Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them - Car Talk (191) - Nairaland
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| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by RyanAutomotive: 6:13pm On Dec 14, 2025 |
Talismann:Good morning sir, Thank you for reaching out regarding your 2019 Lexus RX350 F-Sport. Based on your description, the persistent noise at the rear driver-side wheel after changing brake pads points to a linked brake system/installation issue, not random or isolated pad wear. ⸻ 🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight 1️⃣ Primary Cause — Rear Brake Noise / Pad-Rotor Interaction On RX350 F-Sport models, rear brake noise after pad replacement is often caused by pad-rotor or caliper issues. Common causes include: • Improper pad bedding or glazed pads • Sticking caliper pistons or slider pins • Warped, scored, or glazed brake rotors • Missing or misinstalled shims / anti-rattle clips ⸻ 2️⃣ Why Noise Persists Even With New Pads Even after pad replacement, noise can continue because: • Pads are not fully bedded into the rotor surface • Caliper pistons or sliders are not retracting properly • Hardware like shims or clips are missing or incorrectly installed • Rotor surface is uneven or glazed This is expected in such brake-related faults. ⸻ 3️⃣ Correct Repair Approach This should not be treated as guesswork. Proper steps are: 1. Remove rear wheel and inspect rotor, pad, and caliper condition. 2. Check caliper pistons and slider pins; lubricate or free any sticking parts. 3. Verify all hardware — shims, anti-rattle clips, and pad contact points — are installed correctly. 4. Resurface or replace rotor only if warped, glazed, or worn beyond specification. 5. Properly bed in the pads and test drive to confirm noise elimination. Random replacement of pads or rotors without inspection often leads to repeated noise and unnecessary cost. ⸻ ⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take We have resolved this exact scenario multiple times on RX350 F-Sport models: • ~40% of cases are pad bedding or pad/rotor mismatch • ~35% involve sticking calipers or slider pins • ~25% involve rotor surface issues or missing hardware Targeted inspection and repair consistently resolves the issue without wasting cost on unnecessary parts. ⸻ 🧩 Summary & Next Steps Your RX350 is producing noise due to a rear brake system/pad-rotor interaction fault. ✅ Correct action: Inspect first → Identify exact cause → Repair → Test drive For precise diagnosis and repair, we invite you to bring your RX350 to Ryan Automotive Limited. Our team will: • Inspect rear brake pads, rotors, calipers, and hardware • Provide a detailed fault report • Correctly bed in pads and lubricate hardware • Ensure the noise is fully eliminated ⸻ Ryan Automotive Limited Precision. Transparency. Excellence. Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division Lagos, Nigeria Contact via profile/signature Ryan Automotive Workshop Division |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Akinfrank: 8:22pm On Dec 14, 2025 |
Bosses in the house, I have recently noticed my car ac blowing ordinary air for a few seconds like 30 seconds or thereabout and then resumes cooling and then the cycle repeats. I thought maybe I'm low on gas as I haven't had reason to touch the AC since the car came in 2021, so I put on the ac with fan at max and checked the engine bay to see what's happening with the compressor, when i feel ordinary air in the car the compressor is not engaged, leave for a few minutes and the compressor engages sending very cool air. Sharply I enter my technician side e say maybe na serpentine belt, mind you nothing do my belt I sha gree change am, but still the issue persists, I sha leave the shop dey go house. My people what could be the reason for this, I should add that engine temperature doesn't affect this, it can happen on first start up in the morning, or randomly happen when driving on the highway at top speed and even when doing slow city driving, so this is not about engine rpm, or overheating or slow fan speed. I was telling the technician maybe I'm low on freon, but he told me I'll not get any cooling at all if i am low on gas, quick Google search told me the compressor could be shutting itself off due to low refrigerant, so i don't really know, no be Google go repair am na, the two things wey google really suggest na low refrigerant or bad pressure switch, experts kindly use yoir wealth of knowledge to help biko 🙏🏾, the car is 09 hyundai sonata v6, i have not had AC issues since car was gotten in 2021, and car is not overheating. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by RyanAutomotive: 5:05am On Dec 15, 2025 |
