₦airaland Forum

dollarnaira:
Real life or paper.
In fact it takes 10days per 1hr to fill 1000L of my tank.
I will buy 20hp next time

Real life na.
How long does it take to pump your tank full?

dollarnaira:
0.5hp

Ah!! That will take ages to pum 1000gallon of GP tank na.

dollarnaira:
Trying to rewrite a wrong opinion over the internet about a 12v system. This is not meant for this group.

Me to AI:
It is wrong for most users of 12v system to criticise it as a bad system that doesn't function well.

My 12v 2000w continuous can power an induction cooker, submersible machine, washing machine, 300w iron, all electronics but not all at once.

It is a good system not appreciated by most users who based their assumptions on non efficient appliances. Modern day appliances are now working at low wattage with great efficiency compared to past ones.

What do you think?

AI response:

You’re right - a lot of the “12V is trash” takes come from people trying to run 1990s appliances on it.

Your setup proves the point: *12V 2000W continuous is plenty capable if you manage loads and use efficient gear.*

Why your system works well
1. *Modern appliances are efficient*: A 1500W induction cooker today cycles on/off and often runs at 600-900W once boiling. A 2005 model would just sit at 1500W non-stop. Same with DC brushless washing machines and submersible pumps - they draw way less than the old AC induction motors.
2. *You’re not overloading it*: 2000W continuous means ∼167A at 12V. That’s doable with 50mm² cable, a 200A BMS, and short runs. Most people fail here - they use thin cables and blame the 12V system.
3. *Load management matters*: “Not all at once” is the key. 12V systems shine for staggered use. Iron for 5 min, then cooker, then pump. That’s how most homes actually run things anyway.

Where 12V gets a bad rap
1. *High current = cable/connection headaches*: At 24V or 48V, 2000W is only 83A or 42A. Lower current means smaller cables, less voltage drop, less heat, fewer loose connection fires. So 12V is less forgiving of sloppy wiring.
2. *Starting surges*: Old fridges, pumps, and motors can pull 5-7x running wattage. A 300W fridge compressor might surge 1800W. That’ll trip a cheap 2000W inverter even though the math looks fine.
3. *People undersize everything*: They buy a 12V 100Ah battery, 100A BMS, and 1000W inverter, then try to run a 1200W cooker and wonder why it shuts off.

My take
For *<3000W total and short cable runs*, 12V is simple, cheap, and works great with modern efficient appliances. It’s the most common size for DIY solar and RV/boat setups for a reason.

Above 3000W continuous, or if you need long cable runs, 24V or 48V makes life easier. The physics favor higher voltage at higher power.

So yeah, it’s not the system that’s bad - it’s the mismatch between the system and the appliances + wiring. You’ve sized it right and you’re using efficient loads, so it makes sense that it works.

What’s your battery capacity and BMS rating? I’m curious how long you can run the cooker + washing machine back to back.

What is the Specifications of the pump you're referring to here?
Your response will be appreciated.

bassdow:
Hey Pals,
As you might know, soon WhatsApp is ending support for older devices, making the app incompatible with Android versions 5.0 and iPhones running iOS 12.5.7 and earlier from September 8, 2026.

Funny enough, I barely use smart phones and only retained one due to need to make calls and messages via whatsApp & teleGram. Those of us freelancers need cost effective means to communicate with foreign clients hence reason I kinda still bothered myself.

Yes I understand most of you would wonder how one could afford to live such kinda life BUT sometimes, you need wean yourSelf of certain things so you don't end up a prisoner like they want you to.

AnyWay sha, Currently using a used android device of over 5-years which still runs on android 5.1 and with this latest development, need to make the Switch soon to avoid distruptions.

Why am I bringing this here; well partly to notify those who sees me as ancient human + in case anyOne got a capable quality used device at Very pocket friendly price. For those with problematic devices, would suggest you don't waste ya time.

