How far with your noilers? How many weeks old are they? Did they start laying?

etrange:
Farming is both fun and lucrative.

When I was a kid, there was a chick depot near our house. They sold in cartons, but I was able to buy one for N 15. When I got home, the little thing started following me everywhere I went. It was probably hungry and couldn't eat what I was feeding it. I can't remember what happened to it eventually, but I remember people laughing when they saw us together. If I weren't into tech, I'd probably be into animal husbandry. I like taking care of animals.

Nice one, OP. Good luck!

Tech guru please sponsor me for poultry business even if na small scale I get experience

StriveHard:
How far with your noilers? How many weeks old are they? Did they start laying?

Since they refused to lay, I got discouraged no jare. But they surprised me yesterday with this.

They will be six months on Monday.

jidestroud:

funny dude

But the thing about noilers is the ability to play around with all kinds of feeds & still get positive results. Giving them commercial feeds won't be advisable in this case. Yes, you can improvise with all sorts. They are built for such purposes. In my case, I used all sorts, from using Spent grains, Corn waste from processing pap, bought bags of pkc and wheat offal for mixing, to going to Alaba to buy waste grains from mallams engaged in grinding grains of all sorts... Trust me, your noilers will do just fine since you have no target in front of you.
And if you still insist on little funds, why no dispose off some?

All the advices I have been getting, I took none. I should have reduced the number long ago, but I thought I will lose massively selling them in bits. In short, I have sold some males and the running cost is a bit reduced.

olab059:


If I'm to make any suggestion to you, go back to commercialized feed like Top Feeds...even if you feed them less than they're meant to eat in a day, it will still be better than feeding them with the formulated feed you're experimenting with. You will always get better results with commercialized feed.

I went back to Ultima finisher and within two weeks of that, they layed. We saw three eggs yesterday. We will be buying layers from this point.

As a beginner, here are some of the things we've learnt.

1. Use quality feeds for a start: if you try to cut corners, you might regret it. You stand a risk of losing everything(deaths, stunted growth, delayed laying) if you are trying to be too clever.

2. Manage it yourself: one of our greatest problems was giving the management to a worker. Very few people will treat your investment like theirs. Moreover, you know better what you'd like to achieve with such investments. Handle it yourself.

3. Don't administer vaccine alone: let an experienced farmer guide you on how to do it. Failed vaccination can lead to the loss of your entire stock.

4. Don't allow visitors get into your pen, unless they're experienced farmers there to help. If they can't help the business, please don't allow them in.

5. Start small: don't start with what you won't be able to manage properly. Do your research. Know what they will need to survive and plan accordingly in making sure that's available.

We need help with hatching the eggs and getting a structure to house the chicks. If you know where we can hatch in Ilorin and probably a pen for rent, we'd appreciate that.

idrisaleo1:
We need help with hatching the eggs and getting a structure to house the chicks. If you know where we can hatch in Ilorin and probably a pen for rent, we'd appreciate that.

I pray that you make headway with this project. There is a pen not too far from your place. Iyana baba saka the junction beside that item 7. Not far from the junction if you are interested, i can give you the contact of the owner

Musty112:

I pray that you make headway with this project. There is a pen not too far from your place. Iyana baba saka the junction beside that item 7. Not far from the junction if you are interested, i can give you the contact of the owner

Aamin. Please, I am interested. Thank you.

idrisaleo1:


I went back to Ultima finisher and within two weeks of that, they layed. We saw three eggs yesterday. We will be buying layers from this point.

Wow! That's great.

olab059:


Wow! That's great.

Thanks Boss.

idrisaleo1:


Aamin. Please, I am interested. Thank you.

Zero Eight One Two One Six Seven Nine Two Nine Eight. He bears alfa lanre

Musty112:


Zero Eight One Two One Six Seven Nine Two Nine Eight. He bears alfa lanre

Thanks

Small small

idrisaleo1:
Small small

Wow that's good, you have started to reap the fruit of your labor.

I will appreciate if you post the picture of your noilers let see their growth

KingBosco:

Wow that's good, you have started to reap the fruit of your labor.

I will appreciate if you post the picture of your noilers let see their growth

Why you want de give me body na?

Some of the males are for sale. 1700 per live kg.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9t-V5GLwsGM

Why I decided to raise Kuroilers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIDvLPcEtSc

Selling off some of the Cocks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWD-cJYBizw

Have a glimpse of how we feed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVXAQCZK2D4

There's something particularly wrong with your formulated feed and when trying out something like this you would have tried it with a few birds first.

