₦airaland Forum

dapaiks:
Hi guys, i consider upgrading my KIA rio 2014 follow come wheels to high size Alloy rims, plse what's the follow come rim size?
And what size is considered ideal when upgrading rim size...? Thank you.

Check your tyre pressure information sticker by your door jamb, you'd see it.

I av bought up to 3 alternator for 2008 honda civic 1.8l, And still whenever the car is at low rev, it stop charging. Please help. I am in benin city

Please what is the common faults to look out for when buying a toks Honda accord 2014 Model?

ModJ1:
Please what is the common faults to look out for when buying a toks Honda accord 2014 Model?

Charging issue, oil leaks from the valve cover.

Hello everyone, please I need advice. I drive a Hyundai Elantra 2010 (automatic). When I bought the car, the gear oil was very low, so my mechanic topped it up with about 4 litres. The car drove fine initially, but it sometimes struggles to downshift when going uphill.

I don’t drive the car often. About 6 months later, the mechanic checked again and discovered the gear oil had reduced significantly, so we topped it up with about 2 litres. Unfortunately, within one week all the oil leaked out.

I then called another mechanic who changed the oil seal, drained the remaining oil, and refilled with 4 litres again. Now, just over one month later, the gear oil is low again, the ride is no longer smooth, and the issues persist:

Poor/downshift issues
Delayed gear engagement
When I change gears, it takes about 3 seconds before it reflects on the dashboard

I’ve also scanned the car before and got a transmission error code related to a solenoid.
I stay around the Ojodu Berger, Alagbole axis, and I’m honestly scared to drive the car so the gearbox doesn’t pack up completely.
Please, what I do next? I need a good gear specialist that can fix this issue

kingreign:
Charging issue, oil leaks from the valve cover.

Thank you Sir I really appreciate this

kingreign:
Fix the scanner no communicating issue, my bet is on the throttle body. It may have failed.

My car has this 'scanner no communicating' issue (so when I connect my OBD Reader I can't get any info from the vehicle), what could be the cause?

Akinfrank:
UPDATE: Water pump changed and the AC issue still remains, the compressor keeps engaging and disengaging at random, it mostly wouldn't work at all when the engine is idling, but if i dey fire am for road like this everywhere go cool within seconds and e go stay cool, if I apply brakes due to a speed bump And don't accelerate back quickly then the compressor disengages and i get ordinary warm air. people with ideas please come in, th water pump wey I change sef money no dey I just rugged am ni, I no fit drive without AC and I no won dey do irresponsible driving because i want make AC work.

So after taking it on a drive to Lagos on Christmas eve, my AC worked intermittently throughout the trip. With this AC issue I've been suffering a little longer crank than normal, but I've been ignoring it, and occasionally I just hear a click and the starter doesn't engage.
So today I try start am up and I hear the same click no crank, na so I vex knack the positive Terminal clip apako, next thing clip don break, I comot spare tight am up, naso long cranking disappear, and my AC return to normal Antarctica level 😭
The conclusion go be say ECU dey turn off the compressor when e detect voltage fluctuation from partial contact of the battery clips with the battery terminal, thanks everyone, everywhere good now.

My dear nairalanders, I need help with an issue that has plaqued my 2007 Honda crv for months. I am bringing it here so I can fix it without wasting money and without trial and error from my mechanics. The rpm goes up to 2 even when on idle and the car jerks when I try to shift gear when this rpm is up. It also jerks vigorously when I decelerate and apply brakes The fuse box under the steering was changed recently and the issue resolved but it is back. The check engine light is also on. It is a 2.4 litre engine and the scan shows the following codes- p1035, p1659, p2135, p1658, p2101, p2176, p2649. From my research online, it’s a problem with the throttle body actuator system. My biggest challenge now is that even if my finding is true, I need a wiring technician (rewire) that can help me check the system and fix it. Please I need help.

papiloski:
My dear nairalanders, I need help with an issue that has plaqued my 2007 Honda crv for months. I am bringing it here so I can fix it without wasting money and without trial and error from my mechanics. The rpm goes up to 2 even when on idle and the car jerks when I try to shift gear when this rpm is up. It also jerks vigorously when I decelerate and apply brakes The fuse box under the steering was changed recently and the issue resolved but it is back. The check engine light is also on. It is a 2.4 litre engine and the scan shows the following codes- p1035, p1659, p2135, p1658, p2101, p2176, p2649. From my research online, it’s a problem with the throttle body actuator system. My biggest challenge now is that even if my finding is true, I need a wiring technician (rewire) that can help me check the system and fix it. Please I need help.

