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Preventive measures for currants in the spring Care for this plant should be started in early spring, by processing the shrubs, which is a guarantee of a timely and rich harvest of berries. After all, experienced summer residents know that after winter, many pests begin to show themselves and, as the temperature rises, they begin to feast on currants.

To prevent this, care should be taken to protect currant bushes from pests and diseases. Moreover, this should be done as early as possible after the snow melts, but not later than the buds begin to swell.

Everyone understands that by avoiding at an early stage of the development of the disease, he relieves himself of the problems associated with its treatment. Therefore, if a plant is properly cared for, it will become more resistant to many diseases.

If you want your currant bush to suffer less from such misfortunes, then you should, without delay, start caring for it.

Already in the first weeks of spring, when the currants have not yet come out of dormancy, they carry out sanitary pruning. Sick, dry and damaged branches are subject to removal. They must be cut very carefully so that no hemp remains, since through them the disease can spread to the entire plant.
The branches of the currant bush should be located above the ground, and for this you need special supports. They will help you keep the branches intact, because when the berries begin to ripen, the load on them will increase significantly. It should be remembered that if the branch is damaged, there will be an additional opportunity for infection to enter the plant.
In the process of caring for currants, it is imperative to remove the surface of the earth in the root zone. The rubbish that you collect in this place is subject to incineration. For the most part, it is here that favorable conditions for the development of pathogenic bacteria and pests arise.
After waiting for the snow to melt, you can begin to loosen the near-trunk circles. As a result of this operation, air access to the compacted soil will improve.
When the plants enter the growing season, fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers is carried out, which will accelerate the formation of new ovaries.
Also, for preventive purposes, it makes sense to choose suitable varieties for planting currants in the fall, which are distinguished by the maximum resistance to diseases and pests.
There are situations when even the most careful care does not allow protecting currant bushes from pests and diseases. Therefore, the summer resident will not hurt to get acquainted with the problems that can damage this garden culture.

Moreover, it is important not only to know about the characteristics of pests, but also to have an idea of ​​how to deal with them.

How to deal with diseases and pests of currants and how to carry out prevention:

The most common pests
Each summer cottage is inhabited by many insects that like tender and fragrant buds, as well as currant leaves and berries. Among them, a group of pests can be distinguished that most often infect this plant.

Description of the most common currant pests Kidney mite and kidney moth. As the name suggests, they are very fond of plant buds.
Gall and shoot aphids, spider mites. These pests really like currant leaves.
Currant goldfish and scale insect. These insects cause great damage to young shoots.
Gooseberry fire and sawer. These pests gladly eat berries that have not reached the stage of maturity.
To cope with these enemies, summer residents can use, along with folk remedies, chemicals created in collaboration with scientists. It is very important to know how to use them correctly.

Pest control methods
Features of spring processing of currants from pests Kidney mite. It is from this pest that black currants often suffer. Once on the bush, it penetrates the buds, so they become unusually large, which makes them easy to distinguish from healthy neighbors. For the summer resident, the primary goal is to prevent the opening of such kidneys.

Description of signs of damage to currants by a kidney mite:

Otherwise, mites will appear from them, which will begin to harm the rest of the currant bush. This can be avoided only if, already in the first weeks of spring, you begin to take measures to combat them. Mechanical removal of shoots containing diseased buds is considered the most effective.

Further, they are subject to incineration. If there are many branches on the bush, then the summer resident is not always able to determine all the affected areas. Therefore, you should not limit yourself to cutting.

It is possible to increase the effectiveness of the fight against this pest by spraying the currants with a 1 percent solution of colloidal sulfur or 0.2 percent solution of malofos. Bordeaux liquid and other special preparations also show good results.

When spraying currants, you need to keep in mind that the drug works best at an ambient temperature of at least 20 degrees Celsius.

If the weather is colder on the day for which you have planned spraying, then after treatment the plant must be covered with plastic wrap. To consolidate the result, after 10 days, the bush must be sprayed again.

Currant aphid. You can detect the presence of this pest on the currant bush by the twisted and wrinkled ends of the branches. If you look at the back side, you can find a large number of small green bugs.

An effective means of combating aphid eggs is to treat the bushes even before the buds swell with a 3% nitrafen solution.

