₦airaland Forum

bassdow:

That would depend on if were you in Science or Commercial or Art class While in SeniorSecondarySchool

Saipro:
Let's pretend I know nothing of the underlying science and (as the public forum this is) you want to educate the readers of this thread.

Let's pretend YOU know EVERYthing of the underlying science and (as the public forum this is) you want to WASTE 
TIME OF the readers of this thread.

Saipro:
Interesting. However, I concur with your publications. I've been on this path for over 25 years so my tenure as "gateman of the technology corridors" has given me lots of exposure. I have a stack of BYD LiFePO4 batteries bought off an industrial setup which was written off as end-of-life; they were cycled heavily and at somewhat high temperatures. Grade A batteries however.

A few years down the line and they're undoubtedly the best cost per Watt investment I've ever made in my renewable energy journey. I bought 3 sets for 3 different homes and everyone wishes they'd bought more. Fridge, freezer and AC in my house are permanently on. [b]Whenever you see Grade A cells, grab 'em! [/b]They're rarely advertised for long.

EDIT: I should mention I charge at 1C up to 70% then gradually throttle down as they approach full charge. Every 4 months, they sit at full charge for a few weeks (top balancing) then are cycled between 20% and 85%. They almost never fall below 40%, even when I cook for our mini-parties (I use induction cookers).

Saipro:
Interesting. However, I concur with your publications. I've been on this path for over 25 years so my tenure as "gateman of the technology corridors" has given me lots of exposure. I have a stack of BYD LiFePO4 batteries bought off an industrial setup which was written off as end-of-life; they were cycled heavily and at somewhat high temperatures. Grade A batteries however.

A few years down the line and they're undoubtedly the best cost per Watt investment I've ever made in my renewable energy journey. I bought 3 sets for 3 different homes and everyone wishes they'd bought more. Fridge, freezer and AC in my house are permanently on. Whenever you see Grade A cells, grab 'em! They're rarely advertised for long.

EDIT: I should mention I charge at 1C up to 70% then gradually throttle down as they approach full charge. Every 4 months, they sit at full charge for a few weeks (top balancing) then are cycled between 20% and 85%. They almost never fall below 40%, even when I cook for our mini-parties (I use induction cookers).

bassdow:

Let's pretend YOU know EVERYthing of the underlying science and (as the public forum this is) you want to WASTE 
TIME OF the readers of this thread.

bassdow:
That ADVICE of yours might not always work, because not everyOne has got the quality of knowledge like you do. Plus it's not always gonna be same way. That it worked well for you that time, doesn't necessarily mean it would work same on next attempt.

isangjohnson:
If I may ask, how do you recognize grade A cells?
Dubious cells sellers has taken advantage of people's ignorance in this field.
As for me, I don't usually ask for grade A cells because of the high price. I only request for quality cells from the company I used to buy from. Once I charge the cells at 1C up to about 70% before I throttled down, discharge at 1C down to 3.0v and see 0.03v to 0.04v voldiff, then the cells are quality ones for me.
From my personal experience, irrespective of how well one top balance defective or bad cells, charging and discharging will not gets to 1C before you start seeing voldiff of 0.20v to 0.30v

Saipro:
I apologise, if the science statement rubbed off you the wrong way. I come from all 3 backgrounds. I merely believe your readers come from all walks of life. This thread began as a way to be a compendium/resource for all things to support the FTA rave of the time. Along the way, it became about all things renewable energy and the FTA aspect was relegated to the background.

I'll simply state what I had in mind. Peukert's law. You were talking about power equivalents thus a comparison of 12V 400AH vs 24V 200AH vs 48V 100AH is apt, being the same stored energy quantity. I₁V₁ = I₂V₂ =I₃V₃. It means one could draw the same amount of energy at lower current, if you raise the nominal voltage. In practical applications, the amount of power each is capable of delivering differs, as energy drawn varies due to discharge inefficiencies (mostly as a result of the internal resistance of the batteries vis a vis a resultant heating too). As a result, higher voltage systems would often perform more efficiently, as the amount of energy drawn increases. In practice, the upper limit of continuous discharge in a 12V system is about 6kW, beyond which you stand a real risk of melting the battery terminals or creating weird fluxes in the electrolyte (if FLA). Most conventional chargers don't exceed 120A thus limiting charge to an 1.8kW max anyway.

The resistance of the cabling matters just as much. This is why cable diameter and transmission distance matter! Multi-stranded chosen as superior to single strand.

