₦airaland Forum

RyanAutomotive:
Good morning sir,

Your question is well noted — however, please always try to specify your exact vehicle details next time (for example: 2005 Lexus LX470 or 2006 Toyota Land Cruiser V8) because even though both models share the same Toyota platform (the LX470 is technically the luxury version of the Land Cruiser 100 Series), their transmission and cooling systems can differ slightly in calibration and parts configuration.

Now let’s go over your complaint in a proper diagnostic format 👇

⸻

🔧 Complaint Summary

“A/T OIL TEMP” light appears after driving for a few minutes, followed by sluggish acceleration.

⸻

🧠 Technical Breakdown

1️⃣ Meaning of the Warning

The A/T OIL TEMP light means Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is overheating.
When that happens, the transmission control module enters limp or protection mode — that’s why the vehicle refuses to accelerate normally.

⸻

2️⃣ Common Causes
• Low or degraded ATF – Old or burnt transmission fluid loses its cooling capacity, causing high temperature buildup.
• Blocked or weak transmission cooler – The small radiator (transmission cooler) in front of your main radiator may be partially blocked by debris or internal sludge.
• Faulty radiator with integrated cooler – Some Land Cruiser/LX models use a shared radiator; if it’s weak or clogged, ATF will overheat.
• Bad thermostat or fan clutch – Engine temperature can indirectly cause transmission overheating if cooling airflow is weak.
• Failing torque converter or solenoids – When these start slipping, fluid shears and overheats quickly, especially in stop-and-go driving.

⸻

3️⃣ Recommended Diagnostic Steps
1. Scan the vehicle – Use a professional diagnostic tool (Techstream or Autel) to check for transmission temperature codes or pressure faults.
2. Inspect ATF condition – Pull the dipstick when warm; fluid should be bright red, not dark brown or smelling burnt.
3. Clean and flush the transmission cooler line and confirm coolant isn’t mixing with ATF inside the radiator.
4. Check cooling fan operation – Ensure the viscous fan clutch engages fully when hot.
5. Replace fluid and filter – Use only Toyota ATF Type T-IV or WS (depending on model year).

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We’ve handled this same complaint multiple times on both LX470 and Land Cruiser 100-series V8 models.
In many cases, the transmission cooler was either clogged internally or the radiator’s built-in cooler had failed, causing the ATF to overheat.
After flushing the system, replacing the radiator, and refilling with OEM ATF, the issue completely disappeared — no more warning light, and normal acceleration returned.

⸻

✅ Professional Summary

Your transmission is going into self-protection mode because the ATF is too hot.
Don’t keep driving it like that — every time it overheats, the clutches wear faster.
Have a proper diagnostic check done immediately, starting with ATF temperature data, cooler flow, and radiator condition.

And next time, please include full vehicle details (brand, model, year, engine type) — it helps professionals like us give you the exact solution for your specific setup.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📞 Contact via profile/signature

Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

Thank you so much for taking time to give detailed explanation of the problem. I'm convinced you are a well-trained and experienced auto engineered

lawmanlala:
Thank you so much for taking time to give detailed explanation of the problem. I'm convinced you are a well-trained and experienced auto engineered

Good day, sir,

Thank you for your kind words — I really appreciate your trust and confidence in our expertise. 😊

At Ryan Automotive Limited, our focus is always on giving clear, precise guidance that ensures both safety and performance for your vehicle. I’m glad the explanation was helpful.

If you decide to carry out the diagnostic steps, or need assistance sourcing the proper ATF, radiator, or transmission service, we’re fully available to assist — ensuring the job is done right the first time.

Always feel free to reach out with any further questions about this or any other vehicle concerns — specifying the full vehicle details will help us give you the most accurate advice every time.

Wishing you smooth and worry-free driving!

⸻
Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📞 Contact via profile/signature

Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

[quote author=RyanAutomotive post=137455649]Good day, sir,

Thank you for your kind words — I really appreciate your trust and confidence in our expertise. 😊

At Ryan Automotive Limited, our focus is always on giving clear, precise guidance that ensures both safety and performance for your vehicle. I’m glad the explanation was helpful.

If you decide to carry out the diagnostic steps, or need assistance sourcing the proper ATF, radiator, or transmission service, we’re fully available to assist — ensuring the job is done right the first time.

Always feel free to reach out with any further questions about this or any other vehicle concerns — specifying the full vehicle details will help us give you the most accurate advice every time.

Wishing you smooth and worry-free driving!

