Good evening house, I was driving home today
and on heavy traffic and noticed that my temperature reading was on half mark, I quickly turned off the AC and it dropped to it's usually temperature level.

I got home and scanned and was getting these error codes. And I just changed my gear oil in April, no abnormally, no blinking, no blinking and gear shifts fine.

Please gurus, what do I do,

Car details,
Honda Accord 2004, 4plug, automatic

CjEmmar:
Good evening house, I was driving home today
and on heavy traffic and noticed that my temperature reading was on half mark, I quickly turned off the AC and it dropped to it's usually temperature level.

I got home and scanned and was getting these error codes. And I just changed my gear oil in April, no abnormally, no blinking, no blinking and gear shifts fine.

Please gurus, what do I do,

Car details,
Honda Accord 2004, 4plug, automatic

Good morning.

What brand of scanner did you use?

I intend to get one.

CjEmmar:
Good evening house, I was driving home today
and on heavy traffic and noticed that my temperature reading was on half mark, I quickly turned off the AC and it dropped to it's usually temperature level.

I got home and scanned and was getting these error codes. And I just changed my gear oil in April, no abnormally, no blinking, no blinking and gear shifts fine.

Please gurus, what do I do,

Car details,
Honda Accord 2004, 4plug, automatic

Go to your mechanic and tell them to service your gearbox big switch. If it doesn’t work then change it. I hope you used the recommended fluid during change or else you have bigger issues.

Originakalokalo:


Good morning.

What brand of scanner did you use?

I intend to get one.

OBD 2 scanner

Conner44:


Go to your mechanic and tell them to service your gearbox big switch. If it doesn’t work then change it. I hope you used the recommended fluid during change or else you have bigger issues.

I use the recommended Honda fluid, also will a high rpm cause it, because at first start in the morning, the rpm will be around 1800 then it gradually drops to 1000rpm, then after driving for about 30-40mins, it drops to 600-800 rpm

CjEmmar:


I use the recommended Honda fluid, also will a high rpm cause it, because at first start in the morning, the rpm will be around 1800 then it gradually drops to 1000rpm, then after driving for about 30-40mins, it drops to 600-800 rpm

NO.

What you described above is a normal operation.
Infact, it should drop to 800 in fifteen minutes or less. (650 if AC is on)
Edit--
650 when gear is in D and car is not in motion (brake pedal is depressed)"

Conner44:


Go to your mechanic and tell them to service your gearbox big switch. If it doesn’t work then change it. I hope you used the recommended fluid during change or else you have bigger issues.

Can you please share a picture of the *big switch*
Or the name

CjEmmar:



OBD 2 scanner

Thanks....

Could you please be specific?

petrusevents:


Can you please share a picture of the *big switch*
Or the name

Apart from the gearbox valve body (which can get blocked by debris) and the clutch packs (fiber) your gearbox solenoids too can cause drivability issues whenever they develop electrical problems or they get clogged due to bad fluid.

In the picture below all the gearbox solenoids and switches for the EOD 4 plugs is shown.

The BIG switch is AT CLUTCH PRESSURE SOLENOIDS VALVES B & C (one unit with two heads/wire plugs on the front of the gearbox facing the cooling fan) I put a picture of the switch too

while the SMALL switch is AT CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A (single unit on top of the gearbox directly under the battery tray) I also put a picture of this switch

So if you scan your vehicle and any of the codes point to any one of these solenoids directly you can go shared and clean or change them to fix your problems.

CjEmmar:


I use the recommended Honda fluid, also will a high rpm cause it, because at first start in the morning, the rpm will be around 1800 then it gradually drops to 1000rpm, then after driving for about 30-40mins, it drops to 600-800 rpm

Yes that’s the right fluid. I hope it’s the real one you used and not a fake because there’s a lot of those going around.

Driving around with a high rpm will definitely make your vehicle overheat. If you’re going up and down with your idle above 1k rpms you’re at a risk of it overheating especially if your thermostat is installed and functioning properly.

Check why your rpm is high and checkmate it. It might either be a vacuum leak (air getting into your intake via a torn hose) or your iacv valve on your throttle body (injector mouth) is malfunctioning.

davessales039:


NO.

What you described above is a normal operation.
Infact, it should drop to 800 in fifteen minutes or less. (650 if AC is on)

NO

It’s not normal. When you start the engine it should idle as high as 1.5k-1.8k rpm and gradually drop to between 750-800rpm when the vehicle is warmed up.

When you put your ac on it should dip to like 650-700rpm and immediately climb back up to the initial 750-800rpm and hold steady. Same with when you put the gear in D with your foot on the brakes.

