₦airaland Forum

If your car's owner's manual says it does, you do.
For many consumers, whether to spend extra money for synthetic oil for an oil change is a difficult question to answer.
Manufacturers of synthetic oil promise more miles and better performance when compared with conventional motor oil, but it comes at a higher cost — sometimes twice as much per oil change. Is it worth the extra money?
Typically, high-performance vehicles will be more likely to require synthetic oil, as will vehicles that have a turbocharged or supercharged engine. However, if your vehicle does not require synthetic oil, the choice is trickier - and there is no clear answer.
Synthetic oil generally resists breaking down for longer than conventional motor oil (typically 7,500 miles to 10,000 miles, sometimes up to 15,000 miles, as opposed to 3,000 miles to 7,500 miles for conventional oil). That makes the extra cost a wash, if you have half the number of oil changes, but each one costs you twice as much. Other touted benefits include cleaner engines, better flow in cold temperatures, better protection when it's hot outside and better performance with turbocharged engines.
There are also synthetic blends. As the name implies, these are blends of synthetic and conventional oils. They straddle a middle ground — they cost more than conventional oils but less than full synthetics, and are said to last longer than conventional oils but not quite as long as synthetics — but again, that's a hard number to pin down since manufacturers are vague with their claims. An independent testing lab we spoke with said that synthetics often didn't perform much better than conventional oils do.
Still, older engines may benefit from synthetics because it is less likely to form sludge.
If your car doesn't require synthetic oil you should perform a cost/benefit analysis, but that can be difficult to do due to vague claims made by manufacturers. There may be no reason to spend more on synthetic oil, except for peace of mind.

Read more at https://www.cars.com/articles/does-my-car-need-synthetic-oil-1420684417536/#W0EkqzDs60hzzjQz.99

What's Causing That Smell in My Car?
If your vehicle is giving off an unusual or sickening odor instead of that new-car smell, follow your nose and find the source of the aroma. Bad smells can lead to expensive repairs or health hazards and shouldn't be ignored. Here are some common odors and their possible causes:

Musty: If turning on the air conditioner generates a musty smell, mold and/or mildew have probably formed in the air-conditioning system. Moisture naturally collects on the cold air-conditioning evaporator (a small radiator that carries refrigerant into the car's dashboard) and it may be harboring mold. Running only the fan at high speed (with the air conditioning off) can dry the evaporator.
However, that doesn't guarantee the problem won't reoccur — especially if it's being caused by a clog in the drain tube that allows water to drip out under the car. A musty smell also can be caused by carpets that get wet when water leaks into the interior.

Sweet: Antifreeze has a sweet, syrupy odor, and smelling it inside a car usually means there's a leak somewhere in the cooling system. The source may not be easy to see. For example, the leak could be from a corroded heat exchanger (aka heater core), which is usually behind the dashboard. The leak could be in the form of steam that enters the cabin, producing the smell and potentially fogging the windows. Have this problem addressed, because breathing antifreeze isn't good for you.

Burning: Oil could be oozing onto a hot part of the engine or exhaust system. It also could come from overheated brake pads and/or rotors — due either to aggressive braking, pads that don't retract when you release the brake pedal or the emergency brake being left on while driving. On a vehicle with a manual transmission, the clutch plate could be worn or overheating from riding the clutch pedal. Leaves or other material in the engine compartment — sometimes imported by nesting rodents — also can burn on hot surfaces.
Rotten eggs: If you can smell rotten eggs or sulfur, your catalytic converter may have gone bad. The root cause could be an engine or emissions-system problem that made the converter overheat.

Rubber: The smell of burning rubber could be an accessory drive belt that's slipping or getting chewed up by a broken pulley or hose rubbing against a moving part. An overheated clutch plate also can smell like burning rubber.
Electrical: Smell burnt toast? That could be a short circuit in an electrical component or overheated insulation. Take electrical odors seriously, because short circuits and overheated components are common sources of fire.

Gas: It's normal to smell a little gas when a cold engine is first started because of incomplete combustion. If you smell gas after the engine is warm, though, the gas cap could be loose or the evaporative emissions control system — which is supposed to contain fuel vapors and recycle them through the engine — could be leaking or clogged. Even worse, gas could be leaking from the tank or another part of the fuel system. Always investigate gas smells you discover when your car is parked before starting the car and potentially igniting the fuel.

Rotting fruit: It's probably what it smells like. Look under the seats for a decomposed apple or banana.

Cheers!

http://ow.ly/9SYL303kdI5

Yes, our head office is here in Lagos. You can call me on 08030509254 so that we can discuss better. Thank You for choosing Castrol.

ocheboy:
do you have a shop/ store? how much is your 5w30

A continuous high-pitched squeal while you're driving is usually the sound of a built-in wear indicator telling you that it's time for new pads. As the pads wear down and get thinner, a small metal tab contacts the rotor like a needle on a vinyl record to warn you it's time for new pads. (Some wear indicators may work differently and engage only when you apply the brakes.)
Other squeals and squeaks will require a brake inspection to diagnose, and may require cleaning, lubrication or adjustment, and possibly new parts. Most brake noise is caused by worn or loose parts.

