₦airaland Forum

XPaul:
Good morning everyone.

I have an issue with my Honda Accord 2010.

Recently a rewire worked on my AC and even since then my engine shakes aggressively whenever I put on the AC and the car is in traffic. If I am driving, it drives smoothly but once I enter traffic and the AC is on, it shakes very aggressively that I have to put it off. The RPM drops to almost zero

It appears that the AC is drawing too much power from the engine.

Now they are saying I should bring 41k to change the AC panel and the fuse box to rectify the issue.

Please has anyone experienced something similar before and how was it resolved.

Hello, so for me, I think the Ac compressor is too heavy for your engine or the engine is weak and can't carry the AC compressor. However, accords in this year range uses a manual compressor and this is a sign of manual compressor.
So, you may need to check the compressor used and sure it's the one for your car.
I use an 07 accord and whenever I turn on my Ac, you can feel the effect of the compressor on the engine

indexZer0:
what about me bro, do you think i should not be worried cos i got success mail since February.

No, don't be worried.

Bankyt90:
I did my interview and assessment in April I passed. I was told there’s no start date yet too. I applied for TSE azure developer

Akinloye Bankole, you will be called when there is a start date. Don't worry and don't panic.

XPaul:
Catalyst is not intact. I did a cheap catalyst last year and I guess it has gone bad.

Yes, I test the old O2 sensor. The connector was bad.

The error code can also be caused as a result of the catalyst not being Intact. Try fixing the catalyst and clear the error code then try again.

XPaul:
Hello everyone,

My Honda Accord 2010 is showing P0135. I replaced the O2 sensor with a brand new O2 sensor, still the code is still showing and my fuel consumption seems worse than before.

Also my RPM is high.

What can I do?

High RPM can also cause increase in consumption.
Is your Catalyst intact?
Did you test the old o2 sensor with a multimeter?

remi4ever:
Thanks Broski. I just cannot overlook. Some people might be comfortable but my OCD will not let me.

I'm at the mech close to my house
We want to reinspect the trans mount. The AC is even cooler now with the serpentine belt adjuster properly.

Modified...

I had to clean the oil sludge from the bottom trans mount myself and I found out that the bottom mount has cut.. 😂 😂 😂 I guess my problems are gradually coming to an end.

Nice...
Slow and steady...
Na to go open workshop remain ooo with the experience you have gathered with this car.

We go choose date for your freedom ceremony....lolz

remi4ever:
Update

After my stripped tensioner has been fixed. The vibration has reduced greatly. The issue I have now is vibration when reversing and the low rpm when the AC is on.

This is good news! Weldone!
For the vibration when reversing, check the engine mount and the lower mounts beneath the transmission....you never can tell.
So u can let someone engage the gears when the car is idling while you watch the engine as it moves front and back. This will enable you quickly identify the faulty mount.

Regards the rpm, levlave it for now and monitor for a while after u have fixed the mount issue.

The vibration may further reduce once u fix the faulty mount.

remi4ever:
God bless you o, i don Google tire...

In this case, how do I deal with the rpm issue that falls to 500rpm when my car is idle and ac is on?

Since there's no IACV to clean or change.

I think this can be adjusted using an OBD scanner.
Try this and let's know.

I will check mine and share the pix. I think its same thing with yours.

remi4ever:
My AC compressor is factory fitted. Still works fine. I have cleaned the injector mouth as well. No black smoke at all.

Omo na wa ooo
Na only God fit help us here ooo
But if the rpm drops and the car still works fine then ignore it.
Car issues cannot be completely fixed.

remi4ever:
God bless you o, i don Google tire...

In this case, how do I deal with the rpm issue that falls to 500rpm when my car is idle and ac is on?

Since there's no IACV to clean or change.

I may be wrong o but I feel your AC compressor is the issue.
Does your car emit black smoke? You can check the tail pipe.
When I changed my engine at Oyingbo, the mechanic washed the manifold with petrol and also the ejector mouth and this helped. My car runs on a little above 500rpm on idle with ac ON and it functions well.

