₦airaland Forum

Bro dont get fooled. There is no original ws,what obis normally do is to pour either dextron 2 or 3 inside ws container new container,ud thinknj bought original but na fake oil u buy,na why e dey delay. It will get worse off. U dont need to go to meko again. Go under the radiator,locate the gear cooler hose going into the radiator and back,disconnect the pin and look for a 4 liter empty keg,direct the hose to the keg,start the car,leave the gear on park,come out of the car,as soon as the gear oil has drained to like 2 litres. Stop engine,allow the oil to coo down,couple back the cooler hose. Leave the car parked for days and go and buy 2 litres can toyota gear oil dont buy the plastic one or the 4 litres,buy the can 1 liter. Then top up. After that check ,dont over fill and underfill,let it reach the hot mark kn the dipsstick. If not ,if u allow any meko touch am again,kiss the gear goodbye

vinzita1:
Original ws
With
New filter

2cribz:
Bro dont get fooled. There is no original ws,what obis normally do is to pour either dextron 2 or 3 inside ws container new container,ud thinknj bought original but na fake oil u buy,na why e dey delay. It will get worse off. U dont need to go to meko again. Go under the radiator,locate the gear cooler hose going into the radiator and back,disconnect the pin and look for a 4 liter empty keg,direct the hose to the keg,start the car,leave the gear on park,come out of the car,as soon as the gear oil has drained to like 2 litres. Stop engine,allow the oil to coo down,couple back the cooler hose. Leave the car parked for days and go and buy 2 litres can toyota gear oil dont buy the plastic one or the 4 litres,buy the can 1 liter. Then top up. After that check ,dont over fill and underfill,let it reach the hot mark kn the dipsstick. If not ,if u allow any meko touch am again,kiss the gear goodbye

Pls, don't come to my thread and spew ignorance or falsehood.

flootintin:
It is hard getting a good technician around my axis. I stay at Ijaiye, Lagos.

You can reach me on Whatsapp my workshop is around Abule egba not far from ijaiye tho

kingreign:
Pls, don't come to my thread and spew ignorance or falsehood.

Good day, Oga Kingreign. Pls what are thoughts about the Opel Zafira (Auto tranny) for school runs and occasional long trips? It's popular here in the north and transporters use them alongside Galaxy (Ford) and Sharan (VW) for long haul journeys so I'm sure the engine is tolerant. But what I noticed is that most of the Zafira used by transporters comes with manual tranny so it leaves me wondering if the auto tranny is free from issues. Kindly help if you have any knowledge of it or suggest an affordable auto-drive minivan (2005-2010) outside the more expensive sienna and odyssey. I plan to go for Toks. Thanks boss.

Dat2jo:
Good day, Oga Kingreign. Pls what are thoughts about the Opel Zafira (Auto tranny) for school runs and occasional long trips? It's popular here in the north and transporters use them alongside Galaxy (Ford) and Sharan (VW) for long haul journeys so I'm sure the engine is tolerant. But what I noticed is that most of the Zafira used by transporters comes with manual tranny so it leaves me wondering if the auto tranny is free from issues. Kindly help if you have any knowledge of it or suggest an affordable auto-drive minivan (2005-2010) outside the more expensive sienna and odyssey. I plan to go for Toks. Thanks boss.

My neighbour used the Zafira MK1 back then, his was auto transmission and he was always traveling from Abuja to Kano. The only time I know the car had a fault was when he lost the key. It was hell for him because he had to go call some key programmers from Jos to come programme another key, change BCM, immobilizer and some other stuffs.

That said, it's a car I can recommend as long as it was well maintained.

kingreign:
My neighbour used the Zafira MK1 back then, his was auto transmission and he was always traveling from Abuja to Kano. The only time I know the car had a fault was when he lost the key. It was hell for him because he had to go call some key programmers from Jos to come programme another key, change BCM, immobilizer and some other stuffs.

That said, it's a car I can recommend as long as it was well maintained.

Thank u so much

Good day house. Please I need the input of Honda gurus and experts in the house before mechanics start using my car for trial and error.

The Car:

2011 Honda Civic Sedan (1.8L R18 Engine, Auto)

True mileage is over 230k miles (US auction car, had a front-end collision before it was imported late last year).

The Main Problem:
The car runs fine in the morning and at night with or without AC. But during the hot afternoon after continuous driving like 30 minutes or high revs with AC on, the temperature gauge starts rising dangerously high. If I turn off the AC, the temp drops back to normal.

What Has Already Been Done (The Diagnostics):

Cooling System Alterations: Mechanics have already removed the thermostat and wired the cooling fans directly. I have also had the radiator flushed. It is still overheating despite all of this.

Pressure Test: We did a cooling system pressure test, and it passed. Mechanics are now blindly suspecting a weak water pump or a warped head gasket, but there is absolutely zero evidence to back that up (no milky oil, no bubbling coolant).

Next i want to inspect the condenser for bent fins or blockage, but who knows who can patiently diagnose the entire cooling system to find the exact fault in lagos, not trial and error. These mechanics lack patience, they just guess the problem and ask you to buy a new part that wont solve the problem.

macuwon:
Good day house. Please I need the input of Honda gurus and experts in the house before mechanics start using my car for trial and error.

The Car:

2011 Honda Civic Sedan (1.8L R18 Engine, Auto)

True mileage is over 230k miles (US auction car, had a front-end collision before it was imported late last year).

