₦airaland Forum

9jeem:
Good Evening guys, I have a 2004 Honda Accord EOD, the gear is jerking when switching to gear 1 & 2 but after that it move well but recently the gear fail at times that i need to off the engine and wait for some second then start again, please i need help on how to overcome this

From your description, it seems your 2004 Honda Accord EOD may be experiencing transmission-related issues. The jerking between gear 1 & 2 and the occasional gear failure that requires you to restart the engine are common signs of:
• Low or dirty transmission fluid
• Faulty transmission solenoids
• Weak pressure control valve
• Sensor/electrical faults (e.g., TCM/ECU issues)
• General wear in the gearbox

We strongly advise a full computerized diagnostic scan and transmission inspection to confirm the exact cause before it worsens. Early detection can save you from a complete transmission replacement, which is much more costly.

📍 You can bring your vehicle to Ryan Automotive Limited for a proper diagnosis and professional solution.
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📞 +234 911 306 9560
📧 ryanautomotivelimited@gmail.com

We’ll be glad to get your Accord back to smooth performance.

— Ryan Automotive Limited
Luxury Vehicle Diagnostics • Repairs • Maintenance
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.

ManAdii:
I think you did not get the complains correctly.
The car does not have that high initial rev at cold start up any more. There is something wrong somewhere since it is not how the car was operating formally.

thank you very much... U get my complain right... The car is EOD, 2003/04 model

kingreign:
Name of car, model of car, year production, engine type, recent repair carried out just before the anomaly started?

None of these important details were given

honda EOD 2003/04 Model 4 plugs. It doesn't have that high rev at cold start anymore

9jeem:
Good Evening guys, I have a 2004 Honda Accord EOD, the gear is jerking when switching to gear 1 & 2 but after that it move well but recently the gear fail at times that i need to off the engine and wait for some second then start again, please i need help on how to overcome this

Scan and post codes from transmission let's see what's going on with the car, this way, we will be able to advise properly.

minista94:
I'm having same issue but at the left back floor mat, and in the booth, mine is 2012 corolla, I don't know where it enters especially the left back floor.

Do you have a moon roof?

Kingdolla:
honda EOD 2003/04 Model 4 plugs. It doesn't have that high rev at cold start anymore

Scan and post codes, you should also carry out compression tests on all 4 cylinders to know the state of the engine.

No

Richhard:
Do you have a moon roof?

minista94:
No

If you haven't done any weird panel beating on it before, it's probably gonna be Rear windshield seal, Boot sealor Tail light seals.

Please who is familiar with this code?
P2552 for 2004 Acura TSX. Same setup as EOD.

I can't seem to find anything online.

Pictures attached...

Yes the rear back was worked on but the floor back is what I'm confused about because I'm not seeing any water either by the door or down side

Richhard:
If you haven't done any weird panel beating on it before, it's probably gonna be Rear windshield seal, Boot sealor Tail light seals.

Good day car professionals and enthusiats in the house.

Please i want to upgrade from a corolla 2010 to a direct belgium Honda 2015 or 2016, but the leg pull matter convo all over discouraged me, so thought of going for a camry 2013 to avoid leg pull.

But three days ago i saw a lexus Es350 leg pull like honda, and just today saw a corolla 06 leg pull like honda, i was not wondering whats happeneing, seems no car is safe from the leg pulling matter.

Please your humble opinion which car do you think i should go for direct belgium, and what and what should i look out for?

@kingreign @RyanAutomotive
@Richhard anf @everyone, thanks.

Jbond:
Good day car professionals and enthusiats in the house.

Please i want to upgrade from a corolla 2010 to a direct belgium Honda 2015 or 2016, but the leg pull matter convo all over discouraged me, so thought of going for a camry 2013 to avoid leg pull.

But three days ago i saw a lexus Es350 leg pull like honda, and just today saw a corolla 06 leg pull like honda, i was not wondering whats happeneing, seems no car is safe from the leg pulling matter.

Please your humble opinion which car do you think i should go for direct belgium, and what and what should i look out for?

@kingreign @RyanAutomotive
@Richhard anf @everyone, thanks.

The reasons why cars pull legs aren't far fetched.
1. Ignorant and/or carefree owner,
2. Wicked mechanic,
3 wicked/deceitful part seller.
4. Wicked/careless evil govt.