⸻
Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📞 Contact via profile/signature

Ryan Automotive Workshop Division
I'm far away in uyo, Akwa Ibom State. If I were on lagos, would have taken it to you Workshop to fix for me. You have outstanding technical understanding of automotive repairs

Good morning, guys.
I have a problem with my 2004 Corolla. When on park, the RPM rises to 2 on its own; after adjustments, it happened again. I got mechanics to check and they said it's injector mouth that needs replacement. I went to Ladipo to get another, but the problem persisted. I even had the car scanned and no injector issue reported.

Can any experienced car person be of help, please? The issue is giving me concerns.

Please guys help me with your genuine plug for car parts especially suspension parts ( shocks, etc). I don’t trust my mechanic in buying parts but I completely trust him in fixing it. So I buy the parts and I give him to install/fix.

Thank you

Lovexme:
Good morning, guys.
I have a problem with my 2004 Corolla. When on park, the RPM rises to 2 on its own; after adjustments, it happened again. I got mechanics to check and they said it's injector mouth that needs replacement. I went to Ladipo to get another, but the problem persisted. I even had the car scanned and no injector issue reported.

Can any experienced car person be of help, please? The issue is giving me concerns.

have the iacv checked and also check for vacuum leaks around the intake area.

Cutezt:
My car has been giving me nightmares for the last 3 days now. I drove it to church on Sunday, it was moving very well, no problem at all, the only code prior was the camshaft sensor code which I planned to change sometime next month when I go to the mainland, so after getting to church, parked and after service, I came to the car tried starting, it refused to start, noticed the battery went completely flat as there were no lights on the dashboard, so I decided to try another battery but it still didn't start up, it was cranking but never starts, it just cranks and the stops like something is holding the pulley back, so I just parked it in church and returned the next day with a mechanic who checked everything and said he couldn't find a problem, we called a rewire who checked and found no problem too, he checked the dashboard and discovered the key light wasn't going off, it kept blinking, he suggested we called key programmers and they came and did their thing, key blinking light went away, but still no start, until he decided to check the ECU and that was when he discovered that the AC water exit hose was blocked and was draining water into the ECU, wahala!

The brainbox was literally filled with water when it was removed, it was cleaned with clutch cleaner but it didn't work, so we got another ECU hoping it's gonna work, after programming and all, car still refused to start, rewire checked the coils and found one bad cool, we replaced it, started the car again and it still refused to start, checked all fuses, everything was working fine, at this point, I Don taya, it has actually never given me this level of problems before, it has never stopped me on the road, so this one is kinda strange, please does anyone have a suggestion?

It's an 06 accord.

Good evening house, just to give updates on this.

After bringing on various island rewires, (I call them 'make i chop') they were all not able to detect what the problem was, in fact, one of them removed my oil dipstick and we found out there was almost no oil inside the engine anymore, which wasn't so cos I had enough oil that morning before I left the house, so I told him we can buy oil but he said a lack of oil shouldn't stop the car from starting, anyways, back to my story, I finally decided to get my regular rewire guy at oyingbo, but this guy na big guy, I knew it was going to take a good amount of money to bring him here himself, so I just asked him to send one of his boys whom I know. The werey brought another brain box, put it and programmed it but car was still refusing to start, he tried and tried and finally gave up, saying the brainbox they gave him was fault and he was going to change it and come back the next day, ever since, when I call am, e no dey pick call again o, I will call his oga, he will say the guy no dey gree pick him call too or stay shop, he sha finally sent another rewire who came and in less than 15 minutes, figured out that the MAP and speed sensors were bad, after changing the brainbox and programing, the car still refused to start, at that point, I was tired already, after about 30 minutes of changing plugs, he finally opened up the engine dipstick and it there was no oil, he smelled it and it was smelling like fuel, that was when he said his job was done, that what was remaining was for a mechanic to drain the engine cos it was now filled with fuel as the spoilt brainbox opened up the injector so there was a free flow of fuel into the engine, so the car can't start. He said the rewire that came first doesn't know his job cos the first thing to do to a car with a bad brainbox is to stop fuel from getting into the engine. I called my mechanic, and he came and drained approximately 10 liters or more of fuel from the engine and we put a new oil, kicked the car while pressing the accelerator, it took about 15 minutes but the car finally started, it now works, after a whole week of trying.

He advised I change the oil after a few weeks so the engine can function better, he said for the next few days, the engine will be misbehaving until all the fuel inside goes out..

Thanks house for the suggestions.

Lovexme:
Good morning, guys.
I have a problem with my 2004 Corolla. When on park, the RPM rises to 2 on its own; after adjustments, it happened again. I got mechanics to check and they said it's injector mouth that needs replacement. I went to Ladipo to get another, but the problem persisted. I even had the car scanned and no injector issue reported.

Can any experienced car person be of help, please? The issue is giving me concerns.

From your explanation, the behavior of the car already rules out injector problems. High idle on a Corolla is caused by air intake and idle control issues, not injectors — which is why replacing the injector didn’t change anything.

