In my sewing support group on whatsapp, I was teaching my students on pattern drafting of a trouser

I was explaining certain details to consider while drafting a trouser

After the class, there was lots of questions which I provided answers to the best of my knowledge

Questions such as:

Do you add allowance to the front pattern piece of the trouser?

My answer was no, I dont add any allowance to the front pattern piece, I cut exactly the measurements, all allowances are added to the back pattern piece

If you are observant enough you see the back pattern piece is always bigger than the front pattern piece

Sir, how do you get your crotch measurements?

The crotch measurement can be gotten in several ways, you can use:

The inner seam measurement of the client and subtract from the total length. Example: Inseam length 31, total length 42, crotch length =42-31=11.

You can also use the hip measurement divided by 4,

But personally I have always used my hip measurement divided by 4, a times I add 1 inch, atimes i don't


Why? Because some clients are unique and they wear their trousers on their stomach instead of waist, so due to that the crotch length must be long

Also some female clients loves thier trousers to be high waist

So you must use your head as a tailor to make the necessary allowance for the crotch when drafting the pattern.

Sir how do you get the knee length?

The knee always falls at the middle of a person total length. But when we are drafting the pattern, to get the knee point we divide by two and substrat 1.5 inch.

Why do we substrat 1.5 inch, remember we will later on add a waist band of 1.5 inch and sew it with half inch. So you see the knee point will later drop to it normal position

Note: This answer are valid when drafting a pants trouser, that is a trouser with a band having belt straps

Hope this was helpful?

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#Xristars
Fashion designer|Coach.