That said. 10th gen accord from 2013 upwards to not pull legs.

kingreign:
The reasons why cars pull legs aren't far fetched.
1. Ignorant and/or carefree owner,
2. Wicked mechanic,
3 wicked/deceitful part seller.
4. Wicked/careless evil govt.

That said. 10th gen accord from 2013 upwards to not pull legs.

Ok so i should go for the 2015 or 2016 accord, thanks for the assurance, let me rest from overhyped toyota.

kingreign:
The reasons why cars pull legs aren't far fetched.
1. Ignorant and/or carefree owner,
2. Wicked mechanic,
3 wicked/deceitful part seller.
4. Wicked/careless evil govt.

That said. 10th gen accord from 2013 upwards to not pull legs.

Short answer: that “leg-pull” you keep seeing is most often what mechanics call torque-steer / a pulling/jerk under acceleration, not a mysterious brand curse. It’s common on FWD cars and can show up on Hondas, Toyotas and Lexus alike. 

What usually causes it (things to suspect and check)
• Uneven drive forces (driveshaft/CV setup), worn suspension bushings, ball-joints or tie-rods. 
• Worn engine/transmission mounts, bad CV joints, uneven/defective tyres or alignment, dragging brake or wheel-bearing issues. 
• In Nigeria people also report aftermarket/substandard suspension/steering parts (ball-joints/control arms) making the problem show up more. 

Which car to pick (practical view)
• Camry 2013 — solid, easier/cheaper to maintain in Nigeria, fewer surprises if well inspected.
• Honda 2015/2016 (direct Belgium) — generally reliable, but some owners report torque-steer/jerk complaints on certain models — so insist on a clean PPI and road-test.
• Lexus ES350 — more refinement (and price); same mechanical family as Toyota so still can show the same symptoms if worn.
If you want the safest bet for low headache Camry or a properly-inspected Lexus if budget allows — but the deciding factor is the condition and service history, not the badge.

Pre-purchase checklist (must-do before import)
1. Get the VIN and full service/accident history; verify odometer. 
2. Ask for a video of a road-test showing acceleration, straight line at 20–80 km/h and steering feel.
3. Insist on a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) that checks: suspension (ball joints, control arms, bushings), engine/trans mounts, CVs, brake drag, wheel bearings, tyres, alignment and ECU fault codes. 
4. Check for heavy aftermarket parts (replace with OEM where possible) and underbody rust/damage. 
5. If you see pulling on the road-test, ask the inspector to isolate: swap tyres left↔right, check play in steering/suspension, and test with load to reproduce the pull. 

Final practical tip: don’t reject a good model just because of hearsay — buy based on inspection results. If you want, send the VIN(s) and any road-test clips you have; we can run a checklist and advise whether to import or pass.

Regards,
Ryan Automotive Limited — Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
📍 Lagos, Nigeria | +234 911 306 9560 | ryanautomotivelimited@gmail.com

RyanAutomotive:
Short answer: that “leg-pull” you keep seeing is most often what mechanics call torque-steer / a pulling/jerk under acceleration, not a mysterious brand curse. It’s common on FWD cars and can show up on Hondas, Toyotas and Lexus alike. 

What usually causes it (things to suspect and check)
• Uneven drive forces (driveshaft/CV setup), worn suspension bushings, ball-joints or tie-rods. 
• Worn engine/transmission mounts, bad CV joints, uneven/defective tyres or alignment, dragging brake or wheel-bearing issues. 
• In Nigeria people also report aftermarket/substandard suspension/steering parts (ball-joints/control arms) making the problem show up more. 

Which car to pick (practical view)
• Camry 2013 — solid, easier/cheaper to maintain in Nigeria, fewer surprises if well inspected.
• Honda 2015/2016 (direct Belgium) — generally reliable, but some owners report torque-steer/jerk complaints on certain models — so insist on a clean PPI and road-test.
• Lexus ES350 — more refinement (and price); same mechanical family as Toyota so still can show the same symptoms if worn.
If you want the safest bet for low headache Camry or a properly-inspected Lexus if budget allows — but the deciding factor is the condition and service history, not the badge.