Good morning sir,

Thank you for sharing the full details including the fault codes — that already helps eliminate a lot of guesswork. For a 2007 Honda CR-V 2.4L (K24 engine), the high idle up to 2000 RPM, hard jerking when shifting/decelerating, and the fact that the issue temporarily stopped after replacing the under-dash fuse/relay box tells us that this is not a simple throttle cleaning issue.

Your vehicle is clearly going into Throttle Control Emergency Mode (Limp Mode).

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

All the fault codes you listed relate to one major control system:

📌 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) + VTC/VCM Control Circuit Failure

Let’s decode the faults:

Code
Meaning (Simplified)
What it Indicates
P1035
Variable Valve Control issue
Low voltage / control circuit fault
P1658 & P1659
ETC relay circuit failure
Power supply not steady to throttle body
P2135
Throttle Position Sensor mismatch
Throttle readings disagree – Limp mode
P2101
Throttle actuator control range
Motor not receiving correct command
P2176
Idle position not learned
ECU can’t control idle properly
P2649
VTEC rocker arm oil control issue
Electrical/hydraulic signal failure

Every one of these points to unstable power and communication to the throttle actuator — not a bad throttle body itself.

⸻

2️⃣ Fuse Box Change Fixed It Briefly
This is a major clue.

The under-dash fuse/relay box houses the:
• ETC relay
• Sensor power feeds
• Ground distribution

If the internal circuit or terminals are weak → voltage drops → throttle & VTC system malfunction → high idle + jerking + limp mode return.

⸻

3️⃣ Jerking When Shifting & Braking
This happens because:
• Throttle stays partially open due to wrong signal
• ECU prevents proper torque cut-off
• Transmission receives wrong load data → harsh shift shock

So, transmission is not the problem — it’s reacting to faulty throttle control signals.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

This is not a parts-replacement problem.
You need precise wiring and relay circuit diagnostics:

✔️ ETC relay power supply circuit test
✔️ Ground resistance test across throttle circuit
✔️ Throttle body connector/terminal voltage test
✔️ Harness continuity from throttle → ECU → fuse box
✔️ ECU power & reference voltage stability when hot
✔️ Idle learn procedure only after electrical fix

Once voltage supply and signal lines are stable, all those codes clear permanently.

Driving like this can eventually cause:
• Transmission stress
• VTC solenoid wear
• High fuel consumption

So the right fix is important now.

⸻

📌 Very Important:
Do not let anyone start replacing throttle body, VTEC solenoid, or ECU without confirming power supply and wiring first — that will waste money.

⸻

📍 We also specialize in Honda electrical + throttle control systems, with proper scan tools and wiring diagram tracing.
Clients visit us from different locations across Lagos — distance is never a barrier to correct diagnostics.

If you want it handled once and for all with clear findings before repair, send us a DM and we’ll guide you professionally.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Honda Control System Specialists
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

RyanAutomotive:
Good morning sir,

Thank you for sharing the full details including the fault codes — that already helps eliminate a lot of guesswork. For a 2007 Honda CR-V 2.4L (K24 engine), the high idle up to 2000 RPM, hard jerking when shifting/decelerating, and the fact that the issue temporarily stopped after replacing the under-dash fuse/relay box tells us that this is not a simple throttle cleaning issue.

Your vehicle is clearly going into Throttle Control Emergency Mode (Limp Mode).