While wrong formulation could produce poor results, its not so likely to result it weak birds or death esp if you are dealing with noiler or kuroiler.

I will suspect the feed constituents. You may have gotten a material that is defective (spoilt).

I've been breeding noiler birds in very small quantities for about 2 years now and I have often been quite careless with the quality and quantity of feed I give them because of financial constraints but I get away with it especially when they were indoors. I've raised several small batches that had never tasted any medication and didn't loose any. I currently only give medication on a need basis.

I commonly have losses of young ones now that they are on free range and its mostly now that its rainy season. During the dry season they were mostly okay.

You are spending too much on your noiler birds especially with the expensive feed.

I've been feeding mine with "rubbish" for a long time now and they'd been doing fine except that I've recently not been able to access adequate quantities of the "rubbish".

idrisaleo1:


The change really affected them that they can barely stand and we lost some sef. We went back to industrial feed and they are getting better. The formulated feed was a lot more expensive but less effective. We wouldn't be going back to that soon.

Redomi:
She don hatch since Saturday, but I'm not happy because most of the eggs did not hatched. She hatched just 1 turkey, 2 noiler and 2 naked neck. I remove all the chicks on Sunday and gave her 17 naked neck eggs to brood for 21 days, she is sitting on them, I will take care of the chicks

Did you take care of them like this without heating?

Again I'll tell you that you don't need any strict formula for producing feed for kuroiler birds. Noiler and Kuroiler birds are meant to scavenge and forage on free range. They can convert and thrive very well on waste. They'll do better eating enough waste than being hungry.

I start my noiler and turkey birds with the cheapest commercial grower feed I can find. After two or 3 weeks I begin to mix the grower with sieved PKC (2 PKC: 1 Grower). After two months they are on semi free range eating mostly spent grain, cassava waste from foofoo processing, wheat offal and whenever I can I also get weeds for them (esp centrocima).

The noiler start laying around 6 months or a little later. I don't mind. It's good enough for me.

I'm still planning on experimenting on other alternative feed options.

The last pic is their feed (Brewery spent grain, cassava waste (foofoo byproduct), and wheat offal.

idrisaleo1:


Can you give me your formula, please? The whole idea behind the choice of kuroiler is to feed them cheaply and get fertile eggs. When I make my calculations for corn, corn chaff, soya bean meal and limestone, the cost that will produce 650 kg of that ingredients is 146k. And a guy promised to produce that at 135k. I just need a cheap formula in short, oga mi sir .

safarifarms:


Did you take care of them like this without heating?

I gave the heat for the first 10 days

safarifarms:
There's something particularly wrong with your formulated feed and when trying out something like this you would have tried it with a few birds first.

While wrong formulation could produce poor results, its not so likely to result it weak birds or death esp if you are dealing with noiler or kuroiler.

I will suspect the feed constituents. You may have gotten a material that is defective (spoilt).

I've been breeding noiler birds in very small quantities for about 2 years now and I have often been quite careless with the quality and quantity of feed I give them because of financial constraints but I get away with it especially when they were indoors. I've raised several small batches that had never tasted any medication and didn't loose any. I currently only give medication on a need basis.

I commonly have losses of young ones now that they are on free range and its mostly now that its rainy season. During the dry season they were mostly okay.

You are spending too much on your noiler birds especially with the expensive feed.

I've been feeding mine with "rubbish" for a long time now and they'd been doing fine except that I've recently not been able to access adequate quantities of the "rubbish".

Thank you so much for your concerns. I greatly appreciate them. I made a huge mistake formulating the feed. I added excess limestone and that affected the birds hugely.

I've always wanted to raise them on a free-range, but things don't work according to plans. I'm trying to move to the village where they can freely forage their feeds. I'll get them waste from restaurants hopefully and most likely supplement that with corn.

I so much appreciate your comments.

safarifarms:
Again I'll tell you that you don't need any strict formula for producing feed for kuroiler birds. Boiler and Kuroiler birds are meant to scavenge and forage on free range. They can convert and thrive very well on waste. They'll do better eating enough waste than being hungry.

I start my noiler and turkey birds with the cheapest commercial grower feed I can find. After two or 3 weeks I begin to mix the grower with sieved PKC (2 PKC: 1 Grower). After two months they are on semi free range eating mostly spent grain, cassava waste from foofoo processing, wheat offal and whenever I can I also get weeds for them (esp centrocima).