While you’re turning your power steering either left or right the idle from 750-800rpm should climb to 850-900rpm and immediately drop back down to the initial 750-800rpm and hold steady as well.

That is the proper idling sequence for the EOD that hasn’t been abused.

Good evening bosses, I’m in need of a skilled and trusted mechanic around yaba, lagos.

Anybody with recommendations?

CjEmmar:
Good evening house, I was driving home today
and on heavy traffic and noticed that my temperature reading was on half mark, I quickly turned off the AC and it dropped to it's usually temperature level.

I got home and scanned and was getting these error codes. And I just changed my gear oil in April, no abnormally, no blinking, no blinking and gear shifts fine.

Please gurus, what do I do,

Car details,
Honda Accord 2004, 4plug, automatic

The temperature going above usual mark might be as a result of weak fan. Do a visual inspection of your fans to make sure they are both up to speed. Happened to me last week. I parked at ShopRite for about 15minutes, I noticed my temperature needle was higher than normal. I opened the bonnet and discovered one fan wasn't working, I gave it a little tap and it started working... I quickly went and replaced it. Now the temperature needle has come back to its normal point.

quam9997:
Good evening bosses, I’m in need of a skilled and trusted mechanic around yaba, lagos.

Anybody with recommendations?

Make your way to Honda village, willoughby street, it’s at oyingbo near you over there. That’s your one stop shop for all Honda mechanical geniuses in Lagos

Hello Conner44. Thank you for the wonderful response. Pls I want to confirm how many quartz of the Original Honda ATF DW is required for EOd 2004 Transmission. Thank you as you respond.

Conner44:


Apart from the gearbox valve body (which can get blocked by debris) and the clutch packs (fiber) your gearbox solenoids too can cause drivability issues whenever they develop electrical problems or they get clogged due to bad fluid.

In the picture below all the gearbox solenoids and switches for the EOD 4 plugs is shown.

The BIG switch is AT CLUTCH PRESSURE SOLENOIDS VALVES B & C (one unit with two heads/wire plugs on the front of the gearbox facing the cooling fan) I put a picture of the switch too

while the SMALL switch is AT CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A (single unit on top of the gearbox directly under the battery tray) I also put a picture of this switch

So if you scan your vehicle and any of the codes point to any one of these solenoids directly you can go shared and clean or change them to fix your problems.

Conner44:


Make your way to Honda village, willoughby street, it’s at oyingbo near you over there. That’s your one stop shop for all Honda mechanical geniuses in Lagos

I’m familiar with that place but the problem is I don’t know who to trust there

ThePundit14:
Hello Conner44. Thank you for the wonderful response. Pls I want to confirm how many quartz of the Original Honda ATF DW is required for EOd 2004 Transmission. Thank you as you respond.

For a regular drain and fill you’d need 3 quarts but if you’re overhauling the gearbox you’d need up to 9 quarts.

quam9997:


I’m familiar with that place but the problem is I don’t know who to trust there

I myself don’t know who to recommend for mechanical issues at oyingbo but for electrical issues contact Tobi 0708 988 5601

Pls what do you mean by Overhauling. The last time I changed the Transmission fluid was about 10months ago. I'm thinking it's due I want to drain it out and refill, so would I use 9 quartz in this instance? Thank you Boss

Conner44:


For a regular drain and fill you’d need 3 quarts but if you’re overhauling the gearbox you’d need up to 9 quarts.

Please who has a very good and trusted technician at oyingbo I can take my accord 09 to? I want to work on the legs. Thanks

ThePundit14:
Pls what do you mean by Overhauling. The last time I changed the Transmission fluid was about 10months ago. I'm thinking it's due I want to drain it out and refill, so would I use 9 quartz in this instance? Thank you Boss

Anything that makes someone separate the gearbox from the engine and bring it down is the same as overhauling. You should change the fluid for a proper job period.

Cleaning solenoids and checking electrical switches doesn’t really require a change of fluid plus draining fluid regularly via the drain plug takes the regular 3 quarts to refill back to guage.

Thank you Boss!. Understood.

Conner44:


Anything that makes someone separate the gearbox from the engine and bring it down is the same as overhauling. You should change the fluid for a proper job period.

Cleaning solenoids and checking electrical switches doesn’t really require a change of fluid plus draining fluid regularly via the drain plug takes the regular 3 quarts to refill back to guage.

