggest is like asking us to go back on the deal since we have some balance to pay up on the car. Just this evening the guy called asking for money before the agreed date, we refused because of this problem which if not solved, the car is going back to him for refund or deal renegotiated.

So you see, engine is off the table. If cylinder head is affordable, we will consider. If not, repair is the only option.

.

Piyke:


For this I would advise you try cleaning the VTC solenoid and also the VTC filter assembly. Clogging can cause this. I replaced my VTC filter assembly recently not because it was clogged but because the rubber seal was weak and leaked. I have seen someone who had a VTC code because the VTC filter was clogged with dirt.

As so much as this is a small job (cleaning VTC solenoid and filter) i doubt it will do much especially with the misfire, VTC actuator rattle and over heating. However, i would schedule it as an elimination round of checks. I have read a test method for diagnosing solenoid and watched a video on filter accessing. The stress is that PS pump and belt tensioner has to give way for access to filter.

So, i have made arrangements to work on the car tomorrow.
Works scheduled are;
Intake camshaft replacement (sourced from Apo mech village 6k or less)
VTC solenoid valve function check
VTC filter cleaning
Intake air hose replacement (4k or less)
Temp sensor 2 wiring connection
Air filter replacement
Front engine mount replacement
Front rotor disc replacement
Gear oil change (am not sure of getting genuine DW1 ATF)
Coolant change (Total green coolant)

Unfortunately, i wont do a DIY so a kazeem will do the job. He has insisted on removing the entire engine which i told him i will get someone else if he cant do it my way. We will not be sure of the used VTC actuator funtionality so we will only be sure after fix.

Work in progress.

I later agreed to remove the engine so as to have access to other parts we may not know need replacing. Especially to check the timing chain tensioner which may seriously affect the engine if its so bad.

Alas, i was a good decision since we found 3 of 5 engine mounts bad. The previous work on the engine was obviously a very very bad one. We discovered timing chain tensioner guide bolts were not screwed tight. One was almost falling off. 2 were unscrewed by hand. The chain itself was installed inside out. The VTC actuator nuts were chiseled and the VTC was not locked. All timing marks were off. Metal fillets can be seen on VTC solenoid valve filter screen.

P2185 will be resolved since i have seen the connetor is missing one wire. I have gotten a replacement connector.

We closed out in a stalemate with my Kazeem of a mechanic.

The reason was that of the 5 different intake camshafts that were brought by a parts dealer in Apo mechanic village in Abj, the mechanic rejected all saying they are bad.

What he expects is that the VTC actuator should be as fixed as that of the exhaust camshaft sprocket. All my explanations fell on deaf ears. Note: this is not my usual Kazeem, because my friend whose cousin a mechanic recomended this man as his oga. The oga has a reputaion of getting the best parts for his clients. So he chose not to compromise since we are taking a big risk of getting a functional VTC actuator.

He believes, if he cant get a good camshaft he prefers to rework the old camshaft which i stood my ground against any worked actuator. I took the risk on one to try, he refused saying he is sure that is bad. His reason is that the VTC actuator has a very little movement. I told him he will never get one without any form of movement since the VTC system is design as a variable to move against the exhaust which is a constant and will not have any movement. I told him the VTC actuator is designed to adjust or move in service, he said no.

I have no further way of convincing him otherwise which led to a stalemate. My last instruction is that we must find a non tempered intake camshaft which doesnt move. Its almost imposible knowing what i know about the VTC actuator.

Working the VTC means making the actuator constant which he things solves the problem. I didnt agree knowing the VTC has an advance and retard setting which the VTC solenoid valve controls through the ECU. He cant know that.

adanny01:
We closed out in a stalemate with my Kazeem of a mechanic.

The reason was that of the 5 different intake camshafts that were brought by a parts dealer in Apo mechanic village in Abj, the mechanic rejected all saying they are bad.

What he expects is that the VTC actuator should be as fixed as that of the exhaust camshaft sprocket. All my explanations fell on deaf ears. Note: this is not my usual Kazeem, because my friend whose cousin a mechanic recomended this man as his oga. The oga has a reputaion of getting the best parts for his clients. So he chose not to compromise since we are taking a big risk of getting a functional VTC actuator.

He believes, if he cant get a good camshaft he prefers to rework the old camshaft which i stood my ground against any worked actuator. I took the risk on one to try, he refused saying he is sure that is bad. His reason is that the VTC actuator has a very little movement. I told him he will never get one without any form of movement since the VTC system is design as a variable to move against the exhaust which is a constant and will not have any movement. I told him the VTC actuator is designed to adjust or move in service, he said no.

