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The Radiator is an important piece of the car’s coolant system, and it functions to help keep the car from overheating. We have all seen the image of a car pulled off to the side of the road with steam pouring out of the hood. Maybe it has even happened to you. But do you know what caused this predicament? There is a good chance it occurred because of an overheated engine. A car engine functions through a series of moving parts, creating a great deal of friction. The friction means there is excess heat energy, not to mention the heat from fuel burned in the engine. A car engine ideally runs between 180 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit, hotter than this and the engine will start to overheat. Naturally, we want to avoid this scenario, and as long as the car’s radiator is functioning properly there is a good chance we will be able to.
The radiator is located behind the grill of a car and contains a liquid made up of 50 percent water and 50 percent coolant/antifreeze (usually ethylene glycol). The coolant/antifreeze allows the water to keep from boiling at temperatures as high as 275 degrees Fahrenheit and keep from freezing at temperatures as low as 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The terms coolant and antifreeze can be used interchangeably. The entire mixture is usually referred to as coolant or antifreeze but it is important to note that the fluid in your radiator is half water too. While the radiator itself has no electronic parts, a thermostat near the engine gauges the engine temperature and when it starts to get too hot, allows the radiator to push coolant through the engine chambers. The coolant conducts the heat away from the engine and travels from the engine through the upper radiator hose into the radiator. The radiator has a large surface area, which helps the coolant temperature to lower as it travels through the radiator’s coils. Cool air coming in through the grill also plays a crucial role in cooling the liquid. Once the liquid’s temperature has been sufficiently lowered it travels through the radiator’s lower hose back to the engine and the process is repeated.
Now that we know how crucial the radiator is we want to be sure to keep it running properly. A radiator should last 8 to 10 years. In older cars, it was likely the radiator would last the life of a car. Although this can still happen with modern vehicles, it is less likely because radiators are currently being built with plastic, as opposed to the older metal versions, which is susceptible to cracks after years of hot and cold exposure. There are a couple of things you can do to ensure that your radiator lasts as long as possible. The first is to make sure that the radiator always has the proper level of coolant. When the radiator overheats coolant escapes. Coolant can also be lost through leaks. Without enough coolant, the liquid will boil over, causing damage not only to the radiator but also the engine. It is especially important to maintain the right amount of coolant during hot weather and long trips, as both of these make the car more prone to overheat. Many cars have a separate coolant reservoir to pour the coolant into. If not, the coolant is poured directly into the radiator. Remember though, the liquid you want in your radiator or reservoir is half coolant, half water. You can buy a premade mixture or buy straight coolant and mix it yourself. Consult your manual for instructions on filling coolant, and be sure the engine is completely cool. NEVER open the radiator cap while the engine is hot! Serious injury could result if you do. If you notice your car is consistently low on coolant, it is likely you have a leak, perhaps in the radiator or one of the hoses. The best thing to do is take your car to a reliable mechanic. Even small leaks can lead to big and expensive problems if left unchecked. The other key component to a long radiator life is to flush out the coolant system regularly. Check your car manual to see how often this is. Flushing the system ensures that coolant can flow freely and parts of the engine and radiator will not be too hot. If you notice your engine overheating, it may mean you have a problem with your radiator, or some other part of the cooling system. Taking your car to the mechanic is the only way to know for sure.



Good luck and cool driving!

Morning Fellas,

I want you to know that your for any Ford products starts from noticing minor problems ranging from electrical to major issues that can really ground this beautiful and powerful machine.
I want to share my experience with you on my car's gasket problem, which honestly took me almost around every roadside mechanic around Lagos. initially it was an increase in temperature rate and I was advised to change the radiator despite not leaking or blocked that its the major cause of the high temperature. I listened to their advise and changed it only for the problem to continue. As a normal norm of a Lagos car user, I quickly looked for solution elsewhere unfortunately a recommended solution remains same radiator.
Finally I had a recipe from a professional automobile repair coy which thoroughly did a systematic check on my vehicle and found out that it was a sign of the gasket flattening. I was like wow! How could this be, but seriously I gave a green light to go ahead and get it checked and hopefully fixed. To my amazement, it was checked confirmed it was the gasket changed and further repairs and precautionary repair measures where done and now I can poudly tell you my vehicle is working and no cause to scare of high temperature.
What am I driving at? Taking up your beautiful and strong machine for check in a professional coy would not only safe you from going back and forth, but would safe you financially from having to pay for same problem often times. Our care for our machines is like taking ones health seriously and I believe no one would take one's health to a quack doctor. Lastly, a simple observation like noticing the increase in temperature could save the engine from total damage.

good luck guys!!!

@babestell...Please take note the period in which you notice the screeching sound and secondly what kind of car are we looking at?

