Is this normal? When I connect this active balancer to my 4S battery pack, it blinks four red lights and then stops. I thought the lights were supposed to remain stable.
Get a tokunbo replacement if you can afford it. You can also settle for the China new ones too which are cheaper and you'll have nothing to worry about. The two suggestions saves you stress and headaches. All those rubbish these guys put into the exhaust system and call it catalyst does more harm than good to your vehicle.
N:B. If your car is between 2002-2008, catalyst in these vehicles for those years are strictly for emission control and has nothing to do with fuel efficiency or anything else.
It is a 2008 Acura MDX. Does this mean the catalytic converter is unnecessary if my primary concern is fuel efficiency?
I discovered that my catalytic converters are missing. My mechanic recommended constructing an alternative setup instead of buying new catalytic converters, as they might be stolen again in the future. Should I proceed with this suggestion?
Cryomancer: Whoever told you that loves you so much and doesn't want you to waste money.
Those stock stereos are called "Stock" for a reason, because they were tuned by sound producing companies like Mark Levinson, Harman kardon and the like.
Takeaway that stock and you get a less quality sound. But you can still buff your sound by installing some aftermarket amplifiers, but e no still fit be like stock.
I maintained my stock stereo and added a Bluetooth 12v AUX input I got from AliExpress and it serves me right.
officialfestus: disconnect it and drop a feedback today.
I didn't use it in my 4S setup. OV wire in BMS got burnt. Buck converter was set to 16v. The system failed around evening. BMS cutoff current. I had to disconnect before I saw the burnt wire. Charge in 4s packs are not equal. I will stop till my active balancer arrives then buck converter will be set to 14.8. Nothing more than that.
Purpose: To power an entire house Configuration: 3s70p (210 x 18650 batteries) Voltage: 11.1V Connection: Solar panel → Buck converter → PWM solar charge controller → Battery with 3s BMS → 3000W pure sine wave inverter. Performance: Current cut off at 10.5V when powering a fan or a 12W bulb at night. Status: Failed to meet its intended purpose.
Second Build
Configuration: 4s56p (224 batteries) Voltage: 14.8V, 13.8 when powered. BMS Cutoff: 10.5V Observation: PWM solar charge controllers are not suitable for lithium batteries as they drain the battery instead of charging it.
Next Step:
Tomorrow, I will test the following setup to evaluate its success: Solar panel → Buck converter → Battery with BMS → Inverter.
olaztek: The buck converter is designed to supply constant voltage / constant current and it's good for charging Lithium battery.
Before connecting the battery, set the output voltage to 12.7v with the help of a multimeter/voltage meter, Then connect the battery, the green light will immediately change to blue light to indicate charging.
Once the battery reaches 12.7v, the green light will turn on to indicate full charge. The buck converter Will not overcharge the battery beyond the set voltage.
And one advantage of the buck converter over pwm cc is that it can be connected to any number of solar power rating be it 100w, 500w or 1000w and it won't burn out because it has a current limiting function ( you should know how to set the charging current within the buck converter limit - 8amp)
I connected my buck converter to solar charge controller and then from charge controller to battery. But, I noticed that the solar charge controller doesn’t display full bar. Bar is always 1 or 2 after a whole sunny day. At night it is empty and most times cutoff at 10.5v. Do you think the charge controller is preventing the battery from charging full? What is the best connection for maximum full charge?
Iinnov8: Our vision is Value-first, even before profit. That is why we are ALWAYS brainstorming ways to add value, so we are now introducing an INSURANCE programme on our EASun 3000w inverter.
This programme aims to ensure little to no downtime in the event of a failure. We know how expensive fuel is now, so that means downtimes are equally expensive!
This is how it will work: You buy our EASun 3000w inverter and it gets damaged by lightening, wrong connection or any other external factor, for example. You send it back to us and we will instantly give you the EASun 1600w version to use as a stop-gap while we repair your 3000w. You pay for just the repairs, get back your 3000w inverter and return our 1600w inverter. Terms and Conditions apply
We stock the parts of our inverters, have a capable technical hand that handles our repairs and we have achieved a 100% repair success rate on our EASun3000w inverter. Of course we have testimonies to back up our claims. Picture shows the feedback from Ricky.M, a Nairalander, after repairing his inverter
Video shows our inverter in action, and you can follow our thread to read lots of reviews and testimonies from users.
Normal price: 99,000 Price with INSURANCE: 112,000
Etosha: Buy anti rust( hydrocloric acid). It's the same thing is used to to clean tiles. You can get it from those that sells tiles. Deep the clothe in water, then put drops of the anti rust on the affected spot. The rust color should change immediately. Pour some water over it to wash it off. Then, leave it in the water for about 10min( to neutralize the acid. If not ur clothe will tear during ironing). Dry it after that.
It is toxic. Anyone who wants to use it should make sure no part of their body touches it.