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Singapore’s Last Traditional Coffee Roasters May Soon Disappear by EXIMA: 3:10pm On Nov 26, 2021
Kopi is a term used to refer to a style of coffee that is unique to Southeast Asia. The process works something like this: cook Robusta beans with a whole lot of sugar and margarine, then grind the beans and brew them. Then, you can use a flannel sock as a filter as your pour the coffee into ceramic or glass cups from kettles with long spouts. The result is a frothy, smooth, and viscous cup of coffee. Add sugar and/or evaporated milk if you please.

While perhaps not the healthiest way to drink coffee, it has become a vital part of coffee culture in the region. Coffee is a beloved beverage. Since the 15th century, when coffee beans were first cultivated in Ethiopia, they have been traded and exported all over the world. From distinctive Turkish coffees to Italian cappuccinos and espressos, from French cafés-au-lait to rich Colombian and Brazilian beans, from Vietnamese and Thai iced coffees to grand, chocolatey, frapped American coffees, each region has developed its own coffee practices.

Making of Kopi and Its Popularity

Unfortunately, these traditional Singaporean roasters are seeing their numbers dwindle. Somewhat counterintuitively, the problem facing kopi is that it is too cheap. Merchants traditionally sold the coffee in open-air food courts called kopitamis which sells for about half as much as a classic Americano, despite Robusta beans containing more caffeine than Arabica beans. Therefore, this kind of coffee does not have a chic reputation among many Singaporeans. Another problem is that the process of brewing kopi is time-intensive, and the conditions are generally less pleasant than required for roasting Arabica beans.

What is further counterintuitive is that if this traditional Singaporean coffee needs strong preservation, it might be by the patronage of foreigners. Singapore-based coffee chains have already seen success exporting their particular brews across the world. In fact, it has become more and more common to see foreigners in kopitamis, as they want to experience something unique to the island nation. Perhaps this experience will be enough to maintain the survival of Singaporean kopi.

The story of kopi demonstrates how authenticity and uniqueness don’t always thrive under capitalism. On the other hand, change is inevitable. Kopi certainly wouldn’t seem “traditional” to the 15th century Ethiopian nor modern-day roasters in Colombia, Turkey, Italy, and dozens of other places.

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