The Main Problem:
The car runs fine in the morning and at night with or without AC. But during the hot afternoon after continuous driving like 30 minutes or high revs with AC on, the temperature gauge starts rising dangerously high. If I turn off the AC, the temp drops back to normal.

What Has Already Been Done (The Diagnostics):

Cooling System Alterations: Mechanics have already removed the thermostat and wired the cooling fans directly. I have also had the radiator flushed. It is still overheating despite all of this.

Pressure Test: We did a cooling system pressure test, and it passed. Mechanics are now blindly suspecting a weak water pump or a warped head gasket, but there is absolutely zero evidence to back that up (no milky oil, no bubbling coolant).

Next i want to inspect the condenser for bent fins or blockage, but who knows who can patiently diagnose the entire cooling system to find the exact fault in lagos, not trial and error. These mechanics lack patience, they just guess the problem and ask you to buy a new part that wont solve the problem.

The funny thing is that your issue could actually stem from a faulty radiator cover that just cost only 2k sef.

But make dem dey diagnose dey go sha eventually they will hit "Eureka"

nurey:
The funny thing is that your issue could actually stem from a faulty radiator cover that just cost only 2k sef.

But make dem dey diagnose dey go sha eventually they will hit "Eureka"

Funny enough I've tried replacing it several times but bought wrong ones that don't fit, plus everybody that checked the current radiator cover says there's nothing wrong with it, but I'll change it regardless

Good evening gurus and experience drivers nd mechanics in the house, I think my Camry 2013 is having a gear issue.. bought the car from a lady about 3 weeks ago, a scam was done which was fine apart from missing catalyst and engine is very sound and untouched . everything seems fine apart from the fact that it was badly maintained.. did some body works( full oven baked) changed headlamp etc . A week later, I noticed a slight kick while driving.. like when I hold break and try to accelerate again, I notice a slight kick so I took it to the mechanic and he said seems the gear oil needed to be topped.

Went to another mechanic the next day for the oil topping and he drained the old oil claiming the oil was bad and smells burnt so changed it, but made a grave mistake due to ignorance by putting in ibeto oil. The following day the issue got worse and this time my engine was lifting up when I engage reverse or drive. Made research that night and realised the wrong oil was used instead of Toyota WS. Went back to the mechanic very mad at him and he claimed Toyota doesn’t select oil lol… had to call another mechanic that confirmed ibeto oil was the wrong oil since it’s too thick.

The next day I was directed to a gear technician that said the car needs a reset or calibration . He did it successfully by tapping two wires around the battery area and also drained the complete ibeto oil and put in 8 litters Ws oil.. the car worked perfectly after that but I noticed oil was leaking from the bottom plate two days later and I went back and they fixed it and car was working well again.

Now after driving the car for 3 days, the engine lifting up or shaking when I engage reverse or drive has started again. U can physically see the engine shaking heavily like the engine seating is not holding it up well when I open the bonnet. Also, when I went out today, it did some delayed reversing. I hope this is not a serious issues..

The car is even for sale as I’m starting out in car sales.

8 Liters is too much for the car, kindly confirm if the transmission fluid is much in the system

Jerrfrac:
Good evening gurus and experience drivers nd mechanics in the house, I think my Camry 2013 is having a gear issue.. bought the car from a lady about 3 weeks ago, a scam was done which was fine apart from missing catalyst and engine is very sound and untouched . everything seems fine apart from the fact that it was badly maintained.. did some body works( full oven baked) changed headlamp etc . A week later, I noticed a slight kick while driving.. like when I hold break and try to accelerate again, I notice a slight kick so I took it to the mechanic and he said seems the gear oil needed to be topped.

Went to another mechanic the next day for the oil topping and he drained the old oil claiming the oil was bad and smells burnt so changed it, but made a grave mistake due to ignorance by putting in ibeto oil. The following day the issue got worse and this time my engine was lifting up when I engage reverse or drive. Made research that night and realised the wrong oil was used instead of Toyota WS. Went back to the mechanic very mad at him and he claimed Toyota doesn’t select oil lol… had to call another mechanic that confirmed ibeto oil was the wrong oil since it’s too thick.

The next day I was directed to a gear technician that said the car needs a reset or calibration . He did it successfully by tapping two wires around the battery area and also drained the complete ibeto oil and put in 8 litters Ws oil.. the car worked perfectly after that but I noticed oil was leaking from the bottom plate two days later and I went back and they fixed it and car was working well again.

Now after driving the car for 3 days, the engine lifting up or shaking when I engage reverse or drive has started again. U can physically see the engine shaking heavily like the engine seating is not holding it up well when I open the bonnet. Also, when I went out today, it did some delayed reversing. I hope this is not a serious issues..

The car is even for sale as I’m starting out in car sales.

minista94:
8 Liters is too much for the car, kindly confirm if the transmission fluid is much in the system

The whole oil was drained completely and also from the converter and from the research I made I read it can take up to 8-10 liters, if everything was drained.. the guy that fixed it seem like someone that is good. Several people where calling him for gear issues while I was there

To all gurus in the house, what is the effect of reintroducing thermostat which had run for years without it? Car is honda accord 2009 and pick it up last month. Had overheating issues 2 weeks ago, mechanic said radiator was blocked and did a flush. While bleeding the system after re-installation of radiator, discovered that the car had no thermostat. Before then, I know that the temperature guage raises and stays in the middle but now, after the flush, it takes a while for the guage to rise. I don't know how long ago the thermostat was removed and I want to be careful so as not the cause further issues on the engine.

