₦airaland Forum

Ok thank u

kingreign:
Use a Lexus ES350 spring instead.

RyanAutomotive:
Google Ryan Automotive Limited

Thanks. Just searched on google and not a single review on your Google profile.

olu98:
Thanks. Just searched on google and not a single review on your Google profile.

Oh wow

I need advice on my 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4L VVT-i (4-cylinder). 257,000 mileage.

I bought the car tokunbo in March. After replacing the knock sensor and servicing it with Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil (advanced synthetic) for high mileage cars. Shortly after, I started hearing a cold-start noise that disappears after a 10 minutes.
I spoke to two mechanic and they suggested that it might be water pump, so we bought a new one but issue still persist, we scanned it and Scanning showed P0012 and oxygen sensor (bank 1&2) low voltage codes, and the check engine light stays on.
I replaced the VVT-i oil control solenoid (Denso), oxygen sensor(s), and camshaft sprocket with brand-new parts, but the same codes remain. My mechanic has confirmed the timing chain, tensioner, and catalytic converter are all okay.

The car also consumes fuel a lot for a 4plugs engine and jerks when o press the brake especially at traffic lights. I've spent over 400k on brand new parts with no solution and have barely driven the car for 3months.

Could this be an electrical or wiring issue? I park near a refuse bin where rats are common, so I'm wondering if they may have damaged the wiring. Any advice on what to check next before.
I have scanned the car (4x) and the same code P0012 and 02 sensors persist.
I am frustrated because a friend who bought the same car (although V6 engine with 205,000 mileage) in April has only changed engine oil and has no complain at all.

olu98:
Hi Nairalanders,

I need a reliable wheel/suspension mechanic in Lagos, preferably on the Mainland, but I don’t mind going to the Island for someone who actually knows their onions.

I drive a Toyota Avalon and have been hearing a persistent noise from one of the front wheels. I suspect it might be a worn bushing, but I’m not entirely sure. The last two mechanics I took it to completely misdiagnosed the issue, so I want to avoid further guesswork and money waste.

Please drop your trusted recommendations (contacts and workshop location). Thanks!

Bump

OJURONGBE1:
I need advice on my 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4L VVT-i (4-cylinder). 257,000 mileage.

I bought the car tokunbo in March. After replacing the knock sensor and servicing it with Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil (advanced synthetic) for high mileage cars. Shortly after, I started hearing a cold-start noise that disappears after a 10 minutes.
I spoke to two mechanic and they suggested that it might be water pump, so we bought a new one but issue still persist, we scanned it and Scanning showed P0012 and oxygen sensor (bank 1&2) low voltage codes, and the check engine light stays on.
I replaced the VVT-i oil control solenoid (Denso), oxygen sensor(s), and camshaft sprocket with brand-new parts, but the same codes remain. My mechanic has confirmed the timing chain, tensioner, and catalytic converter are all okay.

The car also consumes fuel a lot for a 4plugs engine and jerks when o press the brake especially at traffic lights. I've spent over 400k on brand new parts with no solution and have barely driven the car for 3months.

Could this be an electrical or wiring issue? I park near a refuse bin where rats are common, so I'm wondering if they may have damaged the wiring. Any advice on what to check next before.
I have scanned the car (4x) and the same code P0012 and 02 sensors persist.
I am frustrated because a friend who bought the same car (although V6 engine with 205,000 mileage) in April has only changed engine oil and has no complain at all.

Change your mechanic first of all.

OJURONGBE1:
I need advice on my 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4L VVT-i (4-cylinder). 257,000 mileage.

I bought the car tokunbo in March. After replacing the knock sensor and servicing it with Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil (advanced synthetic) for high mileage cars. Shortly after, I started hearing a cold-start noise that disappears after a 10 minutes.
I spoke to two mechanic and they suggested that it might be water pump, so we bought a new one but issue still persist, we scanned it and Scanning showed P0012 and oxygen sensor (bank 1&2) low voltage codes, and the check engine light stays on.
I replaced the VVT-i oil control solenoid (Denso), oxygen sensor(s), and camshaft sprocket with brand-new parts, but the same codes remain. My mechanic has confirmed the timing chain, tensioner, and catalytic converter are all okay.