The noiler start laying around 6 months or a little later. I don't mind. It's good enough for me.

I'm still planning on experimenting on other alternative feed options.

The last pic is their feed (Brewery spent grain, cassava waste (foofoo byproduct), and wheat offal.

Once I get to where they can forage, they will learn o. Na one month old I will send them out to forage oo. What do you have to say to that? And yes, I have spent quite a bit. Kuroiler farming is just a bit difficult to do in the city. All things being equal, I'll be in the village soon.

Please help me boss, how do you incubate? I need something reliable. Not entirely convinced with the kerosene incubator. What degree should I be targeting with the kerosene incubator?

idrisaleo1:


Once I get to where they can forage, they will learn o. Na one month old I will send them out to forage oo. What do you have to say to that? And yes, I have spent quite a bit. Kuroiler farming is just a bit difficult to do in the city. All things being equal, I'll be in the village soon.

Please help me boss, how do you incubate? I need something reliable. Not entirely convinced with the kerosene incubator. What degree should I be targeting with the kerosene incubator?

I'd tried the keep incubator and failed. The major problem you will have is regulating the temperature as the temperature raises and falls about every hour of the day so it kinda needs you to stay put beside the incubator which I couldn't do. Temp should be 37.8C but I sometimes had 40 to 42C.
1st attempt with 10eggs, non hatched. 2nd attempt with 30 eggs, hatched only 2. I gave up.

I've been using local hens to hatch before the incubator attempt and have continued to use that.

When I have enough money for solar then I'll build an electric incubator with auto temp regulation

safarifarms:

I'd tried the keep incubator and failed. The major problem you will have is regulating the temperature as the temperature raises and falls about every hour of the day so it kinda needs you to stay put beside the incubator which I couldn't do. Temp should be 37.8C but I sometimes had 40 to 42C.
1st attempt with 10eggs, non hatched. 2nd attempt with 30 eggs, hatched only 2. I gave up.

I've been using local hens to hatch before the incubator attempt and have continued to use that.

When I have enough money for solar then I'll build an electric incubator with auto temp regulation

That's really nice. Thanks a lot.

idrisaleo1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVXAQCZK2D4

I watched this video last night. Where did you get this design? I'm very skeptical about your incubator design. How is the heat going to circulate?

With the partitions completely covered or blocked from air coming from the lower partition, I think it will require excessive heat that would heat up the whole incubator body for the heat to get to the 1st egg tray talk less of the 2nd egg tray. So much heat energy may be lost to the environment adding unnecessary extra kerosene cost.

safarifarms:

I watched this video last night. Where did you get this design? I'm very skeptical about your incubator design. How is the heat going to circulate?

With the partitions completely covered or blocked from air coming from the lower partition, I think it will require excessive heat that would heat up the whole incubator body for the heat to get to the 1st egg tray talk less of the 2nd egg tray. So much heat energy may be lost to the environment adding unnecessary extra kerosene cost.

Its just an experiment. Saw that on YouTube, maybe I'm wasting a bit more kerosene but I'm getting 35 to 40 degree Celsius. Fingers crossed.

And thank you for watching my nonsense 😹. Please subscribe.

Having to check it always is a bit stressful. I need a recommendation for someone that can build an automatic solar/electricity powered incubator, please.

idrisaleo1:



Its just an experiment. Saw that on YouTube, maybe I'm wasting a bit more kerosene but I'm getting 35 to 40 degree Celsius. Fingers crossed.

And thank you for watching my nonsense 😹. Please subscribe.

Having to check it always is a bit stressful. I need a recommendation for someone that can build an automatic solar/electricity powered incubator, please.

I didn't expect that you can't have the required temperature but that it will consume more kero than necessary. And the upper tray may not easily receive as much heat for both to be used simultaneously.

I wish you can check the temperature on both egg trays at once to see if you can have uniformity for both to be used at once.
I'm also curious, does the sides of the incubator heat up too? I suspect the sides may even be warmer than the 2nd egg tray compartment.

Can you point me to the youtube video where you found this design?

Also I hope you know you should be turning your eggs 3x or at least 2x daily till the 18th day.

On automatic/electric powered incubator, you should be able to easily find videos on youtube for that. It's the kero powered incubators that has quite few videos and most are not detailed enough and most are only meant for one tray of eggs.