Jerrfrac:
Good evening gurus and experience drivers nd mechanics in the house, I think my Camry 2013 is having a gear issue.. bought the car from a lady about 3 weeks ago, a scam was done which was fine apart from missing catalyst and engine is very sound and untouched . everything seems fine apart from the fact that it was badly maintained.. did some body works( full oven baked) changed headlamp etc . A week later, I noticed a slight kick while driving.. like when I hold break and try to accelerate again, I notice a slight kick so I took it to the mechanic and he said seems the gear oil needed to be topped.

Went to another mechanic the next day for the oil topping and he drained the old oil claiming the oil was bad and smells burnt so changed it, but made a grave mistake due to ignorance by putting in ibeto oil. The following day the issue got worse and this time my engine was lifting up when I engage reverse or drive. Made research that night and realised the wrong oil was used instead of Toyota WS. Went back to the mechanic very mad at him and he claimed Toyota doesn’t select oil lol… had to call another mechanic that confirmed ibeto oil was the wrong oil since it’s too thick.

The next day I was directed to a gear technician that said the car needs a reset or calibration . He did it successfully by tapping two wires around the battery area and also drained the complete ibeto oil and put in 8 litters Ws oil.. the car worked perfectly after that but I noticed oil was leaking from the bottom plate two days later and I went back and they fixed it and car was working well again.

Now after driving the car for 3 days, the engine lifting up or shaking when I engage reverse or drive has started again. U can physically see the engine shaking heavily like the engine seating is not holding it up well when I open the bonnet. Also, when I went out today, it did some delayed reversing. I hope this is not a serious issues..

The car is even for sale as I’m starting out in car sales.

Good evening sir.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. From everything you’ve described about your 2013 Toyota Camry, this is not a small issue — and it is not something that should be ignored, especially if you plan to resell the vehicle.

Let’s break this down professionally.

⸻

🔎 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Initial “Kick” When Moving From Brake to Acceleration

That symptom already suggested:
• Transmission fluid degradation
• Internal wear beginning
• Or mounting problem

Burnt-smelling oil confirms the transmission has experienced heat stress.

⸻

2️⃣ Wrong Fluid (Ibeto Oil) Issue

Your Camry 2013 uses Toyota WS (World Standard) fluid.

That transmission is fluid-sensitive.

Using thicker or non-spec oil can:
• Affect hydraulic pressure
• Disturb shift timing
• Cause delayed engagement
• Stress internal clutches

Even though it was drained quickly, damage can still occur depending on how long it was driven.

⸻

3️⃣ “Wire Tapping Reset” Around Battery

That method is a crude manual reset.

Proper recalibration should be done with a diagnostic scanner, not just wire tapping.

It may temporarily clear adaptive memory, but it does NOT fix mechanical or hydraulic faults.

⸻

4️⃣ Engine Lifting / Shaking When Engaging D or R

This is very important.

If the engine visibly lifts when you engage gear, the most common causes are:
• Weak or broken engine mounts
• Weak transmission mount
• Excess drivetrain vibration from transmission shock

The mount issue is very likely here.

However…

Delayed reverse + heavy vibration together could also mean:
• Internal clutch pack wear
• Valve body pressure issue
• Torque converter stress

⸻

⚠️ The Delayed Reverse Is the Red Flag

Delayed engagement into reverse usually indicates:
• Low pressure build-up
• Internal seal wear
• Or early transmission failure

This is not something a reset can permanently solve.

⸻

📌 What Should Be Done Now

Before panic:
1. Proper undercar inspection of:
• Engine mounts
• Transmission mount
2. Scan with professional diagnostic tool to check:
• Shift adaptation values
• Solenoid response
• Transmission temperature history
3. Confirm no leak remains and fluid level is perfectly set at operating temperature.

⸻

🎯 Honest Professional Take

From experience with 2012–2014 Camry transmissions in Nigeria:

If it was badly maintained and fluid was already burnt before you bought it, the transmission may have been stressed long before the Ibeto oil incident.

The wrong oil only exposed what was already weak.

This does NOT automatically mean full gearbox replacement.

It could still be:
• Mount issue + minor internal wear

But the delayed reverse should be taken seriously.

⸻

🏢 Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

Do not sell the vehicle without properly diagnosing it.

If the next buyer discovers delayed reverse or vibration, it affects your credibility especially since you’re entering car sales.

Let a professional transmission technician:
• Inspect mounts
• Perform live diagnostic scan
• Confirm pressure behavior

That is the correct approach — not trial and error oil changes.

⸻

If you are within Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited handles proper diagnostic scanning and structured transmission assessment.

Even if you’re coming from outside Lagos, we attend to vehicles from different areas — proper diagnosis saves you from guessing and unnecessary expense.

Let’s fix it correctly before making any decision.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Professional Diagnostics | Transmission Assessment | Honest Solutions 🚗🔧

macuwon:
Good day house. Please I need the input of Honda gurus and experts in the house before mechanics start using my car for trial and error.

The Car:

2011 Honda Civic Sedan (1.8L R18 Engine, Auto)

True mileage is over 230k miles (US auction car, had a front-end collision before it was imported late last year).

The Main Problem:
The car runs fine in the morning and at night with or without AC. But during the hot afternoon after continuous driving like 30 minutes or high revs with AC on, the temperature gauge starts rising dangerously high. If I turn off the AC, the temp drops back to normal.

What Has Already Been Done (The Diagnostics):

Cooling System Alterations: Mechanics have already removed the thermostat and wired the cooling fans directly. I have also had the radiator flushed. It is still overheating despite all of this.