The car also consumes fuel a lot for a 4plugs engine and jerks when o press the brake especially at traffic lights. I've spent over 400k on brand new parts with no solution and have barely driven the car for 3months.

Could this be an electrical or wiring issue? I park near a refuse bin where rats are common, so I'm wondering if they may have damaged the wiring. Any advice on what to check next before.
I have scanned the car (4x) and the same code P0012 and 02 sensors persist.
I am frustrated because a friend who bought the same car (although V6 engine with 205,000 mileage) in April has only changed engine oil and has no complain at all.

If the car timing is set properly, you might have an electrical issue.
Needs to check for signal from the actuator socket to the ECU.
Ur ECU might be bad.
You need a good technician to check the car for you be4 you start buying part up and down.

Please who can recommend a good mechanic that scans vehicles before repair in Abuja. I live around the Karu axis.

Aspireahead:
Please who can recommend a good mechanic that scans vehicles before repair in Abuja. I live around the Karu axis.

@kingreign

Aspireahead:
Please who can recommend a good mechanic that scans vehicles before repair in Abuja. I live around the Karu axis.

You can contact me,.07034581213

Most drivers think engine wear happens when they're driving at high speed or stuck in heavy traffic.

Surprisingly, one of the most damaging moments for your engine happens just a few seconds after you start your car in the morning.

This is known as a cold start, and many motorists don't realize how important the right engine oil is during this period.

What Is a Cold Start?

A cold start simply means starting your engine after it has been parked long enough for it to cool down—usually overnight or after several hours.

During this time, most of the engine oil has settled back into the oil pan. When you start the engine, the oil pump has to circulate fresh oil to lubricate vital engine components.

Until that happens, moving metal parts experience more friction than normal.

Why Is Startup the Most Critical Time?

During the first few seconds after ignition:

- Oil hasn't fully reached every moving part.
- Cold oil flows more slowly than warm oil.
- Engine components haven't reached their normal operating temperature.
- Friction is temporarily higher.

This is why lubrication experts often say that a significant amount of normal engine wear occurs during startup.

The quicker your engine oil reaches critical components, the better protected your engine will be.

What Does the "W" in Engine Oil Mean?

You've probably seen engine oils labelled 0W-20, 5W-30, or 5W-40.

The "W" stands for Winter and indicates how well the oil flows when the engine is cold.

Generally:

- 0W flows more easily in very cold conditions.
- 5W-30 provides excellent cold-start protection for many modern vehicles.
- 5W-40 also performs well during startup while offering a slightly thicker protective oil film once the engine reaches operating temperature.

That doesn't mean one is automatically better than the other. The correct choice is always the one recommended by your vehicle manufacturer.

Why Oil Quality Matters

Choosing the correct viscosity is only half the story.

A quality engine oil should also:

- Protect against engine wear
- Resist oxidation
- Prevent sludge formation
- Keep the engine clean
- Maintain consistent performance throughout the service interval

This is why many motorists prefer reputable lubricant brands such as LUKOIL Lubricants, which manufacture engine oils designed to meet modern industry standards and manufacturer specifications.

How to Reduce Cold-Start Engine Wear

Protecting your engine every morning is easier than many people think.

Here are a few simple tips:

✅ Use the viscosity grade recommended in your owner's manual.

✅ Change your engine oil at the recommended interval.

✅ Replace the oil filter whenever you change the oil.

✅ Check your engine oil level regularly.

✅ Avoid revving the engine aggressively immediately after startup.

These simple habits can help reduce unnecessary wear and extend the life of your engine.

Some Common Myths
"Any engine oil is fine."

Not true.

Using an oil that doesn't meet your manufacturer's specifications can affect lubrication, fuel economy, and engine performance.

"I should let my car idle for several minutes before driving."

Modern vehicles generally don't require prolonged idling. In most cases, it's better to drive off gently after startup, allowing the engine to warm up under light load. Always follow your vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.

"If the oil still looks clean, I don't need to change it."

Engine oil can lose its protective properties long before it looks dirty. Appearance alone isn't a reliable indicator of oil condition.

Final Thoughts

Your engine experiences its greatest challenge before you've even left your driveway.

Choosing the right engine oil, using a quality lubricant, and sticking to the recommended service schedule can significantly reduce startup wear and help your engine last longer.

