₦airaland Forum

czar2k16:
Good Day good people, please I need your help 🙏🏾
My car sometimes makes a sudden grrr sound accompanied with slight vibrations.
This occurs intermittently & can happen at any speed but rarely at high speed.

I had it scanned, and i attached the result below.
The vehicle is a 2008 Toyota Camry.

I sorted out the ignition coil & Air Conditioning issue.

Thanks

RyanAutomotive:
Good afternoon sir.

Vehicle Details
Make: Toyota
Model: Camry
Year: 2008


Main Complaint: Intermittent grinding/“grrr” sound accompanied by slight vibrations, occurring at different speeds but rarely at high speed.

Diagnostic Report: Multiple fault codes recorded in the Engine/ECT, ABS/VSC/TRC and A/C systems.

I have reviewed the diagnostic report you shared. Since you have already attended to the ignition coil and air-conditioning issues, let’s concentrate on the intermittent grinding noise and the remaining fault codes before any further parts replacement.


1, Understanding the ABS/VSC/TRC Fault Codes

Your diagnostic report shows the following codes:

• C0200 — Front Speed Sensor RH Circuit

This indicates a fault involving the right-front wheel-speed sensor circuit.

• C0210 — Rear Speed Sensor RH Circuit

This indicates a fault involving the right-rear wheel-speed sensor circuit.

• C1333 — Open Circuit in Left Rear Speed Sensor Circuit

This indicates an open electrical circuit or an interruption in the left-rear wheel-speed sensor circuit.

• C1237 — Speed Sensor Rotor Faulty

This indicates a fault associated with the wheel-speed sensing signal or the sensor rotor/encoder system, depending on the vehicle’s configuration.

These codes deserve careful attention because the ABS, traction control and vehicle stability systems depend on reliable wheel-speed information.

Possible causes include:

* Damaged wheel-speed sensor wiring.
* Loose, corroded or damaged connectors.
* Faulty wheel-speed sensors.
* Damaged or contaminated sensor rotors or magnetic encoder rings.
* Incorrect sensor installation or excessive sensor-to-rotor clearance, where applicable.
* Wheel-bearing or hub problems affecting the encoder signal.

Important: The codes do not automatically mean that all the wheel-speed sensors need replacement. Multiple sensor-circuit codes may indicate separate faults, wiring damage or a shared electrical issue. Testing is required to establish the actual cause.


2. Could the ABS/Speed Sensor Faults Be Causing the Grinding Noise?

Possibly, but we should not assume that they are responsible for the noise without further inspection.

A damaged wheel bearing, hub or sensor rotor may sometimes produce noise while also affecting the wheel-speed signal. However, an electrical sensor fault alone would not normally explain a physical grinding sound.

The intermittent “grrr” sound and slight vibration could also originate from:

* A worn or damaged wheel bearing.
* A brake pad, brake disc or brake dust shield making contact.
* A damaged CV joint or driveshaft component.
* A loose suspension or underbody component.
* A tyre defect or foreign object contacting a rotating component.
* A drivetrain component developing an intermittent mechanical fault.

The priority is to identify exactly where the noise originates and determine whether it is related to wheel rotation, braking, acceleration or vehicle speed.


3, Understanding the Engine Fault Codes

Your report also shows:

• P0441 — Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow (Pending)

This indicates that the engine computer has detected an unexpected purge-flow condition in the fuel-vapour emission control system.

Possible causes include a faulty purge valve, leaking or obstructed EVAP hoses, a vent-system issue or another fault affecting purge flow.

This code would not normally explain a grinding noise accompanied by vibration, so it should be investigated separately.

• P0352 — Ignition Coil “B” Primary/Secondary Circuit (Current and History)

This indicates a fault in the electrical circuit associated with ignition coil B.

Since you mentioned that you have already sorted out the ignition coil issue, the next step is to confirm whether P0352 has returned after the repair.

If it remains current, the coil, connector, wiring, power supply and control circuit should be checked. If it is only stored in history and the fault no longer returns, it may relate to the previous problem.


4, Understanding the A/C Fault Code

• B1423 — Open in Pressure Sensor Circuit / Abnormal Refrigerant Pressure

This code indicates an issue involving the A/C refrigerant-pressure sensing circuit or an abnormal pressure-related signal, depending on the system.

Possible causes include:

* A faulty refrigerant-pressure sensor.
* Damaged wiring or a poor connector connection.
* An electrical supply or ground issue.
* An actual refrigerant-pressure problem requiring further investigation.

Since you mentioned that you have already attended to the A/C issue, this code should be rechecked to determine whether it remains active.

Do not replace the pressure sensor simply because the code appears; the circuit and actual refrigerant pressure should be assessed first.


5, What Should Be Checked Now?

