₦airaland Forum

QuinQQ:
Passport. I wanta ship passport

International passport?

MarketDispatch:
Congratulations on your new business

thank you

QuinQQ:
Ha much, by air or ship, how long?

it depends on the location , size and weight of what you intend to ship. Thank you . contact the WhatsApp line for more details

Need to send a package from Nigeria to anywhere in the world? We've got you covered.

Contact us today via call or WhatsApp for enquiries. Thank you.

lyort:
Please chat me on whatsapp

08145186824

i will contact you asap , incase of any other suggestions from members. bellow is the full live data at idle position. i don't think this should lead to aggressive 10 MPG on a 1.8 litter engine. I believe that a slight under or over reporting on sensors is normal on old cars.


Engine Load & Manifold Data
• Calculated Engine Load (Idle, P Gear): 30.0% – 36.0%
• Absolute Load Value: 22.0%
• Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP): 33 – 40 kPa
• Barometric Pressure: 99 kPa
Fuel Trims (The "Rich" Indicator)
• Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT): -12.0% to -22.0%
• Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT): -17.0% to -21.0%

Air & Temperature Sensors
• Mass Air Flow (MAF) Reading: 2.5 – 3.6 g/s
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT): I move to 86°C – 96°C within 12 minutes, fan returned to factory settings
• O2 Sensor Voltage: 0.1V – 0.9V (Oscillating)
Throttle & Pedal Position
• Relative Throttle Position: 2.4%
• Absolute Throttle Position B: 30.6%
• Accelerator Pedal Position D: 20.8%
• Accelerator Pedal Position E: 10.2%
System Health & EVAP
• Control Module Voltage: 14.0V
• Commanded Evaporative Purge: 36.0%
• EVAP System Vapor Pressure: -53 Pa
• Spark Plug Condition: Healthy brown (no soot/blackness) and I never had any problem starting my car in the morning

lyort:
Send me an email

done. check your mail

lyort:
I don't buy them new, i mostly buy from the engine sellers, they take out the thermostat from engines that their thermostat housing is broken. But for Toyotas Ghanaman is the sure plug. I lost his contact a while ago but I can get it to you soon

I also need a plug for reliable thermostat in ladipo( honda civic)

Louiscars:
On idle what is the gm/sec of the Maf sensor
Also what voltage does the upstream 02 sensor give also

my maf is between 2.5 to 3.6 g/s and o2 reading is between 0.1 and 0.9v.i believer these are normal. My point is, over and under - reporting of these should not be doing 10 MPG for a 1.8 liter engine..

Calculated engine load around 31%. Intake MAP 33kpa

Y

Louiscars:
When the car has gotten to operating temp do a video of the short term fuel trim value

I will do a video but from what have seen, the stft at operating temperature hover around -3 to -14 and sometimes as high as - 24.have seen minus - 48 before. But quickly return back. I also expect my fuel trim to be lower at optimum but nothing has changed.
If I start up in the morning, my ltft will initially rise to as high - 21 and later settle at - 17 or - 18, no matter the distance covered.

The rate at which my stft jump at times is so aggressive. Something very serious is happening somewhere that sensors replacement can't correct

lyort:
Looks like the owner got rid of it for this reason and you became the unlucky buyer. Are there any past scan results? Please post

You can as well contact me since you're on the mainland.

P0128(returned to factory fan setting with thermostat) ,

p0497(purge valve replaced) ,

p2413(egr replaced) ,

p2185 (ect2 replaced).

Message sent

lyort:
Sometimes these acts stem out of ignorance and for some long term misinformation. I was buying a thermostat at a well know shop at ladipo and this mid-aged mechanic man kept staring at me in shock and I knew in his mind he was like "how can someone be buying what we perpetually remove to prevent damage". So he took the boldness to ask why I was buying the thermostat to install in my car(didn't know I'm a technician cos I don't dress like one each time I go to the market) So I took my time to explain to him what it does, it advantages and how it's absence greatly affect both fuel and lubrication efficiency. It was like veil removed from his eyes the way he payed attention to everything I said. I hope he becomes the doer of the message I preached to him.

Car you drop the contact or your thermostat plug in ladipo?

lyort:
So sorry you're experiencing this, was there any major repair carried out prior to this problem?

I bought it from someone last year and didn’t notice any signs of major repairs. I’ve been using it since then. I also went with an expert who confirmed that the engine and body were in good condition. At the time, I only saw two codes related to the EGR and ECT2 sensors.
Additionally, the fan was running directly, so I reset it to factory settings, thinking that would solve the issue. This doesn’t seem like a mechanical problem. It appears to be purely electrical.

Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . That's around 10 MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic/rewire to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland, I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . that's around 10MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland .I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . that's around 10MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland . I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

chillex8:
LTFT is learned over time from your driving pattern and engine performance.....
That you are getting -18 after an ecu reset is normal. Drive around for days and report back.

The temperature rating is indicated on the thermostat.

I feel the thermostat is stuck open. However, remove and physically inspect it.
I'm assuming it was installed properly and your cooling system bled.

That aside, it isn't soley responsible for the poor mpg.

What is your idle rpm after warmup?

Idle rpm after warm up is around 750. Do you also suggest that I must get the OEM new thermostat to be on a safe side?

chillex8:
You can always test the thermostat in boiling water before installing.
What is the temperature rating of this new thermostat?
It should be 87deg.

P0128 won't cause engine vibrations.
Have you done a tune up?( Spark plugs, air filter, etc)

Your fuel trim numbers are ok.

What's your idle rpm at warm up?

I honestly don't know the temperature rating of this thermostat. It was bought tokunbo and the rewire just fix it immediately. I later realize that the code had refused to go and the upper radiator hose always become too hot at around 60 degree.
Average fuel trim of around - 18 LTFT is not normal sir

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some technical insight on a persistent fuel consumption issue (currently getting only 10 MPG) on my 2006 Honda Civic. I have already restored the cooling fan to factory settings and installed a new thermostat, but P0128 (thermostat below regulating temperature) keeps returning and the car vibrates. I have confirmed that the vibration is not coming from my mounts.



I performed a cold-start test today with my scanner to watch the Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) vs. Coolant Temp (ECT). Here is the data:

At 34°C (Startup): Upper radiator hose was at ambient temp. STFT was extremely rich, fluctuating between -12% and -22%.

At 60°C: The upper radiator hose became very hot and untouchable.

At 96°C: Cooling fans triggered normally. STFT finally stabilized between -3% and -5%. LTFT immediately improved from -20% to -17%. Engine load at this point revolves around 36%

My Analysis:
Since the upper hose is getting hot at only 60°C, I suspect the new thermostat is opening much too early or stuck open (it should stay closed until ~78°C I guess). This seems to be keeping the car in "cold-start" enrichment mode for too long, causing the massive negative fuel trims and poor MPG.

I previously had other codes pointing to the EGR valve and ECT sensor which I sorted by replacing the part's and codes disappeared

My Questions :

Given that the trims improve once the car finally hits 96°C, am I right to assume the thermostat is the "smoking gun"?

My local "rewire" says I can only find "Tokunbo" thermostat, but I’m worried about reliability. Has anyone had success with specific aftermarket brands for the R18 engine, or is OEM the only way to clear P0128?

Could this "rich" condition be the cause of a heavy vibration that worsens when the AC is turned on?

Thanks for the help! abeg, I dey average like 2 miles per liter of FUEL. I don tire

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some technical insight on a persistent fuel consumption issue (currently getting only 10 MPG) on my 2006 Honda Civic. I have already restored the cooling fan to factory settings and installed a new thermostat, but P0128(thermostat below regulating temperature) keeps returning and the car vibrates. I have confirmed that the vibration is not coming from my mounts.



I performed a cold-start test today with my scanner to watch the Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) vs. Coolant Temp (ECT). Here is the data:

At 34°C (Startup): Upper radiator hose was at ambient temp. STFT was extremely rich, fluctuating between -12% and -22%.

At 60°C: The upper radiator hose became very hot and untouchable.

At 96°C: Cooling fans triggered normally. STFT finally stabilized between -3% and -5%. LTFT immediately improved from -20% to -17%. Engine load also revolves around 36% at iidle

My Analysis:
Since the upper hose is getting hot at only 60°C, I suspect the new thermostat is opening much too early or stuck open (it should stay closed until ~78°C I guess). This seems to be keeping the car in "cold-start" enrichment mode for too long, causing the massive negative fuel trims and poor MPG.

I previously had other codes pointing to the EGR valve and ECT sensor which I sorted by replacing the part's and codes disappeared

My Questions :

Given that the trims improve once the car finally hits 96°C, am I right to assume the thermostat is the "smoking gun"?

My local "rewire" says I can only find "Tokunbo" (used) parts thermostat , but I’m worried about reliability. Has anyone had success with specific aftermarket brands for the R18 engine, or is OEM the only way to clear P0128?

Could this "rich" condition be the cause of a heavy vibration that worsens when the AC is turned on?

