Experts in the forum, please help. I have a Hyundai Accent, 2014 and I have been having a rough time with it in the past few weeks. I earlier had problem with the plugs and replaced them. After that, the vehicle experienced lose of power and low rpm. I had to replace the fuel pump as directed by the mechanic and the car gained some power but not as sharp as it used to be. About a week later, the car started having issues starting up, the car was scanned and found crankshab sensor needs replacement. After replacing it, the vehicle starts really fine but still experiencing lose of power, sluggish movement/acceleration plus drop of rpm in idle state.

Note: the car isn't vibrating

Please help.

Have you tried replacing the spark plugs? Check also the fuel pressure.

istephen:
Have you tried replacing the spark plugs? Check also the fuel pressure.

I actually replaced the spark plugs about two weeks ago.

Was the spark plug replaced with an OEM one and with proper gapping?
Same with the fuel pump.
Check the pressure of the pump to see if it pumps at the recommend PSI.
Clear any pending error code and rescan the car.
Gazzuzz, your expertise on the Korean brand might be needed here.

jceesquare:
Was the spark plug replaced with an OEM one and with proper gapping?
Same with the fuel pump.
Check the pressure of the pump to see if it pumps at the recommend PSI.
Clear any pending error code and rescan the car.
Gazzuzz, your expertise on the Korean brand might be needed here.

Thank you very much. I can not guarantee that the spark plugs were replaced with the original OEM but they seem to work fine. Same goes for the fuel pump but I cannot say because I'm a novice in this area.

Boldtrust:


Thank you very much. I can not guarantee that the spark plugs were replaced with the original OEM but they seem to work fine. Same goes for the fuel pump but I cannot say because I'm a novice in this area.

If the spark plugs are not the right spec for your engine or is not properly gapped, you'll definitely have power issues on the car. It might look fine, sound fine to a novice, but trust me you'll never have a good combustion with that.
Same thing goes to the fuel pump. If the PSI is not up to the manufacturer spec, you'll also experience loose of power in high demand when you kick down.
Check the owners/repair manual for the right spec.
I'd also suggest you scan the car.

jceesquare:

If the spark plugs are not the right spec for your engine or is not properly gapped, you'll definitely have power issues on the car. It might look fine, sound fine to a novice, but trust me you'll never have a good combustion with that.
Same thing goes to the fuel pump. If the PSI is not up to the manufacturer spec, you'll also experience loose of power in high demand when you kick down.
Check the owners/repair manual for the right spec.
I'd also suggest you scan the car.

Thanks for the response. The car was scanned a two days ago. There was no reported issue with the plugs or fuel pump though. I even kept insisting on the pump by the mechanic and the electrician said no. However, I can still ask for a recheck to be sure. I'm thinking the air or fuel filter can be part of the problem. What do you think?

Boldtrust:
Experts in the forum, please help. I have a Hyundai Accent, 2014 and I have been having a rough time with it in the past few weeks. I earlier had problem with the plugs and replaced them. After that, the vehicle experienced lose of power and low rpm. I had to replace the fuel pump as directed by the mechanic and the car gained some power but not as sharp as it used to be. About a week later, the car started having issues starting up, the car was scanned and found crankshab sensor needs replacement. After replacing it, the vehicle starts really fine but still experiencing lose of power, sluggish movement/acceleration plus drop of rpm in idle state.

Note: the car isn't vibrating

Please help.

I'm only giving suggestions based on the bolded.
If the car did not put up fault codes when scanned, then your mechanic that has the vehicle with him should be able to carry out some test to find out why you're having loose of power.
Lemme break it down in best possible way (for the record I'm a DIY but this tips might help).

You did not specify when you experience the power issues. Is it when accelerating from a dead stop, or when overtaking.
Second you did not state if the car has a manual or automatic transmission.
But let's start with the cause of the power loose as stated by you. If you changed the spark plug and fuel pump before the car starts misbehaving, it's likely you have the wrong parts installed. I'd suggest your mechanic should check the pressure the pump is pumping out fuel with a pressure gauge (also you need to state if you bought just the pump or the complete housing). The filters might be clogged up and that would affect the smooth operation of the pump especially when demand is high from the engine.
Second your mechanic needs to check if the spark plugs are well gapped. If the plugs are not well gapped, the engine might not vibrate while idling, but would definitely not function properly. He can check the gap on the spark plug with a gauge measurement (looks like a coin with dimensions).
With the idle issues, the idle control system or possibly throttle position sensor might have been tampered with (that should put up a code).
For the air filter, you can physically examine that yourself before changing. If it's clogged up you should be having black smoke coming out the exhaust pipe.
All that should turn up your check sign.

jceesquare:

I'm only giving suggestions based on the bolded.
If the car did not put up fault codes when scanned, then your mechanic that has the vehicle with him should be able to carry out some test to find out why you're having loose of power.
Lemme break it down in best possible way (for the record I'm a DIY but this tips might help).

You did not specify when you experience the power issues. Is it when accelerating from a dead stop, or when overtaking.
Second you did not state if the car has a manual or automatic transmission.
But let's start with the cause of the power loose as stated by you. If you changed the spark plug and fuel pump before the car starts misbehaving, it's likely you have the wrong parts installed. I'd suggest your mechanic should check the pressure the pump is pumping out fuel with a pressure gauge (also you need to state if you bought just the pump or the complete housing). The filters might be clogged up and that would affect the smooth operation of the pump especially when demand is high from the engine.
Second your mechanic needs to check if the spark plugs are well gapped. If the plugs are not well gapped, the engine might not vibrate while idling, but would definitely not function properly. He can check the gap on the spark plug with a gauge measurement (looks like a coin with dimensions).
With the idle issues, the idle control system or possibly throttle position sensor might have been tampered with (that should put up a code).
For the air filter, you can physically examine that yourself before changing. If it's clogged up you should be having black smoke coming out the exhaust pipe.
All that should turn up your check sign.