Before buying any additional parts, I recommend the following diagnostic procedure:

1, Locate the Grinding Noise

Carry out a careful road test, where safe, to establish whether the noise changes with vehicle speed, braking, acceleration or steering direction.

2, Inspect All Four Wheel Ends

Check the wheel bearings, hubs, brake discs, pads, dust shields and tyres for wear, looseness or physical contact.

3, Diagnose the ABS Wheel-Speed Circuits

Inspect the wiring and connectors associated with the right-front, right-rear and left-rear wheel-speed sensors.

4, Examine Live Wheel-Speed Data

Use a suitable diagnostic scanner to compare all four wheel-speed readings during controlled testing. An intermittent or inconsistent signal may help identify the affected circuit.

5, Inspect the Sensor Rotors and Encoder Rings

Check for damage, contamination, incorrect installation or faults in the magnetic encoder system, where fitted.

6,Recheck the Engine and A/C Codes

Confirm which codes remain current after the previous repairs and investigate any that return.


6, Do NOT Do This

* Do not replace all the ABS sensors simply because multiple codes are present.
* Do not assume the grinding noise is electrical without inspecting the mechanical components.
* Do not ignore a possible wheel-bearing or brake fault.
* Do not clear the codes and assume the problem has been resolved.
* Do not continue driving if the grinding becomes severe, the vehicle pulls unexpectedly, a wheel develops excessive play, or braking performance changes.

If the noise is coming from a wheel bearing, brake component or another rotating part, continued driving could worsen the damage.


7, Professional Insight

The most important concern here is the combination of an intermittent grinding noise, slight vibration and multiple ABS wheel-speed circuit faults.

These faults may be related if a wheel-end component, encoder or wiring is damaged, but they may also represent separate problems.

My recommendation is to investigate the grinding noise and wheel-speed sensor circuits first, while treating the P0441, P0352 and B1423 codes as separate diagnostic items unless testing establishes a connection.

This approach will help prevent unnecessary sensor replacement and ensure that a potentially safety-related mechanical fault is not overlooked.


8, Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

At Ryan Automotive Limited, we recommend a structured diagnosis that combines physical inspection with computerized testing.

Our assessment can include:

• Road-test diagnosis of the intermittent noise.
• Wheel bearing, hub and brake inspection.
• ABS/VSC/TRC fault diagnosis.
• Wheel-speed sensor circuit and live-data testing.
• Engine fault-code verification.
• A/C pressure-sensor circuit assessment.
• Identification of the root cause before repairs are recommended.

If you are in Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, you are welcome to visit Ryan Automotive Limited, along LASU–Isheri Road, for a professional assessment.

We diagnose the fault first and explain our findings before recommending repairs. Our goal is to identify the root cause, not simply replace parts until the symptoms disappear.

RYAN AUTOMOTIVE LIMITED
Precision • Transparency • Excellence.

czar2k16:
Good Day good people, please I need your help 🙏🏾
My car sometimes makes a sudden grrr sound accompanied with slight vibrations.
This occurs intermittently & can happen at any speed but rarely at high speed.

I had it scanned, and i attached the result below.
The vehicle is a 2008 Toyota Camry.

I sorted out the ignition coil & Air Conditioning issue.

Thanks

cyif2003:
Abeg all this new car batteries in d market no dey last 6months again. Who get tokumbo battery follow come for sale

ugreat:
You need to be banned from this place. You're constituting nuisance.
"Simply clearing the dashboard warning light without properly repairing the SRS system is unsafe and is not a professional solution. The airbag system is a critical safety feature and should be restored to factory operating condition" Where did he mention this? You're using AI irresponsibly. You don't even read what AI gives you.

3kay945:
Have you tried RUNALL?

cyif2003:
na for aba dem dey make runal battery

3kay945:
ehnn... if so, i guess Solite too is from Aba.
Cos, i left Solite for Runall and its lasted more than the Solite. in my own case though.

That is good niyen.

3kay945:
If I get your grr sound well and compare to the experience I had, I can suggest you check the ABS or speed sensor expecially at the rear wheels. There could be partial contact. You can disconnect the sensor and drive it.

I experience that when the two wires had contact. More pronounced when I wanted to move over a speed bumps.

RyanAutomotive:
Your office location is far from me. I can’t take the car all the way. Please anyone close to Ago palace way to help me with this?

Good morning sir.

Vehicle: Lexus RX350
Concern: Infotainment/Bluetooth system was working before electrical work was carried out around the gear selector. Subsequently, the infotainment system was disconnected/rewired, an alternative radio connection and AUX setup were installed, and now the Bluetooth audio is distorted. The steering-wheel audio controls also no longer function.

Let’s address this carefully because the symptoms strongly suggest that the original infotainment wiring/configuration has been altered, and further cutting or joining wires may create additional problems.


