AutoJando's Posts
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Kintomadit: There's a very wide price gap between the years you mentioned. 2003 - 2004: 3.5 - 4m 2005 - 2007: 4 - 5m 2008: 6.5 - 7m. So it depends on your budget really #AutoJando |
[quote author=tetula123 post=132696561][/quote] That's quite out of my reach. Reach out to me on Whatsapp, let's see if you can take it to auto technician with a proper scan tool, I'll direct him what to do. 081 56 777 619 #AutoJando |
Nomerci: Ommoo!! If he sells this car as scrap, that means 90% of the so-called "Direct Toks" should be deported back to the origin country because that's how most dealers purchase them. Otherwise, I doubt if we will be able to purchase these cars in Nigeria if they all came with Clean Title from abroad. This accident is not even severe at all, it is like 3/10. It is only looking horrible like that because that's exactly how the car was designed to absorb impact. That whole frontal area is called the crumple zone. Being that the impact does not seem to have been severe enough to push the engine into the firewall, I doubt if this car will have any other long-term drivability concerns after the repair is completed. From the second picture, I can the that the OP only needs a fog lamp and complete painting of the bonnet, 2 fenders and bumper. That's about it shouldn't even cost more than 100k to fix this cosmetically. What will really cost money is replacing mechanical components like radiator, condenser, cooling fan + shroud+ expansion tank/coolant reservoir, the bent frontal crash beam, the foam(which is not compulsory), the radiator core support. For the bonnet to be looking really well lapped, I can tell that restoration of the frame members was done satisfactorily. He has already had the accident, let's not give him hypertension bikonu #AutoJando |
KingAzubuike: I meant that he did a good job. I see all the body lines have been restored to factory, that's quite difficult to achieve with locally accidented cars. If the painter is good, the car will come out clean after painting. #AutoJando |
KingAzubuike: For starters, it should be on the record that your panel beater did a terrific job realigning the front fascia of that car. It is left for painter to perfect the job. Coming back to missing parts, you can't just assume that things are missing without knowing what was there. The AC system, yes. Starting from the condenser/drier assembly, the radiator is definitely shot, the cooling fan + shroud + expansion tank/reservoir. These things will definitely need replacing. In addition, depending on the depth of the impact, you may even need to replace some deformed/broken engine seats. #AutoJando |
bacco2000:Aside from wrong/improper timing, it could also be that the camshaft phasor has been welded permanently with the camshaft. It could even be due to dirty oil or blocked oil fees orifice in the valvetrain, who knows. It will definitely need physical assessment. Is there grinding noise at the top of the engine? #AutoJando |
visita: Which year RX350? Don't touch that gearbox UNLESS whoever is doing this for you has done it for you before without complains. That transmission (whether U151E or F aka 13pin or U660/760E or F aka 22 pin) is super sensitive to oil level and the procedure of replacing the fluid, especially the 22pin. Don't say you were not advised #AutoJando |
tetula123:Your location? Lemme see if I can point you in the direction of someone who will fix that problem without guess work or trial and error basis. #Autojando |
tetula123:At any point in time before this problem started, was your battery drained that you had to jump start with another battery? Or was there any time that the battery terminal was removed for sometime and then reconnected? #AutoJando |
Whois:That's definitely a very good point, especially when buying foreign used cars. As for the error in the VIN written in the car's particulars, this is also a very very common problem. At least 2 out 10 registered cars will have one type of error or another. So much so that I have started to believe that these errors are intentional. Just about 2 weeks ago, we were on pre-purchase inspection for a 2016 Honda Accord. After the car itself has passed our thoroughly crafted inspection checklist, it was not time to check the particulars. On the papers, everything looked okay. When we reached out to our VIO for online confirmation, he sent us a screenshot of a car registered as "Toyota Accord". Just imagine this! We now had to add that error as a bargaining chip because we had to effect the correction in the papers that were renewed. #Autojando |
Zendizel:Grinding Noise, Corolla 1zz engine palava. Questions 1. Since the grinding noise is new to you, what was the original reason for replacing the crankshaft? 2. While he was replacing the crankshaft, did he open the top cylinder. Meaning did he separate the top cylinder from the engine block? If you are not tech savvy, the easiest way to know is to try to remember whether he mentioned anything that has to do with "gasket". Answering these questions correctly is very essential in the quality and effectiveness of the remote assistance you will receive from the many experts on this platform. #AutoJando |