Remember, the best engine oil isn't simply the most expensive one—it's the one that meets your vehicle manufacturer's specifications.

Over to you...

Do you normally start your car and drive off immediately, or do you let it idle for a while first? Also, what engine oil grade are you currently using?

Let's hear your thoughts and experiences.

Hello guys, please I seriously need help with my car. The car is a 2012 Hyundai Sonata.

The car kept draining battery overnight, about 2 months ago the battery ran out while I was driving home so I took it to rewire to overhaul the wiring system. He asked me to buy a new outer fuse which I did. After it he said the alternator is bad, this alternator was just about since I bought. I bought another tokunbo alternator but the guy could not fix it, it wasn’t charging my batter. I brought another rewire, he said the alternator I bought is bad, he asked me to fix the old one, we fixed and he was able to install it and it was charging my batter. Few weeks after the alternator stop charging again, he inspected it and said we need to repair it again. We didn’t that again and it worked for about 3 weeks again and the battery light came on again


He asked me to buy another alternator and I did, when he installed it was blinking the battery warning sign, he condemned the alternator and I requested for a replacement from where I bought. He fixed the new one again and it was still blinking the warning sign. He said the speed clock is bad, and that is the reason the alternator is not charging the battery efficiently. He said I can drive the car for sometime while I find money to replace the speed clock. I drove the car for about 6 hours and the battery is totally drained. I have taken the car to another rewire now and condemned the alternator again, I told him to hold on because I do not think the problem is the alternator.

Please forgive my boring epistle, I don’t know how to explain better. I’m so confused and troubled right now

merrijosh:
Hello guys, please I seriously need help with my car. The car is a 2012 Hyundai Sonata.

The car kept draining battery overnight, about 2 months ago the battery ran out while I was driving home so I took it to rewire to overhaul the wiring system. He asked me to buy a new outer fuse which I did. After it he said the alternator is bad, this alternator was just about since I bought. I bought another tokunbo alternator but the guy could not fix it, it wasn’t charging my batter. I brought another rewire, he said the alternator I bought is bad, he asked me to fix the old one, we fixed and he was able to install it and it was charging my batter. Few weeks after the alternator stop charging again, he inspected it and said we need to repair it again. We didn’t that again and it worked for about 3 weeks again and the battery light came on again


He asked me to buy another alternator and I did, when he installed it was blinking the battery warning sign, he condemned the alternator and I requested for a replacement from where I bought. He fixed the new one again and it was still blinking the warning sign. He said the speed clock is bad, and that is the reason the alternator is not charging the battery efficiently. He said I can drive the car for sometime while I find money to replace the speed clock. I drove the car for about 6 hours and the battery is totally drained. I have taken the car to another rewire now and condemned the alternator again, I told him to hold on because I do not think the problem is the alternator.

Please forgive my boring epistle, I don’t know how to explain better. I’m so confused and troubled right now

The vehicles charging system would need to be properly inspected as well as a parasitic drain test carried out on the vehicle

Louiscars:
The vehicles charging system would need to be properly inspected as well as a parasitic drain test carried out on the vehicle

Please are you in Lagos? Do you have anyone that you can recommend to do all these checks?

merrijosh:
Please are you in Lagos? Do you have anyone that you can recommend to do all these checks?

I can do that for you, where in Lagos are you based here’s my contact info 08028992075

Louiscars:
I can do that for you, where in Lagos are you based here’s my contact info 08028992075

I sent you a message on whatsapp

merrijosh:
I sent you a message on whatsapp

I’ve replied sir

Hello all, I will be buying my first car by December. I am considering the Toyota camry 2011 XLE or the 2012-2014 camry. My budget is about 10m - 11m.

First question is, are the benefits of the 2012 - 2014 camry over the 2011 model worth hustling for more money to add or I can go for the 2011 model and be rest assured that I am settled for the next 3 - 5 years as regards car?

Second question. I was talking to my neighbour who has a Toyota corolla and he said he faces challenges with pot holes because of how low his car is. Does the Toyota camry 2011 or 2012 - 2014 model also face challenge with ground clearance and potholes? Will it be more advisable to go for a Venza because of the better ground clearance?