Let’s break it down properly:

⸻

1️⃣ Likely Causes of Your High Idle (RPM Jumping to 2k)

A. Vacuum / Air Leak

When excess air enters the engine:
• Idle rises sharply
• RPM stays high even in Park
• No error code will show

Common Corolla leak points:
• PCV valve & hose
• Intake manifold gasket
• Throttle body gasket
• Vacuum hoses
• Brake booster hose

Even a tiny leak can make RPM climb to 1,800–2,000.

⸻

B. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Sticking

If the IAC valve is dirty or stuck open, the engine allows too much air → high idle.
Most roadside “adjustments” only make it worse.

⸻

C. Throttle Body Issue / Wrong Adjustment

If the throttle body was tampered with or the throttle screw was altered, idle will never stabilize.
Corolla throttle is very sensitive.

⸻

D. ECU Idle Relearn Not Done

After cleaning or touching the throttle body, the ECU must be reset so it relearns proper idle.

If this is skipped → high or unstable idle returns.

⸻

2️⃣ Why Injector Diagnosis Was Wrong

Bad injectors cause:
• Misfire
• Rough idle
• Poor economy

They do not cause high RPM in Park.
That’s why replacing the injector changed nothing.

⸻

3️⃣ What Needs To Be Done (Correct Fix Path)

To solve this permanently:
• ✔️ Perform a vacuum leak test (smoke test ideal)
• ✔️ Clean & inspect the IAC valve properly
• ✔️ Check/replace any leaking hoses or gaskets
• ✔️ Clean throttle body (without over-adjusting)
• ✔️ Carry out ECU idle relearn procedure

This will bring the idle back to 650–750 rpm.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We handle this exact Corolla high-idle complaint very often.
Almost every case traces back to:
• Air leak,
• Stuck IAC valve, or
• Throttle body tampering.

Once the proper diagnostic procedure is followed (not guesswork), the idle normalizes and stays stable.

If you want it checked professionally and accurately here in Lagos, you can reach out to us.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

Stop using al and chat gpt.dullar d

RyanAutomotive:
From your explanation, the behavior of the car already rules out injector problems. High idle on a Corolla is caused by air intake and idle control issues, not injectors — which is why replacing the injector didn’t change anything.

Let’s break it down properly:

⸻

1️⃣ Likely Causes of Your High Idle (RPM Jumping to 2k)

A. Vacuum / Air Leak

When excess air enters the engine:
• Idle rises sharply
• RPM stays high even in Park
• No error code will show

Common Corolla leak points:
• PCV valve & hose
• Intake manifold gasket
• Throttle body gasket
• Vacuum hoses
• Brake booster hose

Even a tiny leak can make RPM climb to 1,800–2,000.

⸻

B. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Sticking

If the IAC valve is dirty or stuck open, the engine allows too much air → high idle.
Most roadside “adjustments” only make it worse.

⸻

C. Throttle Body Issue / Wrong Adjustment

If the throttle body was tampered with or the throttle screw was altered, idle will never stabilize.
Corolla throttle is very sensitive.

⸻

D. ECU Idle Relearn Not Done

After cleaning or touching the throttle body, the ECU must be reset so it relearns proper idle.

If this is skipped → high or unstable idle returns.

⸻

2️⃣ Why Injector Diagnosis Was Wrong

Bad injectors cause:
• Misfire
• Rough idle
• Poor economy

They do not cause high RPM in Park.
That’s why replacing the injector changed nothing.

⸻

3️⃣ What Needs To Be Done (Correct Fix Path)

To solve this permanently:
• ✔️ Perform a vacuum leak test (smoke test ideal)
• ✔️ Clean & inspect the IAC valve properly
• ✔️ Check/replace any leaking hoses or gaskets
• ✔️ Clean throttle body (without over-adjusting)
• ✔️ Carry out ECU idle relearn procedure

This will bring the idle back to 650–750 rpm.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We handle this exact Corolla high-idle complaint very often.
Almost every case traces back to:
• Air leak,
• Stuck IAC valve, or
• Throttle body tampering.

Once the proper diagnostic procedure is followed (not guesswork), the idle normalizes and stays stable.

