₦airaland Forum

crackhouse:
I bought a direct Belgium 1zz engine about a week plus now, I discovered that my car vibrates when parked and when moving slowly. I have changed all the engine seats, I have changed throttle, I have check the exhaust, I even changed the plugs but it's still vibrating.. what could be the cause.
It doesn't vibrate when I am speeding. It only does when I am idle(parked) or driving slowly.

Do you have a Peugeot AC compressor fitted to this car?

CLIQBOY:
Please is there any car audio expert recommendations here?

I'm searching for a JBL amplifier for 2016 Avalon

If you are in Lagos, go to Ladipo.

cardoctor:
Check the wire and the socket of the oil switch. If all is clear and still on, check the oil switch itself for blockage in the oil flow orifice. If clear, replace the switch.

Thanks so much

AfDapone:
Hello folk. my rx400h makes this noise every morning or mostly after 24 hours of sitting idle. What could be happening? Thanks.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCupMrDaGi8

Camshaft VVT sprockets. Has the engine been worked on before?

Seunisco:
Hi, everyone.

I’m really grateful for how anytime we come for advise here someone is always ready to assist.

I have come once again as regards a colleagues car which is to be fixed. It is a Toyota matrix.

The mechanic sent the following bill to us.

I want to know if the price is fair in view of the current market prices.


I’m also skeptical about the steering rack: I always hear things like when steering rack is faulty, it cannot be fixed

Also, gear oil for 45,000 naira. Is that not a fake gear oil.

I’ll be grateful for a requote.


Thank you so much.

How ridiculous

Louiscars:
If you’re in Lagos, I could refer you to a lady in Ladipo she’ll help you get it

Please how can I contact her?
Thank you

Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . that's around 10MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland .I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

haykay2005:
Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . that's around 10MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland .I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

So sorry you're experiencing this, was there any major repair carried out prior to this problem?

lyort:
So sorry you're experiencing this, was there any major repair carried out prior to this problem?

I bought it from someone last year and didn’t notice any signs of major repairs. I’ve been using it since then. I also went with an expert who confirmed that the engine and body were in good condition. At the time, I only saw two codes related to the EGR and ECT2 sensors.
Additionally, the fan was running directly, so I reset it to factory settings, thinking that would solve the issue. This doesn’t seem like a mechanical problem. It appears to be purely electrical.

Ki

haykay2005:
Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . that's around 10MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland .I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

Good morning sir.

Vehicle: Honda Civic 2006/2007 (1.8L)
Concern: Extremely high fuel consumption (~10 MPG / ~2–3 km per liter)

First, I understand your frustration — you’ve spent money, changed multiple parts, and still no solution. Let’s address this properly and professionally, not by guesswork.



Professional Diagnostic Insight

From everything you’ve explained:

• Multiple sensors already replaced (O2, MAF, ECT, etc.)
• No major active fault codes
• Engine runs relatively smooth
• LTFT is around -21% (very important)

This is the key:

A -21% Long Term Fuel Trim means the engine is running excessively RICH
(The ECU is trying to reduce fuel by 21%, which is very significant)

So your problem is not lack of fuel — it is over-fueling.



Important Observation

You mentioned:
• Spark plugs are brown (not black, not oily)
• No visible smoke
• Engine still runs “okay”

This is exactly how modern engines behave when running rich — they can hide the problem while silently consuming fuel.

Also, replacing sensors without fixing the root cause will not solve a fuel trim problem.



What Could Cause This Level of Fuel Consumption

Based on your data, these are the most likely causes:

1. Excessive Fuel Pressure (VERY LIKELY)
• Faulty fuel pressure regulator
• Weak return system or restricted return line

• This will force too much fuel into the engine regardless of sensor input

2. Faulty or Leaking Fuel Injectors
• Injectors dripping fuel instead of atomizing properly
• Can cause rich condition without misfire

3. Incorrect MAF Sensor Readings (Even if replaced)
• Aftermarket or incompatible MAF sensors can misread airflow
• ECU injects more fuel than required

4. EVAP System Fault (Purge Valve / Fuel Vapor Issue)
• Even if replaced, incorrect operation can dump excess fuel vapor into engine

5. Engine Not Reaching Proper Thermal Efficiency
• Even with new thermostat, must confirm actual operating temperature via scan data