Pressure Test: We did a cooling system pressure test, and it passed. Mechanics are now blindly suspecting a weak water pump or a warped head gasket, but there is absolutely zero evidence to back that up (no milky oil, no bubbling coolant).

Next i want to inspect the condenser for bent fins or blockage, but who knows who can patiently diagnose the entire cooling system to find the exact fault in lagos, not trial and error. These mechanics lack patience, they just guess the problem and ask you to buy a new part that wont solve the problem.

Good day sir.

Thank you for the detailed breakdown. From your explanation, this is not a guessing situation — it needs structured diagnosis.

Vehicle: 2011 Honda Civic (R18, Automatic)
Mileage: 230k+ miles
Imported accident vehicle (front-end impact)

Let’s analyse this properly.

⸻

🔎 Key Observation
• Runs normal in morning & night
• Overheats in hot afternoon
• Happens after 30 minutes or high revs with AC ON
• Temperature drops when AC is turned OFF

That detail is extremely important.

⸻

🎯 What This Tells Us

If turning OFF the AC immediately drops temperature, the issue is very likely airflow restriction or heat exchange inefficiency, not necessarily head gasket or water pump.

Because:

When AC is ON:
• Condenser produces extra heat
• Radiator must dissipate both engine heat + AC heat
• If airflow is weak → temp rises

When AC is OFF:
• Heat load reduces
• Cooling system can cope again

⸻

⚠️ First Mistake Already Done

Removing thermostat is not a professional solution.

Honda R18 engines are designed to run with a thermostat to regulate coolant flow. Removing it can actually:
• Reduce coolant dwell time in radiator
• Cause unstable temperature behaviour

It should be restored.

⸻

🚨 Most Likely Causes (Based On Your Symptoms)

1️⃣ Condenser / Radiator Airflow Restriction (Very Common After Front Collision)

Since it had a front-end accident:

Check:
• Condenser bent fins
• Radiator partially blocked
• Dirt or debris between condenser & radiator
• Improper radiator replacement (low quality aftermarket)

This is VERY common in US accident imports.

⸻

2️⃣ Weak Radiator (Internal Flow Restriction)

Radiator may look fine externally but internally clogged.

Flush does not always fix internal restriction.

⸻

3️⃣ Cooling Fan Performance Under Load

Even if fans are wired direct, question is:
• Are they spinning at correct RPM?
• Are both fans working properly?
• Is the fan shroud intact?

Weak airflow at idle with AC ON = overheating.

⸻

4️⃣ Wrong Radiator Cap

Low pressure cap can cause overheating under load.

Small part, big effect.

⸻

5️⃣ Head Gasket? (Less Likely From Your Description)

You mentioned:
• No milky oil
• No bubbling coolant
• Pressure test passed

That does not strongly support head gasket failure.

Mechanics jumping to head gasket without evidence is guessing.

⸻

❌ Water Pump?

If water pump was weak, it would overheat consistently, not only with AC load and hot afternoon.

Not impossible — but not first suspect.

⸻

🧠 Proper Diagnostic Approach (No Trial & Error)
1. Restore thermostat (correct Honda spec)
2. Inspect condenser fins thoroughly
3. Remove radiator & check internal flow
4. Check cooling fan airflow volume
5. Confirm correct radiator cap pressure rating
6. Check AC condenser spacing & airflow gap

This must be done patiently, not by replacing parts blindly.

⸻

🎯 Based On Experience With R18 Civic In Lagos

Most cases like this end up being:
• Blocked condenser
• Weak aftermarket radiator
• Poor airflow after accident repair

Very rarely head gasket if no supporting symptoms.

⸻

🏢 Professional Recommendation

This is not a “change part and pray” case.

It requires:
• Full cooling system inspection
• Proper airflow analysis
• Structured elimination process

If you’re within Lagos and want proper diagnostic procedure without guesswork, that is exactly how we approach it at Ryan Automotive Limited.

We don’t replace parts blindly — we test and confirm before recommending anything.

Better to fix it once than keep funding trial and error.

—
Ryan Automotive Limited
Structured Diagnostics | Cooling System Specialists | No Guesswork 🚗🔧

RyanAutomotive:
Good evening sir.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. From everything you’ve described about your 2013 Toyota Camry, this is not a small issue — and it is not something that should be ignored, especially if you plan to resell the vehicle.

Let’s break this down professionally.

⸻

🔎 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Initial “Kick” When Moving From Brake to Acceleration

That symptom already suggested:
• Transmission fluid degradation
• Internal wear beginning
• Or mounting problem

Burnt-smelling oil confirms the transmission has experienced heat stress.

⸻

2️⃣ Wrong Fluid (Ibeto Oil) Issue

Your Camry 2013 uses Toyota WS (World Standard) fluid.

That transmission is fluid-sensitive.

Using thicker or non-spec oil can:
• Affect hydraulic pressure
• Disturb shift timing
• Cause delayed engagement
• Stress internal clutches

Even though it was drained quickly, damage can still occur depending on how long it was driven.

⸻

3️⃣ “Wire Tapping Reset” Around Battery

That method is a crude manual reset.

Proper recalibration should be done with a diagnostic scanner, not just wire tapping.

It may temporarily clear adaptive memory, but it does NOT fix mechanical or hydraulic faults.

⸻

4️⃣ Engine Lifting / Shaking When Engaging D or R

This is very important.

If the engine visibly lifts when you engage gear, the most common causes are:
• Weak or broken engine mounts
• Weak transmission mount
• Excess drivetrain vibration from transmission shock

The mount issue is very likely here.