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

All the fault codes you listed relate to one major control system:

📌 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) + VTC/VCM Control Circuit Failure

Let’s decode the faults:

Code
Meaning (Simplified)
What it Indicates
P1035
Variable Valve Control issue
Low voltage / control circuit fault
P1658 & P1659
ETC relay circuit failure
Power supply not steady to throttle body
P2135
Throttle Position Sensor mismatch
Throttle readings disagree – Limp mode
P2101
Throttle actuator control range
Motor not receiving correct command
P2176
Idle position not learned
ECU can’t control idle properly
P2649
VTEC rocker arm oil control issue
Electrical/hydraulic signal failure

Every one of these points to unstable power and communication to the throttle actuator — not a bad throttle body itself.

⸻

2️⃣ Fuse Box Change Fixed It Briefly
This is a major clue.

The under-dash fuse/relay box houses the:
• ETC relay
• Sensor power feeds
• Ground distribution

If the internal circuit or terminals are weak → voltage drops → throttle & VTC system malfunction → high idle + jerking + limp mode return.

⸻

3️⃣ Jerking When Shifting & Braking
This happens because:
• Throttle stays partially open due to wrong signal
• ECU prevents proper torque cut-off
• Transmission receives wrong load data → harsh shift shock

So, transmission is not the problem — it’s reacting to faulty throttle control signals.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

This is not a parts-replacement problem.
You need precise wiring and relay circuit diagnostics:

✔️ ETC relay power supply circuit test
✔️ Ground resistance test across throttle circuit
✔️ Throttle body connector/terminal voltage test
✔️ Harness continuity from throttle → ECU → fuse box
✔️ ECU power & reference voltage stability when hot
✔️ Idle learn procedure only after electrical fix

Once voltage supply and signal lines are stable, all those codes clear permanently.

Driving like this can eventually cause:
• Transmission stress
• VTC solenoid wear
• High fuel consumption

So the right fix is important now.

⸻

📌 Very Important:
Do not let anyone start replacing throttle body, VTEC solenoid, or ECU without confirming power supply and wiring first — that will waste money.

⸻

📍 We also specialize in Honda electrical + throttle control systems, with proper scan tools and wiring diagram tracing.
Clients visit us from different locations across Lagos — distance is never a barrier to correct diagnostics.

If you want it handled once and for all with clear findings before repair, send us a DM and we’ll guide you professionally.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Honda Control System Specialists
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

I like how you dissect the issue and also provided solution. More grease to your elbow chief

Openair:
I like how you dissect the issue and also provided solution. More grease to your elbow chief

Thank you for the kind words, sir. We always aim to provide clear diagnostics and help car owners avoid trial-and-error repairs.
We appreciate the support. 🙌

Akinfrank:
So after taking it on a drive to Lagos on Christmas eve, my AC worked intermittently throughout the trip. With this AC issue I've been suffering a little longer crank than normal, but I've been ignoring it, and occasionally I just hear a click and the starter doesn't engage.
So today I try start am up and I hear the same click no crank, na so I vex knack the positive Terminal clip apako, next thing clip don break, I comot spare tight am up, naso long cranking disappear, and my AC return to normal Antarctica level 😭
The conclusion go be say ECU dey turn off the compressor when e detect voltage fluctuation from partial contact of the battery clips with the battery terminal, thanks everyone, everywhere good now.

Congratulations, this is one of the reasons I'm never quick to take my car to an electrician, many automotive electricians we have here even refuse to touch Hyundai cars, their reason being the cars do not forgive wrong electrical moves, and this is true.
A very rugged car if you have the V6, not long ago I started mine up and it started struggling to idle properly, I could see the rpm needle moving just a little up and down, exhaust sounded weird, what could this be? Sharply, I connected my small scanner, got MAF code, and ocv code, ocv? Surprised, well, I bought carb cleaner (2000 naira), took off the air intake hose, got to the throttle body (dirty) and had a friend step on the pedal inside the car so it opens up, I sprayed it really good.
Started up the car and checked the scanner, and all the codes disappeared, prior to my spraying the throttle body, I left the car to do a throttle relearn, this took 10mins of idling, and the rpm found its sweet spot (1000rpm after cold start) even as the exhaust sound wasn't 100, always start small with vehicle problems, especially when it is an older Hyundai you're sure has been well maintained.