Elui2:This Hardex, I don't want to call out a whole company wrongly. I had a customer who did oil change with this brand on his 2 cars: Acura MDX 2008 and Toyota Camry 2009. It will be unebelievable if I tell you that the Camry's engine got knocked, on the same day, the Acura's oil light too was blinking. Luckily I was on call with his wife(she drives the Acura) when this incident occured. I instructed her to quickly shut off the car and seek a mechanic that I can guide remotely. The oil and the filter were changed and that was all. For the camry, I ended up having to rebuild the engine for almost 300k, plus the gear was slipping too, had to fix that. 450k later, the car was back on the road. Toks engine and gearbox was like 1.1m then So back to the topic, I advice you go back to what we knew. Mobil is fine IF you buy from a Mobil filling station. But the right grade! #AutoJando |
Wrong diagnosis here. You will be spending close to ₦200k to get the two catalyst of that car. For the problem you described, even though it is not clear enough, it has nothing to do with catalyst efficiency or function..but if it is suspected that the catalyst is blocked then this is totally reasonable. Even at that, there's a way to verify before going ahead to dash part sellers money. State the problem clearly, the gurus on this platform might help point you in the right direction. #Autojando |
opebajo11:Like Abbeyismo rightly said, none of the codes will prevent your car from idling but for the benefit of doubt, I would disconnect that big ABS module connector before even checking anything else. The car was parked stationary for 2 weeks, I would start to suspect rodents damage. They might have had a serious party with your car's wiring harness. Also three other potential problem areas would be seized fuel pump, stiff throttle body butterfly plate and failing EFI/IGN relays. A good tip for inspecting rodent damages is to look out for their faces inside the engine bay. Check and give us feedback. Thanks! #AutoJando |
kingreign:Chief normal normal, we can't argue because I respect you. Before I responded to that message, I had to look up numbers to confirm. For a 2004 Toyota Sienna with 3MZ engine, the fuel economy numbers are 20/17/25mpg(combined/city/highway). For the 2006 model year of the same car, it is 19/17/24mpg. So in this context, the 3MZ is better in fuel economy than the 2GR. It is very agreable that the 2GR makes much more power compared to the 3MZ, but remember that it is also slight heavier and generally bulkier than the 3MZ..and when it comes to efficiency, weight definitely matters. Remember we are talking about the Sienna as a whole, not just the engines. If you noticed, Atolani11 also started that this case is specific with sienna which is what I corroborated. #AutoJando |
2shure:Don't worry sir, the post is probably not for you. You already know it all, the post is for people who are trying to do due diligence in making sure they don't buy over someone else's life problem with 4 wheels. Thank you! #Autojando |
Atolani11:Can't believe I skipped that important part in this our fuel crisis era. That's very correct. Just be doing regular service and you'll absolutely be fine. All the best! #AutoJando |
NifemiKolade:You are right. Just November last year, 4m Camry muscle is almost Toks Standard but of recent, you will start getting Toks Standard Nigerian used Camry Muscle from 4.5 and above. Infact, just have 5m+. Because even if you get something less than that you will still fix one or two. Also, I'd like to add that you should avoid the early model years, 2008-2009. Buy from late model 2010 and above. Reason being that the early year comes with the worst engine Toyota ever built, the 2AZ-FE 2.4L. An engine that is very very notorious for oil burning. You will be topping oil almost every week. Funny thing is that you won't see smoke. This was due to poor design of the oil control ring grooves coupled with the usage of low tension rings. Its a long story but just stay from 2AZ. The later model came with 2AR-FE 2.5L(dealers call it "venza" engine). So look for that one. Then look out for some of the things I mentioned above for the poster above you. I don't know any trusted dealer/mecho, I hardly do third-party referrals on sensitive matters like car purchase make I dey manage my low key lifestyle for Seun platform, I can't handle public disgrace as I dey laydis. Thanks @Autojando |
Atolani11:To be honest, your ₦3.7m budget is already a good figure for a Nigerian Used 2007 sienna in decent condition. In fact, you may get one for 3.3-3.5isshh, then you keep the balance for contingency expenses. The only caveat here is that the 2006-2007 Sienna upwards comes with a slightly bigger engine(2GR-FE 3.5L) compared to the 2003-2005 that comes with 3MZ-FE 3.3L engine. Both are solid Toyota V6 engines but I'd pick the 3MZ over the 2GR for these reasons: 1. The early generations of this 2GR engine is notorious for front timing cover oil leak and and cold start rattling sound. Regardless of the oil grade you use, regardless of how religious you are with oil change, this will happen at one point or the other in the lifetime of this engine. Using the right oil and doing early maintenance will delay this problem but it will happen. And when it does, the whole engine has the come down to replace the camshaft phasors. This problem was completely solved in the third generation 2GR starting from 2013. 