I have no further way of convincing him otherwise which led to a stalemate. My last instruction is that we must find a non tempered intake camshaft which doesnt move. Its almost imposible knowing what i know about the VTC actuator.

Working the VTC means making the actuator constant which he things solves the problem. I didnt agree knowing the VTC has an advance and retard setting which the VTC solenoid valve controls through the ECU. He cant know that.

Nice one following......

Piyke, true to your words, the VTC filter screen was almost completely blocked with dirt and debri. A full can of carb cleaner was able to clean very well. There were alot of aluminum or metal fillets on the screen. Worst is that i saw alot of fillets and sludge on bottom of the engine oil sump. The sump wasnt suppose to come off until an assistant dropped one bolt to the VTC filter in it.

adanny01:
We closed out in a stalemate with my Kazeem of a mechanic.

The reason was that of the 5 different intake camshafts that were brought by a parts dealer in Apo mechanic village in Abj, the mechanic rejected all saying they are bad.

What he expects is that the VTC actuator should be as fixed as that of the exhaust camshaft sprocket. All my explanations fell on deaf ears. Note: this is not my usual Kazeem, because my friend whose cousin a mechanic recomended this man as his oga. The oga has a reputaion of getting the best parts for his clients. So he chose not to compromise since we are taking a big risk of getting a functional VTC actuator.

He believes, if he cant get a good camshaft he prefers to rework the old camshaft which i stood my ground against any worked actuator. I took the risk on one to try, he refused saying he is sure that is bad. His reason is that the VTC actuator has a very little movement. I told him he will never get one without any form of movement since the VTC system is design as a variable to move against the exhaust which is a constant and will not have any movement. I told him the VTC actuator is designed to adjust or move in service, he said no.

I have no further way of convincing him otherwise which led to a stalemate. My last instruction is that we must find a non tempered intake camshaft which doesnt move. Its almost imposible knowing what i know about the VTC actuator.

Working the VTC means making the actuator constant which he things solves the problem. I didnt agree knowing the VTC has an advance and re.tard setting which the VTC solenoid valve controls through the ECU. He cant know that.

I hope moderator will see that my use of the word in bold wasnt abusive to be sensored in the context. NL is wrong to flag that word abusive changing it to slowpoke which makes no sense of what i am trying to say. Words like i.diot are completely abusive and could be treated as such. Ikenna351 please bring to their notice.

Following

adanny01:
Piyke, true to your words, the VTC filter screen was almost completely blocked with dirt and debri. A full can of carb cleaner was able to clean very well. There were alot of aluminum or metal fillets on the screen. Worst is that i saw alot of fillets and sludge on bottom of the engine oil sump. The sump wasnt suppose to come off until an assistant dropped one bolt to the VTC filter in it.

Seems previous owner really abused the vehicle with what I can see. Would you do a flush?
It appears there was a recall on the 2008's for this specific VTC actuator rattle and many who did the recall said it still came back. Didn't do a detailed search though. Guess you've seen that too. Following closely...

In other thoughts...there's nothing like having a mechanic who listens to advise. Its such a pain when a kazeem junks sound advise

Piyke:


Seems previous owner really abused the vehicle with what I can see. Would you do a flush?
It appears there was a recall on the 2008's for this specific VTC actuator rattle and many who did the recall said it still came back. Didn't do a detailed search though. Guess you've seen that too. Following closely...

In other thoughts...there's nothing like having a mechanic who listens to advise. Its such a pain when a kazeem junks sound advise

I would not want a full engine flush but probably buy the cheap drum type engine oil. Start the engine with it and test then drain out before putting the final one.

I have seen the numerous complain on the 08 VTC actuator. Probably thats why it was hard to get one that isnt worked or looking sound.

I left the mechanic few minutes ago, he was fixing the timing chain. I watched him trying to fix it according the markings so i trust that process.

Less i forget, this morning he was almost fixing one camshaft he got but was obviously a little different. Markings read R40 while the one removed read R44. I called his attention and aborted the use of that one and got another.

Seems no one is interested in helping out.

Updates anyway.

The engine was started around 8.30pm yesterday. I and my friend had to put our hands to work before it was finished. Since the ECU was disconnected for more than a day, it would have reset but the check engine was on. I was worried until i plugged my ELM OBD II device and scanned. I got a P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input. I went to the connector on the trottle body and made sure it connected well. I cleared the code and it didnt come back, i was happy there was no new CEL on the car for the first time. Minutes later, the light came on with P0507 Honda - Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected. That was ok since the ECU is yet to relearn idle settings.