If you're lucky, the squealing (or squeaking) noise that your brakes make when you first drive your car in the morning, particularly after rain or snow, is just surface rust being scraped off the rotors by the pads the first few times you apply the brake pedal, or the result of moisture and dirt that collects on the rotors, including from condensation caused by high humidity. If it goes away after a few brake applications, no worries.
If the noise persists most times or every time you apply the brakes or stays on continuously while you're driving, the cause is more serious — and the fix will be more expensive.

For example, an unevenly worn rotor (often referred to as "warped"wink won't let the brake pads press flat against the rotor when you apply the brakes, and that can create vibrations that generate noise. Likewise, an unevenly worn pad won't press tightly against the rotor and may chirp. Another possibility is that the pads are loosely mounted, or the shims that hold them in place have corroded or become loose.
And then there are the pads themselves. Some mechanics warn that bargain-bin pads are more likely to be noisier than higher-quality, more-expensive pads. In addition, loose or sticking calipers can contribute noise. Because there are several possibilities, and because brakes are a crucial safety feature, it is best to have a pro diagnose noise.

A grinding sound usually means that the pads have worn away, and now the backing plates on which they were mounted are being squeezed against the rotor. This metal-to-metal contact means that you will need to replace the rotor as well — and that you probably ignored some earlier warning signs of brake wear.

#AUTO_CARE #CASTROL


Source: Enqh303i7wF

A continuous high-pitched squeal while you're driving is usually the sound of a built-in wear indicator telling you that it's time for new pads. As the pads wear down and get thinner, a small metal tab contacts the rotor like a needle on a vinyl record to warn you it's time for new pads. (Some wear indicators may work differently and engage only when you apply the brakes.)
Other squeals and squeaks will require a brake inspection to diagnose, and may require cleaning, lubrication or adjustment, and possibly new parts. Most brake noise is caused by worn or loose parts.

If you're lucky, the squealing (or squeaking) noise that your brakes make when you first drive your car in the morning, particularly after rain or snow, is just surface rust being scraped off the rotors by the pads the first few times you apply the brake pedal, or the result of moisture and dirt that collects on the rotors, including from condensation caused by high humidity. If it goes away after a few brake applications, no worries.
If the noise persists most times or every time you apply the brakes or stays on continuously while you're driving, the cause is more serious — and the fix will be more expensive.

For example, an unevenly worn rotor (often referred to as "warped" won't let the brake pads press flat against the rotor when you apply the brakes, and that can create vibrations that generate noise. Likewise, an unevenly worn pad won't press tightly against the rotor and may chirp. Another possibility is that the pads are loosely mounted, or the shims that hold them in place have corroded or become loose.
And then there are the pads themselves. Some mechanics warn that bargain-bin pads are more likely to be noisier than higher-quality, more-expensive pads. In addition, loose or sticking calipers can contribute noise. Because there are several possibilities, and because brakes are a crucial safety feature, it is best to have a pro diagnose noise.

A grinding sound usually means that the pads have worn away, and now the backing plates on which they were mounted are being squeezed against the rotor. This metal-to-metal contact means that you will need to replace the rotor as well — and that you probably ignored some earlier warning signs of brake wear.

#AUTO_CARE #CASTROL


Source: http://ow.ly/Enqh303i7wF

#Castrol_Brands #CASTROL_EDGE_AND_YOUR_ENGINE #Why_is_Oil_Strength_Important_?
Today’s technology has allowed car manufacturers to produce smaller, yet more powerful and efficient engines. The aim is to deliver increased fuel economy, reduced emissions and high performance.
Downsizing, turbocharging and advanced engine designs means that engine pressure has almost doubled over the past 20 years, causing more stress on the oil. In areas like the cam and the follower, the oil needs to withstand pressures in excess of 10,000kg per square centimetre.
So you need an oil that’s proven strong and remains strong, however you drive.
Take a look at the video to get a feel for the emotion behind our brand. Castrol Rocks!
Video Link: http://ow.ly/5TQ2303i5KL

Hello Bro, yes we do. I just sent you a mail to that effect. Kindly revert. Thank You!

marxwellerr247:
Do u deal on heavy duty desiel trucks,

pls how do I get in touch

pls send mail to marxwellerr@gmail.com

Nice, thanks

eagleonearth:
op you forgot to mention battery issues. low temperatures affect old and dying batteries

You are welcome Bro, anytime

caesaraba:
Thanks OP for sharing.

Thank You!

pragmatistm:
Many useful points. Kudos.

Castrol Engine Oil will give you desired performance and value for your money. It offers you quality at the best price. Holla @ 08030509254

Hello Trunaijan, You can try Castrol Engine Oil fro optimal performance. For further details, call 08030509254. Thank You!

Trunaijian:
Just about to do some major maintenance on my car. Would apprec8 recommendation on which type of oil to use for optimal performance.

List of common problems and their solutions for cars in the rains. (Please feel free to add to the collection below).

Wiper condition
Problem: The windscreen wiper is making noise and causing streaks on the windscreen.
Solution: Windscreen wipers need to be replaced preferably every year, just before the monsoon season. Wiper blades are made of rubber which can get hard and brittle due to cold winters followed by hot summers. This causes an uneven wiping surface on the wiper blade edge. Sometimes the wiper blade rubber can tear, exposing bare metal, which can irreversibly damage the windscreen.
If you do not want to buy a pair of wipers yet, you can get some 400 grit (fine grade) sand paper and gently rub it across the blade edge. That will even out any imperfections. Don’t overdo it as you will damage the wiper.