However…

Delayed reverse + heavy vibration together could also mean:
• Internal clutch pack wear
• Valve body pressure issue
• Torque converter stress

⸻

⚠️ The Delayed Reverse Is the Red Flag

Delayed engagement into reverse usually indicates:
• Low pressure build-up
• Internal seal wear
• Or early transmission failure

This is not something a reset can permanently solve.

⸻

📌 What Should Be Done Now

Before panic:
1. Proper undercar inspection of:
• Engine mounts
• Transmission mount
2. Scan with professional diagnostic tool to check:
• Shift adaptation values
• Solenoid response
• Transmission temperature history
3. Confirm no leak remains and fluid level is perfectly set at operating temperature.

⸻

🎯 Honest Professional Take

From experience with 2012–2014 Camry transmissions in Nigeria:

If it was badly maintained and fluid was already burnt before you bought it, the transmission may have been stressed long before the Ibeto oil incident.

The wrong oil only exposed what was already weak.

This does NOT automatically mean full gearbox replacement.

It could still be:
• Mount issue + minor internal wear

But the delayed reverse should be taken seriously.

⸻

🏢 Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

Do not sell the vehicle without properly diagnosing it.

If the next buyer discovers delayed reverse or vibration, it affects your credibility especially since you’re entering car sales.

Let a professional transmission technician:
• Inspect mounts
• Perform live diagnostic scan
• Confirm pressure behavior

That is the correct approach — not trial and error oil changes.

⸻

If you are within Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited handles proper diagnostic scanning and structured transmission assessment.

Even if you’re coming from outside Lagos, we attend to vehicles from different areas — proper diagnosis saves you from guessing and unnecessary expense.

Let’s fix it correctly before making any decision.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Professional Diagnostics | Transmission Assessment | Honest Solutions 🚗🔧

Thank you for your time and detailed explanation but unfortunately, I’m in port harcourt. I don’t know if you guys have a branch here.

Meanwhile, I did a scan today and these are the codes shown
p0741– torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off

P2757– torque converter clutch pressure control solenoid control circuit performance or stuck off.

Both showing pending

vinzita1:
Good day fellow
Am having this issue
Four days ago, I noticed slight delay, then everything looks normal from my matrix 2009 model car,
Three days ago, after approaching mecanic, I was informed that my car is due for services (gear).
Two days ago, I did service by changing oil and the filter.
Thereafter, it gets worse by delaying up to 5 to 10 secs while reving , then move sluggishly.
Today, I scan it
It shows P2716

Pls advice accordingly.
Pls

Good day sir.

Vehicle: Toyota Matrix 2009 (Automatic)
Scan Code: P2716

Let’s address this properly before anybody opens the gearbox unnecessarily.

⸻

🔎 What P2716 Means

P2716 = Pressure Control Solenoid “D” Electrical

In simple terms:

Your transmission computer is detecting a problem with one of the hydraulic pressure control solenoids inside the gearbox.

That solenoid controls how hydraulic pressure is applied during gear engagement.

When it fails or malfunctions, you will experience exactly what you described:
• Delayed movement (5–10 seconds before engaging)
• Sluggish take-off
• Late or harsh shifting

So your symptoms match the code.

⸻

⚠️ Important Observation

You said:

Delay started slightly before service
After oil & filter change, it became worse

This is common.

Why?

If the solenoid was already weak, fresh fluid with stronger cleaning properties can:
• Dislodge debris
• Affect pressure balance
• Expose internal weakness

The service did not cause it — it revealed it.

⸻

🎯 What Should Be Checked Now

Before replacing gearbox or panicking:

1️⃣ Check transmission fluid level properly (at correct temperature)
2️⃣ Inspect wiring harness & connector to transmission
3️⃣ Confirm correct transmission oil was used (Toyota ATF type)
4️⃣ Perform live data scan to monitor solenoid command & response

If wiring is fine, then most likely:
• Faulty pressure control solenoid
• Or valve body issue

⸻

🚨 Do NOT Do This
• Do not rush into full gearbox replacement
• Do not keep driving it aggressively
• Do not let anyone start guessing internal rebuild immediately

P2716 is often solved by:
• Replacing the specific solenoid
• Or repairing the valve body assembly

Only in severe neglected cases does it escalate to internal damage.

⸻

🧠 Professional Insight

Since the delay is now up to 5–10 seconds, pressure is not building fast enough.

That is a hydraulic control issue — not engine problem.

The earlier you fix it, the cheaper it will be.

If you continue driving it like that, clutch packs can burn due to low pressure engagement.

⸻

🏢 Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

Next step is not “change another oil.”

Next step is structured transmission diagnosis:
• Electrical check
• Valve body inspection
• Solenoid testing

Once confirmed, the fix can be targeted instead of trial and error.

If you are within Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, proper transmission diagnostics can be carried out to confirm whether it is just the solenoid or deeper internal wear.

Fix it early and you’ll save yourself a major rebuild cost.

—
Ryan Automotive Limited
Transmission Diagnostics | Fault Code Analysis | Professional Repair Approach 🚗🔧

Feistyoly:
Please what do the following codes point to?
C1555
C0700
P060A
C1501
C0300
P2185

2008 Honda civic

Good day sir.

Vehicle: 2008 Honda Civic (Automatic)
You scanned and got multiple codes. Let’s break them down properly instead of guessing.

⸻

🔎 Breakdown of the Codes

🔧 P060A

Internal Control Module Performance.