2. The 3MZ engine is much less complicated and you don't need a special mechanic to be able to fix most of its problems. The only problem that it is notorious for is sludge build IF maintenance is not done regularly. It is also slightly more compact than the 2GR so there's more room for repair jobs in the engine bay. If you notice, many of the long distance transporters use the 2003-2005 sienna instead of the 2006-2007(I know this because the headlights/tail lights are slightly different. The others that offer luxury travel use the 2009-2012 Sienna. When picking one, just make sure it doesn't have history of being used for public transport. Look untouched engine, smooth selecting gear, straight body(even if there are minor dents and scratches that shouldn't be a problem), check for RUST, ensure that there's minimal electrical tampering and by God's grace, every other thing can be sorted out little by little until you don't have nothing serious to fix. All the best! |
Truth of the matter is that more Nigerian used cars are being recirculated among different users than ever before. The affordability of foreign used cars is at its all time low. From November 2023 till date, the prices of cars(naija & foreign used) have almost doubled. Case in point: Honda Accord 2008 that I bought in September for just 1.8m, restored it and resolved to an end User for 2.6m in November is now worth at least 3.5m with abeg. One of the most common reasons why people are buying Naija used cars is that they are extremely enticed by low price. Today, there a lot of distress sale cars out there that have actually distressed the owner from daily use. A good percentage of distress sale cars today are sold right after leaving a workshop or at the workshop itself. Dealers keep numbers of mechanics to be able to buy the so-called distress sale cars that they will manageably "repackage" and sell to you the unsuspecting innocent buyer. Buying Naija used car is not a sin, but falling for the price/urgency trap is what lands many new car owners in an irredeemable mess. Here are a few tips to keep in mind before buying a Naija used car; 1.Set a realistic budget. What do I mean? Okay, check it. Let's take a Lexus RX330 2006 as a sample space. Now, a Direct toks of this vehicle will be retailing for around ₦9-₦13m as at the time of typing this. If you are looking to buy a Naija used one, set your budget around 60-70% of the price for a Toks. If you do the math, that's roughly between ₦6-8m. Around this price range, you will get a car with good history that the owner probably swapped with a dealer for a higher car like RX350 2010. The dealer might have valued the car at ₦4m and then the deficit was paid by the buyer. So if he sells between 6-8m, he will be very happy with his trade and be willing to go the extra mile to fix minor issues that the car came with. He might spend some money on it to restore the minor problems that will make the early days/weeks/months for the new owner to be problem free. 2. Read/research about the common problems. Every car you see on the road has common problems. These are problems that the car came with from the factory that you will definitely experience at one point of the car's lifetime. Some of those common problems were so severe or posted safety concerns that the Automakers actually issue a recall on the affected cars. For some, the problems were fixed during the recall process, for others, the cars have been shipped outside the recall coverge area/warranty period. For example, 2008-2009 Toyota Camry Muscle/Spider/Voltron with 2AZ engine is known to have a factory detect of oil burning. I don't care which grade of oil you use, I don't care whether you bought it Toks, more than 70% of the Camry Muscle you see on Nigerian roads today with that 2AZ engine will have this problem. This problem is due a poor design in the engine oil control groove oil drain holes in the piston. The holes were so tiny that instead of oil that has been scraped by the oil rings to flow into the groove and squirt down the holes to return into the crank case, the oil actually makes its way upwards into the cumbustion chamber and gets burned. This problem is so serious that Toyota replaced the engine with 2AR engjne(aka "venza" engine) in 2010 model starting from late 2009. So if you read/researched about the car you are buying, you will find that you would already know what to look out for even before engaging a dealer to get you a car. 3. Find a trusted and educated mechanic. To be frank, trusted mechanics are very difficult to find, so also are the educated ones. Many mechanics go rogue after spending some time in the auto repair industry due to low compensation for jobs. There are others that were trained to be crooks by their bosses. In fact, your so-called trusted mechanic can be compromised upon arrival at the point of inspection. The dealer will give him a covert casual signal and they will both connive to mislead you just because of extra 20k that he will be getting from the dealer. He will now later use your car to be solving his family problems little by little. An educated mechanic will probably know the root cause of most problems he fixes on cars, so if he's giving you green light to buy a car with a