My intention was not to waste anyone's time.

bassdow:
FUNNY enough, I took no offence in what you said or didn't.
When I am in here, na to deStress maself. Moreover no be everyBody get strength to vex.

My response was more like You understood me, YET probably pretending you didn't so I speak further, BUT you forget say food don cost, so we dey talk small small nowAdays so as to conserve energy.

As for all the grammar and formular you write above, if we begin do like that, mean say we don forget say no be everyBody sabi reach such level.

For here, I prefer writing in ways even the DUMB ones among us, expecially us wey go backYard college, go grab.
if you begin state law, write formulars,, and speak big big gramar, most of us go loss.

Now all things bbeing SAME, it's much more efficient INVERTing from higher voltage, than from lower voltage hence 48-volts system is much efficient, than 24-volts system, and 12-volts system is more efficient than trying to BOOST from 5-Volts to say 240-Volts.

casualobserver:
True.

Interesting read that also shatters the misconception that testing for capacity is an indication of the quality of a cell.

A grade B cell can test for capacity and be dead in 3 years.

https://www.lifepo4-battery.com/News/EVE-GRADE-A.html

bassdow:
FUNNY enough, I took no offence in what you said or didn't.
When I am in here, na to deStress maself. Moreover no be everyBody get strength to vex.

My response was more like You understood me, YET probably pretending you didn't so I speak further, BUT you forget say food don cost, so we dey talk small small nowAdays so as to conserve energy.

As for all the grammar and formular you write above, if we begin do like that, mean say we don forget say no be everyBody sabi reach such level.

For here, I prefer writing in ways even the DUMB ones among us, expecially us wey go backYard college, go grab.
if you begin state law, write formulars,, and speak big big gramar, most of us go loss.

Now all things bbeing SAME, it's much more efficient INVERTing from higher voltage, than from lower voltage hence 48-volts system is much efficient, than 24-volts system, and 12-volts system is more efficient than trying to BOOST from 5-Volts to say 240-Volts.

samir101ng:
Why go through that long process when you can get from dealers in Abuja ?

JA Solar, Jinko and Longi all have reps in Abuja that can supply you here. If your in the DIY Telegram group, send me a DM.

kiekie1:
HIGH QUALITY BATTERY !! DISCOUNTED SALES !!!

STARPLUS 12v 220a tubular battery.
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Price:
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N114,000 "2 units",
N110,000 "8 units upwards" ...

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75a ...... 25,000
100a .... 35,000

For further enquiry & purchase;
Contact,
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CALL LINE: 081-350-31951
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Saipro:
I apologise, if the science statement rubbed off you the wrong way. I come from all 3 backgrounds. I merely believe your readers come from all walks of life. This thread began as a way to be a compendium/resource for all things to support the FTA rave of the time. Along the way, it became about all things renewable energy and the FTA aspect was relegated to the background.

I'll simply state what I had in mind. Peukert's law. You were talking about power equivalents thus a comparison of 12V 400AH vs 24V 200AH vs 48V 100AH is apt, being the same stored energy quantity. I₁V₁ = I₂V₂ = I₃V₃. It means one could draw the same amount of energy at lower current, if you raise the nominal voltage. In practical applications, the amount of power each is capable of delivering differs, as energy drawn varies due to discharge inefficiencies (mostly as a result of the internal resistance of the batteries vis a vis a resultant heating too). As a result, higher voltage systems would often perform more efficiently, as the amount of energy drawn increases. In practice, the upper limit of continuous discharge in a 12V system is about 6kW, beyond which you stand a real risk of melting the battery terminals or creating weird fluxes in the electrolyte (if FLA). Most conventional chargers don't exceed 120A thus limiting charge to an 1.8kW max anyway.

The resistance of the cabling matters just as much. This is why cable diameter and transmission distance matter! Multi-stranded chosen as superior to single strand.

My intention was not to waste anyone's time.

isangjohnson:
Please, those that are using Jbd bms should give me more education on it.
I attached 150A Jbd bms to 160ah 48v battery bank and carried out all the settings to the best of my knowledge.
The major challenge I'm having now is how to push the soc to 100% while charging. The soc usually stop at 98% with individual cells of about 3.4v each.
At this point, the individual cells will keep charging, moving forward to my set value of 3.45v each and the TotalVolt will equally move to 55.22v.
Why is the soc not moving to 100% as the individual cells and TotalVolt are moving?
At 3.45v each cells and 55.22v TotalVolt, the battery is fully charged and won't accept charge again. Once I noticed this, I would go to Control and click on Reset Capacity to push the soc to 100%.
Is this the usual practice in jbd bms?

