hardywaltz:
Please where can I buy Deye 8kva inverter here in Nigeria?

hardywaltz:
Please where can I buy Deye 8kva inverter here in Nigeria?

Reach me for contact of someone that could possibly have OR maybe he is here as well

Contact Mr Chris of AWPS, I believe he will be of help.

hardywaltz:
Please where can I buy Deye 8kva inverter here in Nigeria?

Please house, I need a suggestion on good 24v 2.5kva or 3kva pure sine wave inverter to buy.
Also can I join 300 watts *2 solar panels with 250watts *2 panels

Thank you for the information.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
It must be connected to a conductor with very low resistance/impedance to ground.

Earth rod, wire mesh, earth mat, buried copper wire, building metal reinforcement (ufer ground), water main (water corporation pipe), metallic frame used to mount water tank are all possibilities either as stand alone or a mix.

Just know that if you use a public utility like water pipe, you may be executing your neighbor a few houses away or some random kid playing around if you have a fault diverted to earth. Of course it can't be traced back to you and you yourself may not even know you electrocuted anybody so no biggie I guess

The goal is to measure resistance 5ohms or less after your earthing is done (some say 25ohms) and be able to maintain this value over the years.

If you don't have a good earth point for faults to go to, please do not install an SPD as you would just be making things worse.

Driving a few rods some 8 to 20 feet down can be done at low cost and small footprint - you do not really need those massive pits that our people like to dig - use a coupler and drive down two or three rods coupled together in one spot, move away thrice the depth of the coupled rods and sink another set and be done with it - judicious choice of soil site for earth rod or soil treatment with enhancement material will ensure permanent results.

Above all measure else you can never tell how good or bad your earth is.

See below a customer with poor earth before and after driving rods down and we did the extra rods in his flower bed without disrupting anything - two coupled rods in the house and another two coupled rods outside.

We met the facility's own earth at 44ohms, we joined it to the estate earth point which was reading 51ohms to get a combined 22ohms - this convinced the customer the benefit of multiple points bonded together - then we drove down additional rods as I explained above and got 5.3ohms - this is in Lekki sandy soil, no treatment or enhancement as the man did not want to ruin his lovely garden so did not permit to dig a hole or even use an auger

There used to be a literature back in the days suggesting that having more than one earthing was bad practice. Never really agreed with it then.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
It must be connected to a conductor with very low resistance/impedance to ground.

Earth rod, wire mesh, earth mat, buried copper wire, building metal reinforcement (ufer ground), water main (water corporation pipe), metallic frame used to mount water tank are all possibilities either as stand alone or a mix.

Just know that if you use a public utility like water pipe, you may be executing your neighbor a few houses away or some random kid playing around if you have a fault diverted to earth. Of course it can't be traced back to you and you yourself may not even know you electrocuted anybody so no biggie I guess

The goal is to measure resistance 5ohms or less after your earthing is done (some say 25ohms) and be able to maintain this value over the years.

If you don't have a good earth point for faults to go to, please do not install an SPD as you would just be making things worse.

Driving a few rods some 8 to 20 feet down can be done at low cost and small footprint - you do not really need those massive pits that our people like to dig - use a coupler and drive down two or three rods coupled together in one spot, move away thrice the depth of the coupled rods and sink another set and be done with it - judicious choice of soil site for earth rod or soil treatment with enhancement material will ensure permanent results.

Above all measure else you can never tell how good or bad your earth is.

See below a customer with poor earth before and after driving rods down and we did the extra rods in his flower bed without disrupting anything - two coupled rods in the house and another two coupled rods outside.

We met the facility's own earth at 44ohms, we joined it to the estate earth point which was reading 51ohms to get a combined 22ohms - this convinced the customer the benefit of multiple points bonded together - then we drove down additional rods as I explained above and got 5.3ohms - this is in Lekki sandy soil, no treatment or enhancement as the man did not want to ruin his lovely garden so did not permit to dig a hole or even use an auger

Go solar e no go cost u much new deal in town works on it own u only need d sun nothing more make ur house look spectacular all nite
5k u no go believe am

Can you provide a reference please?

AFAIK, all certifying authorities that issue code and regs agree that multiple ground rods reduce the effective resistance and therefore increases the effectiveness of earthing. The trick is to space the sunken rods apart 2 to 3 times their depth.