If you want it checked professionally and accurately here in Lagos, you can reach out to us.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

They ave tampered with the anti theft
How can u call doff ppl fpr a small problem. Evenbif water entered the ecu.so far the car was off nothing mega..itsbypur anti theft thats precenting the car from starting.as soon asu remove ba3.anti theft locks in.fuel supply locks in.small time the alternator and ba3 would lock in. Once u remove battery, there is a sequence or pattern at which u reinstal the battery. I learnt it on youtube 2years back.pls always use the internet and tiktok.it helps a lot. Anti theft is caused by indiscriminate removal of battery..... no when connecting the battery.connect the positive first,then negative last.as soon as ubconnect it.the alarm goes off and then ress the unlock button on the remote..to unlock all door. Then get in.shut the drivers door and start the car.if it doesnt start,check the plugs they might all be dead. Car no hard to understand, unless no be u get am... disconnect the battery again. Leave it disconnected for 3 days....after the third day connect it back. By then the whole car and anti theft would have fully reset,follow the sequence i told u. Check the plugs within those 3 days. If 2 plugs don bad.even if jesus comes.the caar wont start

Cutezt:
My car has been giving me nightmares for the last 3 days now. I drove it to church on Sunday, it was moving very well, no problem at all, the only code prior was the camshaft sensor code which I planned to change sometime next month when I go to the mainland, so after getting to church, parked and after service, I came to the car tried starting, it refused to start, noticed the battery went completely flat as there were no lights on the dashboard, so I decided to try another battery but it still didn't start up, it was cranking but never starts, it just cranks and the stops like something is holding the pulley back, so I just parked it in church and returned the next day with a mechanic who checked everything and said he couldn't find a problem, we called a rewire who checked and found no problem too, he checked the dashboard and discovered the key light wasn't going off, it kept blinking, he suggested we called key programmers and they came and did their thing, key blinking light went away, but still no start, until he decided to check the ECU and that was when he discovered that the AC water exit hose was blocked and was draining water into the ECU, wahala!

The brainbox was literally filled with water when it was removed, it was cleaned with clutch cleaner but it didn't work, so we got another ECU hoping it's gonna work, after programming and all, car still refused to start, rewire checked the coils and found one bad cool, we replaced it, started the car again and it still refused to start, checked all fuses, everything was working fine, at this point, I Don taya, it has actually never given me this level of problems before, it has never stopped me on the road, so this one is kinda strange, please does anyone have a suggestion?

It's an 06 accord.

2cribz:
Stop using al and chat gpt.dullar d

No worries bro 👍 — we just try to simplify what’s going on mechanically so people can understand their vehicles better. Everyone’s free to share ideas. That’s how we all learn.

But 😂 No be everybody wey get data get sense sha. try Dey mind your business

2cribz:
Stop using al and chat gpt.dullar d

No worries bro 👍 — we just dey break am down make others fit understand their cars better. Everybody fit share idea.
But 😂 sometimes e good make person use their data for sense, not noise.

Helped my neighbour scan his car and we got this code
Can someone please share insights

My 2014 GLK 350 is having steering issues, I first noticed that when I drive faster the steering gets stiff while when it is in one place it is normal. Now that I parked it for while it has become very stiff whether moving or not. It is very very stiff. Also there are no errors in the dashboard.

oladele239:
Helped my neighbour scan his car and we got this code
Can someone please share insights

Good morning sir,

Your question is well noted.
Next time, please include the exact vehicle details (brand, model, year, engine) so we can tailor the diagnosis precisely — for example: 2005 Corolla 1.8, 2007 Camry 2.4, etc.

Now let’s break down the fault codes from your neighbour’s scan in a proper diagnostic format 👇

⸻

🔧 Complaint Summary

Four fault codes appeared after scanning the vehicle:
• P0010 – Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
• P0037 – HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
• P0113 – Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High
• P0717 – Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit – No Signal

⸻

🧠 Technical Breakdown

1️⃣ What These Codes Mean Overall

When a vehicle displays multiple electrical circuit faults at the same time, this is usually NOT four different sensors failing.
It is commonly a single underlying electrical issue, such as:
• A blown fuse
• Weak ground
• Damaged wiring loom
• 5V reference power loss
• Poor ECU/TCM power supply

Now let’s explain each code properly.

⸻

2️⃣ Individual Code Explanations

🔹 P0010 – Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)

This means the camshaft timing solenoid is not receiving the correct control voltage.

Possible Causes:
• Damaged VVT solenoid wiring
• Broken harness around the valve cover
• Low/dirty engine oil affecting solenoid operation
• Faulty actuator (less common)

⸻

🔹 P0037 – Heater Control Circuit Low (O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2)

This indicates the rear oxygen sensor heater is not getting proper voltage.

Possible Causes:
• Heater fuse blown
• Melted wiring near exhaust
• Faulty rear O2 sensor
• Poor ground supply

⸻

🔹 P0113 – Intake Air Temperature Sensor – Circuit High

This means the IAT sensor is reporting an abnormally high signal (often because it’s unplugged).