Akinfrank:Good morning sir, Thank you for the detailed explanation — your observation that the compressor cuts off for ~30 seconds and then re-engages is very important. Based on everything you described, this is not a belt issue, not engine temperature related, and not random behavior. It’s a controlled A/C system shutdown. ⸻ 🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight 1️⃣ Primary Cause — Low / Unstable Refrigerant Pressure Your technician’s statement that “if gas is low, it won’t cool at all” is incorrect for modern A/C systems. On your 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6, when refrigerant level drops slightly (not totally empty): • Cooling will still occur • But pressure becomes unstable • The low-pressure switch temporarily cuts off the compressor to protect it • Once pressure balances again → compressor re-engages → cold air returns This creates the exact ON–OFF cooling cycle you’re experiencing. ⸻ 2️⃣ Secondary Cause — Faulty A/C Pressure Switch or Sensor If refrigerant level is confirmed okay, the next suspect is: • Weak or failing A/C pressure switch • Or inaccurate pressure sensor signal This causes the system to wrongly think pressure is unsafe, even when it isn’t — leading to random disengagement. ⸻ 3️⃣ Less Likely (But Possible) Causes • Compressor clutch coil beginning to weaken • Excessive clutch air-gap • Dirty condenser causing pressure spikes (usually worse in traffic, not random) ⸻ ⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take We’ve fixed this exact complaint multiple times on: • Hyundai Sonata V6 • Toyota Camry / ES series • Accord & Azera models In over 70% of cases, the root cause was: Slight refrigerant loss + system protection logic NOT total gas failure, and NOT belts. Replacing belts or “guesswork repairs” will never solve this issue. ⸻ ✅ Correct Fix Approach 1. Recover and weigh refrigerant properly (not top-up guessing) 2. Pressure test for micro leaks 3. Scan A/C live data (pressure cut-off behavior) 4. Replace pressure switch only if confirmed faulty 5. Recharge to factory specification ⸻ 🔎 Professional Summary Your A/C system is doing exactly what it was designed to do — protect the compressor. The fault lies in pressure control, not engine speed, temperature, or belt drive. Proper diagnosis will restore stable, continuous cooling. ⸻ Ryan Automotive Limited Precision. Transparency. Excellence. Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division 📍 Lagos, Nigeria 📞 Contact via profile/signature Ryan Automotive Workshop Division |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Akinfrank: 6:44am On Dec 15, 2025 |
RyanAutomotive:Thank you for the detailed information, the issue now is I am in Akure and it seems I need a very good AC technician that has tools, tools to evacuate the refrigerant and measure to see if it weighs up to spec ( to see if i have lost some refrigerant over the years). if the refrigerant loss has been ruled out then to proceed to checking the pressure switches, oomo I dey suspect the refrigerant sha but I no just won go blindly top up, how to find a reputable shop that's equipped is the problem now. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Talismann: 3:46pm On Dec 16, 2025 |
RyanAutomotive:thank you Sir, it's fixed now |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by RyanAutomotive: 4:26pm On Dec 16, 2025 |
Talismann:Your Welcome. 🤗 It’s Ryan Automotive Limited Pleasure To Serve Everyone |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by For44: 8:30pm On Dec 16, 2025 |
My gear was converted from 13 pins to 10 pins. Few months ago it started making a noise each time I move the gear selector from pack to drive. What could be the problem? And possible solution |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by RyanAutomotive: 1:35am On Dec 17, 2025 |