Windshield washer
Problem: There is no or poor spray from the windshield washer. The spray does not come out at all or does not have enough pressure.
Solution: When you pull the windshield washer switch, listen for a humming sound from the engine bay. If you get that humming sound and there’s no water coming out of the spray nozzle, first check if there is windshield wash fluid or water in the container. If that’s there, check the tubing from the container to the wash nozzle for leaks. If none are evident, it could be that the nozzle itself is blocked. Take a pin and clean the nozzle holes. Spray a lubricant spray on the nozzle to rid it of any debris that has blocked it.
If you don’t hear a humming sound, check the fuse for the washer motor (refer your owners’ manual). If that is in order, check the motor itself – you will need professional help here. It may need replacement.

Body protection
Problem: My car paint looks dull after the rains. Some areas of the body have begun to rust. What to do?
Solution: It is always good to get the car completely washed and serviced just before the rains. Then apply a good coat of wax polish on the body to protect it. Repeat the application once a month to protect the finish. Never use household detergent or soap to wash the car. Use a wax based car shampoo instead.
If you live in a coastal area, you should consider getting additional underbody anti-rust protection, which is a spray-on special coating that will protect the car from rust. Some service stations also spray used motor oil on the underside of the car in areas where there is heavy rainfall, as this provides some temporary protection – but is not a good practice as it traps dirt. Lubricate all the moving parts and door locks in the car with an anti-rust lubricant spray like WD40.

Misting up
Problem: How to prevent my windscreen from misting up on the inside in heavy rains or in cold weather?
Solution: Most cars have a windshield demister setting in the air-conditioning system. In cars with automatic climate control, just hit the demister button and you should be fine. In cars with manual HVAC controls, set the air direction switch to the windshield setting. Set the recirculation / fresh air setting to fresh air. Move the temperature control from extreme cold to a more moderate setting and switch on the AC. The AC helps to dehumidify the car and in turn demist the windshield. In extreme cold weather, you can run the AC compressor even with the temperature control set to warm for a few minutes to dehumidify the car. Drive with the fresh air setting on and air flow control set to the demister. If you don’t want to use the AC, opening the windows just a bit will help prevent misting up.
In cars that do not have a demister or even an air-conditioner, take a cake of soap and gently slide it across the inside of the dry windshield, forming a thin protective layer. This prevents mist build up on the windshield, but it can cause a few streaks on the glass.
For the rear windshield too, just directing the AC air flow towards the rear will help keep the windshield mist free. But don’t do this for too long, as if the glass becomes too cold, mist will form on the outside! Ideally, you should have a car that has a rear wiper – this is a real boon in the rains, especially for hatchbacks and SUVs, where dirty road spray obscures rear vision.

Tyre condition
Problem: My tyres tend to lose pressure in the rains. They also don’t grip as much and tend to skid on wet roads.
Solution: The rain is not really directly responsible for tyres losing pressure in rainy weather. Instead, it is the change in temperature that results from a sudden downpour that causes pressure to drop. Tyre pressures can fall as much as 1psi for every 5-10 degrees C of temperature change.
It is a good practice to inspect your tyres just before the rainy season and change them if you have less than 10% of thread left on the tyre (less than 2 mm). Tyres with a deep tread pattern have an advantage as they last longer and can siphon off water easily. Maintain the optimum tyre pressure to prevent aquaplaning. Do not speed up when driving on wet roads.

Water in Electronics
Problem: I was driving through a large puddle of water which splashed into the engine and my petrol car stalled. What to do?
Solution: Water splashing into the engine bay can be a huge issue in low-slung cars in the rains. In petrol cars, if water falls on the ignition components, it can cause the car to stall. Water on the coil or on the plugs (and distributor in older cars) can cause it to stall. You will need to get the car to a dry area, blow dry the engine with high pressure air if possible and then spray an anti-moisture lubricant spray on the electrical components. To prevent this happening, it helps to spray lubricant before you head out into the rains itself and avoid driving through large puddles.

Water in the engine (Hydro-lock)
Problem: Driving through a large puddle causes water to enter the exhaust pipe, stalling the car. Or water inundates the air filter, causing the car to stall.
Solution: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR. Car engines work on compressing air, but if water has gone into the cylinder, it cannot be compressed and will damage the valves and engine. Get the car towed to a service centre and open up the engine to clean out the water. Change the engine oil and filter. This is again a common issue with many low slung sedans. One option to prevent this happening is to raise the height of the air intake, with a sort of snorkel (that’s the reason off-road vehicles have high snorkels to easily ford water crossings).

Water in fuel (Diesel Vehicles)
Problem: The water in fuel light on the instrument panel of my diesel vehicle keeps glowing. What to do?
Solution: This is a common issue with many fuel stations in the rain, where some water tends to contaminate fuel stored in underground storage. In the car, the diesel filter is meant to take care of this. Water in fuel collects at the bottom of the diesel filter in a small chamber. When this fills up the warning light comes on. Refer your owner’s manual to locate the diesel filter. At the bottom of this will be a small screw or cap (depending on the car model), which will need to be opened to drain the water out. Blow dry with compressed air and refit. If this is done in time you won’t have problems, but if left unattended, it will lead to loss of power and sediment build up on the valves.