Possible Causes:
• Sensor plug loose or disconnected
• Broken wires near intake
• Corrosion in connector
• Damaged harness

⸻

🔹 P0717 – Transmission Input/Turbine Speed Sensor – No Signal

The TCM is not receiving signal from the input speed sensor.

Possible Causes:
• Faulty sensor
• Damaged transmission harness
• Harness touching hot exhaust tunnel
• Low/dirty ATF
• Weak power supply to TCM

⸻

3️⃣ Likely Root Cause (Most Important Part)

Because four unrelated sensors are failing at once, the real issue is almost certainly:

✔️ One faulty fuse feeding multiple sensors

or

✔️ A break in the wiring harness shared by those circuits

or

✔️ Bad engine ground or 5V reference feed from ECM

This is exactly the pattern we see when a section of loom is cut, soaked, melted, or tampered with.

⸻

🔧 Recommended Diagnostic Steps

1. Check all ECM/TCM-related fuses

There is usually a fuse that supplies power to these circuits together.

2. Inspect engine and transmission wiring loom

Especially areas around:
• Intake manifold
• Rear of engine
• Transmission tunnel
• O2 sensor path

3. Verify 5V reference and ground integrity

4. Check sensor connectors for corrosion or looseness

5. Only test or replace sensors after electrical supply is verified

This saves the owner from wasting money unnecessarily.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We’ve handled this exact type of case many times on Toyota, Honda, Nissan and Hyundai vehicles.

Every single time the customer came with 3–6 sensor codes:

The true cause was electrical — not multiple sensor failures.

Common real-life causes we’ve fixed:
• One ECM fuse blown
• Harness cut by heat or rats
• Corroded ground behind engine
• Melted O2 sensor loom touching exhaust
• Broken 5V reference feed from ECU

After repairing the electrical supply, all codes cleared and the vehicle ran perfectly immediately.

⸻

✅ Professional Summary

Your neighbour’s issue is electrical, not four bad sensors.

Before replacing anything, start with:
• ECM/TCM fuses
• Harness inspection
• 5V reference test
• Connector condition

Once the power supply is restored, these codes will disappear and the correct sensor (if any) can then be properly identified.

You can refer him to us for a proper full-system diagnostic.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📞 Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

Wayd:
My 2014 GLK 350 is having steering issues, I first noticed that when I drive faster the steering gets stiff while when it is in one place it is normal. Now that I parked it for while it has become very stiff whether moving or not. It is very very stiff. Also there are no errors in the dashboard.

Good morning sir,

Your complaint is well noted.
Before we proceed, it’s important to point out that the Mercedes-Benz GLK350 came with two different steering systems depending on the production batch and market:

✔️ Some GLK models use Hydraulic Power Steering (HPS)

✔️ Some GLK models use Electric Power Steering (EPS)

Because of this, the exact diagnosis depends heavily on which steering system your GLK is equipped with.

Let’s break everything down properly 👇

⸻

🔧 Complaint Summary

GLK350
• Steering stiff at high speed
• Now very stiff whether moving or parked
• No warning lights
• Vehicle parked for some time before total stiffness appeared

⸻

🧠 Technical Breakdown

1️⃣ First — Does Your GLK Use Hydraulic or EPS?

🔹 How to know if it’s Hydraulic (HPS):
• There will be a power steering fluid reservoir under the hood
• You will see hoses running from pump to rack
• The steering pump runs off the serpentine belt
• When fluid is low, the steering becomes heavy
• No EPS warning appears on the dashboard

🔹 How to know if it’s EPS (Electric Power Steering):
• No fluid reservoir under the hood
• Steering is controlled by an electric motor on the rack
• CAN communication is involved
• Faults usually trigger a dashboard warning, unless the failure is mechanical (rare but possible)
• EPS noise can be heard as a soft motor whine when turning slowly

⸻

2️⃣ What Your Symptoms Suggest Based on Both Systems

Your progression (stiff at speed → stiff all the time → no dashboard warning) points more toward:

➡️ A hydraulic steering failure

than EPS.

Why?
• EPS failure almost always gives a dash warning
• EPS units fail suddenly, not gradually
• Hydraulic systems fail exactly the way you described (pressure loss over time)

Still, let’s break down BOTH possibilities.

⸻

3️⃣ If Your GLK Uses Hydraulic Power Steering (HPS)

Most Likely Causes:

🔹 1. Power Steering Pump Failure (Top Cause)

Symptoms:
• Stiff steering at high speed
• Later loses assist completely
• No dashboard error
• Gets worse after parking for long periods

🔹 2. Low Steering Fluid or Leak

If the fluid reservoir is low:
• Steering becomes heavy
• Air enters the system
• Rack pressure drops

🔹 3. Reservoir Filter Blocked (Very Common on Benz)

The GLK’s reservoir has an internal filter.
When clogged → heavy steering.