Dream2:
This oil leak of a thing ehn.
I'm currently battling it on my Honda baby boy the gear oil leaked and the guy told me it's from the "Gear oil cup seal" I can't remember the exact grammar so he bought the seal and fixed it, drove for some days and noticed the leakage again from same place.
I'm just tired and I need that car because it's fuel efficient unlike the highlander that drink fuel like water.
Is it that the oil seal he bought is not good enough or what?

The seal is most likely not good.
Yesterday, I was able to successfully stop the oil leak after buying another shaft and seal. I am still monitoring and praying the leak doesn't reoccur.

234GT:
Good morning car gurus on the house.
I use a 2008 accord 4 cylinder as my daily car.

Last week Wednesday and Thursday, I discovered oil leaks where I parked overnight. I took the car to a ram and we checked under. He said the power steering rack is bad and the leaks came from the driver side rubber boot covering.

He advised that I change the power steering rack. I have bought a tokunbo rack for 55k.

My confusion now is that since last week Friday, the leaking has stopped completely, and the power steering reservoir level has not gone down one bit. The steering system is working perfectly with no noise whatsoever.

I don't feel like changing the rack because of so many things they have to dismantle to remove the bad one. I am always scared of my car being piecesed by mechanics because they tend not to return the components to how they met it.....like one may end up with problem B while trying to fix problem A.

Please advise on what the leak could possibly be, because I have checked the atf and brake oil, they are both at the usual levels. Thank you.

You need to be sure it's the rack that's leaking oo. Currently, am battling with an issue on my 2007 Accord. Sometime ago, I saw oil leak on the floor by the driver side.

I check and saw oil around the tranny and on the beam. Mechanic checked and said steering rack was leaking. We repaired the rack, steering is fine but there is still oil leak. I just tire.

Mech checked again and said there's still oil leak from tranny seal or the tranny cable as the source of the leak could not be ascertained.

Tranny cable seal was checked and it was dry, no leak.
Shaft seal was replaced, there was still oil leak.
Changed shaft seal again with a different mech and trying to assume the first seal wasn't done right, same noni. Tranny is working and selecting fi e, just the oil leak.

Right now, I am just tired and in a fix. The car no just hungry me drive again. The stress too much.

Later dem say I should change the complete shaft that the shaft there is for Civic.

That's the next plan right now. Hoping to do that by this weekend. Called market and they said complete shaft for driver side is 30k.

Please house, what's could be the possible cause of this issue, Abeg ooo

Conner44:
Oga your vibrations can come from either one of the following 4 places in scale of most recurrent

1. Bad engine mounts

2. Bad IACV

3. Bad solenoid that directs vacuum to the associated engine mount that is designed to reduce vibration

4. Bad harmonic balancer timing in your engine sump

Check which it is and fix

Cc kelvinmnet

These point listed are possible causes though...

1. Bad engine mounts
Very possible

2. Bad IACV
The IAC valve should affect the RPM even at idle speed without engaging the transmission. This controls the Idle Air and will be very unstable. Not sure this applies to his situation here.

3. Bad solenoid that directs vacuum to the associated engine mount that is designed to reduce vibration
Not aware where this is located, will look it up.

4. Bad harmonic balancer timing in your engine sump
I know this is popularly called 'WEIGHT'. I knew about this in Camry muscle. If this weight in removed or not properly set, ull hear a loud noise while in motion from the engine. Am not sure all cars have this weight in them.
Any heads up on this?

remi4ever:
How can you tell? I'll look it up, but I want a firsthand experience.

I use a 2007 Accord (DC) and I have same issue. My friend uses same car and has same issue.
Once the ac is ON, you'll feel the vibration and heaviness of the vehicle.