Preventing fungus growth on the carpets and seats
Problem: My car gets a white fungus growth on the carpets and seats in the rains. What to do?
Solution: Fungus loves dampness. But fungus also hates acidic solutions. The easiest way to get rid of fungus would be to air the car out in direct sunlight, but we’re talking about dealing with the issue in the middle of the rainy season. You could make a spray solution with white vinegar, spray it on the seats and wipe it with a towel. For the carpet, you can sprinkle boric acid powder over the affected areas, let it sit for a bit and then vacuum it up. For hard to reach areas, use a brush to remove the fungal spores.

Keeping the windshield clean
Problem: My windshield has a lot of streaks even if I clean it with a cloth, causing glare at night.
Solution: Use a water first and then a windshield cleaning spray solution to spray and wipe the windshield with a microfiber cloth. After that dampen the windshield with a little water and wipe it clean with a newspaper – not the glossy kind though. For some reason, newspaper and the newsprint in it seems to work really well in giving you a clear, glare-free windshield. But do this only on a windscreen that has already been cleaned with water, otherwise grit on the windscreen can get trapped by the paper and scratch the glass.

Clutch won't work
Problem: I just drove through the flooded road, but now I can't shift gears easily. The clutch is juddering and the gears are not shifting. What to do?
Most cars run a dry-clutch mechanism, where the clutch sits in an assembly between the engine flywheel and the transmission. This dry clutch has ventilation holes as well as a gap for the clutch cable or linkage mechanism to activate the clutch. Hydraulic clutches will have a slave cylinder that operates the clutch fork. When you drive through flooded roads, water can enter the clutch housing and wet the clutch. The clutch plates have an asbestos based friction material, that can get soaked in water and become damp. When that happens, it can stick. This stickiness results in the clutch juddering as it does not engage smoothly and if it is too damp, the clutch plates won't separate and so it become difficult to change gears. The only solution for this is to get the car to dry ground and let it dry naturally. If you don't force the clutch or the gears, you won't damage the clutch, but if you rev and try to force it, you could end up with more expensive damage. Also see: How to Identify Clutch Problems


Brakes are not working
Problem: After driving through a waterlogged road, my brakes are not holding. What to do?
This is a common problem with driving through waterlogged roads. Once you have driven through water, you need to dry out your brakes, as otherwise they will not engage. One way of doing this is to start repeatedly pumping the brakes as soon as you have crossed the flooded section of road and wait for them to bite. Or you can put your car into a lower gear (second gear), drive slowly giving constant throttle, and simultaneously apply very light pressure on the brake pedal with your left foot (be careful, as you will sometimes end up jamming the brake). This can be done in petrol cars, but some newer diesels won't allow accelerator and brake to be pressed at the same time. For these, repeatedly pumping the brakes works best.

Have a lovely Rainy August…Cheers!

Source : http://ow.ly/mATa302NGXb

# In the glove box, keep a few Handy Wipes to remove gas odor from your hands from filling the tank.
# Remove auto grease from hands with baking soda and water.
# A hubcap can be used as a shovel if your auto gets stuck in the snow, mud, or sand.
# Make a drip pan to collect oil drips by placing corrugated cardboard in a cookie sheet. Or fill a cookie sheet with kitty litter. Change as needed.
# Paint a bright color strip or use luminous tape on center of back wall to aim the car down the center of garage.
# If you have poor lighting in garage, place reflector tape on objects that might be hit.
# Use carpet strips, foam rubber, or pieces of rubber tire around support studs or framing that car doors open against.
# Never warm your car in an attached garage and never with the garage door closed.
# When tuning up your car, set the gap on spark plugs using the widest gap that the manufacturer recommends. Your car will run better, idle better, and will give you better gas mileage.
# Apply vaseline to battery posts for better contact.
# Clean hard to reach areas of your auto (dashboard, cup holders) with a dampened sponge tipped paint brush.
# If car battery terminals are heavily corroded, the quickest and easiest way to clean them is to pour carbonated soft drink over them. It will eat the corrosion away. Baking soda mixed with water will also do the trick.
# Laundry pre-wash liquid removes tar from your car's finish.
# Peanut butter has been known to remove tar from car finishes also.
# Avoid putting air in your tires if the temperature is below 10 degrees F. The valve could stick and let all of the air out of the tire.
# If wipers are beginning to wear down, you can extend their life by rubbing them briskly with sandpaper.
# Clean windshield wipers with a good scrubbing of baking soda and water.
# When do you replace automobile tires? Rotate tires every 5000-10,000 miles, and tires will last longer. Replace your tires approximately every 40,000 miles. Buy Tires on sale and save money.