Pre-purchase checklist (must-do before import)
1. Get the VIN and full service/accident history; verify odometer. 
2. Ask for a video of a road-test showing acceleration, straight line at 20–80 km/h and steering feel.
3. Insist on a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) that checks: suspension (ball joints, control arms, bushings), engine/trans mounts, CVs, brake drag, wheel bearings, tyres, alignment and ECU fault codes. 
4. Check for heavy aftermarket parts (replace with OEM where possible) and underbody rust/damage. 
5. If you see pulling on the road-test, ask the inspector to isolate: swap tyres left↔right, check play in steering/suspension, and test with load to reproduce the pull. 

Final practical tip: don’t reject a good model just because of hearsay — buy based on inspection results. If you want, send the VIN(s) and any road-test clips you have; we can run a checklist and advise whether to import or pass.

Regards,
Ryan Automotive Limited — Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
📍 Lagos, Nigeria | +234 911 306 9560 | ryanautomotivelimited@gmail.com

Next time, pls, take time to understand what is asked before jumping and trying to pour out syllabus.
Your response to what the OP said and I responded to are totally unrelated. Torque steer is different from leg pull.

kingreign:
Next time, pls, take time to understand what is asked before jumping and trying to pour out syllabus.
Your response to what the OP said and I responded to are totally unrelated. Torque steer is different from leg pull.

if you are not a mechanic or a real technician, I guess I shouldn’t be arguing with you or conversing with you. Please sir try and comprehend please

minista94:
Yes the rear back was worked on but the floor back is what I'm confused about because I'm not seeing any water either by the door or down side

Water is "flexible", when my moon roof drain was clogged, water usually leak at passenger side, once at driver's side and finally at the back seat, all from the roof.

It was definitely coming from the Moon roof area, when I unclogged it, it stopped.


So you gotta take your time to know where it's coming from and fix it.

Alright i will check it out

Richhard:
Water is "flexible", when my moon roof drain was clogged, water usually leak at passenger side, once at driver's side and finally at the back seat, all from the roof.

It was definitely coming from the Moon roof area, when I unclogged it, it stopped.


So you gotta take your time to know where it's coming from and fix it.

Thefarmer3:
Please how can I get O2 spacers for my Honda pilot 2007, it gives p0420 and p0430 codes simultaneously.

I have one here for sell tho

RyanAutomotive:
Short answer: that “leg-pull” you keep seeing is most often what mechanics call torque-steer / a pulling/jerk under acceleration, not a mysterious brand curse. It’s common on FWD cars and can show up on Hondas, Toyotas and Lexus alike. 

What usually causes it (things to suspect and check)
• Uneven drive forces (driveshaft/CV setup), worn suspension bushings, ball-joints or tie-rods. 
• Worn engine/transmission mounts, bad CV joints, uneven/defective tyres or alignment, dragging brake or wheel-bearing issues. 
• In Nigeria people also report aftermarket/substandard suspension/steering parts (ball-joints/control arms) making the problem show up more. 

Which car to pick (practical view)
• Camry 2013 — solid, easier/cheaper to maintain in Nigeria, fewer surprises if well inspected.
• Honda 2015/2016 (direct Belgium) — generally reliable, but some owners report torque-steer/jerk complaints on certain models — so insist on a clean PPI and road-test.
• Lexus ES350 — more refinement (and price); same mechanical family as Toyota so still can show the same symptoms if worn.
If you want the safest bet for low headache Camry or a properly-inspected Lexus if budget allows — but the deciding factor is the condition and service history, not the badge.

Pre-purchase checklist (must-do before import)
1. Get the VIN and full service/accident history; verify odometer. 
2. Ask for a video of a road-test showing acceleration, straight line at 20–80 km/h and steering feel.
3. Insist on a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) that checks: suspension (ball joints, control arms, bushings), engine/trans mounts, CVs, brake drag, wheel bearings, tyres, alignment and ECU fault codes. 
4. Check for heavy aftermarket parts (replace with OEM where possible) and underbody rust/damage. 
5. If you see pulling on the road-test, ask the inspector to isolate: swap tyres left↔right, check play in steering/suspension, and test with load to reproduce the pull. 

Final practical tip: don’t reject a good model just because of hearsay — buy based on inspection results. If you want, send the VIN(s) and any road-test clips you have; we can run a checklist and advise whether to import or pass.