For44:Good evening sir, Thank you for your description. A gear selector making noise after a 13-pin to 10-pin transmission conversion is a classic example of why full transmission swaps with mismatched pin setups are risky. Such conversions are not plug-and-play — using a 10-pin transmission in place of a 13-pin unit (or vice versa) introduces: • ECU communication mismatch with the transmission • Incorrect solenoid control, causing harsh, delayed, or clunky shifts • Early wear of selector bushings, detents, and cables • Increased mechanical stress inside the transmission • Higher risk of transmission going into fail-safe (limp) mode In Lagos, many mechanics perform these conversions thinking it’s an easy fix, but what actually happens is: • Cars start showing abnormal noises on gear selection • Shift engagement feels rough or delayed • Transmission lifespan reduces due to misaligned electronics and mechanical stress ⸻ 🔧 Technical Insight 1️⃣ Primary Causes of Gear Selector Noise After Transmission Conversion • ECU / pin mismatch: Wrong transmission signals make solenoids actuate improperly, producing clunks or metallic noises. • Linkage / lever stress: Gear lever and cables are now operating outside their designed geometry, causing stiffness or clicks. • Selector bushings / detents wear: Abnormal stress from mismatched transmission leads to accelerated wear. • Transmission fluid issues: Old or wrong ATF exacerbates noise, especially when solenoids fire incorrectly. 2️⃣ Symptoms to Expect • Clicking, clunking, or metallic noise every time lever moves • Delayed engagement into Drive/Reverse or harsh shifts • Occasional transmission warning lights or limp mode • Lever feels loose, stiff, or uneven 3️⃣ Correct Diagnostic & Repair Steps 1. Full scan of ECU and transmission module — identify miscommunication or solenoid errors. 2. Inspect lever bushings, detents, and cables — replace if worn or stressed. 3. Check transmission fluid type, level, and condition — replace if wrong or contaminated. 4. Confirm proper wiring and ECU compatibility — 13-pin transmission needs 13-pin ECU match; reverse conversion if necessary. 5. Test drive and monitor lever movement, noise, and shift quality — do not replace parts randomly. ⸻ ⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take We’ve handled this exact scenario multiple times in Lagos. Many mechanics: • Perform full transmission pin conversions without correcting ECU or wiring • Ignore the mechanical and electrical consequences, causing repeat visits • Replace internal transmission components unnecessarily without proper diagnosis From our experience: • 70% of post-conversion gear noise is caused by ECU/transmission mismatch • 20–30% is due to lever linkage, bushings, or detent stress • Fluid and solenoid issues make up the rest Scan-first, inspect-second is the Ryan Automotive approach — it avoids wasted money and further damage. ⸻ 🧩 Professional Summary & Next Steps Short-term: ✅ Avoid forcing the lever — doing so worsens internal stress. ✅ Record a video showing the noise and lever movement for documentation. If it persists: ➡️ Bring the car for full diagnostic at Ryan Automotive Limited. We will: • Scan ECU and transmission module • Inspect linkage, bushings, and solenoids • Confirm correct transmission-ECU compatibility • Provide a precise repair or recommendation, including possible reversal of the conversion Next time you post on Nairaland, include: brand, full model name (e.g., Toyota Camry / Lexus ES350), year, engine size/code, mileage, and recent maintenance history. That allows accurate, professional guidance. ⸻ Ryan Automotive Limited Precision. Transparency. Excellence. Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division Lagos, Nigeria Contact via profile/signature Ryan Automotive Workshop Division |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by cyif2003(m): 10:20am On Dec 17, 2025 |
Good morn. I noticed my gear oil was leaking at d point where d engine meets d gearbox... I drive a Toyota camry 2010 v4 venza engine. 22pin. I took it to d gear guy and he said he will need to drop d gear. Which he did d next day. He later said he needs to change d oil seal and d oil pump. He said everytin wud cost 100k . I negotiated to 90k. U no when it comes to things like this it's better dat d technician buys his parts by himself ... After d job d oil stopped leaking. Only me for me to notice after 2 months dat it's leaking again. Went back to him and he said he will need to open it up again . Saying dat it's not his fault dat na d part wey him buy. I am very furious kus is I know he didn't buy any pump. He has parts from condem gears in his shop. Pls any advice shud I go back to him or use anoda person. Can't be throwing money away. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by RyanAutomotive: 11:39am On Dec 17, 2025 |