This points to:
• PCM (Engine computer) internal fault
• Voltage instability
• Weak battery or charging problem
• Ground issue

This code is serious and must not be ignored.

⸻

🔧 P2185

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor 2 Circuit High.

This means:
• Faulty coolant temperature sensor
• Wiring problem to the sensor
• Poor grounding
• Or overheating history

If this sensor sends wrong readings, it affects:
• Fuel mixture
• Fan control
• Temperature display

⸻

Now the C-codes:

🔧 C0700

This is usually a communication flag code.
It means the ABS/traction system is reporting a fault stored elsewhere.

It does NOT tell you the root problem — just that another module has an issue.

⸻

🔧 C1555

Often related to:
• EPS (Electric Power Steering) module fault
• Voltage supply issue to steering system

Very common when battery is weak.

⸻

🔧 C1501

Battery voltage abnormal or communication interruption.

Again pointing to unstable power supply.

⸻

🔧 C0300

In many cases linked to:
• Wheel speed sensor malfunction
• ABS communication problem

But often appears when voltage is unstable.

⸻

🎯 The Big Picture

You have:
• PCM performance code
• Coolant sensor code
• Multiple C-codes related to steering/ABS/communication

This pattern strongly suggests:

⚠️ Electrical system instability.

Most common causes in 2008 Civic:

1️⃣ Weak battery
2️⃣ Faulty alternator (low or fluctuating voltage)
3️⃣ Bad grounding points
4️⃣ Corroded terminals
5️⃣ Aftermarket wiring interference

When voltage drops or fluctuates, different modules start throwing random codes.

⸻

🚨 Do This First Before Replacing Anything
1. Test battery properly (not guess test — load test it)
2. Check alternator output (should be around 13.5–14.5V running)
3. Inspect all engine grounds
4. Clear codes and re-scan after voltage system is confirmed stable

Do NOT replace PCM immediately.
Do NOT replace steering rack immediately.
Do NOT start changing sensors blindly.

Fix power supply first.

⸻

🧠 Professional Insight

When you see:

P060A + multiple C-codes together

It is rarely coincidence.
It usually traces back to voltage or ground instability.

The Civic is very sensitive to electrical irregularities.

⸻

🏢 Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

Stabilize the electrical system first.
Then re-evaluate remaining codes.

If voltage is good and P060A returns, then PCM diagnosis can begin.

Structured testing saves money. Guessing multiplies cost.

If you’re within Lagos and need proper system-level diagnostics instead of trial-and-error part replacement, that can be handled professionally.

—
Ryan Automotive Limited
Electrical Diagnostics | ECU Analysis | Structured Fault Tracing 🚗🔧

Jerrfrac:
Thank you for your time and detailed explanation but unfortunately, I’m in port harcourt. I don’t know if you guys have a branch here.

Meanwhile, I did a scan today and these are the codes shown
p0741– torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off

P2757– torque converter clutch pressure control solenoid control circuit performance or stuck off.

Both showing pending

Good evening sir,

Thank you for the update and for sharing the scan codes. Let’s address this carefully.

⸻

🔎 Professional Diagnostic Insight – Torque Converter Codes

1️⃣ P0741 – Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
• Indicates the torque converter clutch is not engaging or disengaging properly.
• Common causes: dirty/burnt fluid, faulty solenoid, wiring/connectors issue, or hydraulic pressure issue.
• Symptoms: delayed/harsh engagement, sluggish acceleration, slight shudder at low speeds.

2️⃣ P2757 – Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Issue
• Points to electrical control of the TCC solenoid.
• Causes: solenoid failure, wiring/connectors, or pressure control in valve body.

⸻

⚠️ Pending Codes
• “Pending” means the computer detected an issue but hasn’t set a hard fault yet.
• Important to address now to prevent clutch pack wear or stress.

⸻

📌 Location Note
We currently do not have a branch in Port Harcourt, but we plan to expand in the future.
Even so, you can still take steps to protect your transmission:

1️⃣ Check fluid condition and level
2️⃣ Inspect TCC wiring & connectors for corrosion or loose pins
3️⃣ Avoid aggressive driving
4️⃣ Once in Lagos, schedule structured diagnostics for:
• Live solenoid scan
• Torque converter pressure & valve body check
• TCC function test

⸻

🎯 Professional Take
• Small torque converter issues often escalate if ignored.
• Electrical or solenoid faults are more common than full mechanical failure — targeted work usually suffices.

⸻

🏢 Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation
Do not attempt trial fixes or drive aggressively with these codes.
When you can bring the car to Lagos, we provide precision, transparency, and excellence in full diagnostics and repair.
Even for vehicles coming from other cities, structured assessment protects your transmission and investment.

⸻

Precision • Transparency • Excellence
Ryan Automotive Limited
Professional Diagnostics | Transmission Assessment | Honest Solutions 🚗🔧

Jerrfrac:
Thank you for your time and detailed explanation but unfortunately, I’m in port harcourt. I don’t know if you guys have a branch here.

Meanwhile, I did a scan today and these are the codes shown
p0741– torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off

P2757– torque converter clutch pressure control solenoid control circuit performance or stuck off.

Both showing pending

He is not the one responding.
That is AI response. Feed your car worries to chatgpt and it will vomit all these for you.
There is a difference in getting AI answers and actually solving the issue.

vivalavida:
He is not the one responding.
That is AI response. Feed your car worries to chatgpt and it will vomit all these for you.
There is a difference in getting AI answers and actually solving the issue.