# A radio antenna will slide up and down easier if a coat of wax is applied occasionally. Wax paper works great for this job. Rub the wax paper up and down the antenna, the wax from the paper will coat the antenna.
# Drop a business card (or file card with your name on it) down the window slot in case you ever need to prove ownership.
# Line your car trunk with a plastic rug protector to protect the carpeting. It will make clean up easier if dirty or greasy objects are placed in the trunk.
# Prevent rust by keeping the underside of your car clean also. Place a lawn sprinkler under your car and turn on full blast. Move occasionally so it will reach all areas. This is a good way to remove all salt and road grime.
# Leave one window open a crack to prevent frost from building up on the inside of the window.
# If you chip the paint on your car, clean promptly and apply clear nail polish to area to prevent rust.
# Remove road salt from carpet with equal amounts of vinegar and water.
# Make your own washer solvent that won't freeze by combining 1 quart of rubbing alcohol, 1 cup of water and 2 tablespoons liquid detergent. This formula won't freeze down to 35 degrees below 0.
# Remove tar from rubber car mats by dabbing a generous dose of linseed oil on tar. Let it soak for about fifteen minutes and blot with a dampened cloth.
# If car windows tend to steam up on the inside, carry a blackboard eraser in your vehicle. Wiping the condensation away with the eraser.
# Use newspaper to wipe automobile windows dry after cleaning to avoid streaks.
# Keep an auto maintenance book. Write down dates that repairs, or maintenance was done. Write down where the work was done or by whom.
# On a piece of tape write the mileage down when the next oil change is due. Attach this to your upper windshield or another convenient place to remind you when it's time to change the oil.
# Never wash your car in the sun to prevent streaking.
# A dust mop head, worn as a mitten is great for washing your car.
# Coca-cola and aluminum foil will clean rust off your car bumper.
# Remove old bumper stickers with lighter fluid. Soak stickers for a few minutes then gently remove with a razor blade.
# Clean headlights, chrome and enamel with baking soda.
# Steel wool pads with soap cleans white sidewalls the best.
# Clean splattered bugs off with baking soda and a nylon net.
# When white walls are clean use a little vinyl top wax to keep them clean longer.

Source : http://ow.ly/mtTJ302zzUl

You are welcome!

Jonwesley:
Many thanks my friend!

Dear Jonwesley, kindly visit the following links for more clarification.
http://www.settlementrdexhaustcentre.com.au/why-is-water-coming-out-of-my-cars-tailpipe/
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/why-change-oil-regularly.php
http://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/cf/oil-change/motor-oil-and-your-car/
https://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB%20MO-2004-04-03%20Oil%20Consumption.pdf
http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/engmain.html
http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/11315/what-does-a-water-like-drop-coming-out-of-the-exhaust-of-the-car-signify
Nice Weekend!

Jonwesley:
Many thanks for this piece. I have a problem with my car, golf 4. It always shortens oil to almost half if gauged before a journey of about 300-350kms. I have asked for it to be checked by servicing personnel and no seemingly answer has come from them. The Car runs well, with no black shoots, water still comes out from exhaust, no leakages of oil under the bottom plate. I have to be constantly topping it to avoid it burning out the remaining oil in the engine. What could be wrong with the car? I will appreciate your response.

Whether you’re driving alone or with passengers, safety should always be your top concern. With more distractions than ever, it’s crucial that drivers know the basics of safe driving and practice them every time they’re behind the wheel. Here are some auto safety tips to follow on the road.

Driving safety tips from Nationwide
Don't allow children to fight or climb around in your car (they should be buckled in their seats at all times). One accidental bump or too much noise can easily distract you from concentrating on driving safely.
Cell phones can also take your focus away from the task at hand: arriving safely at your destination. Learn more about the under-reporting of cell phone involvement in fatal car crashes at Nationwide’s blog: In the Nation.
Avoid driving when you're tired. Be aware that some medications can cause drowsiness and make operating a vehicle very dangerous. Get the full scoop on drowsy driving.
Always use caution when changing lanes. Cutting in front of someone, changing lanes too fast or not using your signals may cause an accident or upset other drivers.
Take extra precautions while driving during deer season.
Common Questions About Safe Driving Expand All
What should I do after a car accident?
If you're involved in an accident, first make sure no one in the car is injured. Next, check on the passengers in the other vehicle; or, if necessary, make certain that no pedestrians are hurt.
Then, take these five things into account:
Stay at the scene. Leaving can result in additional violations or fines.
Call 911 or the police as soon as possible. They'll dispatch medical personnel and a police officer immediately to the scene of the accident. Wait for the police to complete an accident report.
If you're on a busy highway, stay inside the car and wait for the police or an ambulance. It's dangerous if passengers stand along a busy street.
Don't get into an argument or a fight with the other driver. Simply exchange contact and insurance information. If possible, also get the name and phone numbers of witnesses.
Call your insurance provider to report the claim. Your agent will ask you to send any paperwork you receive regarding the accident and will give you instructions as to where you can get your car fixed.

Have a lovely weekend!

Source : https://www.nationwide.com/driving-safety-tips.jsp

Well, I would suggest that you simply flush your engine with a new and trusted engine oil. Then try out the new Engine oil and see how it can help. If you have a trusted Engine oil, it would rather enhance performance of your Car engine instead of the otherwise you fear. Also, I will recommend Castrol brands, depending on the model of your car, you can specify the configurations. I recommend Castrol Engine Oil because, I have seen the same situation with clients after which they had the result they have been looking for. There are several testimonials to that. The choice is your to make.Feel free to ask for more clarification. Thank You.

ejor1:
Did u said top up if the level is low? That's not good idea cos something contributes for the low level. My question is ,what of changing different type of oil @ different time.Assume I was using Total before and later change to some other oil does it affected the engine performance?

