₦airaland Forum

temizeee:
Coming from someone that own and used infared and induction cooker, I will pick an induction cooker anyday anytime over an infared cooker. What i like most about induction cooker is the speed at which it cooks, It saves more energy than infared cooker…i got few set of stainless pot at a local store here that works with induction cooker at a ridiculous cheap price…4 sets for about 20k.

if stainless pot work with. That's all I have then

MrSuama:
It's back to 25k since MTN launched their ODU which is 30k with 100mbps unlimited.

really. I didn't know airtel has reduced the price back to 25k. For the Mtn that's for Fibre X

Gshems:
New one na 25k

the price increased to 40k,regardless his sales is expensive cux no free unlimited subscription

Digivant:
Airtel 5G ODU Router.

1 month old (No subscription)

Selling as owner got fibre.

Bought 40k

Selling #30k

Location - Lasu/igando/ikotun

you must be joking with this deal.. new one sef with free 1 month unlimited subscription na 40k so why sell it 30k without subscription

dollarnaira:
Infrared cooker is a modern hot plate with glowing heating element that can obviously be seen.

Induction cooker: You see nothing. Everything is black. You hear it working only when the right pot is on it.

Wrong pot , No work
Right pot, working


Una question for here enh...
YouTube and Google dey o

then I'll go for infrared cooker to avoid pot selection.. hope the infrared no dey chop light too like the normal hot plate

smallsmall:
- Induction Cooker Selects Pot but Infrared Cooker does not.
- Induction Cooker is more Efficient in any Energy Consumption, than an Infra Red Cooker
- Induction cooker uses Electromagnetic field to generate heat while Infra red Cooker uses a 'direct-heating' Element to generate heat, hence its lower efficiency.
- Induction Cooker heats faster than Infrared Cooker.
Adjusting the Temperature of an Induction Cooker is easier, consistent and instantaneous (due to its electromagnetic Technology) so, it is cheaper to run, compared with infrared Cooker
- Induction cooker usually cost more, than infrared Cooker, just a little more but in locations where getting the right Pots is difficult or expensive, this drives down the demand for induction Cooker and hence the Cost

so in a nutshell does infrared cooker consume less energy and it's the best right

micxwell:
Happy Sunday, everyone.

Does anyone know this brand of induction cooker?

A vendor initially sent me what was supposed to be an induction cooker, but when I switched it on, I discovered it was actually an infrared cooker. I had to send it back, and they sent me this one as a replacement.

I've tried it, and it seems quite good. However, I've never heard of this brand before.
"MEESTAJAMES"

pls what's the difference between induction cooker and infrared cooker.. is it fast than each other or which one dey select pot

AyarmBoye:
yea..You will understand when u start using only solar to charge…unless ofcourse you wana use grid to charge.

hmm.. pls educate me, cux I wanna go off grid with this setup ni

AyarmBoye:
you should get 3-4amps but mehn your battery will suffer unless you don’t pass 50% DOD

battery suffer as how.. so make i no dey use the battery to drain off on raining or cloudy days so it'll charge up faster the next day

AyarmBoye:
pwm will whine you…Best to use pwm is when your panel voltage is very close to your system..eg 18v panel for 12v system,,,30v for 24v system…but high voltage panels will bee wasted under pwm….during. Cloudy days ur panels will barely give 5amps

but if there's cloudy days will i still get like 4ah. I've contacted the installer you're right. He said 2pcs of 200w panel is 9ah with his experience installing so far

AyarmBoye:
pwm will whine you…Best to use pwm is when your panel voltage is very close to your system..eg 18v panel for 12v system,,,30v for 24v system…but high voltage panels will bee wasted under pwm….during. Cloudy days ur panels will barely give 5amps

yes I'm only using a 18v, 200w panel since it's Pwm & a 12v battery system alongside with my 1000w or upgrade to 2000w sachet inverter so I can use ceiling fan with on sunny days in the afternoon if am home. But my family and am not always home till night

AyarmBoye:
32a is fine….13k for it is not bad..Ali express sells for that range and u wait 2 weeks to reach Nigeria

na with abeg, he stated 15k before..
So with that 32a it'll cut off immediately there's heavy voltage from thunder strikes on the panel

bassdow:
Earthing is NOT a must especially for really small setUps EXCEPT you don't mind spending. For such small system, just invest in good rated breakers both for solar panel, battery, AC output, and optionally AC input (only if using NEPA / Generator with ya inverter)

like @AyarmBoye said. He stated 32a dc breaker is a good one for the panel. And I'm not using gen so I fixed it to change over.. I'm using those designed 18650 lithium ion battery of 1.2kwh(100ah)..