🔹 4. Faulty or Worn Steering Rack

The internal seals wear out → permanent stiffness.

🔹 5. Broken or Slipping Belt

If the belt isn’t driving the pump → no hydraulic assist.

This set of causes matches exactly the progression of your symptoms.

⸻

4️⃣ If Your GLK Uses EPS (Electric Power Steering)

EPS problems usually show “Power Steering Visit Workshop” on the dashboard…

…but in rare mechanical EPS rack failures, no code appears.

Possible EPS causes:

🔹 1. EPS Motor Failure (but usually shows error)

🔹 2. EPS Torque Sensor Fault (almost always shows error)

🔹 3. EPS Rack Mechanical Seizure (no error)

When the mechanical side of the EPS rack seizes, steering becomes very stiff, but no electronics fail so no warning appears.

🔹 4. Low Battery Voltage or Alternator Failure

EPS needs high amperage.
If voltage drops, the steering becomes stiff — but usually intermittent, not permanent.

EPS mechanical seizure is the only EPS failure that matches your description, but it’s far less common than hydraulic pump/rack issues.

⸻

🔧 Recommended Diagnostic Steps (For BOTH Systems)

Step 1 — Identify Steering System

Check under the hood:
• If you see power steering fluid reservoir → Hydraulic
• If not → EPS

Step 2 — Hydraulic System Checks

✔️ Check fluid level
✔️ Inspect pump pressure
✔️ Inspect reservoir filter
✔️ Inspect steering rack for internal leakage
✔️ Check drive belt condition

Step 3 — EPS System Checks

✔️ Scan with Autel for EPS module communication
✔️ Check live data for torque sensor
✔️ Inspect for mechanical rack seizure
✔️ Check battery & alternator voltage
✔️ Inspect EPS motor harness

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We’ve handled GLK350 steering failures multiple times — both Hydraulic and EPS variants.

In over 80% of the cases we’ve repaired:
➡️ The fault was with the hydraulic pump, reservoir filter, or rack seals — with ZERO dashboard warnings.

For EPS models:
➡️ The only cases without warnings involved mechanical rack seizure, usually after parking a vehicle for a long time — similar to your situation.

Once the faulty hydraulic component or EPS mechanical issue is addressed, the steering always returns to smooth factory operation.

⸻

✅ Professional Summary

Your GLK steering stiffness is coming from a loss of assist, either hydraulic or electric depending on your system.

However, based on your specific symptoms, the most likely cause is:

✔️ A failing hydraulic steering pump or a blocked reservoir filter

OR

✔️ A failing steering rack (mechanical seizure)

No dashboard error is normal for these faults.

A proper steering system inspection is required to confirm which system your GLK is using and pinpoint the exact pressure loss.

You can bring the vehicle to Ryan Automotive Limited for a full hydraulic/EPS steering diagnostic and corrective repair.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Mercedes-Benz Specialists • Engine & Transmission Experts • Steering & Suspension Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📞 Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

Wayd:
My 2014 GLK 350 is having steering issues, I first noticed that when I drive faster the steering gets stiff while when it is in one place it is normal. Now that I parked it for while it has become very stiff whether moving or not. It is very very stiff. Also there are no errors in the dashboard.

Your GLK should be using an electric power steering, this would need a physical inspection to actually point out the fault, if the vehicle is in Lagos you can reach out to me at 08028992075

Use your real moniker.don be ashamed.naija used cars ate trash. U go still broke

Wayd:
My 2014 GLK 350 is having steering issues, I first noticed that when I drive faster the steering gets stiff while when it is in one place it is normal. Now that I parked it for while it has become very stiff whether moving or not. It is very very stiff. Also there are no errors in the dashboard.

2cribz:
Stop using al and chat gpt.dullar d

No worries bro 👍 — we just try to simplify what’s going on mechanically so people can understand their vehicles better. Everyone’s free to share ideas. That’s how we all learn.

But 😂 No be everybody wey get data get sense sha. try Dey mind your business

2cribz:
Stop using al and chat gpt.dullar d

No worries bro 👍 — we just dey break am down make others fit understand their cars better. Everybody fit share idea.
But 😂 sometimes e good make person use their data for sense, not noise.

Good morning chief.

I have a ML350 2014 with the underlisted codes:

1. p002177
2. P045604
3. P042000
4. p044200

At the moment, the only issue is just the unhealthy loud noise when I start it in the morning.

Car moves fine and performs well.

Kindly recommend possible solution.

I stay around Ojodu Berger Lagos.

Please recommend good mechanic that is affordable and professional.

Babsfadeyi@gmail.com

Exhast leak
Exhaust mesh leak

Tuneday01:
Good morning chief.