Your LTFT (-21%) is the Smoking Gun

This tells us clearly:

• The ECU is actively fighting excess fuel
• The issue is mechanical or fuel delivery related, not just sensors



Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT replace more sensors blindly
• Do NOT continue trial-and-error repairs
• Do NOT assume “no code = no problem”
• Do NOT keep driving long-term with this condition



📌 What Should Be Checked Next (This Is Critical)

This is where most mechanics miss it:

1. Fuel Pressure Test (MANDATORY)
• Measure actual fuel pressure with a gauge
• Compare with Honda factory specification

2. Injector Leak Test / Balance Test
• Check if injectors are over-delivering fuel

3. Live Data Analysis (Not Just Scanning Codes)
Check:
• STFT / LTFT behavior
• MAF readings (grams/sec)
• Engine load
• Coolant temperature

4. Confirm Correct MAF Sensor Type (OEM Preferred)

5. Exhaust Backpressure Check (Optional but important)
• Blocked catalytic converter can sometimes affect fuel trims



Professional Insight

Your case is a classic example of misdiagnosis due to parts replacement instead of system testing.

The -21% fuel trim already tells us:

• The engine is being over-fueled from somewhere
• Until fuel pressure and injector behavior are tested, the problem will persist

This is why multiple mechanics couldn’t solve it — they focused on tools and parts, not data interpretation

Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

What you need now is structured diagnostic analysis, not more part replacement.

Focus on:
• Fuel pressure testing
• Injector performance testing
• Proper live data interpretation

Once the root cause is identified, the fix becomes straightforward and cost-effective.

If you are able to come to Lagos mainland, Ryan Automotive Limited handles advanced diagnostic scanning, fuel system analysis, and accurate fault tracing — not trial and error.

You’ve already spent enough — the next step must be precision diagnosis

Precision • Transparency • Excellence

Ryan Automotive Limited
Engine Diagnostics | Fuel System Analysis | Professional Repair Approach

Boss.
Are u enjoying ur ford? Like would u advise someone to get this exact same Ford. Especiallywhen the seller says the engine is 80% and need fixing or replacement after purchase

llade:
My 2013 Ford Edge battery drains every night even when I ensure everything including the lights are turned off, please what could be the cause.

haykay2005:
I bought it from someone last year and didn’t notice any signs of major repairs. I’ve been using it since then. I also went with an expert who confirmed that the engine and body were in good condition. At the time, I only saw two codes related to the EGR and ECT2 sensors.
Additionally, the fan was running directly, so I reset it to factory settings, thinking that would solve the issue. This doesn’t seem like a mechanical problem. It appears to be purely electrical.

Looks like the owner got rid of it for this reason and you became the unlucky buyer. Are there any past scan results? Please post

You can as well contact me since you're on the mainland.

CLIQBOY:
Please how can I contact her?
Thank you

+234 806 383 1828 Here’s her line, tell her from Louis

My Toyota Camry panic alarm turn on itself intermittently. Please any solution to this?

lyort:
Looks like the owner got rid of it for this reason and you became the unlucky buyer. Are there any past scan results? Please post

You can as well contact me since you're on the mainland.

P0128(returned to factory fan setting with thermostat) ,

p0497(purge valve replaced) ,

p2413(egr replaced) ,

p2185 (ect2 replaced).

Message sent

haykay2005:
P0128(returned to factory fan setting with thermostat) ,

p0497(purge valve replaced) ,

p2413(egr replaced) ,

p2185 (ect2 replaced).

Send me an email

cryptocherith:
My Toyota Camry panic alarm turn on itself intermittently. Please any solution to this?

If you have a factory anti-theft security system in your car and the oem remote, take out the battery in your remote for a while or keep the remote out of range. It should stop if the panic button on the remote is shorting or not returning to open position after being pressed but if it persist it's an electrical wiring problem. Have a qualified technician check your anti-theft system

lyort:
If you have a factory anti-theft security system in your car and the oem remote, take out the battery in your remote for a while or keep the remote out of range. It should stop if the panic button on the remote is shorting or not returning to open position after being pressed but if it persist it's an electrical wiring problem. Have a qualified technician check your anti-theft system

Thank you for your response, I really do appreciate.

lyort:
Send me an email

done. check your mail

haykay2005:
done. check your mail

Please chat me on whatsapp

08145186824

lyort:
Please chat me on whatsapp

08145186824

i will contact you asap , incase of any other suggestions from members. bellow is the full live data at idle position. i don't think this should lead to aggressive 10 MPG on a 1.8 litter engine. I believe that a slight under or over reporting on sensors is normal on old cars.