I asked a couple of AC technicians at ladipo and other places, they explained that the manual compressor is the cause.
Manual compressors gets very cold immediately you turn them ON but the automatic compressor takes time to build up till it becomes very cold

My previous car, Camry muscle had an automatic compressor. I didn't feel the vibration but the ac takes time to get cold but once cold....its very cold.

remi4ever:
Without AC on reverse the vibration is minimal. I recently changed the top transmission mount. I have been meaning to check the lower mounts too.

Thanks for your response.

Then your AC compressor may be the culprit, its probably a manual compressor.
I am able to analyze this because I use a 2007 accord and same thing happens.

remi4ever:
Hey everyone, my car's RPM stays constant when the AC is on or off while it's in drive, and it vibrates even more when it's in reverse. This decrease in RPM when the AC is on leads to vibrations, despite no check engine light being on. I've already had the throttle body serviced, and all my engine mounts are fine. It's a Honda Accord 2009 with a 2.0L engine.

Hello, you may need to check you engine mounts again since it only vibrates on Reverse especially the small mounts beneath the gear.
Also, your AC compressor may be a manual compressor which may cause your car to vibrate when turned ON.

Turn off your AC and check again...engage the reverse and drive gear and check if it still vibrates.

Piyke:
The replacement part. I should note at this point that this model features an external filter. So,no need to bring down the transmission pan.

Old post though but where can I get this filter?
Most mechanics always say the filter is inside the transmission.

Hello Guru's in the house.
Please I need your help on my 07 Accord.
My DRL light (American Spec light as we popularly call it) is not working.
The fuse is ok and the bulbs are working fine.
I scanned and got the error code B1079 but haven't been able to trace it.

Anyone with idea on how to get this fixed?

Hello Guru's in the house.
Please I need your help on my 07 Accord.
My DRL light (American Spec light as we popularly call it) is not working.
The fuse is ok and the bulbs are working fine.
I scanned and got the error code B1079 but haven't been able to trace it.

Anyone with idea on how to get this fixed?

lawmanlala:
Hello house, I realised Mt 07 accord had thermostat removed by former naija user.i got a new thermostat to install, but mechanic kicked against, saying it will cause overheating n whole lot of problem.i really want to install it as I don't like always-on fan working. My car doesn't have ac working for now. Please what's your opinion? Mileage is 148k

Installing a Thermostat wont cause over heating.
I use the same 07 Accord and I can tell you confidently that it wont cause any issue as long as the Thermostat is good.
Check your radiator to know if it has the sensor at the lower part as I heard it's required for the fan to fulfill *YOUR* purpose.

oh since its a v6, it wont happen. I have noticed that only on 4 plugs.

fineboynl:
no it's not. My accord doesn't do that. Although it's v6.

Hey bro, I would like to ask as am not sure this is a general behavior of the accord.

When you turn ON your AC when your engine is idling, does it have an obvious effect on the engine?

When in motion and the AC is turned ON, does it have an effect on the movement of the car, like requiring more power to move the car?

I have seen this in a couple of Honda Accord series and want to know if its a general behavior.

ifedo:
I bought my Honda Accord 2007 (DC) and I have been using for over 3 years. The AC has been superb and suddenly the cooling started reducing. I thought it was gas…fast forward, i took it to an AC tech who successfully damaged the whole compressor and said I will have to buy a new one. I couldn’t argue because I’ve used the current one for over 3 years. My discovery is that they are all inflating the price of compressor. Does anyone have a trusted AC technician in Abuja? Please help!!! Heat too much o

Also, where can one buy the Transmission filter for the 2003 - 2007 accord.
See image below of the filter and the part no.

This filter is located externally on the gearbox.
See this youtube video link for better understanding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZAmcEf9LrY&t=457s

kelvinmnet:
Hello Guru's in the house, good morning to you all.

I noticed my 2007 accord has this obvious jerk when shifting from gear 1 to gear 2. The RPM revs high then gbam, the sudden shift to gear 2.