Good day everyone,

Please I drive a 2008 Honda Accord. I had the engine washed yesterday, and this morning when I started the car, it came on for a few seconds, then began to jerk and eventually went off.
Anytime I try to start it again, the same thing happens it jerks and then shuts down.

Kindly advise me on what to do please. I’ll really appreciate any help 🙏

Pharrell18:
Good day everyone,

Please I drive a 2008 Honda Accord. I had the engine washed yesterday, and this morning when I started the car, it came on for a few seconds, then began to jerk and eventually went off.
Anytime I try to start it again, the same thing happens it jerks and then shuts down.

Kindly advise me on what to do please. I’ll really appreciate any help 🙏

Get the car scanned and drop codes

Pharrell18:
Good day everyone,

Please I drive a 2008 Honda Accord. I had the engine washed yesterday, and this morning when I started the car, it came on for a few seconds, then began to jerk and eventually went off.
Anytime I try to start it again, the same thing happens it jerks and then shuts down.

Kindly advise me on what to do please. I’ll really appreciate any help 🙏

Good evening sir,

Thank you for providing a clear description of your situation. Based on your explanation — a 2008 Honda Accord that starts briefly after an engine wash, then jerks and stalls, repeating the behavior on every start — this is not normal and is typically caused by electrical or sensor-related issues, especially following water exposure.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Moisture Affecting Engine Sensors & Electrical Connections (Most Likely Cause)
An engine wash can introduce water into critical components, especially on older vehicles. Sensors and connectors commonly affected include:
• Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor – water can disrupt airflow reading, causing misfires or stalling.
• Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) – if wet, it may send erratic signals to the ECU.
• Crankshaft / Camshaft Position Sensors – moisture can cause incorrect timing signals, leading to engine shutdown.
• Ignition Coils & Spark Plug Connections – water intrusion can short the coil circuits, causing immediate stalling after start.

⸻

2️⃣ Check Engine Electrical Grounds and ECU Connections
Water may have seeped into wiring harnesses or connectors, especially around the engine bay or near the fuse box. Poor grounding can:
• Trigger ECU to cut fuel temporarily for protection
• Cause the engine to crank but not stay running

⸻

3️⃣ Fuel Delivery Issues (Less Likely, but Worth Verifying)
While mostly electrical after an engine wash, confirm:
• Fuel pump is operating consistently
• Fuel filter is not partially blocked (less likely sudden onset, but check if symptoms persist)

⸻

4️⃣ Engine Immobilizer or Security System Trigger
Some Hondas have a security feature that can cut fuel or ignition if the system detects abnormal electrical signals — this can happen if water touches immobilizer components or wiring.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

A 2008 Accord should never stall repeatedly immediately after starting unless a critical sensor or connection is malfunctioning. Randomly attempting to start the engine without inspection may:
• Flood the engine
• Cause ECU misbehavior
• Damage ignition coils or catalytic converter

We always recommend a scan-first approach immediately after water exposure to identify active and pending fault codes before attempting further starts.

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Next Steps

Immediate actions for proper diagnosis:
• ✔️ Perform OBD2 scan for active error codes
• ✔️ Inspect all engine bay connectors and sensors for moisture, corrosion, or loose contacts
• ✔️ Dry or replace affected sensors/connectors if necessary
• ✔️ Check ignition coils and spark plug connections for water intrusion
• ✔️ Verify fuel delivery consistency
• ✔️ Test immobilizer and ECU signals for abnormal behavior

Do not continue repeated starting attempts, as this can worsen the issue.

📍 At Ryan Automotive Limited, we service clients from different locations — distance is never a barrier when it comes to getting expert diagnostics done correctly.