My kinda Devices:
The likes of Tecno, Gionee, inFInix, etc; and even Samsung + iPhone are a NO Go Area. I prefer Sony Xperia, Huawei, Motorola, Asus, Honor, LG, and onePlus/umidigi; and the order of preference is just as I listed them.

I prefer portable devices I could hold on my palm comfortably without tiring BUT at the right sweet price, that's just a soft preference.

Of course battery life should be excelent, or atleast good enough since it would be plugged-in 99.5% of the time. On transit, I rarely have a need to move with them.

Really not after fancy features so long performanceWise, it's fluid enough (not having 20GB ram but takes ages to swipe or open menu).
All I need is ability to seamlessly operate whatsApp (mostly make and receive calls) as most times (99% of the time), I am on whatsApp / teleGram web via my PC.

NeatNess doesn't matter much as I prioritize performance over aesthetics. I want no cracked or broken screens or those with ink please.

DisplayType don't matter much. infact LCD is much appreciated than AmoLed or retina Displays.

Operating System must be from Android 8 and above. Also those with Android Go shouldn't bother at all abeg.

Mind you, I'm not after a device that would last just a year or 2. No; I want it to even outlast mua sef hence mostly after those of Qualcomm Snapdragon or similar BUT would outRightly reject those of MediaTek except they're flagShip models.

Also my major target is normal or flagShip models, not budget models.

Also, super slim devices are a NO go area for me as they are not only fragile BUT easy to heatUp. Don't want to suffer from dead motherBoards or screens like most of you normal humans.

Also have no issue with those with no Sim (wifi Only) as even if it's got working simPort, would always be on airplane mode.

I don't do iOS except you would be gifting me as I'm more of an openSource kinda human.

maxBudget is 40,000 naira and that's a very hard max. For very very exceptional devices, could be willing to go up to a max of 50,000 naira.

Location: Lagos / Ogun (not Abeokuta) state.
Mind You, except it's completely FREE, and I pay for wayBill only after testing it at least works, I don't do wayBill.

NB: No one should waste his/her time + mine trying to engage me in negotiations as I would end discussions even before they get started the moment I notice your offer doesn't align with my requirements.

PS: Just that I'm kinda busy else already have plans for a browser only whatsApp alternatives that wouldn't force me to rely on apps BUT ETA is kinda long as I'm tightly occupied with other more serious things that actually pays ma bills. Hopefully before next phaseOut, wouldn't have a need to once again upgrade.

With all the specifications you gave, you still wan pay 50k.
Baba use kala enter street, you go fetch better quality free sef.

chadbasin:
Morning all, please I have a question:
I have 10 400w panels and intend to buy an Inverter with 2 strings, is it possible to put the 10 400w on one string and put 10 590w on the other string?
Thank you.

You can provided you did not exceed the voltage rating of the inbuilt mppt.

osayuwamwen:
no

If so, you battery never full for once oh.
Change your charging voltage to 28.8v

osayuwamwen:
not that I want to but our transformer has be bad for more than a year now, my set up power all my needs though I still practice power management

You have saved yourself the stress of unending wait on NEPA.

Ever since you upgraded to 24v, do you cook with it all round or you still use gas?

osayuwamwen:
no

That's interesting.
Which means you're off grid with your setup fully ba?

osayuwamwen:
luxsun 4.2kw 24v inverter
7 pieces of 535watt jinko panel

Do you equally use grid to charge your batteries?

ajabani4allah:
Cut off voltage of my battery BMS(UVP) is 3.55v(28.4v), so I set the Bulk/Constant Voltage charge of the inverter: 28.6v and
Floating Voltage: 27.8v but my battery never get charged pass 27.8v instead of 28.4v. I later changed the the floating Voltage to 28.4v and the battery now charge up to the 28.4v. pls is this setting ok I can see that the battery is charging according to the floating voltage instead of the Bulk/Constant voltage?

This is lithium battery. Your 28.6 for bulk and floating is ok.