Very comprehensive. Thank you.

The power loss is both when taking off and when overtaking. The more I press the acceleration pedal, the more I notice it.

The car is automatic.

As for the plugs, I'll ask the mechanic to check and I'll get the car scanned tomorrow. Will the poor plugs performance show up on the scan? Or does the mechanic have to check this one by taking manual measurement?

I only bought the fuel pump.

Boldtrust:


Very comprehensive. Thank you.

The power loss is both when taking off and when overtaking. The more I press the acceleration pedal, the more I notice it.

The car is automatic.

As for the plugs, I'll ask the mechanic to check and I'll get the car scanned tomorrow. Will the poor plugs performance show up on the scan? Or does the mechanic have to check this one by taking manual measurement?

I only bought the fuel pump.

A bad plug would give a misfire code (depending on how bad it is). I think I can guess what the problem is but try this simple DIY check.
Try a gradual accreditation and see if the car picks fine without being too hard on the pedal.
If it does without noticeable loose of power, slow down to let's say 50km/h then slam on the gas pedal for the gear to kick down. If the car jerks or pulls back, then you might be looking at a pump/fuel supply related issues. (Please let this test be done on clean stretch of road free from traffic)
Don't be too quick to condemn the pump, but have the fuel line inspected, all filters cleaned, and (possibly injectors cleaned depending on how dirty the filters are).
If the pump itself is bad, I'll recommend you get a complete pump assembly . Those pumps have inbuilt filters in that plastic housing that would mess the pump if it's clogged up.
If everything looks clean and shinny, then have your mechanic hookup a pressure gauge to the fuel system. I can guarantee you that engine is not getting enough fuel when the demand is high.
But hey, follow your mechanic's diagnosis if he's good.

As an after thought, listen to the sound of the engine while doing those acceleration test.
If the engine sounds as if it's struggling or dying, chances are high that it's getting starved of fuel.
A physical inspection of the tip of the plug would say if you're having a lean mixture as a result of having the engine starved of fuel.
You can also roll down the window to perceive the fume coming out of the engine (that might be difficult though). If it's a lean or rich mixture you will know from the gas that comes out of the tail pipe.
All the best sir.

jceesquare:

A bad plug would give a misfire code (depending on how bad it is). I think I can guess what the problem is but try this simple DIY check.
Try a gradual accreditation and see if the car picks fine without being too hard on the pedal.
If it does without noticeable loose of power, slow down to let's say 50km/h then slam on the gas pedal for the gear to kick down. If the car jerks or pulls back, then you might be looking at a pump/fuel supply related issues. (Please let this test be done on clean stretch of road free from traffic)
Don't be too quick to condemn the pump, but have the fuel line inspected, all filters cleaned, and (possibly injectors cleaned depending on how dirty the filters are).
If the pump itself is bad, I'll recommend you get a complete pump assembly . Those pumps have inbuilt filters in that plastic housing that would mess the pump if it's clogged up.
If everything looks clean and shinny, then have your mechanic hookup a pressure gauge to the fuel system. I can guarantee you that engine is not getting enough fuel when the demand is high.
But hey, follow your mechanic's diagnosis if he's good.

Thank you. I'll definitely carry out the exercise today

jceesquare:
As an after thought, listen to the sound of the engine while doing those acceleration test.
If the engine sounds as if it's struggling or dying, chances are high that it's getting starved of fuel.
A physical inspection of the tip of the plug would say if you're having a lean mixture as a result of having the engine starved of fuel.
You can also roll down the window to perceive the fume coming out of the engine (that might be difficult though). If it's a lean or rich mixture you will know from the gas that comes out of the tail pipe.
All the best sir.

I've noticed this for a while now. I think ever since I changed the plugs. The smell of the fume is different from it used to be. Something like a gasoline rich smell.

Boldtrust:


I've noticed this for a while now. I think ever since I changed the plugs. The smell of the fume is different from it used to be. Something like a gasoline rich smell.

A gasoline rich smell means that fuel is not burning out which is very bad for the engine and can cause a lot of damage from a clogged catalyst, to carbon buildup in the engine. If you're having a rich mixture and you don't have the check sign on your dash then something is wrong. Touch the tip of the exhaust pipe to see if it has black sooth on it.
If the fuel is not burning well, then a comprehensive check needs to be done on the ignition system which covers the spark plugs and other components there.
You would need to tune your ears to listen to the engine while you drive, and ask someone to observe the exhaust from behind the car for black smoke.
Engine sounds, drive feel, and the the fume coming out of the exhaust pipe are some of the several ways to tell what's wrong with the car apart from scanning.

.

What a good discussion here. It helps.

Just that I have similar and possibly more terrible challenges.

My accent 2013 (automatic) stalls on gear 2 and beyond at the foot of a hill. So it doesn't climb or accelerate well. It gets noisy when I put my foot down and continues to stall. So I use the gear manually, then I get better performance.

I've once tried working on “A” timing over advanced but the code still persists.

I've changed the pump twice and plugs as well twice... The pump is dead again.

I also noticed the air filter is dirty.

I need suggestions on long-lasting solutions.

These OEM parts, where to buy them self? I stay in Abuja.

I remember another issue, it really takes hard work for the gear to count backward i.e. 4-3-2-1. That seems to contribute to the stalling.

I scanned and The result of the scanning says:
1. P0625 - alternator
2. “A” Over advance timing camshaft blah blah...

The car is gathering dust at the moment in my compound.