₦airaland Forum

Everythig is working perfectly fine
Come with your mechanic and scanner for inspection
Location is Egbeda lagos.
Contact me on whatsapp: 08187897624

Pictures ate not uploading, it's showing me error.

If interested, please call or chat me up on whatsapp.

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I have the 2007 Honda Accord with everything working perfectly. Leather seat, open roof, 4plugs, 4 solid commercial tyres, etc.

Come with your mechanic and scanner for inspection.

Location is Egbeda Lagos

Babawee:
Dear House,

What should i look out for, i have accord 04-07 in mind to purchase.

anyone who have a good recommendation in lagos or sango otta, naija use with reasonable price.

Hello House, I have my 2007 accord for sale. Leather seat, 4 plugs, open roof, etc. Come with your mechanicfor inspection. LocationisEgbedalagos

Donald3d:
1. Go for 06/07
2. Scan the car
3. Take it for a test drive
4. Scan it again after the test drive (Because some fault codes don't show up , until you drive it for some distance )
5. Check the suspension components especially the ball joint
6. Make sure the Oxygen sensor doesn't give a fault code, the Tokunbo upstream sensor(The short one) is very scarce , except you want to import the OEM which costs between 250-400k
7. Check for the catalytic converter, if it isn't there and you like the car, use it to beat the price down.
8. Buy the 4 cylinder engine
9. I don't know your preference , but the leather seat is a more comfortable ride. I think only the EX trim for 4 cylinder comes with leather seat/

Theres a little clearance somewhere.
Let your mechanic jack up the front tyres and shake them gently, any possibleclearance will be visible.

For me, I think its most likely the Thyroid.

flootintin:
Little help here

I noticed vibrations in my accord 2009 when accelerating between 40kmh - 60kmh. Especially when shifting from 2 to 3 then it stops.

Transmission fluid is clean, no hard shifts.

Cutezt:
My location is Ajah, Lagos. The socket should be working fine, cos when I turned on the car and removed the socket, the sound changed and the car went off, signaling it still works.

There's a difference between the MAF and the MAP sensor.
The MAP sensor is on the ejector mouth (Throttle body)

Just to add, did you work on the engine, was the timing set properly?
All of these can cause this issue.

However, the rockerarm is still showing as a current error code which is the raising sensor.

Cutezt:
Yeah, that has been changed, yet problem persists, about battery removal, I even recently gave my neighbor my battery when his went flat, so if that was the solution, it would have stopped by the time the battery was brought back. Thanks sir.

Where is your location?
I know the map sensor also causes this issue too. check the socket of the map sensor to be sure its fixed properly.

Cutezt:
The raising sensor I'm guessing is the same as the VTC solenoid. I have gone as far as changing it, problem persisted, my former mechanic removed that of another accord there and tested it on mine, same problem, so the VTC solenoid is not the problem, the MAP sensor too works fine when I tested it. I shared a screenshot of the codes I got from an obd 2 scanner above, but I'm hoping to go for a comprehensive scan soon.

The raising sensor is right behind the engine bay, I just goggled it now...it wont make your car rev high.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeeVVewDxDw

You can also remove the battery terminal for like 5mins and reconnect and check again.

Cutezt:
Good day house, please i don't know exactly what is wrong with my car, Honda accord, the car just won't go past 3k rpm, we've changed the VTC solenoid, we've tested the VVT solenoid too, and it moves fine, we changed the Oil pump, we've done everything, yet that rocker arm stuck code is still on, and the car still won't go past 3k rpm, once it reaches there, it jerks very hard, gear selects fine, car moves fine, but doesn't go past that 3k rpm.

I'm tired, any one can recommend a very qualified mechanic/workshop in Lagos who can sort this out?

Thank you.

check and clean the MAP sensor around the throttle body.
Remove the battery terminal for 5mins and reinsert then try again if it gets better.

Another cause of the issue can be a faulty throttle body or raising sensor.
The raising sensor is behind the engine, on the left side.

You can also scan and share the codes here.