Spider mite. The harm from this insect to the currant bush is large-scale damage to the leaves, which negatively affects the vegetation of the plant. Already in early May, spots of a whitish or reddish-brown hue can be seen on the leaves.

Looking at the underside, you can find the tick itself. An effective method of dealing with this pest is to collect damaged leaves and burn them. It is also useful to combine it with spraying with a 50% solution of karbofos.

Differences in spring and autumn planting of red currants:

Blackcurrant Sawer and Willow Scale
The blackcurrant pest, the blackcurrant sawyer and methods of dealing with it The sawyer needs to be given special attention, since it is not always possible to identify it in time due to its hidden form of habitat. It is possible to understand that the currants are affected by this pest after the appearance of sawfly larvae, which grow inside the ovaries and berries.

This usually happens the moment they leave their hideout. A logical consequence of this is the fall of the berries, as a result of the sawfly pupae fall into the soil, where they remain for the winter.

To avoid next year the defeat of the currant by this pest, it is necessary to dig up the trunk circles in the fall or early spring. In addition, spraying with a 0.2% chlorophos solution is beneficial.

Willow shield. This insect uses branches for laying red-purple eggs, which are masked by the shields of the dead individuals. Already during the flowering of currants, larvae hatch from the eggs.

As they grow, a scutellum forms, over time they harm the plant, using the juice of young shoots as food. This makes the currant bushes weaker, which in some cases can result in their complete withering away.

You can protect the currants from damage by larvae by spraying them with a 3% solution of nitrafen paste before budding. An effective measure is brushing the eggs off the branches. In cases where too many pests are found on a branch, it makes sense to cut it and burn it.

Currant goldfish. The appearance of this pest leads to the drying of the shoot starting from the top. This is due to the fact that beetle larvae choose it as a wintering place. Therefore, it is very important to prune branches where there are beetles in early spring.

Otherwise, the larvae will eat their core, eventually go down, and then the shoot will die. It should be borne in mind that young shoots are of the greatest interest for the pest. Therefore, it is necessary to take measures to combat it as early as possible, since the future of the entire bush depends on it.

Disease control methods
Description of currant diseases and methods of treatment Like any plant grown in the country, currants need protection from various pests and diseases. Therefore, if you do not want to be left without a crop, you need to start processing currant bushes in early spring.

You should be aware that various diseases and insects can affect this plant, and in each case, the measures to combat them will be different. Therefore, in order for the measures taken to bring the desired effect, it is necessary not only to find out from whom the threat to the currants may come, but also how to avoid their appearance.

Diseases caused by the activity of a certain fungus or virus can also harm currant bushes. In most cases, currant bushes suffer from the following diseases:

powdery mildew;
anthracnose.

Powdery mildew
Recently, summer residents have found signs of this disease on many fruit trees and shrubs. Her treatment must be timely, otherwise you can say goodbye to the plant.

To protect the currant bush from powdery mildew, it is necessary to spray it with a nitrafen solution in the first weeks of spring. When the plant fades and the berries begin to ripen, it is treated with a 20% solution of benlate or caratan.

If the extent of damage to the bush is very large, then re-treatment may be required 7 days after the first spraying.

Anthracnose, or muchoose. The harm from the activity of this fungus lies in the fact that currant leaves are most affected. Despite the fact that the risk of this disease affecting currants is highest in the middle of summer, measures should be taken to combat it already at the beginning of spring.

To do this, you need to spray the plant itself and the near-trunk circle of the soil with a nitrafen solution (60%). Even before flowering, the currants are treated with a solution of colloidal sulfur, and after a few weeks the operation is repeated.

Cockroaches are pests that pose a significant danger. They multiply quickly and spread the infection. Even the cleanest can pick up this attack. It is enough to have negligent neighbors who do not seek to poison cockroaches.

Through the ventilation ducts, through the balcony and from the entrance, mustachioed pests seep into the apartment and multiply quickly. Their appearance causes persistent disgust, and upon finding an insect on the table, in a bread bin or a drawer with dishes, the housewives experience a huge shock and immediately think about how to poison the cockroaches in the apartment.

How to understand that cockroaches have appeared at home?
Insects are great experts in camouflage. They hide during the daytime, preferring to travel in search of food at night. They like shaded secluded places closer to the food source - near the table, trash can, sink.