I am not considering the Lexus Rx because I want a car that has good fuel economy

adibo:
Hello all, I will be buying my first car by December. I am considering the Toyota camry 2011 XLE or the 2012-2014 camry. My budget is about 10m - 11m.

First question is, are the benefits of the 2012 - 2014 camry over the 2011 model worth hustling for more money to add or I can go for the 2011 model and be rest assured that I am settled for the next 3 - 5 years as regards car?

Second question. I was talking to my neighbour who has a Toyota corolla and he said he faces challenges with pot holes because of how low his car is. Does the Toyota camry 2011 or 2012 - 2014 model also face challenge with ground clearance and potholes? Will it be more advisable to go for a Venza because of the better ground clearance?

I am not considering the Lexus Rx because I want a car that has good fuel economy

You already know the answers to these questions...do as your mind feels ok with. Fuel economy is something you should calm down about too. If you're getting Toks, pray you get a nice one. You can get toks with bad fuel economy too (Bad catalyst or cracked one). Get a very good technician (esp electrician) to vet the car toks or not.

For your first-time car....try buy a smaller one to start with, maybe a 2010 Matrix or so. Camry 2012-2014 is a nice car, but the car no like management. Thank you

merrijosh:
Hello guys, please I seriously need help with my car. The car is a 2012 Hyundai Sonata.

The car kept draining battery overnight, about 2 months ago the battery ran out while I was driving home so I took it to rewire to overhaul the wiring system. He asked me to buy a new outer fuse which I did. After it he said the alternator is bad, this alternator was just about since I bought. I bought another tokunbo alternator but the guy could not fix it, it wasn’t charging my batter. I brought another rewire, he said the alternator I bought is bad, he asked me to fix the old one, we fixed and he was able to install it and it was charging my batter. Few weeks after the alternator stop charging again, he inspected it and said we need to repair it again. We didn’t that again and it worked for about 3 weeks again and the battery light came on again


He asked me to buy another alternator and I did, when he installed it was blinking the battery warning sign, he condemned the alternator and I requested for a replacement from where I bought. He fixed the new one again and it was still blinking the warning sign. He said the speed clock is bad, and that is the reason the alternator is not charging the battery efficiently. He said I can drive the car for sometime while I find money to replace the speed clock. I drove the car for about 6 hours and the battery is totally drained. I have taken the car to another rewire now and condemned the alternator again, I told him to hold on because I do not think the problem is the alternator.

Please forgive my boring epistle, I don’t know how to explain better. I’m so confused and troubled right now

check the earthing abi ground of the negative terminal of your battery head. Trace it all the way to the ground in the car and confirm it is in good condition. There was a time my battery light kept coming up and i was visiting rewires till one elderly man checked the earthing, corrected it. Its been three years and i have not seen my battery light again.i didnt even buy an alternator again after 3 previous rewire condemned my alternator.

merrijosh:
Hello guys, please I seriously need help with my car. The car is a 2012 Hyundai Sonata.

The car kept draining battery overnight, about 2 months ago the battery ran out while I was driving home so I took it to rewire to overhaul the wiring system. He asked me to buy a new outer fuse which I did. After it he said the alternator is bad, this alternator was just about since I bought. I bought another tokunbo alternator but the guy could not fix it, it wasn’t charging my batter. I brought another rewire, he said the alternator I bought is bad, he asked me to fix the old one, we fixed and he was able to install it and it was charging my batter. Few weeks after the alternator stop charging again, he inspected it and said we need to repair it again. We didn’t that again and it worked for about 3 weeks again and the battery light came on again


He asked me to buy another alternator and I did, when he installed it was blinking the battery warning sign, he condemned the alternator and I requested for a replacement from where I bought. He fixed the new one again and it was still blinking the warning sign. He said the speed clock is bad, and that is the reason the alternator is not charging the battery efficiently. He said I can drive the car for sometime while I find money to replace the speed clock. I drove the car for about 6 hours and the battery is totally drained. I have taken the car to another rewire now and condemned the alternator again, I told him to hold on because I do not think the problem is the alternator.

Please forgive my boring epistle, I don’t know how to explain better. I’m so confused and troubled right now

Good evening sir.

Vehicle: Hyundai Sonata 2012
Main concerns: Repeated battery discharge, intermittent/no alternator charging, repeated alternator replacements/repairs, and a battery warning light that continues to appear.