isangjohnson:
Please, those that are using Jbd bms should give me more education on it.
I attached 150A Jbd bms to 160ah 48v battery bank and carried out all the settings to the best of my knowledge.
The major challenge I'm having now is how to push the soc to 100% while charging. The soc usually stop at 98% with individual cells of about 3.4v each.
At this point, the individual cells will keep charging, moving forward to my set value of 3.45v each and the TotalVolt will equally move to 55.22v.
Why is the soc not moving to 100% as the individual cells and TotalVolt are moving?
At 3.45v each cells and 55.22v TotalVolt, the battery is fully charged and won't accept charge again. Once I noticed this, I would go to Control and click on Reset Capacity to push the soc to 100%.
Is this the usual practice in jbd bms?

Saipro:
By tomorrow, it would be two years since my last post here. Life happens but I'm back, better than ever. I see a lot has changed. That's the nature of the world. I've missed you all. Let's get back to business.

oloet:
It has to do with your SOC settings, here is my battery

isangjohnson:
This is mine. The soc usually stop at 98% while the individual cells and TotalVolt will keep charging till it gets to the set value.
Could you please let me know the settings?
Thanks

oloet:
I don't know why picture refused to upload, please send me mail at my username@yahoo.com with your WhatsApp number

isangjohnson:
I'll do that now Sir.
Thanks

Valto:
change *single full voltage* on your bms app to 3.47v..nothing wrong with your bms

bassdow:
can't suggest any at your price range. Except you want to buy USED.

See eh, suggesting ain't even enough because of lots of rePackaged batteries in the market.

Buy yeye batttery, and you would find yourself having them changed every year. e no go even complete 12-months sef.
First e go start to QUICK full, then e go start to QUICK low
You're better off buying USED quality battery that still have strength, than those funny brand new batteries wey full market. Even their price cheap pass USED batteries.

if you can't afford all the batteries you need, buy in bits - first buy quality solar panels, then quality [used] chargeController (MPPT is better) of higher capacity, then you could get away with buying cheap [used] inverter (depending on your energy requirements, sachet inverter should do), after which, should you need 5-batteries, just buy what your money can carry and manage it.
whenever you have more money, add extra solar panels and add to your existing setup. Solar panel is hardly enough. Just keep adding tll you have had at least 15-pcs of 300Watts panels. I don't often trust those panels of higher wattage, dem fit no complete. Also leave canada based Panels, na Nigeria we dey abeg.

Then constantly be on the lookout for quality USED batteries for sale. No go buy just any USED battery Ooo. OR better still save to buy a few batteries BUT most times, you might not actually need much batteries if you responsibly size your loads.
You don't have to run your Fridge / Freezer the entire day. You could power it ON from the moment your battery bank is Filled up (say 12PM), and Time is less than 3PM , and as soon as it's 3:30PM , you power it off, that should be approoximately +3 hours which is kinda enough. tell your household they shouldn't open the Fridge or freezer any how.

If you have things like Pumping machine, get a generator to power it. No need using solar on it. Leave that for those with deep pockets.

Just focus on overSizing your solar Panels. if you have much more of the panels, you would require less batteries, except you intends running lots of heavy loads at night and for long periods.
With overSized solar Panel array, you could even comfortably run your AiirConditioner during the day.

You also mustn't buy Tubular batteries, the normal Dry cell woorks well also. What matters is it's quality.

bassdow:
For a 48-volts inverter system, you need a minimum of 4-batteries (4pcs of batteries * 12-volts = 48-volts)

Now to properly charge a 12Volts 200AH battery daily, you need at least 2pcs of 300Watts solar panel. hence for 4-batteries, it's 2pcs of solar panel * 4 pcs of batteries = 8pcs of 300Watts solar panel.

So you need a minimum of 8 pcs of 300Watts solar panels. if you could buy more than 8pcs, better as your inverter 
could handle up to 16-pcs of 300Watts solar panels.

Meanwhile you didn't state the spces of your chargeController, or if you have any at all.

kristien4:
Hello bro... do you know about this trojan tubular batteries(made in USA), are they good.? Theyre being advertised/sold by gennex technologies

bassdow:
Don't know about gennex technologies BUT the trojan batteries I know of, are one of the Bestest Best batteries BUT I haven't personally used them BUT have installed it on 2 occassions. Issue be say, they are VeryVeryVeryVery expensive.
When you hear Solar batteries c ould last more than 8-years, Trojan bbatteries are those sort of batteries.

kristien4:
Gennex say na 245k... is that what u mean by very very expensive?