Traces of insects in the room

You may find:

Small black dots. This is the excrement that insects leave on dishes, wallpaper, furniture.
Clutches with eggs. The female lays a small pouch of chitin (ooteca), which contains 15 to 90 eggs. They ripen for 30-90 days, so the premises must be re-processed.
Specific smell. Dead insects, their waste products, oodema remnants - all this becomes a source of an unpleasant odor.
You can also see the cockroaches themselves in the room where they live. Some are so self-confident that they travel in search of food in the daytime, which greatly upsets the inhabitants of the house.

What is the best way to poison cockroaches?
Given the cunning and vitality of these insects, it is very difficult to remove them. The reason why it is not possible to achieve 100% of the effect is in the difficult coverage of all rooms at the same time and the immunity of oodes with eggs to most influences.

Reference. Ooteca protects eggs from poisons and toxins, temperatures from -15 to + 55 ° C.

When processing a room, you can kill only a part of the insects, and others will soon replace them. But still you need to try, the main thing is to know how to kill cockroaches at home.

Here is a rough list of tools:

Aerosols. They need to process the places of potential residence of cockroaches (vents, behind the sink, near the bin).
Poisons. They have different forms of release - from crayons, which can be used to cover the back wall of furniture, to powder, which must be mixed with the yolk, and put poisonous bait in places where pests are located.
Home remedies. The most popular are boric acid and ammonia. The first is simply scattered or egg balls are prepared, and with the second they wash the floor.
Traps. Have a bait that attracts cockroaches.
Scarers. They emit vibrations that insects do not like.
There are other remedies, but they all have limited effectiveness.

How to kill cockroaches: disadvantages of home methods
The problem in removing pests is only one surface treatment and a small coverage of the room. In addition, most of the chemicals used are:

spoil textiles, curtains, upholstery;
harmful to pets, birds and aquarium fish;
worsen the environment and negatively affect human health.
Therefore, many people choose a more modern and effective way to get rid of cockroaches forever - professional room treatment and ozonation.

DFD service: helping to kill cockroaches!
Our service provides odor, dust and insect removal services. Having entrusted our home, office or storage room to us, we will clean it from cockroaches, associated biological contaminants and a specific stench from insects within 24 hours.

We know perfectly well how to quickly kill cockroaches in an apartment, country house, where and how best to poison them at home. We use safe ozonation, which disinfects the air and kills all cockroaches.

You can find out in advance how much it costs to poison cockroaches in an apartment - the price is indicated on the corresponding page of the site. The cost is quite acceptable for the family budget.

Call to call specialists with experience to poison cockroaches. We guarantee that you will enjoy the quality of services and the service provided. We are always glad to help you!

The spring list of works in the raspberry plant includes the following procedures:

Pruning raspberry bushes after the winter hibernation.
Garter bushes.
Top dressing.
Treatment with special means for the destruction of pests.
Pruning raspberry bushes in spring is carried out in two passes. The first time work with bushes begins immediately, after the snow melts and the temperatures are above zero. In different regions of the country, this period occurs at different times. For example, in the middle lane it may even be in early April. But in the northern regions, you can expect freezing temperatures until the beginning of May.

How to prune raspberries The first step is to cut out all damaged stems that have not survived the winter period well. This can be mechanical damage, infected with a disease or stems that have died from severe frosts. If signs of vital activity of raspberry gall midge, which is one of the main pests, are found on the bushes, such stems must be cut off.

Since the strong bushiness of raspberries leads to loss of yield, it is necessary to carry out cutting, aimed at reducing the stems. There are two ways to plant raspberry bushes, tape and bush. As experts advise, with the belt planting method, it is recommended to leave twenty-five stems per running meter. With the bush method, not less than eight, but not more than twelve.

In order for raspberry bushes to receive the full amount of nutrients and sunlight, the ideal distance between the stems remaining after pruning should not be less than ten centimeters. But it is even better if a distance of fifteen centimeters is maintained.

Bushes must be tied up between the first and second pruning. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the awakened delicate kidneys. It is advisable not to tamp the earth around the bushes when tying up. To prevent this from happening, boards are laid between the bushes, along which the one who will work with the bushes will need to move.

The second pruning is planned when the raspberry begins to grow actively. The task of the second pruning is to pinch the tops so that all the main forces of the bush go to future fruiting branches, and not to the growth of the raspberry tree.