First, I sincerely understand your frustration. From the history you’ve provided, I would not recommend condemning another alternator at this stage. There is a pattern here that needs to be diagnosed systematically.


• Professional Diagnostic Insight

The most important part of your story is this:

• The battery was draining overnight.
• The wiring system was “overhauled.”
• Several alternators have been installed/repaired.
• Some alternators initially charged, then stopped charging after a few weeks.
• Another alternator was installed and the battery warning light continued blinking.
• You were told the speedometer/instrument cluster was responsible.
• The vehicle was driven for about 6 hours and the battery eventually went completely flat.

That sequence makes me concerned that the alternator may be a victim of another electrical/charging-system problem rather than the original cause.


• First Thing We Need to Separate

There are actually two different problems here:

1. Battery Drain While Parked

If the battery is going flat overnight, that suggests a possible parasitic electrical drain.

Possible causes include:

• A module refusing to go to sleep.
• Aftermarket alarm/tracker/audio equipment.
• Incorrect wiring modification.
• Faulty relay.
• Interior/boot/glovebox light remaining active.
• Body control module or another control unit staying awake.
• Wiring short or unintended power draw.

The alternator itself normally does not explain a battery draining overnight when the vehicle is parked.

That requires a proper parasitic-drain test.


2 Alternator Not Charging Properly

This is a separate charging-system diagnosis.

We need to establish exactly what voltage the alternator is producing under different conditions.

A proper test should include:

• Battery voltage before starting.
• Charging voltage immediately after starting.
• Charging voltage with headlights ON.
• Charging voltage with A/C ON.
• Charging voltage under electrical load.
• Alternator B+ voltage.
• Voltage at the battery during charging.
• Voltage-drop test on the positive and ground circuits.
• Alternator control/signal circuit verification.

Simply installing another alternator does not prove the alternator is the problem.


• The “Speed Clock” Explanation Needs Verification

I would be very careful about accepting the statement that the instrument cluster/speedometer is automatically the reason the alternator isn’t charging.

On modern Hyundai charging systems, the alternator can be electronically controlled, and communication/control circuits can affect charging strategy.

However, we should prove the actual fault with measurements and diagnostic data before condemning the instrument cluster.

A faulty cluster should not simply be replaced because the battery light is blinking.

We need to determine:

Is the alternator producing output?

If yes → where is that charging voltage being lost?

If no → is the alternator receiving the required power, ground, and control signal?

That distinction is extremely important.


• What Should Be Checked Now

I would recommend starting from the vehicle itself rather than buying another alternator.

Step 1 — Full Computerized Diagnostic Scan

Scan all relevant modules, not just the engine ECU.

Check for:

• Charging-system-related codes.
• BCM faults.
• Communication/CAN faults.
• Instrument cluster faults.
• Alternator control-related faults.
• Low-voltage history codes.

Step 2 — Charging System Test

Measure:

• Battery voltage.
• Alternator output.
• Voltage drop between alternator and battery.
• Engine/body ground voltage drop.
• Alternator power supply.
• Alternator control circuit.

Step 3 — Alternator Control Circuit

Verify whether the alternator is receiving the correct control signal.

If the alternator has power and ground but is not being commanded correctly, we then investigate the control circuit/module rather than automatically buying another alternator.

Step 4 — Parasitic Drain Test

After the vehicle is switched off and all modules have entered sleep mode, measure the vehicle’s resting current draw.

If excessive current is found, isolate the circuit responsible by checking fuses/modules systematically.

Step 5 — Inspect Previous Wiring Repairs

This is particularly important in your case.

You mentioned that the wiring system was “overhauled.”

We need to physically inspect for:

• Non-factory wiring.
• Incorrectly joined wires.
• Added jumpers.
• Poor grounds.
• Modified alternator wiring.
• Incorrect fuse installation.
• Aftermarket accessories.
• Damaged connectors.

A previous wiring modification can create repeated electrical problems even when individual components are good.


• Please Do NOT Do This Again

For now, I would strongly advise you not to buy another alternator until the charging system has been properly tested.

Also avoid:

• Repeatedly repairing different alternators without identifying why they fail.
• Replacing the instrument cluster based only on assumption.
• Driving the vehicle for hours while the battery warning light is illuminated.
• Continuing to drive after the battery warning light appears.