What is frowned upon is isolating the ground rods hence all earth installations in a facility must be bonded together - this is primarily for personnel safety as the ground between two unbonded rods could become a conductor and kill persons or animals caught in the line of fire - apparently this used to happen a lot in the U.K and North America on farms and so on.

ojesymsym:
There used to be a literature back in the days suggesting that having more than one earthing was bad practice. Never really agreed with it then.

Nice contribution, being toying with the idea of using multimeter but no way around it except using normal L-P.E or N-P.E
But
How much will this earth tester cost?

I used it during one of Schneiders training but theirs is more fancier than the displayed one here.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
It must be connected to a conductor with very low resistance/impedance to ground.

Earth rod, wire mesh, earth mat, buried copper wire, building metal reinforcement (ufer ground), water main (water corporation pipe), metallic frame used to mount water tank are all possibilities either as stand alone or a mix.

Just know that if you use a public utility like water pipe, you may be executing your neighbor a few houses away or some random kid playing around if you have a fault diverted to earth. Of course it can't be traced back to you and you yourself may not even know you electrocuted anybody so no biggie I guess

The goal is to measure resistance 5ohms or less after your earthing is done (some say 25ohms) and be able to maintain this value over the years.

If you don't have a good earth point for faults to go to, please do not install an SPD as you would just be making things worse.

Driving a few rods some 8 to 20 feet down can be done at low cost and small footprint - you do not really need those massive pits that our people like to dig - use a coupler and drive down two or three rods coupled together in one spot, move away thrice the depth of the coupled rods and sink another set and be done with it - judicious choice of soil site for earth rod or soil treatment with enhancement material will ensure permanent results.

Above all measure else you can never tell how good or bad your earth is.

See below a customer with poor earth before and after driving rods down and we did the extra rods in his flower bed without disrupting anything - two coupled rods in the house and another two coupled rods outside.

We met the facility's own earth at 44ohms, we joined it to the estate earth point which was reading 51ohms to get a combined 22ohms - this convinced the customer the benefit of multiple points bonded together - then we drove down additional rods as I explained above and got 5.3ohms - this is in Lekki sandy soil, no treatment or enhancement as the man did not want to ruin his lovely garden so did not permit to dig a hole or even use an auger

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Can you provide a reference please?

AFAIK, all certifying authorities that issue code and regs agree that multiple ground rods reduce the effective resistance and therefore increases the effectiveness of earthing. The trick is to space the sunken rods apart 2 to 3 times their depth.

What is frowned upon is isolating the ground rods hence all earth installations in a facility must be bonded together - this is primarily for personnel safety as the ground between two unbonded rods could become a conductor and kill persons or animals caught in the line of fire - apparently this used to happen a lot in the U.K and North America on farms and so on.

Thanks for the clarification. I understand what you meant is you can have multiple earthing rods, but once it is tied together they act as one massive earthing rod, with earthing connected to the nearest rod.

What ojesymsym referred to, is also correct, based on your explanation. Some people use multiple earth rods, which are isolated from each other in the same building, which I understand is what this literature say is "wrong".

Thanks both of you for the clarification, but somehow I still do not really agree with the reasoning that having isolated earthing not bounded together should poise that much of a problem. My common sense engineering knowledge makes me think that such charges will look for the lowest and nearest resistance to discharge, in that case a nearby earthing may be the best option.

Personally, I earth the frames of my panels after seriesing the frames, close to where they are. Most panels usually have at least one hole or opening indicated with an earth symbol that can be earthed.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Can you provide a reference please?

AFAIK, all certifying authorities that issue code and regs agree that multiple ground rods reduce the effective resistance and therefore increases the effectiveness of earthing. The trick is to space the sunken rods apart 2 to 3 times their depth.

What is frowned upon is isolating the ground rods hence all earth installations in a facility must be bonded together - this is primarily for personnel safety as the ground between two unbonded rods could become a conductor and kill persons or animals caught in the line of fire - apparently this used to happen a lot in the U.K and North America on farms and so on.

microgiant:


Thanks for the clarification. I understand what you meant is you can have multiple earthing rods, but once it is tied together they act as one massive earthing rod, with earthing connected to the nearest rod.

What ojesymsym referred to, is also correct, based on your explanation. Some people use multiple earth rods, which are isolated from each other in the same building, which I understand is what this literature say is "wrong".

ojesymsym:
Thanks both of you for the clarification, but somehow I still do not really agree with the reasoning that having isolated earthing not bounded together should poise that much of a problem.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
What is frowned upon is isolating the ground rods hence all earth installations in a facility must be bonded together - this is primarily for personnel safety as the ground between two unbonded rods could become a conductor and kill persons or animals caught in the line of fire - apparently this used to happen a lot in the U.K and North America on farms and so on.