cyif2003:Good morning sir. Thank you for the detailed explanation — this is a very common Camry/U660-series transmission scenario, and your frustration is 100% valid. Below is a professional Ryan Automotive Limited diagnostic response. ⚙️ Transmission Oil Leak After Repair — Toyota Camry 2010 (V4, Venza Engine, 22-Pin) 🔍 Technical Breakdown (What’s Really Going On) 1️⃣ Leak point: Engine–Gearbox Junction When transmission oil leaks from where the engine meets the gearbox, it is almost always one of these: • Torque converter oil seal (front seal) • Transmission oil pump O-ring / gasket • Cracked or worn oil pump housing ➡️ Not external seals. Gear MUST be dropped to fix this properly. 2️⃣ Oil Pump Replacement — The Red Flag If an oil pump was truly replaced: • The gearbox would have been fully opened • New pump must come with fresh seals and clearances • Used/condem pump = high failure risk A pump that fails again in 2 months strongly suggests: • Old/used pump installed • Only the front seal was changed, not the pump • Improper seating of torque converter during reinstallation 3️⃣ “It’s Not My Fault, Na Part” — Not Acceptable Once a technician: • Supplies the parts • Chooses the parts • Installs the parts 👉 He owns the responsibility. Industry standard is simple: Parts failure shortly after repair = workmanship or part-quality issue. ⸻ ⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take We’ve handled this exact case multiple times on: • Toyota Camry 2007–2011 (U660) • Venza engine swaps • 22-pin and 13-pin variants In most repeat-leak cases we later inspected: • No new oil pump was installed • Used seals were reused • Torque converter was forced in, damaging the new seal A properly done oil pump + front seal job should last YEARS, not months. ⸻ ✅ What You Should Do Now (Very Important) ❌ Do NOT: • Pay him again blindly • Allow another “open-and-close” without proof • Accept verbal assurance ✅ Best Professional Options: Option 1 (If you return to him): • Demand to see a brand-new oil pump before opening • Agree clearly: No payment for labor — only parts if needed • Mark the parts or record video evidence Option 2 (Recommended): • Take the car to a different transmission specialist • Ask specifically for: • Front oil seal replacement • Oil pump inspection (visual confirmation) • Torque converter seating check Yes, the gear may need to come down again — but better once and done correctly than repeated wastage. ⸻ 🧠 Professional Summary This failure is not normal, not bad luck, and not something you should keep paying for repeatedly. A correct repair would not leak again in 2 months. Your instinct is right — you are not wrong to be upset. Precision diagnosis and verified parts matter more than shortcuts. ⸻ Ryan Automotive Limited Precision. Transparency. Excellence. Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division 📍 Lagos, Nigeria 📞 Contact via profile/signature Ryan Automotive Workshop Division |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by cyif2003(m): 12:26pm On Dec 17, 2025 |
Thanks a lot. Pls when u say used oil pump are u saying I have to buy a brand new oil pump. As on tear rubber? Need to clear on this |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by For44: 2:08pm On Dec 17, 2025 |
Thank you sir for the insight, unfortunately I stay in Owerri. I would have loved to come to your workshop.