You are welcome FelixFred![quote author=felixfred post=47742362][/quote]

Yes we do, kindly send me an email on castrollubricants.ng@gmail.com or paulyn.ejimonye@eternaplc.com
Thank You

sooperrescue:
Do you have edge and magnatec 5w30 a1? And 5w20 edge?

Hello Sooperescue, I represent and choose all Castrol Brands because it offers the best quality for your Car. Thank You.

sooperrescue:
Which of the castrol oil are you representing?

Regular preventive maintenance is probably the single thing you can do as a car owner to keep your ride happy and save money on repairs in the future. However, not everyone agrees on what preventive maintenance is, what you should do, and when you should do it. Let's clear that up, and give you some tips that'll apply to any vehicle.

Anyone who's ever worked on cars or spent a ton of money getting their car repaired will tell you: Don't ignore preventive maintenance. The basics, like changing your oil, checking your tire pressure, and getting scheduled inspections and work done are like getting regular checkups at the doctor. They keep you healthy and give you—and the experts—a chance to catch anything serious before it becomes a major problem. With your car, that can save you thousands.

First, Read Your Owner's Manual

Pay attention to your owner's manual. Regardless of the vehicle you drive, your regular maintenance schedule is inside it, and you'll never fall for old car myths like, "You should change your oil every 3,000 miles," (unless of course, your manual says you should, and odds are it doesn't). You will, however, discover how often your manufacturer really does suggest you change your oil (it can vary widely by vehicle), your filters, any drive or timing belts in your vehicle, and more. You'll even find out whether you're putting the right gas in your vehicle or whether you're using the right kind of oil in the first place. Seriously—you wouldn't fire up a complicated piece of technology or a massive new home appliance without checking the manual to make sure you know what you're doing. Most car lovers already know how important this is, but it's still important even for people don't consider themselves interested in how their car works. If you're using the wrong oil, for example, or filling a car that calls for higher octane fuel with the lowest octane stuff you can buy, you may run the risk of voiding your warranty, and worse, causing damage that'll cost more to fix than you'd save by using the cheap stuff.

When we covered the ways you can save serious money on car repair, more than a few people pointed out that preventive maintenance is probably one of the biggest ways you can save money—not actively, but in the long term. Spending a little money now on these basics will save you from more costly repairs later on:


Five Ways to Save Serious Money on Car Repairs
If you drive, there's probably little you hate more than getting your car repaired.

Do your own inspection.
It's basic, but give your car a once-over periodically so you catch anything that looks out of the ordinary. Make sure all your lights are working. Check the air pressure in your tires every month or so (and buy a cheap tire air pressure gauge and keep it in the glove compartment). Doing so is good for your tires, gets you better mileage, and saves you money in gas if you discover that the pressure is off. Listen for any strange sounds, inside and out. Make sure your tires have enough tread. You can use a penny to do it, or look out for the wear indicators on the tire treads. If anything's out of the ordinary, don't ignore it.

Learn to check your fluids.
Even if you don't ever learn how to change your antifreeze, power steering, coolant, or even your wiper fluid (although seriously, don't let someone charge you to change wiper fluid), you should learn how to check those fluid levels. In some cases, you can see the tank level directly, but most have gauges or dipsticks you can pull out to check current levels against a notch that indicates optimal levels. Even if your owner's manual doesn't have much to say about checking your transmission fluid or antifreeze, don't be afraid to open the hood and see if you can find it. If you're running low, add more (if you can) or get it changed. Most importantly, never ignore a leak.
Inspect and get your timing and serpentine belts replaced when necessary. Many people will tell you to get your timing belt replaced every 60,000 miles or so, and your serpentine belt replaced every 40,000 miles, give or take. Again, your owner's manual will offer real numbers for your type of vehicle. If you can't find the manual, look around online. You'll probably find the actual recommendation for your car. Use it as a guideline, and ask your mechanic to inspect the belts when it gets time to replace them mileage-wise. If they're still in good shape, don't bother, but if they're worn out, get them replaced before they fail. If you wait and those belts do fail, you'll break down, and the damaged belt can damage other accessories, making the repair even more expensive.

Check your oil and get it changed regularly.
Whether your car has a dipstick to check the oil's color and oil level or the dipstick has been replaced with an electronic gauge, you should know how to check it. Knowing the difference between clean oil and muddy, murky oil will save you a ton on unnecessary changes and gives you a way to tell if something's wrong with your engine (e.g. the oil looks terrible but you just had it changed). It's hard to make a universal recommendation for how frequently you should change your oil, but the answer is—as we mentioned—in your owner's manual. Don't just blindly follow the 3,000 mile myth though—for most vehicles it can be as high as 10,000 miles, depending on the oil your vehicle calls for (something else that's in the manual).