I made a heart breaking discovery in the trunk of the car. 3 pieces of sleeve bearings lay under the spare. Its now obvious another work was carried out on the crank shaft. That explains the engine sound we still have that is half as loud as before and with a shorter duration but very audible at 3k rpm and above. Its obvious we have another job coming which explains why we had metal fillets in the VTC oil filter, solenoid and the oil sump. That means our sleeve bearings are scraping away. We have to get it out ASAP before we lose the crack shaft.

I got a code when i got home P1009 Honda - Variable Valve Timing Control Advance Malfunction. I was encauraged knowing that the re.tard wasnt malfunctioning and the VTC is working atleast half way. I cleared and it never came back.

Lastly, each time the engine is started from cold, it registers misfire codes for cylinder 3 and 4. I didnt get the right plugs or something close so i didnt change as planned but postponed to another day. May be that will stop once new plugs are installed. One last thing, valve adjustment isnt so quiet like i would expect. Am not sure what the machanic did with it for the short time i went to eat and come back, he was already puting the engine back.

adanny01:
Seems no one is interested in helping out.

Updates anyway.

The engine was started around 8.30pm yesterday. I and my friend had to put our hands to work before it was finished. Since the ECU was disconnected for more than a day, it would have reset but the check engine was on. I was worried until i plugged my ELM OBD II device and scanned. I got a P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input. I went to the connector on the trottle body and made sure it connected well. I cleared the code and it didnt come back, i was happy there was no new CEL on the car for the first time. Minutes later, the light came on with P0507 Honda - Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected. That was ok since the ECU is yet to relearn idle settings.

I made a heart breaking discovery in the trunk of the car. 3 pieces of sleeve bearings lay under the spare. Its now obvious another work was carried out on the crank shaft. That explains the engine sound we now have that is half as loud as before and with a shorter duration but more audible at 3k rpm and above. Its obvious we have another job coming which explains why we had metal fillets in the VTC oil filter, solenoid and the oil sump. That means our sleeve bearings are scraping away. We have to get it out ASAP before we lose the crack shaft.

I got a code when i got home P1009 Honda - Variable Valve Timing Control Advance Malfunction. I was encauraged knowing that the re.tard wasnt malfunctioning and the VTC is working atleast half way. I cleared and it never came back.

Lastly, each time the engine is started from cold, it registers misfire codes for cylinder 3 and 4. I didnt get the right plugs or something close so i didnt change as planned but postponed to another day. May be that will stop once new plugs are installed. One last thing, valve adjustment isnt so quiet like i would expect. Am not sure what thr machanic did with it for the short time i went to eatand come back, he was already puting the engine back.

Weldone

Please consider my earlier comment.

GAZZUZZ:


Weldone

Please consider my earlier comment.

Thank you.

Like i said before, its beyond budget. Dealers here say it was around 200k before Naira was devalued but now 300k plus or minus. Besides how am i sure the supposedly new engine wont be a worst case scenario. The engine is promising since it doesnt smoke or consume oil.

Its been long since i wrote an update.

We are at a point where we are all lost including the mechanic. I feel like i let my friend down.

The car was with a mechanic since Friday till yesterday tuesday. In the period the engine came off the engine bay twice and the engine was openned thrice.

Let me review the chain of faults from begining. 1st problem was Camshaft noise at cold start. It was changed then a new sound that was mildly there became louder. Crankshaft noise at 2700rpm and above.

It took 2days of serching to get an unworn crankshaft in Abuja. The old crankshaft was guaged and the new one too. The new one had all main bearings journals same guage and cylinder journals also same. The old one had cylinder journal 1, 3 and 4 less than 2.

New crankshaft was installed but after timing was set and everything was ready to return to engine bay, one last engine free rotation was ran but it failed. The process went backwards head cylinder removed this time. Alot of carbon was cleared. After coupling and installing. The engine started at first kick with a smooth run devoid of noise from either the crankshaft or camshaft. However, there was a new tapping sound as if 2 rotating parts that are not suppose to meet are touching each other. The sound is constant from idle to the highest rpm you can get. The sound is constant in intensity but increase in frequency directly proportional to rpm. Check engine light was misfire P0303 and P0304, cylinder 3 and 4.

For the misfire, i felt it was loss of compression in those cylinders due to exhaust valve leak as a result of carbon build up. Or, the carbon build up in one valve may have contributed in the valve not closing all the way making contact with piston.

From here i left for work till yesterday evening. They claim to have dropped engine again, attempted to change gasket but later didnt and grounded valves. We were happy after start with no sound at idle, after a drive around the sound came back fully.