[ quote author=RyanAutomotive post=137820198] Good evening sir, Thank you for your description. A gear selector making noise after a 13-pin to 10-pin transmission conversion is a classic example of why full transmission swaps with mismatched pin setups are risky. Such conversions are not plug-and-play — using a 10-pin transmission in place of a 13-pin unit (or vice versa) introduces: • ECU communication mismatch with the transmission • Incorrect solenoid control, causing harsh, delayed, or clunky shifts • Early wear of selector bushings, detents, and cables • Increased mechanical stress inside the transmission • Higher risk of transmission going into fail-safe (limp) mode In Lagos, many mechanics perform these conversions thinking it’s an easy fix, but what actually happens is: • Cars start showing abnormal noises on gear selection • Shift engagement feels rough or delayed • Transmission lifespan reduces due to misaligned electronics and mechanical stress ⸻ 🔧 Technical Insight 1️⃣ Primary Causes of Gear Selector Noise After Transmission Conversion • ECU / pin mismatch: Wrong transmission signals make solenoids actuate improperly, producing clunks or metallic noises. • Linkage / lever stress: Gear lever and cables are now operating outside their designed geometry, causing stiffness or clicks. • Selector bushings / detents wear: Abnormal stress from mismatched transmission leads to accelerated wear. • Transmission fluid issues: Old or wrong ATF exacerbates noise, especially when solenoids fire incorrectly. 2️⃣ Symptoms to Expect • Clicking, clunking, or metallic noise every time lever moves • Delayed engagement into Drive/Reverse or harsh shifts • Occasional transmission warning lights or limp mode • Lever feels loose, stiff, or uneven 3️⃣ Correct Diagnostic & Repair Steps 1. Full scan of ECU and transmission module — identify miscommunication or solenoid errors. 2. Inspect lever bushings, detents, and cables — replace if worn or stressed. 3. Check transmission fluid type, level, and condition — replace if wrong or contaminated. 4. Confirm proper wiring and ECU compatibility — 13-pin transmission needs 13-pin ECU match; reverse conversion if necessary. 5. Test drive and monitor lever movement, noise, and shift quality — do not replace parts randomly. ⸻ ⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take We’ve handled this exact scenario multiple times in Lagos. Many mechanics: • Perform full transmission pin conversions without correcting ECU or wiring • Ignore the mechanical and electrical consequences, causing repeat visits • Replace internal transmission components unnecessarily without proper diagnosis From our experience: • 70% of post-conversion gear noise is caused by ECU/transmission mismatch • 20–30% is due to lever linkage, bushings, or detent stress • Fluid and solenoid issues make up the rest Scan-first, inspect-second is the Ryan Automotive approach — it avoids wasted money and further damage. ⸻ 🧩 Professional Summary & Next Steps Short-term: ✅ Avoid forcing the lever — doing so worsens internal stress. ✅ Record a video showing the noise and lever movement for documentation. If it persists: ➡️ Bring the car for full diagnostic at Ryan Automotive Limited. We will: • Scan ECU and transmission module • Inspect linkage, bushings, and solenoids • Confirm correct transmission-ECU compatibility • Provide a precise repair or recommendation, including possible reversal of the conversion Next time you post on Nairaland, include: brand, full model name (e.g., Toyota Camry / Lexus ES350), year, engine size/code, mileage, and recent maintenance history. That allows accurate, professional guidance. ⸻ Ryan Automotive Limited Precision. Transparency. Excellence. Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division Lagos, Nigeria Contact via profile/signature Ryan Automotive Workshop Division[/quote] |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Dabadwela: 10:22am On Dec 18, 2025 |
RyanAutomotive: ![]() |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Ojemedad: 12:07pm On Dec 19, 2025 |
Is it only my that don't like this AI answers? |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by kingreign(op): 10:11pm On Dec 19, 2025*. Modified: 8:17am On Dec 20, 2025 |
Ojemedad:It's same reason I stopped responding and giving my input here even though its my thread. He has hijacked the whole thing and continues to give Ai answers albeit most are incorrect. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Ojemedad: 7:58am On Dec 20, 2025 |
kingreign:AI answers does not equate to real life issues. He should stop this AI n0nsense |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by cyif2003(m): 10:48am On Dec 20, 2025 |
Pls assist with my own enquiry kingreign: |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by kingreign(op): 11:11am On Dec 20, 2025 |
cyif2003:Take your car to somewhere else. Your car doesn't need a pump replacement. It needs oil seal replacement. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Deigofortune: 12:59pm On Dec 20, 2025*. Modified: 4:10pm On Dec 20, 2025 |