DM Ryan Automotive Limited today for a professional inspection and accurate resolution to prevent further damage.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Electrical Systems
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

RyanAutomotive:
Good evening sir,

Thank you for providing a clear description of your situation. Based on your explanation — a 2008 Honda Accord that starts briefly after an engine wash, then jerks and stalls, repeating the behavior on every start — this is not normal and is typically caused by electrical or sensor-related issues, especially following water exposure.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Moisture Affecting Engine Sensors & Electrical Connections (Most Likely Cause)
An engine wash can introduce water into critical components, especially on older vehicles. Sensors and connectors commonly affected include:
• Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor – water can disrupt airflow reading, causing misfires or stalling.
• Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) – if wet, it may send erratic signals to the ECU.
• Crankshaft / Camshaft Position Sensors – moisture can cause incorrect timing signals, leading to engine shutdown.
• Ignition Coils & Spark Plug Connections – water intrusion can short the coil circuits, causing immediate stalling after start.

⸻

2️⃣ Check Engine Electrical Grounds and ECU Connections
Water may have seeped into wiring harnesses or connectors, especially around the engine bay or near the fuse box. Poor grounding can:
• Trigger ECU to cut fuel temporarily for protection
• Cause the engine to crank but not stay running

⸻

3️⃣ Fuel Delivery Issues (Less Likely, but Worth Verifying)
While mostly electrical after an engine wash, confirm:
• Fuel pump is operating consistently
• Fuel filter is not partially blocked (less likely sudden onset, but check if symptoms persist)

⸻

4️⃣ Engine Immobilizer or Security System Trigger
Some Hondas have a security feature that can cut fuel or ignition if the system detects abnormal electrical signals — this can happen if water touches immobilizer components or wiring.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

A 2008 Accord should never stall repeatedly immediately after starting unless a critical sensor or connection is malfunctioning. Randomly attempting to start the engine without inspection may:
• Flood the engine
• Cause ECU misbehavior
• Damage ignition coils or catalytic converter

We always recommend a scan-first approach immediately after water exposure to identify active and pending fault codes before attempting further starts.

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Next Steps

Immediate actions for proper diagnosis:
• ✔️ Perform OBD2 scan for active error codes
• ✔️ Inspect all engine bay connectors and sensors for moisture, corrosion, or loose contacts
• ✔️ Dry or replace affected sensors/connectors if necessary
• ✔️ Check ignition coils and spark plug connections for water intrusion
• ✔️ Verify fuel delivery consistency
• ✔️ Test immobilizer and ECU signals for abnormal behavior

Do not continue repeated starting attempts, as this can worsen the issue.

📍 At Ryan Automotive Limited, we service clients from different locations — distance is never a barrier when it comes to getting expert diagnostics done correctly.

DM Ryan Automotive Limited today for a professional inspection and accurate resolution to prevent further damage.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Electrical Systems
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

Na wa for you

You nor even ask person to scan car before you write this plenty epistle from ChatGPT

Wetin dey do you sef?

My car ac blower trips off everytime I enter gallops or any rough road, and after some minutes it come up again , at any slight rough road the AC blower trips off and when it does the compressor also stops and picks when it start blowing again. Is the AC blower faulty?

shagamite:
My car ac blower trips off everytime I enter gallops or any rough road, and after some minutes it come up again , at any slight rough road the AC blower trips off and when it does the compressor also stops and picks when it start blowing again. Is the AC blower faulty?

Check the Resistor and also connection of the AC blower motor. You may also wish to check the fuse.
By the way, is the car a 1943 Leyland lorry?

Good day good men. I recently did a massive overhaul on my wheel for 2008 Acura TSX.
Things like
- Power Steering Pump
- Shocks
- Ball Joints
- Hub
- Brake Disks
- Brake pads
- Complete Tyroid module
- Stabilizer Linkage
- Upper and Lower Arm
- Bushings
- The ride was also lifted

Now the issue I'm facing is the following.