Grupo:
My car, a 2007 Toyota corolla had this same issue, exactly as you described it last week.

Scan also showed the throttle position sensor was the issue.

I cleaned the throttle body with carburetor cleaner and changed the four plugs. And issue was fixed. And it has not repeated till now.

Thanks for the heads up bro.
Apparently, the camshaft position sensor's socket was unplugged by God knows who.
Throttle sensor was changed also and so far, the car hasn't done that...hopefully it wont.

Damlesky:
It sounds like trying to stop something rolling with a metal, like trying to stop the blades of a fan with a stick. Ka ka ka ká ka ká till the car stops.

Location is Lagos

Ah, that's weird o.
Ogas in the house, kindly assist here ooo

Damlesky:
Good day everyone... My mechanic told me a month ago that my shocks are leaking and I also need to change my shafts completely, since I know next to nothing about cars (new car owner), I gave him the go ahead and he changed both.
The problem is ever since he did the repair, I've been hearing this crackling sound coming from the front wheel everytime I apply brake. The embarrassing sound is loud enough that people will often look at my car everytime I step on the brakes.
I've taken the car back to the mechanic up to 7 times with no solution to the problem, he's changed the calipers, hob, brake disc etc all to no avail and I'm fed up.
What could be the problem and can you please refer me to a competent mechanic?
Car is Honda Accord DC.

Would have been better if you can describe the sound it makes but unfortunately not.
Where's your location?

Abbeyismo:
Brainbox (ECU)
If no wiring has been tamper with before the issue start.
Get a good technician to check all the fuses one after the other if nothing is wrong get another ecu and test.

Thank you bro.

mayor2013:
Get a professional not a quack

That's why I am here to get the professional help, no one is a quack.

2cribz:
And u said its your bro car. Alaye stop telling lies,na scrap u dey drive.na yur carton which dirty bro be that. Idiot

You be fool...

Hello Gurus in the house, please I need your help with my brothers 2011 Lexus ES350
Vehicle looses power while in motion.
Car has been scanned and it showed an error relating to the throttle pedal.
Throttle pedal was changed, yet issue persists.

Issue:
Vehicle looses power while in motion but engine is still running, just doesn't rev.
Sometimes when you want to overtake, pedal doesn't respond to acceleration.
While in motion, even when the gear is pushed to neutral, pressing the throttle, car doesn't rev then suddenly, it picks again

Things Done:
Fuel pump and filter checked and changed
Throttle pedal changed
Throttle body (Ejector mouth) changed
Plugs and nozzles checked, all fine.

What the possible cause of the issue?

Hello Gurus in the house, please I need your help with my brothers 2011 Lexus ES350
Vehicle looses power while in motion.
Car has been scanned and it showed an error relating to the throttle pedal.
Throttle pedal was changed, yet issue persists.

Issue:
Vehicle looses power while in motion but engine is still running, just doesn't rev.
Sometimes when you want to overtake, pedal doesn't respond to acceleration.
While in motion, even when the gear is pushed to neutral, pressing the throttle, car doesn't rev then suddenly, it picks again

Things Done:
Fuel pump and filter checked and changed
Throttle pedal changed
Throttle body (Ejector mouth) changed
Plugs and nozzles checked, all fine.

What the possible cause of the issue?

Hello Gurus in the house, please I need your help with my brothers 2011 Lexus ES350
Vehicle looses power while in motion.
Car has been scanned and it showed an error relating to the throttle pedal.
Throttle pedal was changed, yet issue persists.

Issue:
Vehicle looses power while in motion but engine is still running, just doesn't rev.
Sometimes when you want to overtake, pedal doesn't respond to acceleration.
While in motion, even when the gear is pushed to neutral, pressing the throttle, car doesn't rev then suddenly, it picks again

Things Done:
Fuel pump and filter checked and changed
Throttle pedal changed
Throttle body (Ejector mouth) changed
Plugs and nozzles checked, all fine.

What the possible cause of the issue?