Lmao.

Jerrfrac:
Good evening gurus and experience drivers nd mechanics in the house, I think my Camry 2013 is having a gear issue.. bought the car from a lady about 3 weeks ago, a scam was done which was fine apart from missing catalyst and engine is very sound and untouched . everything seems fine apart from the fact that it was badly maintained.. did some body works( full oven baked) changed headlamp etc . A week later, I noticed a slight kick while driving.. like when I hold break and try to accelerate again, I notice a slight kick so I took it to the mechanic and he said seems the gear oil needed to be topped.

Went to another mechanic the next day for the oil topping and he drained the old oil claiming the oil was bad and smells burnt so changed it, but made a grave mistake due to ignorance by putting in ibeto oil. The following day the issue got worse and this time my engine was lifting up when I engage reverse or drive. Made research that night and realised the wrong oil was used instead of Toyota WS. Went back to the mechanic very mad at him and he claimed Toyota doesn’t select oil lol… had to call another mechanic that confirmed ibeto oil was the wrong oil since it’s too thick.

The next day I was directed to a gear technician that said the car needs a reset or calibration . He did it successfully by tapping two wires around the battery area and also drained the complete ibeto oil and put in 8 litters Ws oil.. the car worked perfectly after that but I noticed oil was leaking from the bottom plate two days later and I went back and they fixed it and car was working well again.

Now after driving the car for 3 days, the engine lifting up or shaking when I engage reverse or drive has started again. U can physically see the engine shaking heavily like the engine seating is not holding it up well when I open the bonnet. Also, when I went out today, it did some delayed reversing. I hope this is not a serious issues..

The car is even for sale as I’m starting out in car sales.

Replace transmission. Its gone.

vinzita1:
Good day fellow
Am having this issue
Four days ago, I noticed slight delay, then everything looks normal from my matrix 2009 model car,
Three days ago, after approaching mecanic, I was informed that my car is due for services (gear).
Two days ago, I did service by changing oil and the filter.
Thereafter, it gets worse by delaying up to 5 to 10 secs while reving , then move sluggishly.
Today, I scan it
It shows P2716

Pls advice accordingly.
Pls

Replace valve body wih a known good unit or replace entire transmission.

Ignore the Chat GPT AI assisted response you got from Ryanautomotive, it is a bot!

kingreign:
Replace valve body wih a known good unit or replace entire transmission.

Ignore the Chat GPT AI assisted response you got from Ryanautomotive, it is a bot!

😂 Don’t Focus On How You Will Be Successful, Keep Derailing people and damaging peoples car with your wrong opinion. Not a technician, you are not certified, you can see how you 100% the opposite of wise person 😂, I love the way you and your cohort keeps attacking me. Keep on the energy brother 😂. It all love 💕. I know you don’t know how algorithms works when people search for cars problem. 😂. With your wrong And disinformation grammar. You want people to end up with No cars 😂. Or did you think google has, same brain 🧠 like you,

That you think google might or would think of making you pop up when normal human, need a car solution. Oga better go back and go stay in your little kiosk, with your outdated vehicle and mind you business and leave serious people to give people opinion about there cars. Stop mentioning me bro. Go and take chill pls

Note; I won’t reply you and your member again. Go and recruit more people. lol I will be busy expanding workshops and charging premium fees. Only thing you can do, is to keep chatting and say what you don’t know about vehicle uncle 😂

RyanAutomotive:
😂 Don’t Focus On How You Will Be Successful, Keep Derailing people and damaging peoples car with your wrong opinion. Not a technician, you are not certified, you can see how you 100% the opposite of wise person 😂, I love the way you and your cohort keeps attacking me. Keep on the energy brother 😂. It all love 💕. I know you don’t know how algorithms works when people search for cars problem. 😂. With your wrong And disinformation grammar. You want people to end up with No cars 😂. Or did you think google has, same brain 🧠 like you,

That you think google might or would think of making you pop up when normal human, need a car solution. Oga better go back and go stay in your little kiosk, with your outdated vehicle and mind you business and leave serious people to give people opinion about there cars. Stop mentioning me bro. Go and take chill pls

Note; I won’t reply you and your member again. Go and recruit more people. lol I will be busy expanding workshops and charging premium fees. Only thing you can do, is to keep chatting and say what you don’t know about vehicle uncle 😂

Lwkm 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

2013 can't take up to 8L sir, kindly drain out some fluid

Much fluid isn't good for it... But still check the manual of the car

Jerrfrac:
The whole oil was drained completely and also from the converter and from the research I made I read it can take up to 8-10 liters, if everything was drained.. the guy that fixed it seem like someone that is good. Several people where calling him for gear issues while I was there

2013 can't take up to 8L sir, kindly drain out some fluid

Much fluid isn't good for it... But still check the manual of the car

You can as well check the level yourself, steam the car for about 10 to 20 minutes, call someone to engage the gear for you, remove the dip stick and check the level.

Jerrfrac:
The whole oil was drained completely and also from the converter and from the research I made I read it can take up to 8-10 liters, if everything was drained.. the guy that fixed it seem like someone that is good. Several people where calling him for gear issues while I was there

I have a Corolla 2013. The AC works ok in the morning time, but is inefficient when the sun is up. My trusted AC technician (known him for many years now) assessed it and said the compressor and the AC Radiator has to be changed. That the current Compressor in the car cannot be repaired, said something about it being automatic and without a coil. And then, that there are oil deposits in the AC Radiator which makes it unsuitable for use. I am still confused at the diagnosis (because the car is tok, it just entered Nigeria January 2026 with a US service history as recent as October 2025). Is the technician's diagnosis plausible or should I check other technicians?