Spring feeding of raspberries
Regardless of the condition of the soil in the raspberry tree in the spring, it is imperative to apply fertilizers. If the bushes grow on poor soils, then you need to take care of feeding more carefully.

Feeding raspberries This crop bears fruit well after applying almost all fertilizers. But she also has preferences in the form of potash, nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. As a rule, nitrogen fertilizers are valuable for spring feeding, which make it possible to activate the growth of shoots, and the leaf to grow to its full size, without allowing it to be chopped. In addition, the lack of nitrogen plays an important role in the formation of a good harvest, and if the plant lacks it, you can forget about the abundance of fruits.

If the bushes lack phosphorus, then with an abundance of nitrogen fertilizers, the sprouts will grow, but they will be weakened and stunted.

Potash top dressing is important for a good harvest. In addition, if the potash fertilizer was applied in full, this will allow the raspberry bushes to easily endure the winter period.

You need to start fertilizing the raspberry plant immediately after the snow has melted from the beds in the spring. And the first to introduce nitrogen fertilizers, which must be applied at the rate of not less than ten grams of ammonium nitrate per one square meter of raspberries. Instead of ammonium nitrate, you can take urea and feed the plants in the same proportions.

But it should be borne in mind that raspberries react negatively to the increased acidity of the soil, so experienced gardeners recommend adding one glass of ash under each bush. You can also use an equivalent replacement of ammonium nitrate with potash. Such a replacement will make it possible to replenish the nitrogen reserve of the soil, but will not oxidize it. Before fertilizing, the soil is watered abundantly.

How to feed raspberries Some gardeners over the years have developed their own recipe for feeding raspberries. It includes one part nitrate, one part potassium for two parts superphosphate. This mixture is diluted in water. For one hundred grams of fertilizer, you need to take ten liters of water.

When the period of loosening the soil in the raspberry tree comes, the time comes for the introduction of organic fertilizers. Both peat compost and humus are suitable as mulch. You can also use manure with straw.

Already at the end of spring, in May, there is a practice of feeding raspberries with a mullein. The proportion is respected at the rate of five hundred milliliters of mullein per large bucket of water. You need to water so as to pour five liters of solution per one square meter of planting.

How to deal with pests and diseases of raspberries in the spring
Spring is the main time to combat pests that prevent raspberry bushes from bearing fruit and developing properly. There are special pests that cause special damage to raspberries, these are:

Raspberry beetle.
Stem fly.
Strawberry-raspberry weevil.
Shoot gall midge.
Without spring treatment with chemicals from these insects, raspberries will have little chance of bearing fruit.

The first stage of pest control begins already in early spring, when pruning of bushes is carried out, which is described in the first chapter of the article. Digging soil around the raspberry bushes is also helpful. In the ground, pests lay their larvae, which hibernate there. By carefully cultivating the soil, the larvae can be removed, which will reduce the number of harmful insects that should have hatched and damage the shoots, inflorescences or fruits. Larvae can also be deposited in last year's foliage, so the raspberry tree must be cleaned.

All pruned raspberry branches in which pests have been found must be burned. Using them in a compost pit can only provoke the breeding of pests in your area.

Fighting the raspberry beetle
Fighting the beetle It is necessary to start treating the bushes with chemicals from pests, as well as all work in the raspberry tree from early spring. From the raspberry beetle, which actively appears on plants during flowering and destroys flowers, buds, leaves, you need to defend yourself after the snow has melted and the bushes have been cut and tied. An effective fighter against this pest is a nitrafen solution, which is diluted in a proportion of two hundred grams per ten liters of water. Moreover, it is necessary to spray not only the bushes, but also the land that surrounds them.

You can process raspberry and infused herbs. For the solution, you will need bitter wormwood and marigold flowers. Two hundred grams of the crushed collection of marigolds are poured with ten liters of water and insisted for two days. Wormwood is prepared in the same proportions, only it is kept for about two hours. Then the two solutions are filtered from the rest of the plants and mixed.

Fight against raspberry gall midge
Raspberry gall midge is dangerous for its larvae, which damage the shoots. You can notice damage to the bushes if you look closely at the branches. If there is a larva inside, then growths form on the branch. If found, such damaged branches must be mercilessly cut and burned.