AyarmBoye:
I believe you should have a separate change over switch for the inverter unless you don’t ever wana use generator…Anyways 63a breaker for 20A current is an oversize..It won’t help when there’s spike sha…I think 30a is the best depending on your panels spec…63a is just an oversize which will only serve as switch…it won’t protect sh**t

I'm not ever using generator.. what's the essence while still keeping generator. However I made a mistake it's a 32a dc breaker i meant to say. The vendor is telling me 13k last.. the pic below is just a 63a.. a sample of what he's giving me. . He said the 32a is far away hence can't scatter things to snap and share to me

AyarmBoye:
note that the 20a current I estimated is based on Mppt cc…I doubt pwm can give you…you will be lucky to even get 12amps sef….

chaii.. that sucks.. I'm using a pwm cc jare, that means on raining season it won't charge at all

AyarmBoye:
I believe your system is small enough,,I don’t think it’s necessary,,just have good and proper rating surge protectors for both AC and DC…

surge protectors how, the 12v system is connected to change over where generator is.. Nepa & inverter to change over.. the only protection am looking out for is using a 63a Dc breaker in between the panel(pv) wire and controller input

AyarmBoye:
please go ahead….The highest current you can get from 400w panel during peak sun is 20a on parallel connections and 10a on series assuming you operate on a 12v system,just make sure to use better DC cable you will be absolutely fine….

yes I'm using a 12v system.. so if I truly i get 20ah on a peak sun it's fast charge enough for a 1.2kw(100ah) battery with Bsc pwm controller, while am using a 4mm dc cable for the panel

AyarmBoye:
bro I don’t know why you are disturbed really..See as long as your roof isn’t aluminum or zinc roofing material that generate a lot of heat during peak sun,u don’t need railings for 2 200w panels…..if your roofing material is slate/cement fibre place it directly and be done with it..I mounted 4 pieces of 200w on my previous apartment with cement fibre roof for 5 years during my bachelor days roughly 2 years back with binding…I just made sure every 2 years I check for rust and I never changed any binding wire…it was even easy to unmount them when I left..no leakages during and after…

Just find a professional to mount them,,don’t do them yourself….Now I want to mount this 4 panels on my mums slate roof and yes I will be using binding wire, most likely the anti rust own…Nah person wey go help me mount am I dey find.

thanks for this. With this i and my landlord are good with the use of binding wire.. but which one is cement fibre roof

bassdow:
Actually, those mounting accessories mostly make the work easier especially if you have a need to earth the solar panels.

do i still need to earth my 2pcs of 200w panel for person house. I need to do earthing again

bassdow:
Like I often suggest, most times, when using mounting rail on a rented property, abeg when leaving, try not to remove it except you ready to make the intentional effort into ensuring there wouldn't be any leakAges

na why I no want use anything. I prefer binding wire. Plug & play to avoid any leakage cux the man no won gree from the onset due to panel fire he saw online..I tried convincing him it's Ai.. he only agreed i install it at a far place to my apartment

bassdow:
for something of this capacity, doesn't make much sennse spending on mounting rails or even the Aluminium profile sef. Just use binding wire. Atimes we end up overPlanning things

in fact if doing less than 4pcs of 300w solar panels sef, still quicker andn cheaper using binding wire or the stainless steel wire someone suggested or binding wire with the solar panels sitting on top of it. Also using binding wire / stainless steel wires annd tying or nailing on the roof reduces risks of leakAges.

