₦airaland Forum

RyanAutomotive:
thanks for sharing that — you actually described the symptoms very clearly. Let’s break it down Lexus-style so you can understand exactly what’s going on.

⸻

🔍 1️⃣ The Real Issue: Transmission Pressure Loss When Cold

When your Lexus ES350 only selects gears 1 and 2 when cold, but refuses reverse or higher gears until it warms up — that’s a classic hydraulic pressure and clutch-pack issue inside the transmission.

Here’s what’s likely happening:
🔹 The internal fiber clutch discs are worn or slipping.
🔹 When the ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) is cold, it’s thicker — pressure builds slowly and can’t engage the worn clutches properly.
🔹 Once it warms up, it thins out, letting the valves operate more freely, but the worn clutch surfaces still can’t hold well, so it slips or revs high after gear 2.

So yes — the symptom does point toward worn fibers or valve body pressure loss, not the “brainbox.”

⸻

🔧 2️⃣ What You Should Do

Before rushing to repair:
✅ Scan the transmission system with a proper diagnostic tool — to check for solenoid or pressure control codes.
✅ Check the ATF color and smell — if it’s dark brown or smells burnt, the internal clutches are already damaged.
✅ Inspect for fluid leaks and ensure it’s not overfilled or underfilled (both can cause poor shifting).

If the fibers are truly worn, a rebuild can work — but as we often warn:

⚠️ In Nigeria, transmission rebuild success rates are low due to poor-quality friction plates, used solenoids, and wrong ATF usage.

So, for a Lexus ES350, the most reliable option is usually a Tokunbo OEM gearbox replacement, flushed and installed with new ATF WS fluid and adaptation reset.

⸻

⚙️ Our Professional Take

At Ryan Automotive Workshop, we see this on ES350 and Camry models often. We always:
🔸 Run a full TCM diagnostic scan
🔸 Test line pressure and solenoid response
🔸 Advise either a professional rebuild (with verified parts) or a direct replacement if the internals are too worn

That’s how we ensure long-term reliability instead of short-term fixes.

⸻



Your Car Deserves Precision — Not Guesswork. 💯
(We service clients across Lagos by appointment — details on our profile.)

Creditalerts:
when the car is hot it won't enter gear 3 and it revs high

RyanAutomotive:
Hey 👋, thanks for the update — that extra detail actually helps narrow things down further.

⸻

🔍 1️⃣ What That Means: Failing Clutch Pack Engagement When Hot

If your Lexus ES350 revs high and refuses to go beyond gear 2 once it’s hot, then the transmission clutch packs for 3rd gear are likely losing hydraulic pressure as the ATF thins with heat.

Here’s the breakdown:
🔹 When hot, internal seals and clutch pistons may leak pressure — so the gear never fully engages.
🔹 The valve body (the part that directs fluid pressure to each gear) can also stick or leak internally when warm.
🔹 It’s not an ECU (brainbox) problem — this is purely mechanical/hydraulic.

That’s why you still get smooth shifts when cold but poor engagement when hot — classic sign of internal clutch slip or valve body wear.

⸻

🔧 2️⃣ What You Should Do Next

✅ Perform a live transmission pressure test — to measure internal line pressure hot vs cold.
✅ Scan with a proper OBD scanner (Techstream or Launch Or Autel) — to see if there’s a code for solenoid or pressure control malfunction.
✅ Check ATF WS fluid condition — burnt smell or brown color confirms clutch wear.

If those checks confirm internal wear, then rebuilding might only last short-term — the best option for reliability is a Tokunbo OEM transmission replacement, flushed with Toyota WS fluid and adaptation reset.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We’ve fixed this exact scenario multiple times on ES350 and Camry models.
In most cases, after testing, we find internal clutch damage — and replacing the gearbox saves more money and frustration long-term than repeated rebuilds.

⸻

🚗 RYAN AUTOMOTIVE WORKSHOP | LAGOS
Precision Diagnostics | Transparent Service | OEM-Level Repairs

Your Car Deserves Precision — Not Guesswork. 💯

Creditalerts:
below is the scan result

Creditalerts:
Good day everyone,my lexus es 350 car if I don't warm the car for like 15mins in the morning it won't enter reverse when driving when the car is hot it wont enters gear 3 it starts to rev high only gear one and two is working my Kazim said it's fiber and the gear can be repaired pls I need ur advise thank you

flejnr2:
please i need help, my 2007 Avalon makes blowing noise while accelerating like the air intake manifold is not in the car, but there is nothing wrong with the air intake manifold, even the sensor was changed, also the filter was checked and it is not bad, but the sound is still there. please i don't know what else to do, also since i converted the air conditioning system to manual the car keeps burning scanners because i don't know if there was error while coupling my dashboard by the ac repairer

RyanAutomotive:
👋 Hey boss, thanks for describing that clearly — let’s go step-by-step so you don’t keep spending on trial and error.

⸻

🔍 1️⃣ The “Blowing Noise” During Acceleration

That whooshing or sucking sound like the air manifold isn’t fitted usually points to unmetered air leaks or exhaust leaks before the catalytic converter, even if everything “looks fine.”