Gshems:
4kw

Wow!
And just 2panels of 535w charges it full with load on it daily?

Gshems:
I also use a 12v system. 2 535w is fine. My battery gets full everyday. I don't even charge with nepa.

What is the capacity of your 12v battery?

bassdow:
Once again, welion and sunField are same company. they are the inFinix, and Tecno of inverters.

To not stress it much, apply the rule used on Tubular batteries except with different percentage e.g If you need 2kva, buy 5kva or 6kva. mind you, When your inverter is too big for it's load, you end up with high idle battery draw. it's like purchasing Lister generator when you need that small tiger Gen (I better Pass mY Neigbour), a litre of fuel in the small gen might not even be able to start the Lister Gen.

At end of the day, you put it up for sale under the guise of upgrade; then after you have moved from one low quality man brand to another, you finally either give up or buy an average or good brand.

Mind you, I'm not refering to you. My comment is general

You know all these logic, but you always suggest used LeadAcid batteries.
Your judgement is in heaven sha.

Tdoctor:
I salute the house
Please does anyone know anything about this battery?

Its an incomplete battery oh. Just like half of its rated capacity.
Someone did a capacity test on this battery on Tikt0k

bassdow:
have you got a current one that's bad or something like that ?

Also rather than inefficiently boosting 12v to 24v, why not use 2pcs of 12v batteries in series.

if the cost of the Lithium based batteries are expensive enough and mobility isn't a requirement, kukuma go for a used leadAcid battery[s][/s] that you can always sell at EndOfLife

You and used used leadAcid battery na 5&6.
The second part of your advise is a no no.

bassdow:
YES until He finds himSelf needing to upgrade once again. Guess He followed similar recommendation earlier when He/She went for a 2.5mm cable.

Last I checked, there are Aluminium Copper alloys in market with looks similar to what comes by default on most solar panels. I rather get a 6mm or 10mm of that if looking to keep costs low.

Except of course, OP intends remaining on his current solar capacity for rest of his/her life else it pays to not just plan for today; at least the wise doesn't plan for just today BUT the future

On series connecting, he will never need to use 10mm cable.

favouredbymercy:
When dollarnaira dey say na who get sense dey use solar, nor be joke matter.

I have been on just 2 590w monofacial jinko panels for long and I DONT CHARGE WITH GRID. More than 80% of my family cooking, refrigeration, ironing, 55w (6 bulbs) security lighting daily and MORE usage ARE ALL FROM SOLAR. And my battery has NEVER EVER gone less than 60% once.

If we dey insist on Lifepo4 for here, e get why. The key word is EFFECIENCY.

Modified:
My roof is not the send down the rain type of roof you guys use for your buildings, and my panels are sw facing, more towards the west. Those 2 ginko panels dey fire steady.

Please boss, what's the capacity of your battery and voltage?

mctfopt:
Yeah, stopped using all my non stick cookware this year. I'm now team 304/314 stainless steel cookware. Health is wealth. Crazy you'd see old nonstick cookware, well peeled, on sale as Tokunbo in Nigerian markets. Knowledge, they say, is power.

The pealed frypan is what we have been using for years now and got a set of new ones last December.
Ah! Una no quick talk oh.

osayuwamwen:
is there a device I can use to read real time accurate battery percentage, estimated charging/discharging time remaining, battery amp left and temperature ?

A DC shunt will do the job for you.

AyarmBoye:
Thanks for your detailed suggestions…How do I know a good used battery sef? Do you have someone that sells good used batteries and MPPT charge controller?….Although I plan to buy brand new Gpower tubular ba3 before but I heard fake batteries full market….

I await your response sir…This heat is just too much and man has been on generator all this while…

Don't allow anyone here market you to buy used battery please. You'll end up buying dead battery that you'll need to change within months.
Stick to your new 2.5kwh lithium battery as you already wanted.
Don't say you were not warned.

bassdow:
2pcs of 450w would give approximately 900w which is just about 100w above what most charge controllers supports for 12v system.

in other words, YES 2pcs of 450w solar panels would work though the charge controller would slightly clip it .