The fight against galitsa To prevent the emergence of new pests in early spring, it is necessary to treat the ground dug ten centimeters with a solution of fufanon. The proportions for its preparation are as follows: for ten liters of water fifteen, or even all twenty milliliters of fufanon. The second time spraying must be repeated when the buds are tied. But this time the proportions are different, ten milliliters to ten liters of water. Each bush needs to be processed with at least two hundred milliliters of a diluted solution.

The same effect on raspberry gall midge has actellik, which is diluted fifteen milliliters in ten liters of water. Spend at least two hundred milliliters on each bush.

Stem fly control
How to get rid of a raspberry fly This pest is dangerous only to raspberry bushes. Damaging young shoots, stem fly promotes decay of greenery, infecting an infection.

Preventive measures that can reduce the number of these pests are mulching, which will make it difficult for hatched flies to come to the surface.

For better effectiveness, before flowering raspberries, the bushes must be treated with one of these drugs:

Fitoverm.
"Aktellikom".
"Agravertine".
There are no effective folk remedies that could reduce the number of this pest.

Diseases that are dangerous for raspberries are gray rot and anthracnose. From anthracnose, the bushes are treated with nitrafen in early spring. The solution is diluted so, in ten liters of water, two hundred grams of nitrafen. From gray rot, raspberries are sprayed with a three percent solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Diseases and pests can not only reduce the raspberry yield, but also completely nullify all the work of gardeners. The use of chemicals and timely cultivation of the land will significantly increase the chances of the raspberry plant achieving the highest yield possible.

Mold can be waiting for you in any corner of the house, the worst thing is that very often the owners of houses and apartments are not even aware of its existence. Mold under linoleum is one of the most common problems that occurs in homes that have not been renovated for a long time. When the need to change the flooring comes, it turns out that for many years a harmful microorganism - mold - lived with you. The question "how to remove mold under linoleum?" becomes very acute and requires a quick and easy response. The DFD Fungus and Mold Removal Service is ready to suggest a few simple rules when removing mold under linoleum with your own hands.

Why did mold appear under the linoleum?
There are many reasons for the appearance of mold under linoleum. It should be noted that mold itself takes root in many conditions, and can live even at "atypical" temperatures and humidity rates. Therefore, practically no one is insured against mold in the house. In practice, the most common causes of mold in the house are:

Error during floor installation;
When installing linoleum, it is imperative to dry the floor so that the concentrated moisture does not remain there for many years. Such a problem lies in wait for those who poured under concrete or leveling device. Dry the floor after repair work, and only then lay the linoleum.
Poor insulation of the floor from moisture (often found in private houses or on the ground floors);
Adhere to the rules of installation work and recommendations that the manufacturers declare. With the correct laying of linoleum, you need to lay a substrate, view the joints of walls and slabs. Every effort must be made to keep moisture out of the floor, otherwise mold will appear in a couple of years.
Too humid room without ventilation;
Bathrooms and kitchens suffer greatly from fungus and mold. Moisture is soaked into literally everything, even linoleum. Provide ventilation, this can prevent mold and mildew on walls, ceilings and furniture.
The plumbing problem.
Even a few drops a day can cause mildew under the linoleum. Listen to the plumbing and inspect it regularly, perhaps this will prevent not only the appearance of mold in the future, but will help not to flood the neighbors below.
How to get rid of mold under linoleum with your own hands?
If such a problem has already been found, you need to completely replace the linoleum. Unfortunately, without this it will not be possible to get rid of her forever. We dismantle the linoleum, clean the floor surface from mold (always with a stiff brush or spatula), process the infection site with specials. means and we lay new linoleum.

When cleaning, try to completely remove the mold. We recommend opening the windows and turning on the ventilation, as mold spores will rise into the air. As a means for processing, you can use:

Purchased funds;
A solution of soda and vinegar;
Copper sulfate.
None of these products give a 100% guarantee of the result. And it will be possible to check the reliability of the facility only after a while. After processing, you can lay a new linoleum, and hope that this will not happen again.

We recommend using ozonation services before laying new linoleum. Ozone destroys all spores in the air and crevices, and prevents their appearance for many months. Ozonation is the most reliable means of all, which guarantees the result, and you do not have to hope, and you will be sure that mold will not appear under the linoleum. The mold and mildew removal service is always happy to help you in this difficult fight!