- Front now has positive camber
- Feeling the rough terrain from the brake pedal
- Brake doesnt feel as sharp
- A scratchy sound from either the front or rear wheel while on high speed (driver side)
- Steering twiches even while idle
- excessive vibration while in drive and ac is on in traffic

I know this is long story but kindly indulge me and assist

Leonyluiz:
Good day good men. I recently did a massive overhaul on my wheel for 2008 Acura TSX.
Things like
- Power Steering Pump
- Shocks
- Ball Joints
- Hub
- Brake Disks
- Brake pads
- Complete Tyroid module
- Stabilizer Linkage
- Upper and Lower Arm
- Bushings
- The ride was also lifted

Now the issue I'm facing is the following.

- Front now has positive camber
- Feeling the rough terrain from the brake pedal
- Brake doesnt feel as sharp
- A scratchy sound from either the front or rear wheel while on high speed (driver side)
- Steering twiches even while idle
- excessive vibration while in drive and ac is on in traffic

I know this is long story but kindly indulge me and assist

Good morning sir,

Thank you for taking the time to explain the situation clearly. From your description — a 2008 Acura TSX with extensive front suspension, steering, and brake overhaul, plus a ride height lift, followed by multiple drivability and braking complaints — this is a system-level setup and calibration issue, not a single bad part.

What you’re experiencing is common after major suspension work when geometry, preload, and balance are not correctly reset.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Positive Camber After Suspension Work (Core Issue)
Positive camber on the front wheels after replacing arms, bushings, tie rods, hubs, and lifting the vehicle indicates:
• Incorrect arm geometry for the new ride height
• Bushings tightened while suspension was hanging (not at ride height)
• Alignment not done or done improperly

Positive camber will cause:
• Reduced braking efficiency
• Poor tire contact with the road
• Steering instability and twitching

⸻

2️⃣ Brake Pedal Feedback & Reduced Sharpness
Feeling rough terrain through the brake pedal and weak braking bite usually points to:
• Brake discs not seated properly on the hub
• Hub runout or dirt/rust between hub and disc
• Caliper slider pins binding or incorrectly torqued
• Wheel bearing/hub tolerance issue

This is not normal after a brake job.

⸻

3️⃣ Scratchy Noise at High Speed (Driver Side)
A scratchy or scraping sound at speed can come from:
• Dust shield rubbing the brake disc
• Wheel bearing preload issue
• CV axle alignment stress after lift
• Brake pad contact due to caliper misalignment

This must be inspected immediately to avoid further damage.

⸻

4️⃣ Steering Twitching Even at Idle
This strongly suggests:
• Steering rack preload or tie rod geometry issue
• Incorrect toe setting
• Power steering line pressure imbalance after pump replacement

Steering should remain stable at idle — twitching is a clear fault sign.

⸻

5️⃣ Excessive Vibration in Drive with A/C On (Traffic)
This points to a combination of:
• Engine mounts stressed due to altered suspension geometry
• Increased engine load from A/C exposing existing imbalance
• Subframe or suspension components not torqued to spec

After major suspension work, vibrations often surface because tolerances change.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

When you replace this many components at once, the vehicle must be recalibrated as a system. Simply installing new parts without:
• Ride-height-based torque setting
• Correct alignment angles
• Brake runout checks
will create exactly the symptoms you’re experiencing.

This is not a parts quality problem — it’s a setup and execution problem.

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Correct Next Steps

To resolve this properly, the car needs:
• ✔️ Full suspension re-inspection
• ✔️ Re-torquing of all arms & bushings at correct ride height
• ✔️ Precision wheel alignment (camber, caster, toe)
• ✔️ Brake disc runout & hub inspection
• ✔️ Steering system pressure and geometry check
• ✔️ Engine mount and subframe inspection

Do not continue driving aggressively until this is corrected — uneven braking, steering instability, and vibrations can escalate quickly.

📍 Clients come to us from different locations — distance is never a barrier when it comes to getting the job done right.

