donbabson1:

I Hv 2 cars
1) 2004 BMW E46 3.2l6 24valve
Jst standard engine,  And d other one is
2) Peugeot 406, 3.0l v6 ES9 J4S, also
Standard no modification,  So u got turbo for d two models??

A turbo conversion is more than just bolting on a turbo. You'll need:

01) Turbocharger.
02) Custom exhaust manifold to mount the turbo.
03) Turbo oil feed from main oil gallery.
04) Turbo oil return (involves drilling and tapping the engine block, or the sump above the normal oil level).
05) Lower compression pistons, or thicker head gasket to lower compression cheaply).
06) Custom intake pipework for intercooler.
07) Intercooler (compact enough to fit behind your bumpers).
08) Larger fuel injectors (your standard ones won't give enough fuel under boost).
09) Custom exhaust front pipe (connects to turbo).
10) Custom engine map.
11) MAP sensor (that detects vacuum, atmospheric and boost pressure).
12) Different spark plugs ("cold-running plugs".
13) Electric auxillary water pump (if turbo is water-cooled).
14) Associated coolant plumbing (if turbo is water-cooled).
15) Uprated fuel pressure regulator (at least 3 - 4 bar).


You may be able to retain your standard pistons and compression ratio, as long as you don't intend to run more than 6 psi boost. But an ECU remap is a must, assuming the parameters will allow it. If not, you'll need a custom stand-alone engine management system, running alongside your standard ECU, to handle boost, fuelling and ignition timing.

If your engines have over 100,000 miles on them, I wouldn't recommend boosting them without a rebuild. At the very least, new piston rings, crankshaft and conrod bearings.

A MAP sensor allows your ignition timing to r[i]e[/i]tard by at least 6 degrees under boost, otherwise your engine will detonate like mad, and eventually self-destruct.

Siena:

A turbo conversion is more than just bolting on a turbo. You'll need:

01) Turbocharger.
02) Custom exhaust manifold to mount the turbo.
03) Turbo oil feed from main oil gallery.
04) Turbo oil return (involves drilling and tapping the engine block, or the sump above the normal oil level).
05) Lower compression pistons, or thicker head gasket to lower compression cheaply).
06) Custom intake pipework for intercooler.
07) Intercooler (compact enough to fit behind your bumpers).
08) Larger fuel injectors (your standard ones won't give enough fuel under boost).
09) Custom exhaust front pipe (connects to turbo).
10) Custom engine map.
11) MAP sensor (that detects vacuum, atmospheric and boost pressure).
12) Different spark plugs ("cold-running plugs".
13) Electric auxillary water pump (if turbo is water-cooled).
14) Associated coolant plumbing (if turbo is water-cooled).
15) Uprated fuel pressure regulator (at least 3 - 4 bar).


You may be able to retain your standard pistons and compression ratio, as long as you don't intend to run more than 6 psi boost. But an ECU remap is a must, assuming the parameters will allow it. If not, you'll need a custom stand-alone engine management system, running alongside your standard ECU, to handle boost, fuelling and ignition timing.

If your engines have over 100,000 miles on them, I wouldn't recommend boosting them without a rebuild. At the very least, new piston rings, crankshaft and conrod bearings.

A MAP sensor allows your ignition timing to r[i]e[/i]tard by at least 6 degrees under boost, otherwise your engine will detonate like mad, and eventually self-destruct.

Good luck finding a Custom Tuning House in Nigeria willing to handle your project.