Engine Load & Manifold Data
• Calculated Engine Load (Idle, P Gear): 30.0% – 36.0%
• Absolute Load Value: 22.0%
• Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP): 33 – 40 kPa
• Barometric Pressure: 99 kPa
Fuel Trims (The "Rich" Indicator)
• Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT): -12.0% to -22.0%
• Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT): -17.0% to -21.0%

Air & Temperature Sensors
• Mass Air Flow (MAF) Reading: 2.5 – 3.6 g/s
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT): I move to 86°C – 96°C within 12 minutes, fan returned to factory settings
• O2 Sensor Voltage: 0.1V – 0.9V (Oscillating)
Throttle & Pedal Position
• Relative Throttle Position: 2.4%
• Absolute Throttle Position B: 30.6%
• Accelerator Pedal Position D: 20.8%
• Accelerator Pedal Position E: 10.2%
System Health & EVAP
• Control Module Voltage: 14.0V
• Commanded Evaporative Purge: 36.0%
• EVAP System Vapor Pressure: -53 Pa
• Spark Plug Condition: Healthy brown (no soot/blackness) and I never had any problem starting my car in the morning

I want to upgrade my car audio system. Does anyone know or have contact where I can buy an amplifier?

Hello House,
1. I have observed on my Toyota Corolla 2007 model. Vehicle can be parked by 5pm fully switched off and keys out and locked. Then at about 1 or 2am, you just hear the fan come on for about 1.5 minutes and then shuts off too on its own.

2. My Central Lock also after driving for about 20mins, the entire central lock locks and unlocks frequently without pressing any button.

They have clean every part of the button. Removed the BCM and clean it,yet the central lock becomes normal and then goes back to the lock and unlocking manner.

Please let me know how these two problems can be fixed. Much appreciated !!!

Louiscars:
+234 806 383 1828 Here’s her line, tell her from Louis

Thank you 🙏
I got the amplifier from her.

CLIQBOY:
Thank you 🙏
I got the amplifier from her.

You’re welcome sir

Hello house…
Please I want to ask, does ABS drain car battery? Because I was told by one of Rewire here and he said it’s the car ABS that’s draining the battery.
Because my Mercedes Benz c200 kompressor drains battery in less than 2-3hrs if I ever forget to remove the battery terminal.
Please anyone with solution…
Thanks

Onto01:
Hello House,
1. I have observed on my Toyota Corolla 2007 model. Vehicle can be parked by 5pm fully switched off and keys out and locked. Then at about 1 or 2am, you just hear the fan come on for about 1.5 minutes and then shuts off too on its own.

2. My Central Lock also after driving for about 20mins, the entire central lock locks and unlocks frequently without pressing any button.

They have clean every part of the button. Removed the BCM and clean it,yet the central lock becomes normal and then goes back to the lock and unlocking manner.

Please let me know how these two problems can be fixed. Much appreciated !!!

Electrical wiring problem. You need the electrical wiring checked for shorted or corroded wires and connectors and corroded relays by a qualified technician

Princelumide:
Hello house…
Please I want to ask, does ABS drain car battery? Because I was told by one of Rewire here and he said it’s the car ABS that’s draining the battery.
Because my Mercedes Benz c200 kompressor drains battery in less than 2-3hrs if I ever forget to remove the battery terminal.
Please anyone with solution…
Thanks

Any control module can cause battery drainage in a car so long as a parasitic drainage test has been carried out and that module is found to be the cause. So, yes abs can drain battery but this is very rare. Did the rewire do drainage test on your merc before resolving to the abs?

haykay2005:
i will contact you asap , incase of any other suggestions from members. bellow is the full live data at idle position. i don't think this should lead to aggressive 10 MPG on a 1.8 litter engine. I believe that a slight under or over reporting on sensors is normal on old cars.