Thanks for the help! abeg, I dey average like 2 miles per liter of FUEL. I don tire

Any argent serving abule egba axis?

thank you

Kaymax2222:
sure
08086085103
The guy dey down down for borno way na him boy number be that cause he himself no dey dey

Kaymax2222:
invalid argument.........I already gave you the number of a direct importer in oyigbo call am.......shebi you even see 300k R18 engine you can't see any eod engine at that price range at all

Can you share this importer number with me?

Kumuyiii:
Grade 1 untampered engine 400k... Gregorymichael65@gmail.com, dm with ur 20k bet

Check your mail bro

This is not true oo. civic engine is between 400 and 450k for Oyingbo

Kumuyiii:
It's only better in fuel economy chief...
Civic gearbox is 650k
Engine 650k

Eod
Gearbox 350k
Engine 500k

Facing a similar issue. I now regret getting this car despite all the positive things I heard before buying it. Imagine doing 23 miles with 11 litres(8mpg) of fuel. I have replaced almost everything related to the codes, yet this demon won’t stop consuming fuel. Getting just 3.5 km per litre is simply too much. I give up

Keky:
Yes

Can I move my earnings from geegpay to my domiciliary account ? Is that a good idea considering the fact that Upwork has the direct wire at $50

Am seeing 3 withdrawal options

1 direct to local bank (NGN) at 0.99 USD per withdrawal

2. Wire transfer at 50USD per wire

3 free deposit to US bank


Can geegpay account work for the 3 option of free deposit ?

sandammy:
It seems you're not ready to fix the fan running directly. I use the same car, also bought mine with fan connected directly.

Mine was so bad that the fans were not even using any separate relays, they connected a long wire from my ignition under the dashboard, drilled a hole to the bonnet passing through the air filter box and to the fans. The car will want to overheat on a sunny day with AC on because the fans are not spinning the way they ought to.

I took her to a rewire who redirected the fans to be using specified relays, 2 relays one for each fan though still connected directly and I realised that my fuel consumption increased. I never achieved optimal working temperature. The temperature bars should reach 9 when it's optimal, I can drive the car from Lagos to Ibadan with mad traffic and achieve just 5 bars of temperature gauge.

I've asked more than 5 rewires to help me return the fan to factory settings but all the excuse they gave was "we don't know the reason the fans were connected directly or it may later develope negative side effect" but I was adamant and never gave up until I told my part sellers in oyingbo about it.

He introduced a rewire to me, who did the conversion back to factory settings in less than 1 hour. All I did was buying a thermostat and one or 2 relays that were bad. Now my fans only spins at moderate speed when the engine needs cooling, and the speed increases when I put on the AC. My engine is always at the required working temperature and fuel consumption is great.
Sorry for the long epistle.
Attached was my temperature gauge from Ibadan to Lagos. Look at the time stamp on that picture. That was January.

How was the fuel consumption before returning the fan to factory setting? With fan running directly, my temperature gauge will reach half or a little high up. Ready to return to factory setting but most rewire around don't want to take the risk Can I have your number pls

Jegheter:
Please what car do u drive

2006 honda civic

TV

Gentlelife50:
Na waooo, may Jehovah be with you.
Car frustration no be here, one of the wahala with buying naija used cars.
I pray you get if right.

Thank you sir. Am already frustrated

Gentlelife50:
I thought someone suggested oyinbo for you?
Besides this issue of car consuming fuel can be dramatic, u see fuel consumption and AC wahala pray they don't remember you.
But has the car being like that or it just started or you just bought the car and discovered the issue?

Just bought and discovered sir.... Am far from Oyingbo sir.

Lastly, the ac problem still dey but let me solve this fuel wahala before ac...

Jegheter:
+234 802 356 2162 Mutiu. His shop is opposite Mobil Oba Ogunji way inward pencinema. That mechanic village/cement depot opposite MOBIL BEFORE lsdpc estate. He uses advance scanners. He has sorted me out down to catalytic converter 2 years back wen I was using 06 Corolla. Even the present car I use is maintained by him I have no light on my dashboard and He will do same for u which sud be d aim of drivers to help improve car workability.

Note he can be pricey as he uses original parts. I just serviced my gear and 4 liters WS was 85k. And I needed 6Litres. He will never uses fake oil even if u tell him to use it. Rather he will point u to where u MUST buy original oil so u buy it ya self. Na so d guy dey work oo.

He couldn't solve my problem. I just wasted money. He even suggested that I leave the fan direct which many believe to be reason the car is consuming so much fuel ltft -21. I will need another experienced mechanic close to ogba so abule Egba