If you want this resolved correctly and permanently, DM Ryan Automotive Limited for professional inspection and proper recalibration.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Suspension • Steering & Brake Systems
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

RyanAutomotive:
Good morning sir,

Thank you for taking the time to explain the situation clearly. From your description — a 2008 Acura TSX with extensive front suspension, steering, and brake overhaul, plus a ride height lift, followed by multiple drivability and braking complaints — this is a system-level setup and calibration issue, not a single bad part.

What you’re experiencing is common after major suspension work when geometry, preload, and balance are not correctly reset.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Positive Camber After Suspension Work (Core Issue)
Positive camber on the front wheels after replacing arms, bushings, tie rods, hubs, and lifting the vehicle indicates:
• Incorrect arm geometry for the new ride height
• Bushings tightened while suspension was hanging (not at ride height)
• Alignment not done or done improperly

Positive camber will cause:
• Reduced braking efficiency
• Poor tire contact with the road
• Steering instability and twitching

⸻

2️⃣ Brake Pedal Feedback & Reduced Sharpness
Feeling rough terrain through the brake pedal and weak braking bite usually points to:
• Brake discs not seated properly on the hub
• Hub runout or dirt/rust between hub and disc
• Caliper slider pins binding or incorrectly torqued
• Wheel bearing/hub tolerance issue

This is not normal after a brake job.

⸻

3️⃣ Scratchy Noise at High Speed (Driver Side)
A scratchy or scraping sound at speed can come from:
• Dust shield rubbing the brake disc
• Wheel bearing preload issue
• CV axle alignment stress after lift
• Brake pad contact due to caliper misalignment

This must be inspected immediately to avoid further damage.

⸻

4️⃣ Steering Twitching Even at Idle
This strongly suggests:
• Steering rack preload or tie rod geometry issue
• Incorrect toe setting
• Power steering line pressure imbalance after pump replacement

Steering should remain stable at idle — twitching is a clear fault sign.

⸻

5️⃣ Excessive Vibration in Drive with A/C On (Traffic)
This points to a combination of:
• Engine mounts stressed due to altered suspension geometry
• Increased engine load from A/C exposing existing imbalance
• Subframe or suspension components not torqued to spec

After major suspension work, vibrations often surface because tolerances change.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

When you replace this many components at once, the vehicle must be recalibrated as a system. Simply installing new parts without:
• Ride-height-based torque setting
• Correct alignment angles
• Brake runout checks
will create exactly the symptoms you’re experiencing.

This is not a parts quality problem — it’s a setup and execution problem.

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Correct Next Steps

To resolve this properly, the car needs:
• ✔️ Full suspension re-inspection
• ✔️ Re-torquing of all arms & bushings at correct ride height
• ✔️ Precision wheel alignment (camber, caster, toe)
• ✔️ Brake disc runout & hub inspection
• ✔️ Steering system pressure and geometry check
• ✔️ Engine mount and subframe inspection

Do not continue driving aggressively until this is corrected — uneven braking, steering instability, and vibrations can escalate quickly.

📍 Clients come to us from different locations — distance is never a barrier when it comes to getting the job done right.

If you want this resolved correctly and permanently, DM Ryan Automotive Limited for professional inspection and proper recalibration.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Suspension • Steering & Brake Systems
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

This is very detailed sir. Where is your spot in Lagos please?

Leonyluiz:
This is very detailed sir. Where is your spot in Lagos please?

Lasu Isheri Road

RyanAutomotive:
Lasu Isheri Road

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Leonyluiz:
Do you mind dropping your contact as well.

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HELLO GUYS PLEASE I NEED HELP.

I RECENTLY BOUGHT A CAR AFTER SOME DAYS I DISCOVERED THAT WHENEVER I ON HEADLIGHTS THE CAR WILL OFF. I THINK ITS PROBABLY WEAK BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING.

NOW IF ITS WEAK BATTERY, WHAT ;
* PRODUCT/MODEL CAN YOU RECOMMEND FROM EXPERIENCE?
* ANY IDEA OF THE COST?

GiftAbia1:
HELLO GUYS PLEASE I NEED HELP.