Instead spend those funds on getting bigger and more quality things such as inverters, charge controllers, battery, etc.

Also if handling things yourself, be sure you know what you doing else even with the right tools, you still could end up with bad work than soemone who didn't spend on those things.

Extreeme care is mostly required and necessary for big setups, not these very small ones

thanks for the relief you gave me.. I'll use the binding wire and mount on the slate roof directly . Cux am using a Bsc 60ah pwm controller.. thanks

U

AyarmBoye:
bro I don’t know why you are disturbed really..See as long as your roof isn’t aluminum or zinc roofing material that generate a lot of heat during peak sun,u don’t need railings for 2 200w panels…..if your roofing material is slate/cement fibre place it directly and be done with it..I mounted 4 pieces of 200w on my previous apartment with cement fibre roof for 5 years during my bachelor days roughly 2 years back with binding…I just made sure every 2 years I check for rust and I never changed any binding wire…it was even easy to unmount them when I left..no leakages during and after…

Just find a professional to mount them,,don’t do them yourself….Now I want to mount this 4 panels on my mums slate roof and yes I will be using binding wire, most likely the anti rust own…Nah person wey go help me mount am I dey find.

thanks for this boss.. I'm not mounting myself, I only shared the pic of the binding wire i got and also I'll be using an experience carpenter who do house roofing to climb and bind the 2pcs of 200w panel on the roof directly without using the aluminum profile since I do not have issues generating fire from it

You mean this can easiiy get burnt if thunder strike cux i no want burn person house cux the landlord already said it burn house... so i need to be careful..

However, you also said 200w 2panels is stil good can't cause fire

smallsmall:
1) No Aluminum Profile was used.

2) I cant see the Binding Wire but l guess it is there, maybe the color blended with the Brown Roof.

3) Or maybe the installer Screwed the Panel Down, to the Wood of the Roof.

I dont recommend what l am seeing here but it does not mean it wont work..... it just present some level of elevated risk.

smallsmall:
No! I was speaking generally.
That amount is what One Profile (about 20ft length) of Aluminum Cost, when l bought them.
You might even get small pieces (Offcut) of half or quarter length.
As for leakage, there si a felt they use to waterproof the joints. They also use Silicone to do the same Job.

Since your Panels are just two, you might not need to be too concerned, maybe l am just too risk-averse.
If you have space, why not do a sort of Car-port installation, instead of a Roof install?
Someone gave a good and detailed explanation of such installation, with pictures, not more than Ten pages behind this current page.

I just hope everyone doing DIY is safe, success of ONE is success of ALL.

since it's just two like you said i might not need aluminium can place it on roof directly with binding wire.. for having car-port no space, however remember I said it earlier the landlord is skeptical doesn't want it either that it burns house .so he wanted to give me a free space on top of an old tank to use at his own store house roof which consume a lot of Dc wire before it get to my apartment

smallsmall:
I dont have them, because l dont use them, I use Aluminum Window Profile as Railings for my Panels.
But l have seen them at the Market, when buying Iron, Binding Wires and other Building Materials in the Past.

My own advise is that: The risk of fire is very high, when things are not done properly and with standard materials.
Moreover, fire from Lithium Batteries should never happen to anyone, if is so ferocious and doesn't hear "e don do".

Spending extra #30,000+- for Aluminum Railings and steel Wires, to save one's property, family and House, is not a bad bargain though l understand that fingers are not equal.
Each man to his own, at the end of the day.

pls is it aluminium profile used here or just binding wire in the image below

You're right and thanks for your concern and utmost understanding.. all hands are not equal however you said the aluminium railing for 2pcs of 200w won't cost me than 30k

Also to avoid roofing leakage, if i knack nail with the aluminium on the slate before placing panel, hope there won't be any roofing leakage boss

smallsmall:
I dont have them, because l dont use them, I use Aluminum Window Profile as Railings for my Panels.
But l have seen them at the Market, when buying Iron, Binding Wires and other Building Materials in the Past.