I have a ML350 2014 with the underlisted codes:

1. p002177
2. P045604
3. P042000
4. p044200

At the moment, the only issue is just the unhealthy loud noise when I start it in the morning.

Car moves fine and performs well.

Kindly recommend possible solution.

I stay around Ojodu Berger Lagos.

Please recommend good mechanic that is affordable and professional.

Babsfadeyi@gmail.com

Please, my 2006 Honda Civic currently shows a long-term fuel trim of -21. After resolving codes (P2185, P2413) by replacing the coolant temperature sensor and the EGR valve which I initially thought were the cause, the fuel trim has not improved. Additional information: the MAF sensor is reading around 4.2 4.6 g/s at idle with the gear in ‘P.’
Can replacing the air-flow sensor make any difference? There’s no check-engine light.


Pls help. This is so frustrating

haykay2005:
Please, my 2006 Honda Civic currently shows a long-term fuel trim of -21. After resolving codes (P2185, P2413) by replacing the coolant temperature sensor and the EGR valve which I initially thought were the cause, the fuel trim has not improved. Additional information: the MAF sensor is reading around 4.2 4.6 g/s at idle with the gear in ‘P.’
Can replacing the air-flow sensor make any difference? There’s no check-engine light.


Pls help. This is so frustrating

Good afternoon boss,
Let’s break down your 2006 Honda Civic issue properly so you understand exactly what that –21% Long-Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is telling you even after fixing P2185 and P2413.

⸻

🔧 TECHNICAL BREAKDOWN (DIAGNOSTIC INSIGHT)

1️⃣ What –21% LTFT Really Means on Honda

A negative fuel trim (–21%) tells us the ECU is removing fuel because it believes the engine is running too rich.
Since you no longer have fault codes, the ECU thinks the sensors are “okay,” but one of them is sending a biased reading.

Common causes on this Civic model:
• Slight MAF under-reporting (common with old Honda MAFs)
• Leaking injectors
• High fuel pressure (regulator or return line issue)
• Vacuum leak AFTER MAF (rare but possible)
• Stuck open purge valve (EVAP) causing extra fuel vapour
• O2 sensor slow/bias rich even without CEL
• Coolant temp reading slightly cold → still enriching fuel mixture

⸻

2️⃣ Your MAF Readings (4.2–4.6 g/s at idle) – Are They Normal?

For the 1.8L R18A Honda engine:
• Normal warm-idle MAF: 2.8 – 3.5 g/s
• Your reading: 4.2 – 4.6 g/s → too high

This means the MAF is telling the ECU “more air is entering” → ECU adds more fuel → mixture becomes rich → ECU later removes fuel → –21 LTFT.

So yes, the MAF is very suspicious.

But… we don’t replace yet until we do the tests.

⸻

3️⃣ How to Confirm Whether the MAF Is the Cause

Here’s the proper Honda diagnostic procedure:

A. Unplug MAF test (quick)
• Start engine
• Unplug the MAF
• ECU enters default airflow mode
• Watch LTFT

➡️ If LTFT moves closer to –5% to 0% → MAF is DEFINITELY the cause.

B. Live Data Check

Check these together:
• MAF g/s at idle
• Short-Term Fuel Trim (STFT)
• O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) switching frequency
• Coolant temp after warm (should be 82–90°C)

➡️ If MAF stays high, while O2 sensor switches normally → MAF bias.

C. Fuel Pressure Test

High pressure = rich mixture = negative trims.

Especially common when:
• The fuel pressure regulator diaphragm leaks
• Return line partially blocked

D. Smoke Test (Quick vacuum/EVAP check)

A stuck purge valve = extra fuel vapour sucked into the intake = rich.

⸻

⚙️ RYAN AUTOMOTIVE WORKSHOP PROFESSIONAL TAKE

We’ve seen this exact Civic problem multiple times — negative trims around –18 to –25 with no CEL, especially after resolving unrelated codes.

In 70% of our cases:
• The MAF under-reports slightly → causing rich mixture
• Or the purge valve stays 10–15% open even with no code
• Or the injectors drip after shutdown causing rich LTFT

We’ve fixed several 2006–2011 Civics by:
• Confirming MAF readings with live scan and unplug test
• Checking EVAP command vs actual purge flow
• Measuring fuel pressure range (Honda spec: 50–57 psi)

Most resolved immediately after correcting the airflow or fuel pressure bias.

⸻

📌 PROFESSIONAL SUMMARY

Yes, replacing the MAF can solve it — but only after proper testing.
Your readings already show the MAF is higher than normal, so it’s a prime suspect, but you must still:
• Do the unplug test
• Verify O2 switching
• Confirm fuel pressure
• Check purge valve behaviour

Once the actual cause is confirmed, the LTFT will return to normal (–5% to +5%).