I RECENTLY BOUGHT A CAR AFTER SOME DAYS I DISCOVERED THAT WHENEVER I ON HEADLIGHTS THE CAR WILL OFF. I THINK ITS PROBABLY WEAK BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING.

NOW IF ITS WEAK BATTERY, WHAT ;
* PRODUCT/MODEL CAN YOU RECOMMEND FROM EXPERIENCE?
* ANY IDEA OF THE COST?

What vehicle is this, some vehicles might require a battery with more amperage/hour rating, again you need to check your charging system also

Good day everyone,

Please I drive a Hyundai Xcent 2015 (manual) and recently the steering has been very hard to turn and the power steering warning light on the dashboard remains on and doesn't go off.
What could be the possible cause of this?

EaseMyHill:
Good day everyone,

Please I drive a Hyundai Xcent 2015 (manual) and recently the steering has been very hard to turn and the power steering warning light on the dashboard remains on and doesn't go off.
What could be the possible cause of this?

Good morning sir,


Hyundai Xcent — 2015 (Manual)

Based on your description:

• Steering suddenly very hard
• Power steering warning light stays ON

This points directly to a power steering system failure, not a suspension or alignment issue.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight — Hyundai Xcent (2015)

The 2015 Hyundai Xcent uses an Electric Power Steering (EPS) system, not hydraulic. This means there is no power steering fluid involved.

When the EPS warning light stays ON and the steering becomes heavy, the system has detected a fault and has shut down assistance for safety reasons.

⸻

⚠️ Most Likely Causes (From Experience)

1️⃣ EPS Motor or EPS Module Fault
• Common on Hyundai small sedans
• Internal motor wear or control module failure
• Once faulty, the system disables steering assist

⸻

2️⃣ Low System Voltage / Battery or Charging Issue
• Weak battery or failing alternator
• EPS requires stable voltage to function
• Voltage drop triggers EPS warning light

(Many EPS faults are voltage-related, not steering-related.)

⸻

3️⃣ Steering Torque Sensor Failure
• Sensor inside the steering column
• Sends incorrect steering input data
• EPS shuts down due to inconsistent readings

⸻

4️⃣ Wiring / Connector Issues
• Loose or corroded EPS connectors
• Water ingress under dashboard or steering column
• Damaged wiring causing communication loss

⸻

🚫 What It Is NOT
• Not wheel alignment
• Not suspension bushings
• Not rack-and-pinion lubrication
• Not steering fluid (there is none)

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop — Professional Take

Driving with hard steering increases:
• Driver fatigue
• Steering control risk in traffic
• Emergency maneuver difficulty

This is not safe to ignore, especially on Lagos roads.

EPS systems must be diagnosed with a proper scan tool — guessing or part swapping will lead to unnecessary expenses.

⸻

📌 What We Recommend (Next Steps)

Bring the vehicle in for:
✔️ Full EPS system scan (Hyundai-compatible)
✔️ Battery & charging system test
✔️ Steering torque sensor calibration check
✔️ EPS wiring and connector inspection

Once scanned, the exact fault code will tell us whether it’s:
• EPS motor
• Torque sensor
• Voltage-related issue
• Or wiring fault

⸻

📍 Distance is never a barrier — clients come to Ryan Automotive Limited from different locations for accurate diagnostics and peace of mind.

If you want a correct diagnosis and a lasting fix (not trial-and-error repairs), feel free to reach out.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision • Transparency • Excellence
Premium Auto Diagnostics • Steering • Electrical Systems
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

We’re always here to help keep your Hyundai safe, light, and responsive on the road 🚗⚡

It's Honda Accord 05 4plug Engine

Louiscars:
What vehicle is this, some vehicles might require a battery with more amperage/hour rating, again you need to check your charging system also

I hard same fault recently. Mine was because my steering oil was dried up. I only added steering oil and my steering became very free.

EaseMyHill:
Good day everyone,

Please I drive a Hyundai Xcent 2015 (manual) and recently the steering has been very hard to turn and the power steering warning light on the dashboard remains on and doesn't go off.
What could be the possible cause of this?