Conner44:


Make your way to Honda village, willoughby street, it’s at oyingbo near you over there. That’s your one stop shop for all Honda mechanical geniuses in Lagos

I know the place but my fingers have been burnt before that’s why I’m looking for a recommendation

Conner44:


I myself don’t know who to recommend for mechanical issues at oyingbo but for electrical issues contact Tobi 0708 988 5601

Thank you

beeoohtee:
Thank you for your input.
I don't know if the thermostat hasn't been removed. Beside I haven't experienced any overheating. The temperature guage is alway half way up when the engine is fully warmed up. The radiator fan works in its factory settings (thermostat controlled).
Infact I use recommended coolant and not the regular water

I am really skeptical about installing a thermostat due to the fear of Overheating oo

Please do you drive a civic or any honda of 1.8L engine? If yes, What's the average fuel economy (MPG/KMPL) on your car?

Still ensure that the thermostat is working.....the amount of money thermostat don save me during this post-covid can't be quantified. Imagine my fuel economy jumping from 8mpg to 13mpg just by installing thermostat and using radiator coolant, isn't that a fortune

Anybody?

visita:
Please who has a very good and trusted technician at oyingbo I can take my accord 09 to? I want to work on the legs. Thanks

Conner44:


NO

It’s not normal. When you start the engine it should idle as high as 1.5k-1.8k rpm and gradually drop to between 750-800rpm when the vehicle is warmed up.

When you put your ac on it should dip to like 650-700rpm and immediately climb back up to the initial 750-800rpm and hold steady. Same with when you put the gear in D with your foot on the brakes.

While you’re turning your power steering either left or right the idle from 750-800rpm should climb to 850-900rpm and immediately drop back down to the initial 750-800rpm and hold steady as well.

That is the proper idling sequence for the EOD that hasn’t been abused.

From what you described, I guess my engine RPM is fine because after 10-15mins, the rpm stays within 600-800rpm

Peppermintflav:

The temperature going above usual mark might be as a result of weak fan. Do a visual inspection of your fans to make sure they are both up to speed. Happened to me last week. I parked at ShopRite for about 15minutes, I noticed my temperature needle was higher than normal. I opened the bonnet and discovered one fan wasn't working, I gave it a little tap and it started working... I quickly went and replaced it. Now the temperature needle has come back to its normal point.

I guess the needle being on the half way mark was because I was in traffic for more than 50mins and I also discovered that the front driver side tyre was going down and when I checked the fans, they were working fine.

I drove the car today and yesterday and the temperature was normal

Conner44:


Apart from the gearbox valve body (which can get blocked by debris) and the clutch packs (fiber) your gearbox solenoids too can cause drivability issues whenever they develop electrical problems or they get clogged due to bad fluid.

In the picture below all the gearbox solenoids and switches for the EOD 4 plugs is shown.

The BIG switch is AT CLUTCH PRESSURE SOLENOIDS VALVES B & C (one unit with two heads/wire plugs on the front of the gearbox facing the cooling fan) I put a picture of the switch too

while the SMALL switch is AT CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A (single unit on top of the gearbox directly under the battery tray) I also put a picture of this switch

So if you scan your vehicle and any of the codes point to any one of these solenoids directly you can go shared and clean or change them to fix your problems.

I had a technician check it out and noticed two things, one of the solenoids socket on top of the gear box that is directly under the battery was bad and also one black cover that is small on top of the gear box was blocked with sand and all, it was cleaned and the socket was changed and after test driving and scanning again, the error codes disappointed.

But one particular code still keeps popping up, P0443, I have changed the evap purge valve but it's still showing.

Thanks for your input ��

Peterlove11:


Still ensure that the thermostat is working.....the amount of money thermostat don save me during this post-covid can't be quantified. Imagine my fuel economy jumping from 8mpg to 13mpg just by installing thermostat and using radiator coolant, isn't that a fortune

I don't have a thermostat neither do I use radiator coolant, my mechanic keeps telling me that I don't need a thermostat, I think I will get one and also use a coolant

Peterlove11:


Still ensure that the thermostat is working.....the amount of money thermostat don save me during this post-covid can't be quantified. Imagine my fuel economy jumping from 8mpg to 13mpg just by installing thermostat and using radiator coolant, isn't that a fortune

This your car mpg is bad ooo
13mpg
Which honda model

petrusevents:


This your car mpg is bad ooo
13mpg
Which honda model

Honda Pilot.... it's city mpg. Mostly 2.5miles to and fro work daily with alot of stops and move in between. Am yet to take it on a long distance journey in 2yrs, so can't comment on highway mpg but am sure it will definitely be better. Before installing thermostat I use a full tank and half in a month for my movement, but now I rarely finish a full tank within a month