particular problem, he will tell you exactly how he will arrest the problem with the potential cost to be incurred. So the thing is, before you set out, ask your trusted friends to connect you with a mechanic with the above qualities. You might be lucky to find one or two in your area. 4. Cut your coat smaller than your size. This sounds counter intuitive but lemme explain real quick. For perspective, I am fairly a well-to-do guy, I won't say I am currently wealthy but I solve all my financial problems myself and also render assistance to people in need when I can. I have a good business that generates sustainable income that can afford me to live a flamboyant lifestyle to drive a "BENZ" or a "BMW". When I decided that I needed a daily car, i bought a Direct Toks 2006 Toyota Corolla S. As at that time, i could afford to buy a fairly 2010 Mercedes-Benz E-350 or a Lexus ES350 2010, but no, i chose a direct Toks corolla which i bought for just 4.2m. This was Feb 2023. If had added just ₦1-2 to that amount, I could buy the Benz or the Lexus. I didn’t do that becasue I wanted a car that will serve me, not the one I will be serving. Lolz! I would have paid more money to inherit someone else's problem. Till I sold the car this year Feb, I dont think I spent upto 200k in repairs money and the fuel economy also saved me a lot of unnecessary expenses when subsidy vamoosed. The biggest thing I replaced were full set of tyres (which i bought immediately after buying the car), front shocks, starter brush, fuel pump, brake pads..dazzool I can remember. So the deal is, the car was like a toy that i can play with without fearing what next would break because no matter what, it will never take away 100k from my pocket for just 1 spare part. So that's that. 5. Prepare your mind for repairs/restoration. Many are mad, few are roaming! Many of the Nigerian used cars you see on the road have at least one type of sko-sko that is waiting to blow alarm. The best ones are the ones with minor cosmetic issues that you as an end user won't find appealing. Dents, scratches, unlapped bumper lines and so on might be hiding a car with pristine mechanical/electrical background. You won't know! Becasue it looks haggered and tattered, you will tell your dealer to just pass. The rule of thumb here is, lets say your whole budget is ₦10m for a naija used 2014 toyota Rav4. Look for a car around ₦9m-9.5m max. So that after you purchase and settle everyone involved, you will have money to buy tyres if they are worn out. You can change the oil to the recommended manufacturer spec which would prolong the engine life and give you a trouble-free experience from a mechanical standpoint. You might need to to drain all other fluids and use the OEM recommended ones just to fulfil all righteousness. 6. Pray to your Creator to guide you. See ehh, even though this is the last tip, it is much more important than I can explain. Prayer will make the money you transferred for a potentially problematic car reverse even if you kept trying over and over. Prayer will make the dealer tell you that, my chairman, I no go lie, you no go enjoy this, increase your budget small make I give you that one. That prayer is what will touch the hearts of fellow human beings that you are relating with to AT LEAST treat you fairly. Make dem no go dey see you as one mugu. So there you go, everywhere hot now, before you spend shingbai on top car mathias, you gas to use 99% intelligency...you hear me oo?? @Autojando |
Nemesisobaara:This problem sounds like something to do with the air temp sensor inside the car. Your HVAC works based on based on a feedback loop to tell the compressor to pump more or less refrigerant depending on the temperature in the cabin and your selected temperature. When the sensor fails, it will falsely tell the compressor that it should pump less refrigerant as the desired cabin temperature has been reached. There's a duty cycle solenoid inside the compressor that changes the angle of the swashplate for less or more stroke depending on whether it is demanded to pump less or more refrigerant respectively. Before I start to suspect the solenoid, I would start with this temp sensor mentioned. There's another temp sensor sitting on the condenser but this rarely fails. What you can do by yourself is to locate the sensor. Check if there's dirt or debris covering it. Clean it and see if there will be any improvement. Please ensure to bring feedback to the group for someone else to benefit from your experience. Thanks, AutoJando |
FILEBE:[color=#000099][/color] As far as it is anything that has got to do with Nissan, I always keep in mind that their hall effect sensors fail intermittently. I won't be surprised if the problem here is a failing OSS(Output Speed Sensor). Once there's speed correlation incoherence between what the WSS(Wheel Speed Sensors) and the OSS is reading, one will snitch on the other. Start by locating where the OSS(some automakers also call it Vehicle Speed Sensor, VSS). Check if there's any cause for concern around the connector, the sensors probing face and any other anomaly. If you don't find any, goto a spare parts market, instruct a mechanic to help you purchase a working one. The only way you can know a working one is after a test drive of at least 10km. You might be lucky on the first Sensor but it is not always the case with Nissans. Just ensure the mechanic is buying the Sensor on your behalf so that he can freely return any one that is defective and get another one at no extra cost. This is why you need this to be done in a spare parts market. If you don't have the time for any of this, then find a competent mechanic around your area. Thanks, [b][/b] AutoJando |