Hello Guy's... Good afternoon and compliment of de season PLS🙏 who can help me with the right solution of dis code.. I just finished scanning my car (honda civic 06) and here's de result... Actually de car engine light do brinks at a point of driving.. 🤦♂️😒
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| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by RyanAutomotive: 1:56pm On Dec 20, 2025 |
Deigofortune:Good afternoon sir, Compliments of the season to you as well. 🎄 Thank you for sharing the scan result and the symptoms. From the diagnostic screenshots you posted, this is not a single fault issue — it’s a system-wide electrical / communication problem, which explains why the engine check light blinks while driving. Let me break it down clearly and professionally 👇 ⸻ 🔍 Professional Diagnostic Insight (Based on Your Scan Result) Your scan shows multiple modules reporting “High Voltage”, “Power Supply”, and “Communication (F-CAN)” faults, including: 1️⃣ Engine & Emissions • P2185 – ECT Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage • P1157 – A/F (Oxygen) Sensor S1 AFS Line Voltage High 👉 These two codes appearing together almost always point to: • Abnormal reference voltage • Shared sensor ground or power supply issue • Wiring / harness or charging system problem NOT bad sensors first. ⸻ 2️⃣ Transmission / ABS Communication • U0121 – F-CAN Malfunction (PCM ↔ ABS Control Unit) 👉 This means: • The engine ECU and ABS module are losing communication • Often caused by unstable system voltage, weak ground, or wiring interference • Can trigger limp mode and blinking engine light ⸻ 3️⃣ SRS (Airbag System) • A2-10 – Faulty Power Supply (VB Line) • 45-11 – No Signal from Left Side Impact Sensor • F4-11 – Passenger Airbag / Curtain / Seatbelt Tensioner Status ⚠️ Important: These are power supply–related SRS faults, not necessarily deployed airbags. When SRS reports VB Line (battery voltage) issues, it usually confirms a vehicle-wide electrical instability, not multiple failed airbags. ⸻ 🚨 Why Your Engine Light Is Blinking A blinking engine light means the ECU is detecting active abnormal conditions — in this case, voltage irregularities affecting: • Sensors • CAN communication • Safety modules This is why clearing codes without fixing the root cause will not solve it. ⸻ 🧠 Ryan Automotive Professional Diagnosis (What’s REALLY Going On) From experience, this pattern usually traces back to one or more of the following: Primary Likely Causes • Weak or failing battery • Alternator overcharging or unstable output • Poor engine/body ground points • Corroded or spliced wiring harness • Aftermarket electrical accessories affecting CAN lines ⚠️ Replacing sensors at this stage is guesswork and money waste. ⸻ 🔧 Correct Diagnostic & Repair Approach 1️⃣ Battery and alternator voltage test (static & under load) 2️⃣ Ground integrity inspection (engine, chassis, ECU grounds) 3️⃣ CAN line stability check 4️⃣ Wiring harness inspection around engine & firewall 5️⃣ Clear codes → road test → rescan to confirm what returns This is the only professional way to isolate the true fault. ⸻ ⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take When engine, transmission, ABS, and SRS all report power or communication issues at once, the car is telling you something very clear: “Fix my electrical foundation first.” Many technicians jump straight into: • Changing oxygen sensors • Replacing ECT sensors • Swapping ABS or SRS modules That approach creates more problems and more expense. At Ryan Automotive Limited, we run a scan-first, voltage-first, logic-based diagnostic process to protect the customer and the vehicle. ⸻ 🧩 Professional Summary & Next Steps Immediate Advice: ✅ Do not ignore the blinking engine light ✅ Avoid random part replacement ✅ Check battery & charging system urgently If the issue persists: ➡️ Bring the vehicle in for full electrical and module diagnostics. We handle clients from different locations — distance is never a barrier when the job must be done right. For better assistance on Nairaland next time, always include: • Vehicle brand & model • Year • Engine type • Any recent electrical or mechanical work ⸻ Ryan Automotive Limited Precision • Transparency • Correct Diagnosis Professional Auto Diagnostics | Engine • Transmission • Electrical Systems 📍 Lagos, Nigeria 📩 Contact via profile Ryan Automotive Workshop |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Macmilla(m): 8:52pm On Dec 20, 2025 |