We are now confused and mechanic is exhausted.

adanny01:
Its been long since i wrote an update.

We are at a point where we are all lost including the mechanic. I feel like i let my friend down.

The car was with a mechanic since Friday till yesterday tuesday. In the period the engine came off the engine bay twice and the engine was openned thrice.

Let me review the chain of faults from begining. 1st problem was Camshaft noise at cold start. It was changed then a new sound that was mildly there became louder. Crankshaft noise at 2700rpm and above.

It took 2days of serching to get an unworn crankshaft in Abuja. The old crankshaft was guaged and the new one too. The new one had all main bearings journals same guage and cylinder journals also same. The old one had cylinder journal 1, 3 and 4 less than 2.

New crankshaft was installed but after timing was set and everything was ready to return to engine bay, one last engine free rotation was ran but it failed. The process went backwards head cylinder removed this time. Alot of carbon was cleared. After coupling and installing. The engine started at first kick with a smooth run devoid of noise from either the crankshaft or camshaft. However, there was a new tapping sound as if 2 rotating parts that are not suppose to meet are touching each other. The sound is constant from idle to the highest rpm you can get. The sound is constant in intensity but increase in frequency directly proportional to rpm. Check engine light was misfire P0303 and P0304, cylinder 3 and 4.

For the misfire, i felt it was loss of compression in those cylinders due to exhaust valve leak as a result of carbon build up. Or, the carbon build up in one valve may have contributed in the valve not closing all the way making contact with piston.

From here i left for work till yesterday evening. They claim to have dropped engine again, attempted to change gasket but later didnt and grounded valves. We were happy after start with no sound at idle, after a drive around the sound came back fully.

We are now confused and mechanic is exhausted.

Can you pin-point where this sound is coming from? You may need a car stethoscope to this or improvise with a piece of tubing (the type you use for putting petrol in a gas tank); one end near your ear while the other end is moved round the engine until you get where the noise is loudest.
From what you've described (sound increasing with RPM), try to rule out a worn bearing eg in the power steering pump or any of those parts connected to the serpentine belt.
The engine misfire may be unconnected to the noise.

Piyke:


Can you pin-point where this sound is coming from? You may need a car stethoscope to this or improvise with a piece of tubing (the type you use for putting petrol in a gas tank); one end near your ear while the other end is moved round the engine until you get where the noise is loudest.
From what you've described (sound increasing with RPM), try to rule out a worn bearing eg in the power steering pump or any of those parts connected to the serpentine belt.
The engine misfire may be unconnected to the noise.

I cant pin point where the sound is coming from. I saw a mention of the stethoscope but thought i cant access it. The only idea i have is that the sound seems to eminate from the centre of the engine. The location seems to be at the head cylinder gasket positon around cylinder 3. The car revs very smooth except for just that single sound. Something tells me a valve is making contact with the piston and it seem to be getting worst. One coincidence is that after the engine started this last time, i got P0303 meaning there is a problem in that cylinder. One of the causes of misfire is loss of compression. A mistimed valve will cause loss of compression to that cylinder and can make contact with the piston if there is something wrong.

I have ruled out worn bearing since this one is constant while bearing is not. Power steering is far from it as it whines not repeated tapping. Other ones on the serpenting belt will most likely rattle.

My friend made an appointment with Cardoctor. However, the car is 200km from abj, i hope it will take me there.

I tried to upload the sound i recorded but it wont upload.

The file was bigger than 250kb.

I made a shorter recording as attached. I am sure the top cylinder is quiet likewise the crankshaft area.

adanny01:
The file was bigger than 250kb.

I made a shorter recording as attached. I am sure the top cylinder is quiet likewise the crankshaft area.

sound is really bad. This may end up a circus, with u getting back to the point u will buy a new engine. My neighbor's 07 accord sounds exactly like that. The guy has no form of maintenance for the ride.

If the bearings were mismatched it could be a problem, if the bearings were damaged on some cylinders and those were the only ones replaced it is better to replace all so they are worn evenly.That will take care of possibility of metal shavings in the near future. on top there is a video for valve adjustment the specs might not be what your mechanic is used to so he has to use the one written on the inside of the hood it has the spark plug spec and gap too if the valves are good and the cam lobes are right there should be no tapping.

Multiple misfire might be coil wires installed on wrong coil/cylinder it can happen


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7wI4EtZSaA

Using a wrong crankshaft could also cause same issues.

Check that they are same part number.


I'm sure it's not the valves touching the pistons.