Other gears engage smoothly.

Once this happens the first time, it doesn't happen again until the engine is turned off and allowed to cool down.

My friend who drives same car has similar issue.

What could be the problem?

Check the fan and ensure its working especially when the AC is turned ON.
Also, change your radiator to double cell and then observe again.
If you are not able to change the radiator now due to financial constraints, then go to the car wash and let them use their pressure hose to wash the radiator.
It can probably be clogged with dirts.

temi4fash:
Good afternoon

Please I just changed my Engine and the car has been working very well.

I got into traffic and 30 mins into the traffic, it was a day when the sun was so Hot, and I was on AC prior to entering the traffic.

I noticed my car started showing high temperature and I put of the AC and I didn't have no issues. I have always used the car with the AC since I changed the Engine and never had any issues although I have never encountered that kind of traffic before.

Talked to my mechanic said I should change the radiator to a double cell.

What could be wrong and the permanent solution?

I had same issue with my last engine too that one once I enter traffic for 10 mins or more the temperature rises very high.

Please help me

Hello Guru's in the house, good morning to you all.
I noticed my 2007 accord has this obvious jerk when shifting from gear 1 to gear 2. The RPM revs high then gbam, the sudden shift to gear 2.
Other gears engage smoothly.
Once this happens the first time, it doesn't happen again until the engine is turned off and allowed to cool down.
My friend who drives same car has similar issue.
What could be the problem?

How much do you charge to reprint the custom papers?

I am around, it depends on your location.

inyangd4:
The two lights are for the same problem. I had same on my mazda 3. I scanned and got faulty ABS sensor. I ordered for the sensor, changed it ( by myself)but error remains I troubleshot further and discovered the ABS wire was broken at the connector. I got that fixed and both light disappeared. I eventually didn't use the sensor I ordered

I would have helped you to fix yours if you were around.

It pointed me to the front right wheel speed sensor and I replaced it. I could not find the complete length so I bought the cut and join, still same.
How does one even test a speed sensor without connection to the car?

ZIMDRILL:
when you scanned it, scan pin point which sensor among the four wheels ? becoz if the scan pin pointed the right wheel

then its easy trace the all wires to that wheel

Where is your location?

inyangd4:
The two lights are for the same problem. I had same on my mazda 3. I scanned and got faulty ABS sensor. I ordered for the sensor, changed it ( by myself)but error remains I troubleshot further and discovered the ABS wire was broken at the connector. I got that fixed and both light disappeared. I eventually didn't use the sensor I ordered

I would have helped you to fix yours if you were around.

I have changed the faulty one after scanning, yet the lights wont go off.

fineboynl:
change your abs sensors

Hello Guru's in the House,

I noticed that my 2004 Mazda6 v6 has a couple of lights ALWAYS ON on the dash.
The ABS, Stability control and the TCS OFF lights are always ON.

So far, these lights have no negative impact on the performance of the car, I just hate to see them ON.
I have scanned the car several times but it doesn't bring any error code related to these indicators.

I have seen this lights ON on other cars too.
My friends Lexus ES350 2011, after clearing the code, it doesn't come up anytime the wife drives the car being a gentle driver but anytime he drives, the light comes ON.

Anyone with idea on how to get rid of these lights, I would greatly appreciate.
See the image for the indicators.

point 1 may be caused by a bad fuse. check the fuse box to identify the fuse responsible for the fuel cap indication.
point 2 may be caused by a couple of factors like weak fuel pump having low pressure or dirty fuel pump filter, low idle, etc.

You can scan the vehicle for possible error codes so you don't spend unnecessarily.

inyangd4:
Pls I need your input concerning my car.

1) My fuel cap light doesn't turn ON even when the fuel cap is removed.

2) when driving with the AC ON, after like 30mins, they car won't accelerate even when the gas pedal is pressed down completely. But with AC OFF, the car flies!
(FYI, it's a tork engine; 2012 mazda 3)