When the charging system fails, the vehicle eventually operates entirely from the battery until voltage becomes too low, at which point multiple systems can begin shutting down.


• Professional Insight

The fact that you have had multiple alternators either repaired, replaced, or condemned is actually a reason to stop replacing alternators and start diagnosing the entire charging and electrical system.

There may be an underlying issue involving:

Battery → Alternator → Power/ground circuits → Alternator control → ECU/BCM → Wiring → Parasitic drain.

And because you originally had an overnight battery drain, I would want that problem investigated as well.

The battery going flat after approximately six hours of driving is especially concerning because it suggests the vehicle may have been running primarily from stored battery energy rather than receiving adequate charging.


• Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

My recommendation is not another alternator replacement as the first step.

Bring the vehicle for a structured electrical and computerized diagnosis.

We would start with:

1. Full computerized diagnostic scan.
2. Charging-system performance test.
3. Alternator power, ground and control-circuit testing.
4. Voltage-drop testing.
5. Battery health assessment.
6. Parasitic-drain testing.
7. Inspection of previous wiring modifications.
8. Verification of the instrument cluster/charging communication system if the tests point in that direction.

Only after these tests should we determine whether the actual culprit is the alternator, wiring, battery, control circuit, module, instrument cluster, or another electrical component.

This is exactly the type of case where “let’s change another alternator and see” can become very expensive.

If you’re in Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited can carry out the diagnosis systematically and give you a proper report before recommending any replacement.

No diagnosis, no unnecessary parts replacement.

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision • Transparency • Excellence

vivalavida:
check the earthing abi ground of the negative terminal of your battery head. Trace it all the way to the ground in the car and confirm it is in good condition. There was a time my battery light kept coming up and i was visiting rewires till one elderly man checked the earthing, corrected it. Its been three years and i have not seen my battery light again.i didnt even buy an alternator again after 3 previous rewire condemned my alternator.

Thank you

RyanAutomotive:
Good evening sir.

Vehicle: Hyundai Sonata 2012
Main concerns: Repeated battery discharge, intermittent/no alternator charging, repeated alternator replacements/repairs, and a battery warning light that continues to appear.

First, I sincerely understand your frustration. From the history you’ve provided, I would not recommend condemning another alternator at this stage. There is a pattern here that needs to be diagnosed systematically.


• Professional Diagnostic Insight

The most important part of your story is this:

• The battery was draining overnight.
• The wiring system was “overhauled.”
• Several alternators have been installed/repaired.
• Some alternators initially charged, then stopped charging after a few weeks.
• Another alternator was installed and the battery warning light continued blinking.
• You were told the speedometer/instrument cluster was responsible.
• The vehicle was driven for about 6 hours and the battery eventually went completely flat.

That sequence makes me concerned that the alternator may be a victim of another electrical/charging-system problem rather than the original cause.


• First Thing We Need to Separate

There are actually two different problems here:

1. Battery Drain While Parked

If the battery is going flat overnight, that suggests a possible parasitic electrical drain.

Possible causes include:

• A module refusing to go to sleep.
• Aftermarket alarm/tracker/audio equipment.
• Incorrect wiring modification.
• Faulty relay.
• Interior/boot/glovebox light remaining active.
• Body control module or another control unit staying awake.
• Wiring short or unintended power draw.

The alternator itself normally does not explain a battery draining overnight when the vehicle is parked.

That requires a proper parasitic-drain test.


2 Alternator Not Charging Properly

This is a separate charging-system diagnosis.

We need to establish exactly what voltage the alternator is producing under different conditions.

A proper test should include:

• Battery voltage before starting.
• Charging voltage immediately after starting.
• Charging voltage with headlights ON.
• Charging voltage with A/C ON.
• Charging voltage under electrical load.
• Alternator B+ voltage.
• Voltage at the battery during charging.
• Voltage-drop test on the positive and ground circuits.
• Alternator control/signal circuit verification.

Simply installing another alternator does not prove the alternator is the problem.


• The “Speed Clock” Explanation Needs Verification

I would be very careful about accepting the statement that the instrument cluster/speedometer is automatically the reason the alternator isn’t charging.