cyif2003:I feel like slapping you. How did he go from oil leak to changing oil pump and you agreed? Na so you like to spend money? |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by ticker(m): 9:06pm On Dec 20, 2025 |
Good evening, I had a problem with my Honda Accord 2003 EOD, when I switched on my AC, the engine overheat, pls what can I do to remedy this? |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by obisite: 3:15am On Dec 21, 2025 |
Hello @ kingreign Please kindly advise, A corolla 05 doesn't hold when started, if it starts it goes off while trotting, .. The spark coil was changed.. Then it starts fine and holds . Here comes another issue 1. Doesn't accelerate well, which affects speeding up while accelerating.. It doesn't speed up.. 2. Also, gear oil leakage was noticed, it was checked, then oil seal was changed, but afterwards notice a jerk when gear is shift to reverse or drive.. Note : it has been scanned, scanner not reading anything, |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by cyif2003(m): 6:15am On Dec 21, 2025 |
kingreign:Thanks |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by cyif2003(m): 6:19am On Dec 21, 2025 |
I am not a technician and I no dey like get gear issues.... He said he had to open it first. After he did he called me and I went to meet him. He den said d oil pump and seal needs to b changed.... I asked what's wrong with d pump. He said plenty gibberish. To avoid long talk and issue of saying had I known later. I decided to do as he said . Besides na him buy all dat was used( I know say him no but anything kus gear people dey get parts for their shops from condemned gear) Macmilla: |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by kingreign(op): 1:12pm On Dec 21, 2025 |
obisite:Fix the scanner no communicating issue, my bet is on the throttle body. It may have failed. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Akinfrank: 9:46pm On Dec 21, 2025 |
Akinfrank:Abeg kingreign and others, kindly contribute to this. I want to add that my crankshaft pulley was wobbling a little and it was found that my water pump wasn't spinning freely when belt was removed, the mechanic i visited advised to replace the water pump as it could be harder on the engine through the crankshaft pulley, as the water pump will need lots of force to spin, he proceeded to say that i should replace the water pump first, said this is because the added force required to spin the water pump plus the load exerted by the ac compressor could be all too much thereby causing the compressor to cut off, shey this analysis make sense? |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by cupcup: 12:35am On Dec 25, 2025 |
Toyota Camry 2002 v6 1mz engine. Scan code. P1135 a/f sensor heat circuit bank1 sensor 1 kingreign:
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| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by Akinfrank: 5:11pm On Dec 25, 2025 |
Akinfrank:UPDATE: Water pump changed and the AC issue still remains, the compressor keeps engaging and disengaging at random, it mostly wouldn't work at all when the engine is idling, but if i dey fire am for road like this everywhere go cool within seconds and e go stay cool, if I apply brakes due to a speed bump And don't accelerate back quickly then the compressor disengages and i get ordinary warm air. people with ideas please come in, th water pump wey I change sef money no dey I just rugged am ni, I no fit drive without AC and I no won dey do irresponsible driving because i want make AC work. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by dapaiks: 1:57am On Dec 26, 2025 |
Hi guys, i consider upgrading my KIA rio 2014 follow come wheels to high size Alloy rims, plse what's the follow come rim size? And what size is considered ideal when upgrading rim size...? Thank you. |
| Re: Tell Us Your Car Faults. Let's Assess And Fix Them by 2cribz: 3:54pm On Dec 26, 2025 |
Go for 215/50/17 rims for rear. Best decision. Dont modify the front tyres and rims o. U know say yor car na fwd Make e no go tumble. dapaiks: |
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