What's the model and year of your Honda? AutoJando |
b2212:What year is this Mazda 5 and which engine do you have on it? The sensor codes looks to me like a missing 5Volts reference circuit supplied from the ECU, the other codes are 12 volts controlling the transmission solenoids and A/F sensor heater circuits. I can only help you if I know the exact car make, year, model and engine on it. Thanks, AutoJando |
Gentew:The solution to his problem does not apply to your Honda Accord. The most likely permanent fix for your own case will be to replace the transmission. This has not been said in order to ruin your mood. Honda transmissions are much more different from Toyota's. The likely culprit of your own problem are the pressure control solenoids B & C, or the pressure modulating solenoid, or even both. Even if you replace these and the problem disappears, it will resurface again because the root cause of it is dirty oil. Even if you change the oil, the dirty primary filter located deep INSIDE the guts of the gearbox will still end up recirculating dirty oil to the new components. There are transmission rebuilders out there that have an appreciable count of success on repairing these trannies, but there's still some level of unassurance with the job for the long run. So decide early. Thanks, AutoJando |
Nazgul:Wait wait, hang on. The problem you're having seems different from his. This symptom you just complained about is synonymous with something called torque converter shudder. The problem was common with 2012-2013 toyota camrys amd some Venza model years. The fix is to change the torque converter. This is not an easy/quick job. And if you're getting a torque converter, buy the one removed from a 2014 camry gearbox. The problem was fixed in that model year. AutoJando |
buygala:Your point is very valid. Yes, the transmission fluid is a closed loop network from the tranny to the radiator and back to the tranny. Ideally, no foreign object enters this closed system. What we need to take into account is that the friction discs (or fibers as street mechos like to call them) wear with time and usage. Just like brake pads and shoe brakes, these items are made of friction materials that are subject to wear and tear as they perform their function. However, unlike brake pads that wear out and leave the inner wells of your rims with dust and gunk, the worn out material from the friction disc mixes with the oil in the tranny and pollutes it. This is why manufacturers recommend a fluid change/flush at a given interval. Some will say 50,000 miles, some will say 75,000 while some can be as high as 100,000. The OEMs knew beforehand that the ingress from the friction lining material will eventually clog the filter, this is why they even put the filter in the first place. Toyota and lexus with their design hindsight chose a convenient place to locate these filters that makes them easily assessible without having to dismantle the whole tranny. The Hondas/Acuras and most American brands decided to put theirs deep in the gut of the tranny. This is the repair success rate for transmissions on these latter brands are quite low. So coming back to your concern again about getting to the root cause of the problem, it is the friction lining material that mostly does this. This is why replacing the filter and the oil is technically supposed to be the fix. The ultimate and most guaranteed process is to ensure that all the dirty oil(including the one in the torque converter) is completely flushed out to perform a transmission fluid flush. This is quite an expensive venture and requires good technical background to carry out. Thanks for your input, AutoJando |
abiolag:Perform one quick check. Find a convenient place to park 1. Start the engine. 2. Turn ON the A/C 3. Pop the bonnet 4. Check if the two radiator fans are working and spinning fast. If you find that one is not rolling, it could be any of these 4 things A. The relay B. The fuse C. The fan motor(usually the carbon brushes) 4. The bearing of the motor may have melted to the shaft of the amarture and cause the rotor to seize. In most cases, the problem is usually C but ensure you give feedback to the thread so your experience can be useful to someone else. Thanks, AutoJando |
Burchester:Okay, this might be what I was suspecting. It all boils down to the oil you use and the replacement interval. On the bright side, you may not spend any money on parts because this code is synonymous with clogged screen filters shrouding the openings of the VTC solenoid. Rather than referring you to any of the guys I know, I would give you this video link to use as a guide to direct your own mechanic on what to do. I've had a few bad experiences referring car owners to other mechos when I'm not there to supervise what's going on. So here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GXDuq_-XDo AutoJando |
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