My own advise is that: The risk of fire is very high, when things are not done properly and with standard materials.
Moreover, fire from Lithium Batteries should never happen to anyone, if is so ferocious and doesn't hear "e don do".

Spending extra #30,000+- for Aluminum Railings and steel Wires, to save one's property, family and House, is not a bad bargain though l understand that fingers are not equal.
Each man to his own, at the end of the day.

bassdow:
Actually I just tell people to use those sockets with round holes and they should buy it tokunbo. Or just tell the seller it's for big electric cooker. You over paint a big picture so they get what you mean and compromise less.

Also should use minimum of 4mm AC wire though would suggest 6mm or higher

those round hole socket are known as 15ah socket

bassdow:
nothing bad installing there BUT like I said earlier, there are silly things one could get away with on smaller installations BUT when doing those much higher, shouldn't be. Also 2pcs of 200w or even 300w is small.

But for those without much technical knowHow, if you can't afford the standard mounting rails, kukuma go for the cheaper ones Aluminium or just use binding wire or the stainless abi wetin person just recommended above

yes I'm using binding wire jare.. thanks

smallsmall:
Try and use stainless steel wire (the shiny, silver one).
That one will not rust.
Also, l will advise against putting your Solar Panels directly on any iron/aluminum roofing sheet.
Try and get the Aluminum railing, you can go to any Aluminum Village to buy it directly. They use it as Window Profile and it is far-far cheaper from such places.
Safe comes first and above any other thing, let us not take too much fire risk, so we can have rest of mind.

I saw this installed on aluminium roof. I'm not sure this person used rail on this 2pcs of 200w panel. But my own roof is slate

smallsmall:
Try and use stainless steel wire (the shiny, silver one).
That one will not rust.
Also, l will advise against putting your Solar Panels directly on any iron/aluminum roofing sheet.
Try and get the Aluminum railing, you can go to any Aluminum Village to buy it directly. They use it as Window Profile and it is far-far cheaper from such places.
Safe comes first and above any other thing, let us not take too much fire risk, so we can have rest of mind.

can you share the sample of the binding wire you talking about and also I'm not putting it on aluminium or iron roof. It's a slate roof like i said earlier

bassdow:
Solar panel related fire mostly would happen from those using high voltage setUp and that's if not done well. When I say DC is wicked, that's what I mean. AC would diconnect easily during issues the moment it sparks enough (thanks to the physics involved) BUT DC has no Zero point hence would just continue going except the conductor on that section glows enough to burn / melt away breaking the connection.

Once again, those doing high voltage setUps needs be careful especially when not using quality MC4 connectors or just twisting wires together.

Some DIY improvisations are meant for those doing small scale; not those doing something big.

As for placing the solar panel directly on the roof without anything to hold it; that's very dangerous because it would stay but wind / breeze can throw it away and you need not be told the danger when it lands on anything including humans or cars or whatever.

if you can't afford mounting accessories, get one who can use binding wire well enough and the binding wire shouldn't be exposed so it doesn't rust overTime.

If it's a decking, with edges that act like shallow walls, then you could keep them without support though still not 100% adviced as situations could differ

thanks.. I'm using the binding wire above. I'm on a band A & not using an heavy setup as we do have light and however I'm even thinking of going off grid as my wife and children comes back from shop at 9pm and that's the time we use light, watch TV for an hour and go to bed to sleep with Fan only.

However you talked about the binding wire, if it rust does that mean it'll cut off after a while if it rust .

Lastly, with Just light and Tv I should be able to off grid for night TV, 10w bulb & dc fan usage overnight while everybody goes out in the morning while attached it to a 18v 200w(2 pcs) cux I only have Bsc pwm controller already kept aside

twinskenny:
Yesterday installations @ obanikoro Lagos

6kva deye inverter

10kwh deye lithium battery


5 no of 620w jinko panels


You need great carefulness installing panels on a slate roof.. delicate

I swear I'm afraid installing this on my roof... my landlord sef told me he saw online that solar panel dey burn house chaii . Is it true house?

Also, pls I wanna ask isn't this a flat roof, I heard some people said it can be placed on it directly without using that rack