Modern vehicles these days are even susceptible to some few microns of impurities (or particulate matters), in especially their hydraulic systems.

Here I mean, fluids flow. Any little constrictions on the path of flow of fluids, would trigger a service soon(for Nissans), or a check engine lights(for Toyotas, fords, and other brands).

Such constrictions in the flow path of lubrication of critical engine components like camshafts, timing chains, crankshaft, etc, could cause severe engine damage.

In this piece of writeup this morning, I'd be taking us through a Ford explorer 2009, that had some mechanical issues. We'd use this vehicle as a case study, of what possibly went wrong, and how you could fix such problems, if you encounter one.



CASE STUDY
Vehicle was a Ford explorer 2009; V6(4.0L).

COMPLAINTS:
1. rattling noises on startups
2. vehicle losses power, and stalls only when the display shows "low oil pressure".
3. the SD navigation system does not work.

HISTORY
1.Car was a Nigerian used, bought from a close relative, who had relocated to the states.
2.Apparently, the car was not properly maintained.
3.Wrong viscosity engine oils was being used to service the engine.
4.That resulted into numerous problems, that at the end, owner took the car to a garage to have the problems sorted out.
5. At the end, they were told the oil pump needed to be replaced, and the go-ahead was granted from the client.
After the " fix", the vehicle was worse than they took it in to the repair facility.


THE FIX!?
1. Vehicle was drive. down to the shop, and inspected.
My observations:
-rattling noise at startup confirmed
-when engine is revved to about 3000rpm, the rattle becomes significant.
-engine oil was thick! wrong viscosity oil.
Client said they have being using 20W50(terrible).

2. Hooked up a scantool, and retrieved this code.

P0012: Intake camshaft position timing over retarded bank 1.
Retrieving this code, I already know where the source if the rattle noise was coming from.

In my head, what could possibly cause this code to come on were any or all if the following:
a) unsynchronized timing
b) low oil pressure would cause the camshaft position to be affected.
c) oil flow was being restricted in the valve train galleries, or the VCT(variable camshaft timing).
d) open or a short circuit in the VCT
e) damaged camshaft position sensor
f) damaged VCT phaser.
.
.
.
.
.n.....

From the list if possible causes of this rattle problem, and coupled with the history of the vehicle (previous repair shop),
3. I decided to take a look at the VCT on both banks.

On both banks, I did test for, 1) power feed to the solenoid itself, and for grounds using a digital voltmeter.

This was achieved with the connectors attached to the actuators disconnected, and the ignition switch turned to ON position.

All tests passed.

4. Next step was to remove all the four actuators from the various banks, and apply 12V for some second on them to see if they were actually clicking (you should hear clicking sounds if they are OK)

That test also passed OK.
Be careful when applying the 12V. If prolonged, you'd end up burning the coil in it.

5. Because of the degree of clogging on the actuators, I had to use a solvent (petrol), to wash off some of the oxidised engine oil.
That didn't give a final clean though.
I decided to use a thin of carb/injector cleaner, to flush through the orifices and screens of the actuators to make them clean, and performed optimally.

6. Do ensure the actuators are dry; and have a little bit of clean engine oil applied on them be assembling back on the cylinders.

7. Cleared the codes first, and started the car.
Rate stopped, but I got an oxygen sensor code pop up.
That was sorted out as an oxygen sensor connector that was disconnected, maybe unintentionally, from the previous repair facility.

Now how do we fix the "low oil pressure problem" that was showing on the dashboard?
We considered all options as follows:
1. if I rebuild this engine, the chances of success with the state it is now, would be 10%.
That would put my reputation at stake here.
Oil pump has being replaced, timing chain at the previous shop already, and you still ha e knocking noises.

**I would have chosen to overhaul that engine, but I was not sure if I could get conrod and crankshaft bearings, rings and all that from my parts supplier as at then.

2. Get a used engine from the market, run in the recommended Castro engine oil, and job is done.
We opted for the later options, because of the risks weren't that much as the former.
Though the engine was very expensive.
These engines are shared in other Ford applications like ford edge, and others.

Immediately the engine was replaced, the "low oil pressure problem", ceased!







Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng

PS:
1.Do not outrightly replace sensors when you have sensor related problems.
Try testing then, and if possible, if they are prone to dirt's, clean them before you condemn a working sensor.

2. The LOW OIL PRESSURE PROBLEM on especially Ford vehicles most of the tines are related to low oil pressure related.
When you have severely worn engine rings, and bearings, the pressure of oil supplied to vital components in the valve train, would reduce, leading to wear, and knocking noises.

These are safety mechanisms put in place by Ford motors to protect your engine from engine damage.

3. You can use other trusted and reputable companies selling synthetic engine oils recommended for your ford!
Using Castro only, to me, is a marketing gimmick by Ford, and Castro(pls my opinion here).

Ford explorer 2009. Removing the VCTs

The variable camshaft sensors.
Those are the sensors (black and white colour), where my hand is pointed towards.
You could also see the timing chain being exposed.

Sensors on display.
These sensors are equivalent to what you have on Hondas (VTEC); Toyotas (VVTi), BMW's (as VANUS).
They are very sensitive to impurities fro. oil usage.

Instrument cluster display

Engine displayed

Instrument cluster display

Greetings dude. I've got a 2007 Camry hybrid. It has that rattling noise or would I call it vibrating noise when started in the morning. However, as the day progresses, it's becomes very minimal almost to the point of being insignificant.

Another issue is that it jerks violently when put in reverse gear on its first start. It also reduces or disappears as the day progresses. Other gears are perfectly fine.

It's a hybrid so I'm wondering if the example you related here could be the probable cause of it. It has the abs warning, check engine light and master warning light displayed too. Then in the instrument display panel, it has "Check VSC system" and " Check Hybrid System".

The car occasionally stalls while driving as well. What do you think?

Thanks.