@moscobabs...First of all I hope where your car is parked is not exposed to water or any other liquid that could bring up the pad rusting? if no, there I can tell you that you need not be worried from experience, but if it were to be an area in which water could easily penetrate or the car is exposed to liquid i.e rainfall, marshy areas, then there is cause for alarm because the penetration of liquid to the brake pads allows for rusty surface and this may endanger its qualitative output when used.

Morning Fellas,

I want you to know that your for any Ford products starts from noticing minor problems ranging from electrical to major issues that can really ground this beautiful and powerful machine.
I want to share my experience with you on my car's gasket problem, which honestly took me almost around every roadside mechanic around Lagos. initially it was an increase in temperature rate and I was advised to change the radiator despite not leaking or blocked that its the major cause of the high temperature. I listened to their advise and changed it only for the problem to continue. As a normal norm of a Lagos car user, I quickly looked for solution elsewhere unfortunately a recommended solution remains same radiator.
Finally I had a recipe from a professional automobile repair coy which thoroughly did a systematic check on my vehicle and found out that it was a sign of the gasket flattening. I was like wow! How could this be, but seriously I gave a green light to go ahead and get it checked and hopefully fixed. To my amazement, it was checked confirmed it was the gasket changed and further repairs and precautionary repair measures where done and now I can poudly tell you my vehicle is working and no cause to scare of high temperature.
What am I driving at? Taking up your beautiful and strong machine for check in a professional coy would not only safe you from going back and forth, but would safe you financially from having to pay for same problem often times. Our care for our machines is like taking ones health seriously and I believe no one would take one's health to a quack doctor. Lastly, a simple observation like noticing the increase in temperature could save the engine from total damage.

good luck guys!!!

First of all I need to know the model year you intend going for so as to give you adequate information, also you need know that all Ford model are manufactured based on development of each other. I did be awaiting your response.

You can expect to have to replace front discs and pads during a vehicle's life due to wear but are more likely to have to replace rear pads and discs because of corrosion. If you only use your car a little and always keep it in a garage rust is more likely to set in.

Braking systems rely on friction to bring the vehicle to a halt – hydraulic pressure pushes brake pads against a cast iron disc or brake shoes against the inside of a cast iron drum.

When a vehicle is decelerated, load is transferred to the front wheels – this means that the front brakes do most of the work in stopping the vehicle.

Considerable heat is created during braking and for effective operation this heat must be dissipated fairly quickly. Disc brakes are more efficient and their more open design compared to drums means they are much less susceptible to overheating.

When disc brakes were first fitted to all four wheels – initially to large cars and small sports models – a small drum brake was incorporated into the centre of the rear hubs for the parking brake.

As 'discs all round' has become commonplace, parking brake design has moved on and many now work by applying pads directly to the main discs – eliminating the need for a separate drum parking brake.

You might find it more difficult to apply and release a parking brake operating on a disc so it's important to check the operation of the parking brake when you test drive a new car.

Electrically operated parking brakes on newer cars may take a while to get used. The handbook will show a special release procedure to use if the car battery is flat.

With most of the braking force done by the front brakes, any surface rust is quickly cleaned off by the action of the pads on the discs.

Braking effort is much lower on the rear, especially on a small, light vehicle and may not be sufficient to clean corrosion from the surface of rear discs, particularly if the vehicle is used only infrequently and for local trips.

Corrosion is generally not a problem with rear drum brakes.

Initial, light corrosion can be cleaned off under reasonably heavy braking, but if left, this light corrosion gets worse and can lead to surface pitting which is acceptable as long as it does not seriously weaken the discs.
Surface pitting

This used to be a reason for MOT test failure but data available following the introduction of the computerised MOT showed that too many cars were failing the test on 'brake discs pitted' even though this was not sufficient to weaken the disc.

If you only use your car a little, you may need to pay the rear discs special consideration – putting a wet car away in the garage means it's going to spend lots of time in a damp atmosphere for rust to set in.

Front discs will wear and eventually become too thin. For safety reasons, vehicle manufacturers specify a minimum thickness for brake discs and when they reach this point, the discs must be replaced (discs should always be replaced in pairs). Pads must be renewed at the same time.
Distortion

Uneven heating and cooling can cause the disc to change shape and this can be detected as a juddering back through the pedal when the brakes are applied.

Thinner/worn discs are more likely to warp than newer, thicker discs.

You can expect to have to replace front discs and pads during a vehicle's life due to wear but are more likely to have to replace rear pads and discs because of corrosion. If you only use your car a little and always keep it in a garage rust is more likely to set in.