Check your battery and clean the contacts (if necessary).
Most batteries these days don't require much in the way of maintenance, but you should know where it is and check it to make sure it's not leaking and there's no mineral or other buildup on the contacts. If there is, clean it off with a battery cleaning brush. It will set you back a couple of bucks at any auto parts or department store. Buy one and keep it in the trunk. While you're at it, consider buying a cheap battery tester or jump starter. You'll never need to call someone or wait for AAA (or a friendly passer-by) to give you a jump.
Replace your windshield wipers when the view gets streak-y. It may seem silly, but I've known several people who just ignored their wipers until they got them replaced as part of a bigger job. Wipers are cheap and easy to replace yourself. Don't wait until you can barely see through your windshield. Your visibility is important, and you wouldn't wait until you saw an optometrist to clean your glasses, would you? While you're at it, give your windshield a good cleaning inside and out—if it's hard to see, the problem may be inside, not out.
Replace your cabin air filter. Replacing a cabin air filter is probably one of the easiest things you can do to keep your car comfortable. Most vehicles make the cabin air filter easily accessible, and replacing it is as easy as opening a box. You can get a fitting filter at any auto parts store. It may not be critical to your car's operation, but it's easy, it makes the ride more pleasant, and it's a repair you'll never have to pay someone else to do.

Replace your engine air filter.
Getting to the engine air filter may be a little trickier depending on the vehicle you have, but replacing it regularly is important. Your owner's manual will give you a mileage estimate for how frequently you should replace your engine air filter, but if you can get to it, check it. If it's dirty, replace it. If you drive a ton, especially in stop-and-go traffic or have a long commute, your engine air filter may get dirtier faster than someone who drives open roads or only drives around on the weekends. If you need help or your owner's manual doesn't lay out exactly how to do it (although it should), this guide from Jalopnik can help.
Get your tires rotated and balanced, and your alignment checked. Your manual will tell you how often to do this, and it's important to do to make sure your tires wear evenly and your car drives smoothly. You can make your tires—which are expensive to replace all at once, by the way, take it from someone who's done it several times—last much longer by getting them rotated and balanced. Your alignment is just as important. If you're fighting your car to keep it straight, that's a bad situation that's easily corrected.
Change your spark plugs. If your spark plugs are worn out or covered in buildup, your engine isn't working efficiently. That can cost you money in fuel for one, but it can also lead to a breakdown. It may sound daunting, but in some cases checking and replacing them isn't that difficult. If you don't feel like doing it yourself (or it's a big and complicated job for your vehicle), follow your manual's recommendation and get them changed regularly—for most standard copper spark plugs and vehicles, that's around 30,000 miles (but again, it varies - some iridium plugs can last up to 100,000 miles).

Have a wonderful day!

Source : http://ow.ly/ZTGx302nHO9

O yes!

steveyen:
Pls do you have 10w/40 part synthetic Castrol Magnatec . 1 litre? And if yes how much? Just need to top up my engine.

lol, she was only experimenting

khattab02:
hehehehehe.......

Lol, sorry, no offences. We just need to make our Ladies feel special....don't you think so?////

kings09:
Nawa for some kind threads. So car maintenance is now gender-based

lol, the Guys can as well try tips out, cheers!

brunofarad:
Is it only for the ladies ?

You are welcome!

nickxtra:
Thanks

Hi, have you ever had your car stolen? If you have, you know the awful stuff that kind of experience puts you through. Apart from having to buy a new car, which represents a certain challenge for the home budget, it can take up a lot of time to cancel the old paperwork and get the papers for the new car. Those, also, cost. To avoid having this kind of predicament, and given the fact that time is an extremely valuable resource nowadays, I strongly advise that all of you have some security measures at hand, to help you protect your precious vehicle, or vehicles.

Car Alarms
The old-fashioned way! You know that little red light that turns on and off every second or so, and is located somewhere on the dashboard? That alone can be enough to drive off anyone bent on stealing your car, let alone the awful noise afterwards, if they still try something funny. Most of the alarms nowadays have a GPS, and are connected with the police, so they’ll have a patrol on the lookout for your car almost immediately. All of these circumstances make it highly unprofitable to even try stealing a car with an alarm. Or you can do it the southern way, if you have a pick-up. Just keep your dog in the back.


Steering Wheel Locking Systems
This is a nice way to make your car secure, although it still leaves some room for damage. It doesn’t have anything to do with the police, it doesn’t make a sound, it just locks your steering wheel in place, so the car becomes unusable. Thus, It might happen that the thief even gets into the car, hotwires it, but still can’t drive it normally without steering, so it all goes to waste for him (or her). All you have to do afterwards is repair your car door, or window, and the ignition, and you’re all good. Still, it’s a pain in a certain back part of your body.

Wheel Clamps
These are quite similar to locking systems for steering wheels, but these go on the regular wheels, and lock them down tight. If the wheels don’t move, the car doesn’t move! Seems legit. They are made out of reinforced steel, and have a sturdy, heavy-duty lock, so it takes a small bulldozer to get them off by force. So, if the thief isn’t The Hulk, he will automatically be discouraged by them. They also make clamps for your trailer. If you own one, you know how much of an asset it can be, and how awful it must feel to get it stolen. I mean, people even live in those. Combining these clamps with an alarm for your trailer makes it an impenetrable fortress for the bad guys. It also keeps your sleeping habits intact.