BUT please ensure it's just a single 12v 200AH battery. Don't try 2pcs of 12v battery which would give 12v 400AH as it would struggle to charge.

That's if you prefer Tubular battery, instead of Lithium based battery.

if Properly planed and sized, a used battery should serve you well enough while saving you money

With due respect, this your regular suggestion of used tubular battery is becoming suspicious and irritating.
I guess you're stylishly marketing abandoned batteries from your clients that upgraded to lithium.
Encourage people to save up for lithium and not go the tubular route in 2026 which they will still abandone and start chasing lithium thereby spending double.

AyobamiOluwole:
My take:

Omo that your friend needs to be very very very careful around you. Infact he should run away from you.

My bellle oh.
I don laugh tire.

fuckboys:
580k will get you a 4.4kwh from Mr Reed.

And additional 150k will get you 8kwh from haisic or CDO.

Who with a functioning brain will buy a 3kwh battery for 650k?

24v or 12v ?

HIGHESTPOPORI:
Who have used this sunshine solar panels ,are they reliable,it seems they are made in Nigeria.

Na fake panel be that oh. I got the 300w variant and it does not deliver up to 50% of its capacity.

Penuelseun:
Nice one, meanwhile this is from 6pcs of Era 585w panels

Wow! This is very impressive.

osayuwamwen:
am generating 3.5kw of energy from installed capacity of 3.7kw of jinko panel
jinko panel na baba

This your panel deh fire well bro.
I just deh get joy on your behalf. Money well spent.

bassdow:
I was refering to cWorth.

Moreover wetin I talk na general comment. If your outter wear is Really Really dirty, how much more your underWear

You were referring to a comment on the possibility of Haisic stackable battery to be added another battery to increase its capacity.
And the op was told that the actual capacity wasn.t 8kwh but 7kwh.
Go back to a page before and see the origin of this convo.

Dabss:
Nobody is stopping you from conducting your own independent testing. Nobody owes you nothing! The guy I know here that tests capacity does so on his own dime but see how you are talking as if you employed them.

No mind am. As if them forbid am from buying battery and test for the general public as Dammy deh do regularly.

Gshems:
Haisic batteries are brand new cells but dem dey always inflate the cell sizes. Most of their 4kw are actually 280ah cells

Na just the casing them deh do that thing.
Just know that the batteries are actually 280ah and complete one at that.

bassdow:
if they LIEd about their actual capacity, what makes you think that's all they're ain't HONEST about ?

Except I check for myself, I would always believe there are others they lied about. Unfortunately, I am not about to use my money or client's money to do unNecessary trial and error.

Several capacity test has been done on that battery and it really delivered the 7.2kw (280ah) written on the cells inside.
My friend is currently using the stackable white all in one, and its delivering as promised. Mind you the cells inside are brand new cells are shown by the teardown Solarissurge did on his live tikt0k capacity test last year.
Haisic na rugged battery bros.

dollarnaira:
Baba do you know that there are many appliances out there with great lower wattage?

Just yesterday I ran 2 freezers with a sumo on it?
It was as if I did nothing. Sumo ran for about 18mins. There are better inverters for this purpose.

Now, there are inverter ac (400w or less ) at moderate temperature and up there induction cooker with 300w or so. So what are we not saying?

Wow!
1. What's the size of the BMS on your battery
2. What's the HP of the sumo you used on it and
3. What's the capacity of your inverter and type of inverter?
Thanks.

Dabss:
loooool this is so spot on. I have a similar setup
60A Felicity CC, 4 PCs of 525w bifacial panels and I can't get beyond 1200w/h. At some point I was thinking my panels were fake. 😀

Is your inverter setup 12v or 24v system?