Here’s what to double-check carefully:
• ✅ Throttle body gasket / intake boot: hidden cracks often sit under the hose folds.
• ✅ PCV hose and vacuum lines: these harden with age and leak unnoticed.
• ✅ Exhaust flex pipe or manifold gasket: if cracked, it’ll sound like air rushing out when you rev.
• ✅ Loose heat shield or resonator: can amplify air noise during throttle.

👉 Quick test: Spray a little carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the intake joints while the engine idles. If RPM rises or drops — that’s your leak.

⸻

⚙️ 2️⃣ A/C Conversion & Scanner Damage

Since you said you converted the A/C to manual, that’s a key clue.
Scanners burning means the OBD port’s 12V feed (Pin 16) may have been bridged or grounded during the dash wiring.

🔧 What to do next:
• Test the OBD port using a multimeter — Pin 16 must have +12V, Pins 4 & 5 are ground.
• Trace any extra wires linked to the manual A/C switch setup behind the dashboard.
• Isolate or correct any mixed power lines before plugging another scanner in.

That fault is electrical, not mechanical, so it needs a skilled auto electrician’s hand — not a mechanic’s.

⸻

🧰 Professional Summary

✅ The “air-blowing” sound = likely an intake or exhaust leak.
⚡ The “scanner burning” issue = wrong wiring or voltage backfeed from the A/C conversion.

Once those two are corrected, your Avalon will sound and behave normally again.

⸻

🚗 Ryan Automotive Workshop | Lagos
Precision Diagnostics | Engine Tuning Insights | Fuel Efficiency Guidance

Your Car Deserves Precision — Not Guesswork. 💯
(We service clients across Lagos by appointment — details on our profile/signature line.)

flejnr2:
thanks my brother, let me hit the mechanic with autority once again

TheHulk616:
Hello, my engine check light was on, and there is noise from one hose taking air or gas into the engine. The engine is jerking or jumping and the RPM indicator is jumping up and down. What is the problem and can I still drive this car ?

Princelumide:
good morning, i have been having series of experience with my car battery getting drained before morning or let me just if i park the car for a while like 3-4hrs, the battery would drained after that period. please what is the solution to this continuous issue?
the car is Mercedes Benz c200 kompressor (redhead engine) .
thanks and waiting for your positive feedback and possible solution.

JoaoPedro:
Please does anyone know where I can purchase the upstream o2 sensor of 2AZ Rav 4 2004 in Abuja?

TheHulk616:
Hello, my engine check light was on, and there is noise from one hose taking air or gas into the engine. The engine is jerking or jumping and the RPM indicator is jumping up and down. What is the problem and can I still drive this car ?

blezzino:
Good day everyone,
I noticed my acura mdx 09 engine sound is always high when on the road and also i noticed a blinking D during gear selection

blezzino:
Good day everyone,
I noticed my acura mdx 09 engine sound is always high when on the road and also i noticed a blinking D during gear selection

kingreign:
Go to zuba or apo

Felakezman:
Good morning all..pls i notice a jerk back on rx350 2010 when on 1500rmp..the car does not have any code on gear and engine pls what could be the problem..thanks and i await your reaponse

kingreign:
Have all mounts and bushings and inner cv joints checked. You may wish to update the TCM too.

DanXTech:
Hey guys.
This car is dealing with me. It's a 2007 ford focus. (Station wagon). Trouble no 1: the parts are Very scarce. Trouble no 2: there are no mechanics that know how to fix it.
The problems I am having with it are:

Engine going off when slowing down at the traffic.

When at a stop, the engine revs itself, going up and down.

Engine making a whistling noise.

A brief rattling noise when I start the engine.

Please I need help, I am tired 😩.

Felakezman:
I have updated the TCM YESTERDAY...still like that..also the shaft is brand new one complete..pls what else can we check thanks

DanXTech:
Hey guys.
This car is dealing with me. It's a 2007 ford focus. (Station wagon). Trouble no 1: the parts are Very scarce. Trouble no 2: there are no mechanics that know how to fix it.
The problems I am having with it are:

Engine going off when slowing down at the traffic.

When at a stop, the engine revs itself, going up and down.

Engine making a whistling noise.

A brief rattling noise when I start the engine.

Please I need help, I am tired 😩.

hontimmy:
Hello House,
I recently notice my Lexus RX350 013 check engine light always blinking when driving like 15 minutes up, esp when on top speed on the road.

Currently, the car works perfectly for some moment and later experiencing acceleration hesitation.

Did a scan today, I replace two coil and 3 spark plug, it was good for some moments, after driving around for awhile, engine check started blinking again.

Nuzzle was check, injector was cleaned and coil and spark plug was also switch, still no solution yet.

I can't rev and and speed higher with my car currently.

AC works fine, everything else also working, I can't accelerate and go on long journey with the blinking check engine to avoid serious issues.

Someone suggested the head gasket should be replaced from the original.

please, Kindly share any option for me

kingreign:
First, fix all the electrical codes and malfunctions and ensure they're okay, if your transmission still acts up, replace it.