Conner44:
Forget about the sensor or wiring, just answer me this . . .

is a functioning thermostat present in the engine at this moment?

Nope

Conner44:
I drive a 2005 Honda Accord.

It's mpg from the factory is 9L per KM

Today I am getting 11L per KL due to the age of the engine in question

You yourself say you're using more L per KM and I see you also have a check engine light on for your radiator thermostat


Oga, why not fix your radiator thermostat and get an additional 2 - 3 mpg on your vehicle? I mean, the solution to your problem is staring at you in the face at this point

The radiator was changed by the previous owner and it didn't come with the sensor.
I got the sensor at Oyingbo but didn't work and since then, I just haven't had the time for it.
Person no dey repair motor finish.

If really this is the cause, then I don't mind buying another sensor again and get a good rewire for the connection.

Anticannibal:
Electric fuel pump ?
Please can you explain how this’s

It means you should check your fuel pump and the filter.

Anticannibal:
The RPM is not close to zero it’s on 1.
And the engine is running smoothly no vibration or misfire

This can be a wiring issue.
Try scanning the car first and share the codes here.
Scan the transmission also.

Anticannibal:
The engine goes back off immediately I engage gear in reverse or drive

Is the RPM too low?
When on idle, is the RPM close to zero?
When on idle, is the engine running smoothly without any misfire or is engine vibrating/shaking?

Hello gurus in the house,
Please I need you input and explanation. (2007 Honda Accord 4 plugs)

Looking at the images attached, does my car consume fuel, because I no even understand the consumption thing and the calculation.
From Egbeda to VI, Monday to Friday (Movement is between 5.30am and 4pm), I buy around 60k + fuel every week for my 2007 Honda Accord 4 plugs (with 4 passengers on both trips and without AC)

This morning just before leaving the house, I reset the TRIP A and TRIB B on the odometer to zero and also the Trip computer in the cars Navigation screen to zero. When I got to VI, the Odometer is showing 24.7 but the Trip computer is showing 40.4km.....why is there disparity in the trip calculator?

Also, is the car consuming fuel?
Please help me understand the TRIP A and B meaning

After scanning the car, the only error code is the radiator thermostat.

Please help.

Hello gurus in the house,
Please I need you input and explanation. (2007 Honda Accord 4 plugs)

Looking at the images attached, does my car consume fuel, because I no even understand the consumption thing and the calculation.
From Egbeda to VI, Monday to Friday (Movement is between 5.30am and 4pm), I buy around 60k + fuel every week for my 2007 Honda Accord 4 plugs (with 4 passengers on both trips and without AC)

This morning just before leaving the house, I reset the TRIP A and TRIB B on the odometer to zero and also the Trip computer in the cars Navigation screen to zero. When I got to VI, the Odometer is showing 24.7 but the Trip computer is showing 40.4km.....why is there disparity in the trip calculator?

Also, is the car consuming fuel?
Please help me understand the TRIP A and B meaning

After scanning the car, the only error code is the radiator thermostat.

Please help.

Hello gurus in the house,
Please I need you input and explanation. (2007 Honda Accord 4 plugs)

Looking at the images attached, does my car consume fuel, because I no even understand the consumption thing and the calculation.
From Egbeda to VI, Monday to Friday (Movement is between 5.30am and 4pm), I buy around 60k + fuel every week for my 2007 Honda Accord 4 plugs (with 4 passengers on both trips and without AC)

This morning just before leaving the house, I reset the TRIP A and TRIB B on the odometer to zero and also the Trip computer in the cars Navigation screen to zero. When I got to VI, the Odometer is showing 24.7 but the Trip computer is showing 40.4km.....why is there disparity in the trip calculator?

Also, is the car consuming fuel?
Please help me understand the TRIP A and B meaning

After scanning the car, the only error code is the radiator thermostat.

Please help.

flex12:
Hello Guys,

Please my Honda Accord EOD 2004 V4 engine was ringed about three months ago, now the smoking have started again and the car shorting oil.

Will you advise me to ring the engine again?