You got your answer.

Yes I saw that. I am not saying they are wrong but I am just not convinced.

My thinking is that the earth is such a large reservoir that once a charge from either points of earthing enters it, it gets lost so the question of it conducting between the different rods seems to me very very unlikely. But then, who knows?

microgiant:




You got your answer.

olopan:
Contact Mr Chris of AWPS, I believe he will be of help.

He already follows him here on Nairaland

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You are correct that the earth is an infinite sink but lightning is also an incredible amount of force.

When you channel lightning through an earth rod some of it may easily radiate around the rod helped by moist soil (during rainfall e.t.c) and arc to another buried metal object - rod or whatever - any living thing in that path tends to get electrocuted. If you bond the rods together there can be no arcing or voltage difference between them - this is what is called an 'equipotential bond'

This is not really a matter for conjecture or debate as there is documented evidence of people and animals getting electrocuted in this exact manner. Further the people that spec code do so after exhaustive research and testing and consultation with industry experts.

ojesymsym:
Yes I saw that. I am not saying they are wrong but I am just not convinced.

My thinking is that the earth is such a large reservoir that once a charge from either points of earthing enters it, it gets lost so the question of it conducting between the different rods seems to me very very unlikely. But then, who knows?

This particular UniT costs between 65k and 90k depending on your source - the premium ones go over 200k easily and yet all you are trying to measure is resistance between rod and earth.

Fluke have an excellent article explaining the difference between accuracy and precision for measurement instruments

A good way to look at precision is the arrangement of holes/points of impact on a shooting-range target. Assume that your rifle is aimed at the bullseye and you shoot from the same position each time.

If the holes are tightly packed but outside the bullseye, the rifle (or shooter) can be considered precise but not accurate.

If the holes are tightly packed within the bullseye, the rifle is both accurate and precise.

If the holes are spread randomly all over the target, then the rifle (or shooter) is neither accurate nor precise.

In some circumstances, precision, or repeatability, is more important than accuracy. If measurements are repeatable, it’s possible to determine an error pattern and compensate for it.

In my case I chose precision (repeatability) over accuracy because I have a reference measurement to validate against - the meter itself boasts a + or - 2% metric

olopan:
Nice contribution, being toying with the idea of using multimeter but no way around it except using normal L-P.E or N-P.E
But
How much will this earth tester cost?

I used it during one of Schneiders training but theirs is more fancier than the displayed one here.

olopan:
Contact Mr Chris of AWPS, I believe he will be of help.

Fwiw the number that contacted me to inform me that he has Deye is not Chris but ofcourse Chris may have as well

My 4kWp Canadian Solar array (255W Poly PV × 16) churned out an impressive 19kWh today despite their age. Had them cleaned today and didn't even max them out. Yingli and SolarWorld alone have rivalled this thus far in my experience.

Thanks NiyiOmoIyunade for convincing me to get these panels (I didn't wanna get rid of my JoySolar panels; they were pricey at the time of purchase) and thanks Zeestone99 for the supply (3rd or 4th year now, I believe). Discovered later on that NiyiOmoIyunade also stocks authentic Canadian Solar panels.

Thank you for the honorable mention my Oga.

Canadian Solar really fire - I remember recounting here how my Canadian Solar produced more cumulative energy in one year of use than my Flames had produced in 2 years and they were sitting side by side on thesame roof.

Canadian solar have never dissappointed in any way in all my years using them.

In the last few months I have been playing with Yingli as well due to a more affordable price point to customer. I can attest that they do very well too - daily harvest 4 times nameplate on a regular basis.

Saipro:
My 4kWp Canadian Solar array (255W Poly PV × 16) churned out an impressive 19kWh today despite their age. Had them cleaned today and didn't even max them out. Yingli and SolarWorld alone have rivalled this thus far in my experience.

Thanks NiyiOmoIyunade for convincing me to get these panels (I didn't wanna get rid of my JoySolar panels; they were pricey at the time of purchase) and thanks Zeestone99 for the supply (3rd or 4th year now, I believe). Discovered later on that NiyiOmoIyunade also stocks authentic Canadian Solar panels.

Oh! Have no idea

kiekie1:


He already follows him here on Nairaland

Nicely explained, thanks for the clarification.

