₦airaland Forum

deife:
Good morning great people. I am based in Lagos. Please I have a Mazda 3 hatchback 2007 model When driving and revving it the tachometer shows high (at times getting to the red zone) but it doesn't accelerate and jerks too. Please does Mazda have a service centre in Lagos? I would be grateful if you shared the address with me. If not, is there a Mazda technician who can check the body control module of the car and solve the problem?

Your swift response will be greatly appreciated.

Call Mr Kenny - 09099724210
He is at ladipo and very good with Mazda.
His shop is directly opposite where the cheese ball factory is.

jceesquare:
I understand how draining the thought of replacing an entire transmission because of a failing tiny component could be.
The DIY way of testing those solenoid valves here is by sending 12v to them and listen for it's click.

Thanks bro, I have tested them and they clicked well.
They also have good resistance.

The matter tire me jare.
Changing a whole transmission because of ordinary solenoid that cant be identified.
Youtube video is pointing to the solenoid A and B. (The twin solenoid)

aieromon:
What type of scanner? Not every scanner is able to read transmission codes.

CRP something something sha.
Not sure if the full name

kelvinmnet:
Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

Hello House, any help with this?

Sheuns:
It can be any of these. Just try save up for a new gear while managing this one. If you decided to go for a fix, they may charge you over 100k and the gear may still pack up after a few weeks.

Also when going to buy the gear, I’ll advise you go with a trusted mechanic to get a decent one. Remember, the gear you’re also buying is used and you can’t be 100% sure how much life it has left in it.

Thanks bro.
The image you sent, is it located inside the tranny?
Like when I remove the sump cover, will I find it Inside?
If yes, then I don't mind doing the experiment myself. Removing and testing the solenoids. I may be lucky to find the faulty one.
However, from videos I have seen online, it's pointing to the twin solenoid on the tranny.

jceesquare:
The issue with your transmission is most definitely a failing pressure valve in the transmission.
That stuff might not help.
But you're free to give a try.

Thanks bro, just trying to exhaust all possible cheap options and also trying to buy time till I am able to save up for another tranny.

I suspect same thing too, just that I can't identify which exactly. After scanning the tranny, there's no error code. I washed and clicked the she solenoids on the tranny, same thing.

However, when the car has been driven for few minutes and has warned up, the tranny works perfectly well, selects well and fast.

So in my thinking, a pressure valve is failing but I don't know which it is and I feel like this is a small issue to go buy a new tranny for...only if I can identify the faulty or failing component.

If I open the sump, are there solenoids in there?
On the external body of the tranny, how many sensors are there that I can test?
Kindly assist.
Thanks.

IdaraCHODB:
Most obliged for the recommendation! Hope your transmission does shift better!!

Just seeing this now..

Hope your transmission shifts better?
I also want to get the Lubegard.

Baldmarv:
Thanks, I’ve resolved the issue with “ Lubegard instant shudder fixx”

Just bought it today and drove a bit and the shudder is gone. Let’s see how long it lasts.

Bro, where can I get this in Nigeria.
My 07 accord tranny jerks.

Probably this will help solve the issue.

Thanks.

[quote author=Baldmarv post=131138670][/quote]Hello bro, please where can I get this item?
My transmission slips.

Jerks when going from 1 to 2 and vice versa.
Probably this item will help till I am able to save up and buy another tranny.

Sheuns:
It’s a gear slippage problem. A sensor inside the gear is faulty. On YouTube it is fixable, but our mechanics here aren’t are careful as those abroad, so they’ll ask you to get a new gearbox.

That’s my advice for you as well. Don’t bother opening the transmission in hope of fixing it, try to save up and get a replacement.

Thanks bro.
I checked Oyingbo over the weekend and was told the tranny is 350k right now.
Tranny was 250k as at March this year.

Any idea on the name of the sensor inside the tranny causing the slippage?
I have scanned the tranny several times without any code.

masciv:
Won't be surprised if you engine/transmission mounts are bad. Greatest torque is on the low gears. So bad mounts could mimic a transmission jerk. Check if you're having misfires too. That gear ratio requires good engine performance.

It's not the mount, all mounts are fine.
When the car has been driven for sometime and the engine has warmed up, the selection becomes smooth.