Insurance

This is more of a safety net, than a safety measure, but I decided to put it in as well, as it is a much needed helping hand when it comes to the security of your own well-being. Even if all the clamps, alarms and locks fail, and your car or trailer does get stolen, having insurance can help you tons! Your agent can overtake the paperwork, and you might even get some cash to help you buy a new car, or, well, anything else you might want to do with it. There’s nothing wrong with getting some money when it’s a compensation for such a bad event. Along with insurance make sure that your car is protected during transport and that you are aware aware which style of transportation suits your situation best.

Making sure that your car is safe is considered almost paramount in the modern world. Traveling by land, with our own private vehicles has become the most common means of transport. In this plurality, it becomes increasingly difficult to keep track of the movement of all the cars, trucks, busses, trailers, or bikes so getting away with stealing one of them is a lot easier. The only thing left for us, good guys, is to make sure our vehicles don’t get stolen in the first place. Mind that even if you have an alarm, or a lock, it is wise to have insurance against theft, just in case there is some really persistent guy who really likes your car.

Some workshops will advise you to get all motor oils replaced at each service interval. In actual, is this really the case? Here are the top ten facts about motor oils.
1. Motor oils do not just mean engine oil. A number of mechanical components are like transmission and brakes use their respective motor oil. Make sure to get them replaced as needed.

2. Synthetic engine oil protects your vehicle under extreme conditions. But, will not increase performance or efficiency substantially.


3. Motor oils for different components have different ratings and viscosity. Use with extreme care in case you are changing them yourself.

4. There are three types of motor oils – Mineral/regular, Semi-synthetic and Synthetic. Be sure to check for the SAE international rating to match that of the vehicle as recommended by the manufacturer.


5. High engine speeds induce more stress on vehicle components. Make sure to get motor oils checked and replaced if needed.

6. Commonly known as the ‘Dark Oil Myth’, partially dark motor oil does not indicate an oil change. However, make sure it is replaced at the right oil change interval, either after a certain number of kilometres have been covered, or in terms of sheer time lapse.

7. Service intervals and replacing motor oils vary from place to place. Make sure you consult your mechanic about the ideal time of servicing, or it is always a good idea to refer to your car’s owner’s manual.

8. While getting motor oil changed, make sure filters for the same are also replaced. They are the first line of defence against impurities and protect the component.

9. Getting motor oil changed too frequently won’t do any good. Change the oil only if it benefits the vehicle. Non-synthetic oils should undergo replacement at 5000km interval.

10. Today’s car design and equipment does not make it too easy to change the oil at home and especially the filter. It can be very tricky and might need special tools, which vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. In certain cases, accessing the oil filter may entail removal of other components from the engine bay or sump guard. So unless you are experienced with working on your car yourself, it’s a job best left to the professionals. What you can do easily do at home is top-up various oils and fluids if their level has dropped down.

Source :http://ow.ly/JF2x302htkX

Changing A Flat Tire: The chances of coming across a flat tire is greater than most mechanical issues but what’s worse than getting a flat tire is waiting on the help of someone to come and change it for you. This could save you lots of time if you simply learn how to do it yourself. Check out our Step By Step Guide on How To Change a Flat Tire.

Clean and replace worn out wiper blades. Wiper blades should be swapped out about every six months. Check for cracks regularly, and clean dirty wiper blades with a wet paper towel.

Maintenance: When you buy a car (new) immediately familiarize yourself with the owners manual booklet. If used, educate yourself through researching on the internet. Here are a few tips on taking care of your car:

Oil change: Every 3000 miles with oil filter
Under the hood: Check as frequently as possible. Once every week or every 2 weeks.
Tire rotation: Every 6,000 miles following the manufacturers rotation recommendation. If you have a matching spare, include it in the rotation as well so when it is time for change, it will run as smooth and last as long.
Align & Balance: Have car checked every 10k-12k miles or the first time you notice unusual steering or a vibration at highway speeds.
Tune up, Filters and Timing belts: Make sure you follow up with manufactures recommendations
Gas Gas Gas Gas Gas: Regular gasoline is adequate for most subcompact cars and SUV’s but for luxury vehicles, (Cadillac, Mercedes, Audi’s etc), premium gas is usually always recommended.
-The heavier the weight inside of the car, the more power the engine will need to move the car. Weight indeed affects your gas. If you are traveling with lots of people or toting around luggage, expect your gas to run out a little faster. However, having your gas limit at the half or above will allow your car to run a bit smoother.

Brakes: Sometimes we get so caught up in our day to day habits that we don’t pay attention to our car until there’s a major issue. One thing that can cost you a lot if not caught before hand are brakes. Pay attention to the sound your breaks make while driving. If you begin to hear squealing, it’s probably time to change your pads. Always be aware that while driving stay another car distance behind the car which is in front of you so when it comes time to stop, you will ease into it. Don’t drive so close that you have to slam on your breaks every 3 seconds (texting and driving causes this as well so keep your phone out of your hands).

When you take care of your car properly, your car will take care of you. Unless the car had a lot of issues to begin with, you can avoid spending lots of money with auto knowledge. So do some research, read your manual and treat your car like it’s your child.