I will look into getting one soon

We noticed many electrician have bad earthing with leakage in the wake of their works

NiyiOmoIyunade:
This particular UniT costs between 65k and 90k depending on your source - the premium ones go over 200k easily and yet all you are trying to measure is resistance between rod and earth.

Fluke have an excellent article explaining the difference between accuracy and precision for measurement instruments

A good way to look at precision is the arrangement of holes/points of impact on a shooting-range target. Assume that your rifle is aimed at the bullseye and you shoot from the same position each time.

If the holes are tightly packed but outside the bullseye, the rifle (or shooter) can be considered precise but not accurate.

If the holes are tightly packed within the bullseye, the rifle is both accurate and precise.

If the holes are spread randomly all over the target, then the rifle (or shooter) is neither accurate nor precise.

In some circumstances, precision, or repeatability, is more important than accuracy. If measurements are repeatable, it’s possible to determine an error pattern and compensate for it.

In my case I chose precision (repeatability) over accuracy because I have a reference measurement to validate against - the meter itself boasts a + or - 2% metric

The last time we tried partnership with Yingli, the but charge didn't take us serious .... So we took our business to Flames as a budgetary panel but these days ....

The name plates stats we observed are between 2.93 to 3.1 of name plate and it's quite not that fantastic to me.

In our recent install the Canadian PERC cells beat flames Half-cut cells which were suppose to be more efficient over conventional PERC cells...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Thank you for the honorable mention my Oga.

Canadian Solar really fire - I remember recounting here how my Canadian Solar produced more cumulative energy in one year of use than my Flames had produced in 2 years and they were sitting side by side on thesame roof.

Canadian solar have never dissappointed in any way in all my years using them.

In the last few months I have been playing with Yingli as well due to a more affordable price point to customer. I can attest that they do very well too - daily harvest 4 times nameplate on a regular basis.

olopan:
The last time we tried partnership with Yingli, the but charge didn't take us serious .... So we took our business to Flames as a budgetary panel but these days ....

The name plates stats we observed are between 2.93 to 3.1 of name plate and it's quite not that fantastic to me.

In our recent install the Canadian PERC cells beat flames Half-cut cells which were suppose to be more efficient over conventional PERC cells...

After like 4years of use, check flame production. You will be deadly shocked!

Flames is a none existence brand(i want to believe it is/was a label in naija)

A Nigerian brand - Yes

I believe they partner with a company in China called RENEPV

I hope that's not the case after four years plus it's a good thing we made our research in the field to know these things.

Looks like it's time to shift ground

Oshomo12:


After like 4years of use, check flame production. You will be deadly shocked!

Flames is a none existence brand(i want to believe it is/was a label in naija)

Please can I join 250 watts*2 solar panel with 300watts * 2, if yes how can I connect them in series and parralell?
Thanks

The standard Naija electrician package is some lumps of charcoal and industrial salt all mixed together around the rod - poor contact area between charcoal lumps and rod and salt leaks away after a bit of rainfall. Such an earth install will fail sooner than later.

This is big trouble to a PV installer because soon enough equipment fails when the surges cannot safely go to ground and you will be held responsible. So we are forced to rework things for system longevity.


What you are wanting is solid contact between rod and earth that will resist time so encase the rod in conductive material e.g GEM premix or fine charcoal powder and cement (Ufer like ground/concrete encase electrode) - these days I just go deep (couple two rods together) and sink more rods in more than one location, bond them all and be done with it.

Yes you need an earth tester - only then would you be able to gauge the effectiveness of an earth install

olopan:
Nicely explained, thanks for the clarification.

I will look into getting one soon

We noticed many electrician have bad earthing with leakage in the wake of their works

Integratedpower:
Please can I join 250 watts*2 solar panel with 300watts * 2, if yes how can I connect them in series and parralell?
Thanks

Yes if you don't mind a reduced performance especially from 300w. However It should only be in parallel.... i.e 2s2p. 300s in series, 250s in series then paralleled.

Really informative thanks sharing this valuable information with us i have shared this on my [url="https://tecktak.com"]blog[/url]

If you go ahead to do this.

You will lose power

300W will work like 250W

Hopefully the 250W is in good condition else total power may be little than expected.

Better get a separate CC as each works independently.

Happy Holidays everyone

Integratedpower:
Please can I join 250 watts*2 solar panel with 300watts * 2, if yes how can I connect them in series and parralell?
Thanks

Tecktak:
Really informative thanks sharing this valuable information with us i have shared this on my [url="https://tecktak.com"]blog[/url]

With whose permission?