Engine Load & Manifold Data
• Calculated Engine Load (Idle, P Gear): 30.0% – 36.0%
• Absolute Load Value: 22.0%
• Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP): 33 – 40 kPa
• Barometric Pressure: 99 kPa
Fuel Trims (The "Rich" Indicator)
• Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT): -12.0% to -22.0%
• Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT): -17.0% to -21.0%

Air & Temperature Sensors
• Mass Air Flow (MAF) Reading: 2.5 – 3.6 g/s
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT): I move to 86°C – 96°C within 12 minutes, fan returned to factory settings
• O2 Sensor Voltage: 0.1V – 0.9V (Oscillating)
Throttle & Pedal Position
• Relative Throttle Position: 2.4%
• Absolute Throttle Position B: 30.6%
• Accelerator Pedal Position D: 20.8%
• Accelerator Pedal Position E: 10.2%
System Health & EVAP
• Control Module Voltage: 14.0V
• Commanded Evaporative Purge: 36.0%
• EVAP System Vapor Pressure: -53 Pa
• Spark Plug Condition: Healthy brown (no soot/blackness) and I never had any problem starting my car in the morning

Mehn... those your fuel trims are really on the negative. Please check your fuel pressure. I had a similar issue with my acura tsx sometime ago. Many mechanics don't know about fuel pressure. I had to order fuel pressure kit from aliexpress and went full DIY mode. I realize my fuel pressure was high owing to a faulty fuel pressure regulator.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the Trims came back to normal.

Another angle you should check is leaky or over sized injectors. Pull out the injectors, place them on a platform while they are still connected to the car. Switch your ignition to ON Position and observe for leakage. Also, tell someone to help you start the car and also observe for the spray patterns.

Modified: just to add, many mechanics don't know that fuel pressure regulator have pressure ratings according to car type. They could be 2.5 bar, 3.5 bar... etc. Ensure you check the specs of your car model online before replacing. When I went to source for fuel pressure regulator, I also observed that the sellers don't even know that they are of different sizes. They just give you anything provided it will fit in.

ManAdii:
Mehn... those your fuel trims are really on the negative. Please check your fuel pressure. I had a similar issue with my acura tsx sometime ago. Many mechanics don't know about fuel pressure. I had to order fuel pressure kit from aliexpress and went full DIY mode. I realize my fuel pressure was high owing to a faulty fuel pressure regulator.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the Trims came back to normal.

Another angle you should check is leaky or over sized injectors. Pull out the injectors, place them on a platform while they are still connected to the car. Switch your ignition to ON Position and observe for leakage. Also, tell someone to help you start the car and also observe for the spray patterns.

Modified: just to add, many mechanics don't know that fuel pressure regulator have pressure ratings according to car type. They could be 2.5 bar, 3.5 bar... etc. Ensure you check the specs of your car model online before replacing. When I went to source for fuel pressure regulator, I also observed that the sellers don't even know that they are of different sizes. They just give you anything provided it will fit in.

This is the fuel pressure testing kit I bought for your reference.

Hello all,

So I went for a wheel alignment and balancing, this is my second time in 3 weeks because the first person didn't do a good job, so I sought for another location.

However this second person still did not fix the issue. I already had the legs checked and changed the linkages and tie rod in the Feb. So it's too early again for it to be the legs.

Meanwhile something strange happened, the guy doing the alignment, removed the horn cover on my steering and then tightened the centre nut that connects the steering in the middle

Now my steering feels a bit hard and I am concerned about this, is this a normal part of alignment process

Na frustration make me allow am ooo now I wish I didn't
It's an accord 2015

chukzyfcbb:
Hello all,

So I went for a wheel alignment and balancing, this is my second time in 3 weeks because the first person didn't do a good job, so I sought for another location.

However this second person still did not fix the issue. I already had the legs checked and changed the linkages and tie rod in the Feb. So it's too early again for it to be the legs.

Meanwhile something strange happened, the guy doing the alignment, removed the horn cover on my steering and then tightened the centre nut that connects the steering in the middle

Now my steering feels a bit hard and I am concerned about this, is this a normal part of alignment process

Na frustration make me allow am ooo now I wish I didn't
It's an accord 2015

What he did basically is re-Aligning the steering wheel so the vehicle drives straight and most likely it was over tightened