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📩 Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

haykay2005:
Please, my 2006 Honda Civic currently shows a long-term fuel trim of -21. After resolving codes (P2185, P2413) by replacing the coolant temperature sensor and the EGR valve which I initially thought were the cause, the fuel trim has not improved. Additional information: the MAF sensor is reading around 4.2 4.6 g/s at idle with the gear in ‘P.’
Can replacing the air-flow sensor make any difference? There’s no check-engine light.


Pls help. This is so frustrating

Do you have any drive ability issues?
What is the short term fuel trim value like ?
Have you tried checking if you don’t have any leaky fuel injector ?
Have you also checked for vacuum leak internally from?
The thing is long term fuel trim values would not automatically reflect changes in the system because it is a learned value the ECM would use to manage the vehicle operation, so if it sees changes from the short term it’ll then gradually effect that change on the Long term

Louiscars:
Do you have any drive ability issues?
What is the short term fuel trim value like ?
Have you tried checking if you don’t have any leaky fuel injector ?
Have you also checked for vacuum leak internally from?
The thing is long term fuel trim values would not automatically reflect changes in the system because it is a learned value the ECM would use to manage the vehicle operation, so if it sees changes from the short term it’ll then gradually effect that change on the Long term

The car runs smoothly, my short term fuel trim is around - 16, I don't think I have vacuum leak, checked everywhere . For the injector leak, I dojt know yet most of the mechanic around me here (abule Egba) are clueless. They don't know what to do. They can't even reverse the direct fan back to factory setting

haykay2005:
The car runs smoothly, my short term fuel trim is around - 16, I don't think I have vacuum leak, checked everywhere . For the injector leak, I dojt know yet most of the mechanic around me here (abule Egba) are clueless. They don't know what to do. They can't even reverse the direct fan back to factory setting

Sadly I’m not around agbulegba.
You can advise them to remove all 8 plugs, check if any you them are carbon fouled or wet with fuel as a way to confirm which cylinder is foul
- a Maf sensor can also cause this also
- say there’s no vacuum leak, I’d advise to inspect upstream 02 sensor, it might just be stuck Rich. A good way to check is to see that from your live data it actually oscillate

My car is a Toyota highlander, 2010. Its been misfiring with check engine light blinking. I have changed the 6 plugs and 6 nuzzles yet its still misfiring... what could be the cause??

kingreign:
This is a thread created for people to tell us their vehicle faults and we on our part can give solutions to their car faults. Where applicable, we may make references using pictures, videos and others to provide answers and solutions.

Please, state the name, model and year of your car, type of transmission and engine, and the location of the car to enable quicker response.

Happy motoring!

Brinxs:
My car is a Toyota highlander, 2010. Its been misfiring with check engine light blinking. I have changed the 6 plugs and 6 nuzzles yet its still misfiring... what could be the cause??

Thanks for reaching out regarding your 2010 Toyota Highlander. A blinking check engine light with persistent misfires, even after replacing all 6 spark plugs and 6 ignition coils, indicates that the issue is likely beyond basic ignition components and requires a full diagnostic inspection.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We’ve handled similar cases on 2010–2013 Highlanders, where misfires were caused by fuel injector faults, MAF sensor issues, cylinder compression problems, or wiring/sensor faults. Random part replacement often does not solve the root cause.

For accurate diagnosis and a guaranteed fix, we recommend bringing the vehicle to our workshop. Our team uses computerized scanning and systematic inspection to identify the exact cause and provide a cost-effective solution.

⸻

Professional Summary

Persistent misfires require precision diagnostics, not guesswork. Bringing your Highlander to a professional workshop ensures the problem is fixed once and for all, avoiding unnecessary parts replacement and repeated labor costs.

⸻

📍 Visit Ryan Automotive Limited today for inspection & repair
☎️ Call/WhatsApp: +234 911 306 9560
📧 Email: ryanautomotivelimited@gmail.com

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
Lagos, Nigeria

Brinxs:
My car is a Toyota highlander, 2010. Its been misfiring with check engine light blinking. I have changed the 6 plugs and 6 nuzzles yet its still misfiring... what could be the cause??

Have you scanned it and have it properly diagnosed?
If yes, what's the results?
If no, and you're in Abuja, feel free to contact me.

This require physical professional diagnosis.

kingreign:
Have you scanned it and have it properly diagnosed?
If yes, what's the results?
If no, and you're in Abuja, feel free to contact me.

This require physical professional diagnosis.

I'm not in Abuja, however the scan after the last work showed that cylinder 1 is misfiring...the electrician said the issue is from the top cylinder.