Regards,
Ryan Automotive Limited — Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
📍 Lagos, Nigeria | +234 911 306 9560 | ryanautomotivelimited@gmail.com

Thanks for your input, really appreciate and it was pretty informative, especially the what car to pick idea, thanks

kingreign:
Next time, pls, take time to understand what is asked before jumping and trying to pour out syllabus.
Your response to what the OP said and I responded to are totally unrelated. Torque steer is different from leg pull.

Lol bro even though the write up was long, but the guy still made a good input, so lets cut him some slack atleast abeg.

kingreign:
The reasons why cars pull legs aren't far fetched.
1. Ignorant and/or carefree owner,
2. Wicked mechanic,
3 wicked/deceitful part seller.
4. Wicked/careless evil govt.

That said. 10th gen accord from 2013 upwards to not pull legs.

Actually i guess you meant 9th gen upwards, because 10th gen is from accord 2018 upwards

Space131:
I have one here for sell tho

Alright, how can I get it?

Can I have your contact details

Jbond:
Actually i guess you meant 9th gen upwards, because 10th gen is from accord 2018 upwards

Yes actually. Thanks for the correction.

RyanAutomotive:
Short answer: that “leg-pull” you keep seeing is most often what mechanics call torque-steer / a pulling/jerk under acceleration, not a mysterious brand curse. It’s common on FWD cars and can show up on Hondas, Toyotas and Lexus alike. 

What usually causes it (things to suspect and check)
• Uneven drive forces (driveshaft/CV setup), worn suspension bushings, ball-joints or tie-rods. 
• Worn engine/transmission mounts, bad CV joints, uneven/defective tyres or alignment, dragging brake or wheel-bearing issues. 
• In Nigeria people also report aftermarket/substandard suspension/steering parts (ball-joints/control arms) making the problem show up more. 

Which car to pick (practical view)
• Camry 2013 — solid, easier/cheaper to maintain in Nigeria, fewer surprises if well inspected.
• Honda 2015/2016 (direct Belgium) — generally reliable, but some owners report torque-steer/jerk complaints on certain models — so insist on a clean PPI and road-test.
• Lexus ES350 — more refinement (and price); same mechanical family as Toyota so still can show the same symptoms if worn.
If you want the safest bet for low headache Camry or a properly-inspected Lexus if budget allows — but the deciding factor is the condition and service history, not the badge.

Pre-purchase checklist (must-do before import)
1. Get the VIN and full service/accident history; verify odometer. 
2. Ask for a video of a road-test showing acceleration, straight line at 20–80 km/h and steering feel.
3. Insist on a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) that checks: suspension (ball joints, control arms, bushings), engine/trans mounts, CVs, brake drag, wheel bearings, tyres, alignment and ECU fault codes. 
4. Check for heavy aftermarket parts (replace with OEM where possible) and underbody rust/damage. 
5. If you see pulling on the road-test, ask the inspector to isolate: swap tyres left↔right, check play in steering/suspension, and test with load to reproduce the pull. 

Final practical tip: don’t reject a good model just because of hearsay — buy based on inspection results. If you want, send the VIN(s) and any road-test clips you have; we can run a checklist and advise whether to import or pass.

Regards,
Ryan Automotive Limited — Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
📍 Lagos, Nigeria | +234 911 306 9560 | ryanautomotivelimited@gmail.com

Be like this bobo dey use ChatGpt oo

HitmanDembele:
Hi guys, I keep finding water at the footrest of both front seats of my Rav 4 2004, it happens when it rains. Any idea where the water might be coming from?

Hello were you able to tackle this challenge if so how did you get about it?

Try and check the underneath, there are 4 drain holes covered with rubber, check if the rubber is weak, I guess water enters your car through those holes whenever you drive inside flood

overdrive:
Hello were you able to tackle this challenge if so how did you get about it?

minista94:
Try and check the underneath, there are 4 drain holes covered with rubber, check if the rubber is weak, I guess water enters your car through those holes whenever you drive inside flood

I'm almost certain he should do this 💯

Honda pilot steering keeps getting stiff, it consumes power steering oil on daily basis. Any good mechanic in Ibadan for this please?