Braking systems rely on friction to bring the vehicle to a halt – hydraulic pressure pushes brake pads against a cast iron disc or brake shoes against the inside of a cast iron drum.

When a vehicle is decelerated, load is transferred to the front wheels – this means that the front brakes do most of the work in stopping the vehicle.

Considerable heat is created during braking and for effective operation this heat must be dissipated fairly quickly. Disc brakes are more efficient and their more open design compared to drums means they are much less susceptible to overheating.

When disc brakes were first fitted to all four wheels – initially to large cars and small sports models – a small drum brake was incorporated into the centre of the rear hubs for the parking brake.

As 'discs all round' has become commonplace, parking brake design has moved on and many now work by applying pads directly to the main discs – eliminating the need for a separate drum parking brake.

You might find it more difficult to apply and release a parking brake operating on a disc so it's important to check the operation of the parking brake when you test drive a new car.

Electrically operated parking brakes on newer cars may take a while to get used. The handbook will show a special release procedure to use if the car battery is flat.

With most of the braking force done by the front brakes, any surface rust is quickly cleaned off by the action of the pads on the discs.

Braking effort is much lower on the rear, especially on a small, light vehicle and may not be sufficient to clean corrosion from the surface of rear discs, particularly if the vehicle is used only infrequently and for local trips.

Corrosion is generally not a problem with rear drum brakes.

Initial, light corrosion can be cleaned off under reasonably heavy braking, but if left, this light corrosion gets worse and can lead to surface pitting which is acceptable as long as it does not seriously weaken the discs.
Surface pitting

This used to be a reason for MOT test failure but data available following the introduction of the computerised MOT showed that too many cars were failing the test on 'brake discs pitted' even though this was not sufficient to weaken the disc.

If you only use your car a little, you may need to pay the rear discs special consideration – putting a wet car away in the garage means it's going to spend lots of time in a damp atmosphere for rust to set in.

Front discs will wear and eventually become too thin. For safety reasons, vehicle manufacturers specify a minimum thickness for brake discs and when they reach this point, the discs must be replaced (discs should always be replaced in pairs). Pads must be renewed at the same time.
Distortion

Uneven heating and cooling can cause the disc to change shape and this can be detected as a juddering back through the pedal when the brakes are applied.

Thinner/worn discs are more likely to warp than newer, thicker discs.

Hello ford users,

Welcome to ford talk forum. With my experience using ford explorer and other ford products spanning 6years now has been an amazing one. It's quite surprising whenever I hear friends talk about common problems of ford and so on. The truth is, this is one of United States' best vehicular technology. Don't get me wrong, there may be problems but I can assure you such problems are never discouraging.Therefore this forum is dedicated basically for ford vehicle users of different models and specifications so I can share experiences of rare and common problems of ford cars, jeeps and proffer solutions and advises will be given. So folks, feel free to ask questions or seek advise on maintenance as am very ready to deal with this issues with no cost.
Thanks.

Hello ford users,

Welcome to ford talk forum. With my experience using ford explorer and other ford products spanning 6years now has been an amazing one. It's quite surprising whenever I hear friends talk about common problems of ford and so on. The truth is, this is one of United States' best vehicular technology. Don't get me wrong, there may be problems but I can assure you such problems are never discouraging.Therefore this forum is dedicated basically for ford vehicle users of different models and specifications so I can share experiences of rare and common problems of ford cars, jeeps and proffer solutions and advises will be given. So folks, feel free to ask questions or seek advise on maintenance as am very ready to deal with this issues with no cost.
Thanks.

Hello ford users,

Welcome to ford talk forum. With my experience using ford explorer and other ford products spanning 6years now has been an amazing one. It's quite surprising whenever I hear friends talk about common problems of ford and so on. The truth is, this is one of United States' best vehicular technology. Don't get me wrong, there may be problems but I can assure you such problems are never discouraging.Therefore this forum is dedicated basically for ford vehicle users of different models and specifications so I can share experiences of rare and common problems of ford cars, jeeps and proffer solutions and advises will be given. So folks, feel free to ask questions or seek advise on maintenance as am very ready to deal with this issues with no cost.
Thanks.

Hello Ford users,

Welcome to Ford talk forumWith my experience using Ford explorer and other Ford products spanning 6years now has been an amazing one. It's quite surprising whenever I hear friends talk about common problems of Ford and so on. The truth is, this is one of United States' best vehicular technology. Don't get me wrong, there may be problems but I can assure you such problems are never discouraging.Therefore this forum is dedicated basically for Ford vehicle users of different models and specifications so I can share experiences of rare and common problems of Ford cars, jeeps and proffer solutions and advises will be given. So folks, feel free to ask questions or seek advise on maintenance as am very ready to deal with this issues with no cost.
Thanks.