On modern Hyundai charging systems, the alternator can be electronically controlled, and communication/control circuits can affect charging strategy.

However, we should prove the actual fault with measurements and diagnostic data before condemning the instrument cluster.

A faulty cluster should not simply be replaced because the battery light is blinking.

We need to determine:

Is the alternator producing output?

If yes → where is that charging voltage being lost?

If no → is the alternator receiving the required power, ground, and control signal?

That distinction is extremely important.


• What Should Be Checked Now

I would recommend starting from the vehicle itself rather than buying another alternator.

Step 1 — Full Computerized Diagnostic Scan

Scan all relevant modules, not just the engine ECU.

Check for:

• Charging-system-related codes.
• BCM faults.
• Communication/CAN faults.
• Instrument cluster faults.
• Alternator control-related faults.
• Low-voltage history codes.

Step 2 — Charging System Test

Measure:

• Battery voltage.
• Alternator output.
• Voltage drop between alternator and battery.
• Engine/body ground voltage drop.
• Alternator power supply.
• Alternator control circuit.

Step 3 — Alternator Control Circuit

Verify whether the alternator is receiving the correct control signal.

If the alternator has power and ground but is not being commanded correctly, we then investigate the control circuit/module rather than automatically buying another alternator.

Step 4 — Parasitic Drain Test

After the vehicle is switched off and all modules have entered sleep mode, measure the vehicle’s resting current draw.

If excessive current is found, isolate the circuit responsible by checking fuses/modules systematically.

Step 5 — Inspect Previous Wiring Repairs

This is particularly important in your case.

You mentioned that the wiring system was “overhauled.”

We need to physically inspect for:

• Non-factory wiring.
• Incorrectly joined wires.
• Added jumpers.
• Poor grounds.
• Modified alternator wiring.
• Incorrect fuse installation.
• Aftermarket accessories.
• Damaged connectors.

A previous wiring modification can create repeated electrical problems even when individual components are good.


• Please Do NOT Do This Again

For now, I would strongly advise you not to buy another alternator until the charging system has been properly tested.

Also avoid:

• Repeatedly repairing different alternators without identifying why they fail.
• Replacing the instrument cluster based only on assumption.
• Driving the vehicle for hours while the battery warning light is illuminated.
• Continuing to drive after the battery warning light appears.

When the charging system fails, the vehicle eventually operates entirely from the battery until voltage becomes too low, at which point multiple systems can begin shutting down.


• Professional Insight

The fact that you have had multiple alternators either repaired, replaced, or condemned is actually a reason to stop replacing alternators and start diagnosing the entire charging and electrical system.

There may be an underlying issue involving:

Battery → Alternator → Power/ground circuits → Alternator control → ECU/BCM → Wiring → Parasitic drain.

And because you originally had an overnight battery drain, I would want that problem investigated as well.

The battery going flat after approximately six hours of driving is especially concerning because it suggests the vehicle may have been running primarily from stored battery energy rather than receiving adequate charging.


• Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

My recommendation is not another alternator replacement as the first step.

Bring the vehicle for a structured electrical and computerized diagnosis.

We would start with:

1. Full computerized diagnostic scan.
2. Charging-system performance test.
3. Alternator power, ground and control-circuit testing.
4. Voltage-drop testing.
5. Battery health assessment.
6. Parasitic-drain testing.
7. Inspection of previous wiring modifications.
8. Verification of the instrument cluster/charging communication system if the tests point in that direction.

Only after these tests should we determine whether the actual culprit is the alternator, wiring, battery, control circuit, module, instrument cluster, or another electrical component.

This is exactly the type of case where “let’s change another alternator and see” can become very expensive.

If you’re in Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited can carry out the diagnosis systematically and give you a proper report before recommending any replacement.

No diagnosis, no unnecessary parts replacement.

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision • Transparency • Excellence

Thank you for the detailed analyses

Greetings my ogas

My check engine light has been showing since I bought my car some months ago and and scanning says my oxygen sensor is bad
So I came across this product but I'm a little scared to use it

Has anyone used this product before?
What is the experience after use?

Thanks

Jesustheking:
Greetings my ogas

My check engine light has been showing since I bought my car some months ago and and scanning says my oxygen sensor is bad
So I came across this product but I'm a little scared to use it

Has anyone used this product before?
What is the experience after use?