But when the car has been parked for sometime and it's cold, when you drive it, the engine revs high and then a sudden jerk/bang when changing to the 2nd gear. But if you don't rev too high, the jerk is minimal.

Then when slowing down, you will feel a downward jerk, like going from gear 2 to gear 1.

Saw a comment online talking about clutch not releasing properly, don't know how true that is.

Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

AutoConsult:
Internal issues.

The transmission is wearing out gradually. He can drive it like that for another one year, and it can as well get worse very very fast.

Bottom line, he must start saving up to get a new transmission in the near future. No amount of oil change will fix it.

I initially thought that if i change the filter on the tranny, it could salvage the situation.

Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

raphroye:
House please I need help o. I did a oil change in my 2009 Honda Accord 4 cylinder on the 20th July last month... Yesterday afternoon I started my car, and I wanted to pick up something from the trunk and I noticed small white smoke coming out of my exhaust, but it wasn't obvious... I touched my exhaust pipe it was black. This morning when I checked the oil, it has was very low... Please how can I fix this issue 🙏

Hello everyone, is it a known issue for the 03 to 012 accord to short oil?
I bought complete engine in March this year, now the engine is shorting oil and smoking lightly.
What's the best oil to use in servicing the accord?

fineboynl:
the ball joint rod is turning inside the ball joint not from the body. I have never seen such kind of thing before.

Tomorrow I will be removing it. It's the reason the car make clunky noise from the tire when it enters gallop.

Follow through on the advise from Jceesquare or better still, buy a new ball joint.
But this issue you are experiencing is usually with the upper arm ball joint.
Is yours happening on the lower arm?

jceesquare:
I understand what you're saying.
Add clamping force behind the ball joint then tighten it well. It will make the stud not turn while torquing the nut.

Exactly 💯

Chae:
Comrade I'm planning to get honda evil spirit for uber hustle, what r d do and don't of d car? Is it rugged for d hustle?

For me, not a good idea. I will recommend the Honda Civic for this.

Starboytwo:
Good morning guys.

From inception, my fuel Guage don't work until I have a half tank or I buy fuel of about 30k the it will work, then go down again.

I use like that, but I'm not comfortable driving without knowing what level of fuel I got.

Then my EOD 2004 stopped on the road and Meka said change fuel pump.

Now my question. I've asked and they said 25k for the total package. Will the fuel Guage work if I change the whole set up.??

Mind you, another rewire told me it could be the wiring... I don't want to spend 25k this morning and fuel Guage not reading ooo.

Will it work perfect rly if I change the whole set up, or change only fuel pump and manage my thing like that.

I will suggest you change the complete fuel pump with the gauge. Better still, go to ladipo or Oyingbo, let them fix the complete fuel pump and observe the gauge if it works. If it doesn't work, then u can decide either to buy or not. Last I checked, complete fuel pump is around 40k with the gauge.

fineboynl:
before seeing you post. It turns out the driver site tyre has cut threads. and the tyre lost shap. We change the tyre and the wheel hub which was affected. The vibration reduced and it now only happens at first acceleration but once the car take off it stops. I also noticed some shake at hard braking.

Awesome improvement.
For the vibration at first acceleration, you need to check the thyroid for clearance.
Also, for the vibration at hard braking, check the brake disc.

Another trick, let your mech sandpaper the brake disc surface and the surface where u have the studs.

Try this and let's know if it resolves the issue.

fineboynl:
My car vibrate when accelerating. It use to be very lite during on lower gear. But I think it's now more prominent. It's just drive rough when that vibration.

Could this be shaft?

Although still managing it like this. Will this cause the leg to pull if I continue managing it like this?

Check your shaft cup, the grease may have been washed out by the flood.

Also check your bushings and other parts not tight or slightly loose.

Your breakdisk can also cause the vibration.

Check all of these, am sure on of them will be the culprit.

Wilstar:
Good day everyone. Please I’m in need of a competent Honda technician in Abuja. My car needs attention I have run a check on it. And the result below. Anyone who knows a good and tested professional mechanic in abuja please recommend. My location is Abuja. Thank you

Check the FOLLOWED TOPIC: CAR TALK: Maintenance tips for honda Cars. Drop the issue there, am sure someone will be able to help you.

