We announce to you, the creation of a thread tailored towards getting unfettered and unbiased support/answer to your various automotive inquiries.

This thread will allow you to asks various automotive questions. We will be theoretical as much as we can, to enhance your understanding through knowledge of basic principles.

We will try to make explanations as analytical and scientific as possible rather than feed you with only myths, as well as use our practical experience to assist you. 

It promises to be very interactive, not just for problem solving but for learning. Enthusiasts, students and amateurs will find here an environment to stay.


On this thread, solution providers will be limited to just 2 people, though we will welcome positive contributions from other experts. This is to ensure that this place is organized and not to end up confusing the person that is seeking support. 

Wherever we can not be of help, we will refer you to other experts in the field. 


This thread is not to promote our services but basically to assist and enhance positive knowledge and experience of everyone here. 


We encourage and emphasize courtesy and regard for others on this thread so that people looking for help will not end up being insulted or embarrassed.

Only productive arguments would be welcomed.


Also watch out for other threads that we will create outside this one but with "Automobile help desk" signature. 


Our faculties will be:

1. Joseph — 08066643532

2. Richard — 08030420562 


Feel free to relate with any of us. 


To key us in, we will be feeding you with articles and case studies in no distant time.

We will keep doing this to keep this thread active. 


Best regards,

Automobile Help Desk.

TRYGO:

We announce to you, the creation of a thread tailored towards getting unfettered and unbiased support/answer to your various automotive inquiries.

This thread will allow you to asks various automotive questions. We will be theoretical as much as we can, to enhance your understanding through knowledge of basic principles.

We will try to make explanations as analytical and scientific as possible rather than feed you with only myths, as well as use our practical experience to assist you. 

It promises to be very interactive, not just for problem solving but for learning. Enthusiasts, students and amateurs will find here an environment to stay.


On this thread, solution providers will be limited to just 2 people, though we will welcome positive contributions from other experts. This is to ensure that this place is organized and not to end up confusing the person that is seeking support. 

Wherever we can not be of help, we will refer you to other experts in the field. 


This thread is not to promote our services but basically to assist and enhance positive knowledge and experience of everyone here. 


We encourage and emphasize courtesy and regard for others on this thread so that people looking for help will not end up being insulted or embarrassed.

Only productive arguments would be welcomed.


Also watch out for other threads that we will create outside this one but with "Automobile help desk" signature. 


Our faculties will be:

1. Joseph — 08066643532

2. Richard — 08030420562 


Feel free to relate with any of us. 


To key us in, we will be feeding you with articles and case studies in no distant time.

We will keep doing this to keep this thread active. 


Best regards,

Automobile Help Desk. 

More grease to your elbows

AutoElectNG:


More grease to your elbows

You are welcome!

This is a brilliant initiative.
However, there's no aircomditioner for this una desk stand. I'm sweating while making this complaint.

My question is this, when I start my car in the morning, cold start & go to the back of the car; I hear some sound in the exhaust which normalises after a few seconds. This has been consistent for a while. No check engine light.

I hear advices about coolant, distilled water, ordinary water. Is any better than the other? Which is the best?

1. The noise you maybe hearing could be as a result of your exhaust system, colliding with the under body of the car.

Have that checked by a panel beater to see what they come up with.

2. Coolant is the preferred choice.
Coolant already has the right proportions of additives that prevents corrosion in your car's cooling systems.

Using ordinary water, as is common in this part of the world, would only cause you lots of issues in the long run.

Corrosion problems, leading to overheating, and failure of other cooling systems components (radiator clogging; worn water pump impellers, etc).

Instead of using ordinary water, its best to use distilled water, as almost 90% of hard water constituents have being taken care of.


I don't think you would want what is displayed in the picture below in tour radiator?

Hope this Anders your questions?




Regards,
Joseph
0806643532(call/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng
For: Automobile help desk

bravolad:
This is a brilliant initiative.
However, there's no aircomditioner for this una desk stand. I'm sweating while making this complaint.

My question is this, when I start my car in the morning, cold start & go to the back of the car; I hear some sound in the exhaust which normalises after a few seconds. This has been consistent for a while. No check engine light.

@Bravolad Thanks for your good will.
You have a price for throwing the first question of the thread.

I don't know the kind of car that you drive but here are likely causes:

- Heat shield rattle
- Turbo waste gate rattle (for turbo)
- Exhaust flap rattle (for designs that use a flap to regulate exhaust pressure. It helps build up engine heat at cold start and to regulate exhaust velocity)
- loose bolts at hangers and where pipes are joined
- Missing exhaust gasket
- Broken CATCON
- Broken exhaust resonator or muffler

All these are possibilities but the first four occur more.

Heat expansion helps to eliminate the noise after some warm up due to metals coming in contact as a result of vibration, example exhaust and the heat shield.

Also note that resonance at initial high idle speed can cause vibration of loosed exhaust components that can go away as idle speed come down.

Regards,
EngRichie.
08030420562
For: Automobile help desk

.

EngRichie:


@Bravolad Thanks for your good will.
You have a price for throwing the first question of the thread.

I don't know the kind of car that you drive but here are likely causes:

- Heat shield rattle
- Turbo waste gate rattle (for turbo)
- Exhaust flap rattle (for designs that use a flap to regulate exhaust pressure. It helps build up engine heat at cold start and to regulate exhaust velocity)
- loose bolts at hangers and where pipes are joined
- Missing exhaust gasket
- Broken CATCON
- Broken exhaust resonator or muffler

All these are possibilities but the first four occur more.