Who has an idea of the amount of a tokunbo engine? I will appreciate if I can get contact of a seller at either ladipo or oyingbo

Thank you.

Engine is around 500k at Oyingbo, not sure about ladipo.

08081115843 - try this guy at Oyingbo, he rings engine and he's good at it.
He did for someone and its been fine since then. He will check and know if the engine will work if ringed.
Ringing shouldn't be up to 150k. However, if you have the cash, I will advise you buy toks once and for all.

If you decide to buy engine, ask for Uche BIG HEAD, he will give you good deal and also buy the old one.
His shop is around the canal side.

Ejike LADIPO - 07033054900
Uche BIG HEAD OYINGBO - 08033655246, 08084445246

Please share the update with us.

Cryomancer:
please can this also be the cause of why my key fob only works when I come close to the driver side door? but refuse to work when I press it from any other location.

I had the above issue for more than a year before my key fob finally stopped working two weeks ago.

There's a possibility that might be the cause.
Try changing the receiver first, it's not so expensive, less than 10k I guess....not sure though.

If you can go to oyingbo, its better. That way, once it's fixed and doesn't work, u don't have to oay

kelvinmnet:
Hello bro, what model and year of Honda is it?
I know Honda has something that communicates with the key. (I HAVE FORGOTTEN THE NAME)

It's in the driver window control panel. Once you take out the panel, ull see the sensor tucked inside the panel from the inside view.

I think it's called DOOR RECEIVER

fineboynl:
I experienced this problem early this year. I woke up in the next day only to discover my honda accord wasn't responding to Fob keyless entry. At first I thought they stole my car battery or the battery was dead. Until I open it with the key and noticed the battery is intact then i start the car. It starts at once but the buttons on the fob not responding.

So I thought maybe the battery on the fob is dead. Just because I used it the previous night. It was what I used to lock the car. So I open the fob and removed the battery then test it with my tongue.

It has some little low charge. Then I put back the battery. The car makes a sound immediately I put back the battery. But when I pressed the buttons it didn't respond. I removed the battery several times but it doesn't that sound again or respond to press.

So I just leave it till I will buy another battery. Yesterday I bought a new battery and When you insert battery it blink red light just once. But the car doesn't respond. I have removed and insert multiple things it doesn't respond.

What could be the problem. I need help

Hello bro, what model and year of Honda is it?
I know Honda has something that communicates with the key. (I HAVE FORGOTTEN THE NAME)

It's in the driver window control panel. Once you take out the panel, ull see the sensor tucked inside the panel from the inside view.

Zico777:
Thanks for your input Boss!
Yes the recommended fluid is
Toyota genuine ATF Type T- IV.
I will tell him to drain out the one there and get the T - IV. It's around 35k.

You welcome sir!

Zico777:
It's actually a 2009 toyota corolla sport.
The mechanic said it's the filter that is blocked with dirt thereby not making the fluid to flow properly.
He has cleaned it with petrol according to him and has also changed the hose.
He promised I won't experience such again.

The mech is supposed to change the filter but since he has thoroughly washed it, well it should be fine.
However, the proper transmission fluid should be used just to avoid stories that touch....that transmission is expensive ooo.

Zico777:
Merry Christmas!
I experienced hose burst.

On a Sunday afternoon while I was driving, I just experienced my car was revving with power in the engine.

Fast forward I discovered transmission fluid has splashed everywhere in the engine bay.

We called a mechanic who got us transmission fluid, it was refilled and we left the place.

In less than 3 weeks same thing happened again.

This time it happened few metres to my estate, I called the mechanic that normally fixes my car he got me another transmission fluid.

Don't forget the 1st I bought was still remaining in the container so he added it to the new one.

Is it ok to do this?

Pls what could be the reason for the hose pipe to keep bursting?
I have experienced it twice?

It depends on the type of car.
For some cars, their transmission may be strong enough to withstand certain conditions, others may pack up or require to drain everything and refill.
However, you need to know the root cause of the issue.
What's causing the hose to burst?