Thanks

Change your oxygen sensors to a good one. Don't waste money on trial and errors.

Jesustheking:
Greetings my ogas

My check engine light has been showing since I bought my car some months ago and and scanning says my oxygen sensor is bad
So I came across this product but I'm a little scared to use it

Has anyone used this product before?
What is the experience after use?

Thanks

Just get a new 02 sensor, what vehicle is this ?

Hi everyone, good morning. I’m hoping someone can help me diagnose two issues I’m currently having with my 2009 Toyota Camry, 2.4L (2AZ engine).

1. Steering vibration: When I slow down and then accelerate again, the steering wheel vibrates quite noticeably. It also vibrates when I’m driving at high speed and apply the brakes. However, it doesn’t vibrate when I’m simply driving at high speed without braking.
2. Hub/bearing noise: The hub bearing was making a noticeable noise, so I replaced it, but the noise is still there. I’m not sure what else could be causing the sound.

I’d really appreciate any ideas on what could be responsible for these two issues. Thanks in advance.

Thanks boss

My car is 2006 Camry (big Daddy)

Pls do you have idea of how much oxygen sensor can cost?

sandammy:
Change your oxygen sensors to a good one. Don't waste money on trial and errors.

Thanks Chief

The car is 2006 Camry (Big Daddy)

How much do you think I can get the oxygen sensor?

Louiscars:
Just get a new 02 sensor, what vehicle is this ?

adibo:
Hello all, I will be buying my first car by December. I am considering the Toyota camry 2011 XLE or the 2012-2014 camry. My budget is about 10m - 11m.

First question is, are the benefits of the 2012 - 2014 camry over the 2011 model worth hustling for more money to add or I can go for the 2011 model and be rest assured that I am settled for the next 3 - 5 years as regards car?


Second question. I was talking to my neighbour who has a Toyota corolla and he said he faces challenges with pot holes because of how low his car is. Does the Toyota camry 2011 or 2012 - 2014 model also face challenge with ground clearance and potholes? Will it be more advisable to go for a Venza because of the better ground clearance?

I am not considering the Lexus Rx because I want a car that has good fuel economy

I can buy and ship any tokunbo car of your choice for you and it will be here before december ceteris paribus.

As per fuel economy, as long as the engine, trans and emission systems are okay, the camry should give you excellent fuel economy. Driving style and traffic density will affect this as well.

For ground clearance, the 2012 camry has a slightly longer "nose" compared to the 2011. They both have the same engine though. Ground clearance is about the same but you can get tyres with a taller side wall to give you more ground clearance.

I would have suggested the rav4 but the fuel economy is not as good as the camry nor the corolla as it is a heavier car.

There are also ways to drive around potholes using skillful tire placement. Experience will teach you this.

All the best in your quest.

slysdesign:
Hi everyone, good morning. I’m hoping someone can help me diagnose two issues I’m currently having with my 2009 Toyota Camry, 2.4L (2AZ engine).

1. Steering vibration: When I slow down and then accelerate again, the steering wheel vibrates quite noticeably. It also vibrates when I’m driving at high speed and apply the brakes. However, it doesn’t vibrate when I’m simply driving at high speed without braking.
2. Hub/bearing noise: The hub bearing was making a noticeable noise, so I replaced it, but the noise is still there. I’m not sure what else could be causing the sound.

I’d really appreciate any ideas on what could be responsible for these two issues. Thanks in advance.

U may have a misfire issue with this ur explanation sir.
Scan the car and let see if you have any engine code

9icetoo:
I can buy and ship any tokunbo car of your choice for you and it will be here before december ceteris paribus.

As per fuel economy, as long as the engine, trans and emission systems are okay, the camry should give you excellent fuel economy. Driving style and traffic density will affect this as well.

For ground clearance, the 2012 camry has a slightly longer "nose" compared to the 2011. They both have the same engine though. Ground clearance is about the same but you can get tyres with a taller side wall to give you more ground clearance.

I would have suggested the rav4 but the fuel economy is not as good as the camry nor the corolla as it is a heavier car.

There are also ways to drive around potholes using skillful tire placement. Experience will teach you this.

All the best in your quest.

Thanks a lot, I appreciate