Atolani11:
P0325 is the knock sensor...changed that already.
P2646 is the ivtec sensor at the back... it was cleaned, but it didn't respond, so the jerk still continues at 80km/hr.
The rewire said we have to order it from Lagos.
Still trying to verify the cost.

The whole stress is distressing already 😫

The sensor is around 10k, if am not mistaken

Atolani11:
I have diagnosed the car.
It shows P2646 and P0325 codes

It's the sensor I think atolani mentioned before where he pointed the arrow. You can check the code on YouTube and watch videos on it. You can clean the sensor first and if it doesn't work, you can replace it.

jceesquare:
Post the exact code you got for the O2 sensor. Meanwhile, how did you test the sensors with the multimeter to confirm they're fine?
For the fan, your technician is right. You need to sort out the coolant temperature sensor to revert back to factory set-up.

Thanks for the quick response.
I didn't save the error codes. Howeve, I'll scan again by weekend and share the codes here.
I tested the O2 sensors by reading the continuity using the multimeter. I inserted the probes (Black and Red) into the socket with same wire color. (Black and Black or White and White) and it made the sound indicating that it's working. Not sure I remember the voltage generated.

My radiator doesn't have the sensor, however, I see it has the permanent plastic inserted into the sensor hole.
Is there a way I can get the sensor and Insert it back Into the hole? Is there a particular sensor for it or how do I identify it?

Kindly assist.

Good evening everyone, I scanned my 2007 accord 4 plugs and it gave 3 codes which relates to the o2 sensors (both of them) and the sensor beneath the radiator. My radiator fan is on direct and I don't like it.
However, I was told I need to fix the sensor beneath the radiator before they can connect it to function intermittently. Is this true?

Also, I tested the o2 sensor with a multi meter and they both read correctly which means the sensors are working fine. I noticed the cat has been removed and replaced with a pipe. This prob made the engine very cool and quiet.
Could the cat not being there cause the car to show the o2 sensors as bad?

Atolani11:
Yes i know the map sensor.
One stupid mechanic got it broken when he wanted to remove it.
He went to get other sensors there but he said they are all not working as effective as the one there, so he returned the previous one there.

Please will scanning the car bring up the particular sensor that's at fault?

Yes it will give you a code that indicate its the MAP sensor if that's the issue.

Atolani11:
Good day everyone.
I am currently having a problem with honda accord 2004 v4 engine that I just bought as Naija used.

The car jerks violently when i accelerate and it reaches around 60 to 70km/hr

I have serviced the nozzle, injector
, changed fuel pump, serviced the Map sensor..still no solution.
Infact, once i reach speeds btw 60 to 70km/hr..it jerks violently that i have to take my leg off acceleration. Once i don't drive above that speed, it runs fine.

I don't know what else to do.
My mechanic said he has ran out of ideas.
Infact when i read online that the Map sensor can cause it....my mechanic when to test different map sensors, he said they map sensor in the car works better than all the ones they tested from the seller.

Another point is that the Rev is fine on idle..it can rev very above 5000rev.

I don't know what other sensor to check

This happened to me few weeks ago. I scanned and it showed the MAP sensor. However, the sensor is good but the socket didn't go in properly. I had to change the socket and that was it. Hope your mech knows the difference between the MAP and MAF sensor.

Zidac:
My Honda Accord Exl 09 drags when accelerating. It takes like 60 seconds or more before hitting a considerable speed. What could be the cause?

The two front legs wobbles also before catching a top speed.

Your fuel pump can also be the issue.
Best advice - Scan the vehicle for possible error codes.

Zidac:
My Honda Accord Exl 09 drags when accelerating. It takes like 60 seconds or more before hitting a considerable speed. What could be the cause?

The two front legs wobbles also before catching a top speed.

Check your MAP sensor. It's a small sensor somewhere around the manifold and ejector mouth.

raphroye:
Good day house, my 2009 Honda Accord has a very high RPM, it's as high as 1500 immediately I start the car... It also increases the moment I turn on the AC. I took the car to my mechanic, he said there's nothing he can do that I should keep using it like than

Check the throttle body (ejector mouth?
If it's dirty, clean it.
In my 2007 accord, there a relay behind the glove box controlling the acceleration.