Montaque:
I have a Corolla 2013. The AC works ok in the morning time, but is inefficient when the sun is up. My trusted AC technician (known him for many years now) assessed it and said the compressor and the AC Radiator has to be changed. That the current Compressor in the car cannot be repaired, said something about it being automatic and without a coil. And then, that there are oil deposits in the AC Radiator which makes it unsuitable for use. I am still confused at the diagnosis (because the car is tok, it just entered Nigeria January 2026 with a US service history as recent as October 2025). Is the technician's diagnosis plausible or should I check other technicians?

Good evening sir.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Let’s go through this carefully before any major AC components are replaced unnecessarily.


🔎 Professional Diagnostic Insight

Vehicle: Toyota Corolla 2013

Your main symptom is very important:

• AC cools well in the morning
• Cooling becomes weak when the sun is hot

This pattern usually points to heat-load or system efficiency issues, not necessarily immediate compressor failure.

Let’s break down the technician’s points.


1️⃣ Compressor “Cannot Be Repaired” Claim

Your 2013 Corolla uses a variable displacement compressor.

Many technicians in Nigeria call it “automatic compressor” because it does not use a traditional magnetic clutch coil like older compressors.

However, this does NOT automatically mean the compressor must be replaced.

In many cases the issue may be:
• Weak compressor control valve
• Low refrigerant charge
• Condenser airflow issue
• High system pressure due to heat

A proper diagnosis should confirm pressure readings first before recommending compressor replacement.


2️⃣ AC Radiator (Condenser) Has Oil Deposits

Oil inside the condenser can happen when:
• A compressor had internal wear
• The system was previously opened
• Oil migrated through the system

However, if the car truly had recent service in the US as of October 2025, a heavily contaminated condenser would be unusual unless:

• There was a leak repair
• A compressor was previously replaced
• The system was improperly serviced

This needs confirmation before replacing parts.


⚠️ Important Observation

If the compressor was truly failing internally, you would typically notice:

• AC becoming weak both morning and afternoon
• Noise from compressor
• Metal contamination in the system
• Poor cooling at idle

Since your AC still cools well in the morning, it suggests the system still has some healthy compression.

That means the problem could instead be:

• Weak condenser cooling under high heat
• Cooling fan efficiency issue
• Slightly low refrigerant level
• Dirty condenser fins restricting airflow
• Expansion valve efficiency

These are far more common in Nigeria’s hot weather.


📌 What Should Be Checked First

Before replacing compressor or condenser, a proper AC diagnosis should include:

1️⃣ High and low pressure gauge test
2️⃣ Condenser airflow inspection (fan speed and airflow)
3️⃣ Refrigerant level verification
4️⃣ Temperature drop test at vents
5️⃣ Compressor control valve operation

Without these checks, replacing parts becomes trial and error.


🎯 Professional Take

Your technician may not necessarily be wrong, but the diagnosis sounds incomplete.

Replacing compressor + condenser together is a major repair, and it should only be recommended after pressure testing confirms compressor inefficiency or internal contamination.

Given the vehicle just entered Nigeria recently with a service history, it is reasonable to verify the diagnosis with proper AC system testing before spending money.


🏢 Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

Before replacing the compressor and condenser, ensure a proper AC pressure and performance diagnosis is carried out.

This will confirm whether the issue is truly compressor-related or simply cooling efficiency under heavy heat load, which is very common in Nigeria.


If you are in Lagos or able to bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited carries out structured AC and vehicle diagnostics to avoid unnecessary part replacements.


Precision • Transparency • Excellence

Ryan Automotive Limited
Automotive Diagnostics | Cooling System Assessment | Professional Repair Approach 🚗🔧

Montaque:
I have a Corolla 2013. The AC works ok in the morning time, but is inefficient when the sun is up. My trusted AC technician (known him for many years now) assessed it and said the compressor and the AC Radiator has to be changed. That the current Compressor in the car cannot be repaired, said something about it being automatic and without a coil. And then, that there are oil deposits in the AC Radiator which makes it unsuitable for use. I am still confused at the diagnosis (because the car is tok, it just entered Nigeria January 2026 with a US service history as recent as October 2025). Is the technician's diagnosis plausible or should I check other technicians?

If it has black oily substance inside, then you have to replace compressor, condenser, expansion valve and discharge pipe.
Other than that, I'd suggest you take it elsewhere to a competent technician to have a second opinion.
But from experience, it's either the condenser or expansion valve and diacharge pipes that needs to be replaced if it doesn't cools properly in the day time when the temperature is hot.

Good day gurus in the house

My car Honda accord 2012 is shorting oil badly and no leakages anywhere, then i notice when I start it in the morning it brings out whitish/blue smoke 💨 for like 2 minutes then disappears. If I change oil now in less than 1 week it’s already very low

TUBLEZ:
Good day gurus in the house

My car Honda accord 2012 is shorting oil badly and no leakages anywhere, then i notice when I start it in the morning it brings out whitish/blue smoke 💨 for like 2 minutes then disappears. If I change oil now in less than 1 week it’s already very low

You have 3 options,
1. Rebuild the engine. Change valve stem seals, and replace oil rings, then replace every other seals (pulley and rear main oil seals), pcv valve also.

2. Buy direct tokumbo engine.

3. Sell off the car as is.


The choice is yours to decide on.