Heat expansion helps to eliminate the noise after some warm up due to metals coming in contact as a result of vibration, example exhaust and the heat shield.

Also note that resonance at initial high idle speed can cause vibration of loosed exhaust components that can go away as idle speed come down.

Regards,
EngRichie.
08030420562
For: Automobile help desk

Car is 2011 Toyota Camry. Thanks @Engrichie & @Trygo.

bravolad:


Car is 2011 Toyota Camry. Thanks @Engrichie & @Trygo.

You are welcomed.

Some people claim that they get better performance after removing catalytic converter. Is it true?

ray48:
Some people claim that they get better performance after removing catalytic converter. Is it true?

There are three major important things when we talk about exhaust performance

- Exhaust gas velocity
- Exhaust flow
- Exhaust temperature

To answer your question, yes but depending on the particular car, because on some cars, you loose power when you do that. In my less busy hour, I will explain how removing CATCON can give you better engine performance.

EngRichie
08030420562
For: Automobile Help Desk.

The claim of better performance is true with some vehicles.

Before I begin, this performance increase is mostly noticeable when the catalytic converter already has some degree of blockage. If you have a high flow catalytic converter that is still very okay, you may not notice any performance increase.

Exhaust pressure creates what is called negative pressure waves that helps in exhaust fumes scavenging (during intake and exhaust valve overlap). This scavenging effect is very beneficial to the engine as the negative pressure created helps to pull the next intake charge (air and fuel mixture) into the combustion chamber. This can be seen as a mild turbo effect. This increases the power output of the engine.

Imagine being close to the back of a speeding car, you will feel like the car is sucking you to itself and the more the speed if the car, the more the effect you will feel. That is how high exhaust gas velocity helps to pull remaining exhaust fumes out of the cylinder

Secondly, the more restrictions that you take off from the exhaust path, the less work the piston would have to do to push exhaust gasses out thereby increasing power and fuel efficiency.

Having a restrictive catalytic converter will reduce the exhaust velocity and reduce performance.

Note that depending on exhaust design , gutting of catalytic converter can have a negative effect on some engines. For example, if you have a small capacity engine (smaller exhaust flow) with a large catalytic converter chamber, you are going to generate a high turbulence chamber that will reduce exhaust velocity thereby reducing its scavenging ability and hence poor performance. If the chamber is big enough compared to the engine size, you may even create an over-scavenging situation that will lead to very poor fuel economy as you will create a big expansion chamber that will increase exhaust flow (volume), thereby sucking out some intake charge meant for the next cycle combustion along with the exhaust fume.

There are lots more to this that I can explain if you ask further questions, for instance, reaching a compromise of exhaust velocity and exhaust flow(volume), intake/exhaust tuning, scavenging in detail and so on....

To properly delete your catalyst converter;
- Install a spacer in the post-Cat oxygen sensor position. This would trick the ECU into thinking that there is a catalytic converter there working efficiently because the sensor would be exposed to less exhaust fumes. This will avoid fuel trim correction too, for models that use post-cat oxygen sensor to adjust fuel trim.

- Install a straight pipe in place of the catalytic converter pot to reduce noise and maintain a good exhaust velocity and exhaust flow.

Note that deleting the catalyst has harmful effects on health and environment because of excessive release of harmful combustion by-product into the atmosphere.

Regards,
EngRichie
For: Automobile Help Desk.

Are you having drivability issues with every non stock fuel pump, these are factors that you should look into when buying one.

1. Flow (volume)
2. Pressure
3. Voltage.

Sometimes, defective or weak fuel pumps are passed as okay simply because technician feels that the pressure is okay. As engine load/horse power demand increases, there is need for more volume of fuel. Hence, a pump that appears to have sufficient pressure may not be able to meet up with volume demand.
Ensure that the new pump meets the pressure and volume demand of the car.

Note that some pumps are volume rated at zero line pressure. When fitted into the car,
restrictions will be introduced and volume will drop.
A pump rated at 0.5 gallons per minute might become 0.4 gallons per minute. The best is to check out for pumps that has ratings like 0.5 gallons per minute at 40 psi.

The voltage at which the pressure and volume is rated is also important. Some pumps are rated at 13.5V. At periods that the alternator cannot meet up, the pressure and volume will drop. Therefore, it is better to get a pump whose pressure and volume are rated at 12 volts.

Note that in some systems, manifold vacuum is used to regulate the pressure in order to maintain same effective pressure (at the injectors). In some return less fuel supply systems, pulse width modulated power is supplied to the fuel pump to vary its output (some people get it wrong here by connecting directly to battery voltage to fix fuel pump power supply problem).

EngRichie
Automobile Help Desk
08030420562

This is a guide to your car battery state of charge.
Note that this is for a battery without surface charge. It has been left to seat for at least 3 hours.

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/tutorials-quick-references/37017-battery-state-charge-chart.html#/topics/37017

please elaborate on 20w 50 mobil xhp most of us are using in nigeria. is it a good oil, when should it be used

opomulero:
please elaborate on 20w 50 mobil xhp most of us are using in nigeria. is it a good oil, when should it be used

I am very sorry for not responding to this post. I have been away for a long time.

Let me assume that I know where your question is heading. It is not a good oil for recent engines.
Use it only when you have exhausted every available less viscous oil and you still need to keep the car running with that engine at that time, especially when the engine is sludged and/or leaks oil.

Regards.

.