₦airaland Forum

Am in Abia state. Perhaps through my email Kingsleyobinna26@yahoo.com
or via 07015387845

@Sidajili
Here's the heli and the old Tx,still awaiting your Dsm Tx/Rx.
Pls make things happen.

Here's the gearing section. It lies below the main shaft and motor.
The potruded object on the left gear is a one waybearing i built. It permits the rotor to spin freely when spining in the wrong direction. This makes autorotation possible. Although this is impossible with my fixed pitch design. The primary reason why i decided to build this part was because,it saves my gear when i close the throttle stick too quickly. I was aware of the burning fact that if i don't use this autorotation wheel,my motor would serve as a brake when i close the gas.

Oops. Here's the heli withs its old Tx.Humbly ,but sadly waiting for Sidajili's Dsm Tx/Rx to arrive....

For those who might want to build a custom built swashplate. Note the three ball bearings in contact with the groove on the white plastic. It is there to serve as the bearing. Don't let there contact press too hard and create an unreasonable friction. Neither should you let them press too feebly against the grooves: they'll simply fall off..
That's just the best i can come up with for now,and without a CNC ....

When building this kind of project never overlook the tendency of injuries. They often occur.........

10/09/2013
MODIFICATION UPDATES.

Finally,work is now complet on the heli.
Some few weeks ago,the heli was taken to pieces. This was based on Sidajili's advice. All parts containing aluminium was changed and replaced with Styrofoam and fiberglass,where necessary.
Although this wasn't easy,but it had to be done.
Below is a pix of her,without her main blades and flybar paddles

@ Sidajili

Tanks for your tips about using fiberglass and avoiding metals. I was later to learn that even aluminium was more heavier than fiberglass.
Based on your suggestions. I did a complete strip down of the heli. Then i replaced all the parts with fiberglass and Styrofoam..
. After the mod. i noticed an eighty grams reduction in weight.
Here's the new look.....

I am confident enough to believe this tail rotor would be strong enough to produce the force required to counter the torque,and as well have more headroom for steering (yaw). .
This tail rotor assembly is so strong that it can lift up the whole assembly,if left unclamped. This is illustrated in the picture below. Notice the rotor arcing,making an angle to the horizontal plane,even when clamped....

The tail rotor...



The tail rotor consists of two props,rotating in opposite directions,powered by two powerful micro motors.
Below is a pix before i spun it up.....
Note: it is clamped and is disconnected from the helicopter.

This circuit will also be waved aside,as soon as Sidajili sends me the ESC he promised. Because there wont be any use for them. They've served there purpose. But they did prove to be working well and could stand more abuse.
The pix belo was a test run i did with the circuit,powering the tail rotor. It performed well,without much signs of localized heating

Below is the Pwm amplifier circuit i built. It amplifies the little pwm signal from the Rx. So it can drive the motor without burning out.
Notice the two mosfets. The lower mosfet mounted on a heatsink drives the main motor. While the mosfet without heatsink drives the tail rotor motor. This is so,as it has nothing to worry about,in terms of current.

But am also looking forward to replace it with a lipolymer. As soon as Sidajili sends me his lipolymer as promised.

Also.... A li-ion battery i got from a Dell laptop. I seriesed and parallel 4 out of the 6 pieces it had,to get this.......

Here's is the Receiver(Rx)

Preboy: would u give the the transmitter as u won't be needing it anymore

Yea

So...[b][/b][url][/url][img][/img]

K.

Here is my 2.4ghz transmitter. The only modification made,was changing the packaging,and replacing the joystich with a playstation controller joystick. This was done so that each joystick could control both x and y axis.
I will soon be dropping this transmitter,as soon as Sidajili's Full range DSM 2.4GHZ Tx/RX arives.

Preboy: now I'm dead confused, how long did it take you to assemble all that.

Three months and some few weeks.

Below,are the two reduction plastic gear i used. They were gotten from a big toy car truck....

Here's the one way bearing,being inserted into the rotor shaft......

.

Here's the flybar,comfortably sitting on the rotor head,connected to the swashplate.

Some assembly pix....

Here is the flybar,being assembled into the rotor head.

Posting some pictures of the flybar fabrication.....
They are fabricated from thin aluminium sheets. Balanced and leveled as possible...

Below is a picture of my rotorhead,during a spin up test,to test how friction free the swashplate is....

You can figure out how to connect you linkages to the rotor blades. It all depends on your setup. Mind you. You can build your swashplate however you want to. But be certain it does what it should do as a swashplate. Most of all,ensure that all joints and linkages are friction-free to the minimal. I don't have to emphasize the kind of power,a little friction can steal from you. Just like it did,in the picture below,when i was forced to dismantle my rotor head,and inspect the reduction in Rpm.

Sidajili: gentlemen,

keep up the good work. I am following this thread with interest. will chip in where necessary.

@ Sidajili
Tanx alot...... U na Baba naa.

@Preboy
still on the swashplate explaination.

After assembly,you should have something like the picture below......

Before assembly,you should have something like in the picture below....

You are wondering where those 3 ball bearings were going to sit, righ?
They are going to sit on the face of those three 'L' shaped metal. Like in the picture below......