• Understanding the Situation

There are actually two separate issues here:

1. Bluetooth Audio Is Distorted

Since the radio still works normally but music played through the modified Bluetooth/AUX arrangement sounds distorted, the problem could be related to:

• Incorrect AUX/audio signal connection.
• Poor-quality or damaged AUX interface.
• Incorrect grounding.
• Incorrect audio input/output connection.
• Damaged connector or wiring.
• An aftermarket interface that is not compatible with the factory infotainment system.
• The original factory Bluetooth/audio module no longer communicating correctly.

Simply connecting an AUX cable to another radio system does not necessarily restore the factory audio architecture.


2. Steering-Wheel Audio Controls No Longer Work

This is particularly important.

The steering-wheel controls communicate with the vehicle’s infotainment system through the factory wiring/network.

If a connector or branch cable was removed and the system was then connected differently, it can cause:

• Loss of steering-wheel volume control.
• Loss of track/station controls.
• Loss of audio control communication.
• Communication errors between the infotainment system and other vehicle modules.

So your suspicion that the modification may be related to the steering controls is reasonable, but it should be confirmed rather than assumed.



• Important Observation

I would strongly advise against allowing another technician to simply cut more wires or install another aftermarket radio.

The fact that the system originally worked and the problem appeared after the gear-selector/infotainment wiring was disturbed is an important diagnostic clue.

The correct approach is to determine:

What was originally connected → what was removed → what was modified → what is currently connected.

That is much better than continuing to modify the system blindly.



• What Should Be Checked Now

A professional technician should first:

1. Inspect the entire infotainment wiring and connectors.

2. Identify the cable that was removed and determine its original factory function.

3. Verify all factory connectors behind the infotainment unit.

4. Check for:

• Bent or damaged pins.
• Loose connectors.
• Broken wires.
• Incorrectly joined wires.
• Poor grounds.
• Non-factory connections.

5. Perform a computerized scan of the relevant vehicle modules to check for communication faults.

6. Test the factory infotainment system before reconnecting any aftermarket AUX equipment.

7. Verify the steering-wheel audio-control communication.

8. Restore the factory wiring configuration wherever possible.

9. Test the original Bluetooth system again before considering replacement of the head unit or other expensive components.


• Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT allow anyone to keep cutting the factory wiring to make the system work.

• Do NOT replace the entire infotainment system before checking the wiring and communication network.

• Do NOT assume the radio itself is bad simply because Bluetooth audio is distorted.

• Do NOT continue adding AUX adapters and other components until the original wiring has been properly assessed.

Most importantly, don’t let anyone randomly reconnect those cables based on colour alone. Factory wiring should be identified using the correct wiring diagram and circuit testing.


• Professional Insight

From the sequence you’ve described, I would first investigate the electrical/wiring modification and factory infotainment communication, rather than immediately condemning the infotainment unit.

The radio working while Bluetooth is distorted and the steering-wheel controls have simultaneously stopped working gives us useful information.

It is possible that there is more than one issue, but the timing of the problem—after the infotainment/gear-selector area was dismantled and rewired—means that the previous work needs to be carefully reviewed.

Also, because the vehicle has already had multiple modifications, the first objective should be to restore and verify the original factory connections before introducing another solution.


• Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

If you’re in Lagos or can bring the RX350 down, Ryan Automotive Limited can properly assess the electrical and infotainment system.

Our approach would be:

1. Computerized diagnostic scan
2. Physical inspection of the infotainment wiring
3. Factory connector and circuit verification
4. Steering-wheel control testing
5. Bluetooth/audio system testing
6. Identification of previous modifications
7. Restoration of the correct factory connections where possible

If we discover a damaged cable, connector, module, or infotainment component, we’ll explain exactly what has been found and provide the repair options before any additional work is carried out.

The objective is not simply to make the music play—we want to restore the system correctly and determine why the factory controls stopped working in the first place.

You’re welcome to bring the RX350 to Ryan Automotive Limited, Lagos, for a structured diagnosis.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision • Transparency • Excellence

czar2k16:
My Vehicle’s door lock remote controlnis misbehahing.

My rewire diagnosed the vehicles door control reciever as the culprit.

Hes charging me N40k total cost for replacement.
Im of the opinion the price is a bit high, or ami I wrong?

Vehicle ia a 2008 Toyota Camry.
Location Lagos - Abule Egba
Picture of the faulty device is attached.

EdihA:
Please my 2014 Corolla cvt gearbox that was replaced earlier this year is seriously leaking oil. Tried to patch it with different types of gums but still leakage always finds a way to come out. The vehicle also struggles to move when the car has heated up. Any time I try to accelerate during stop and go traffic or climbing a hill, it will be dragging and struggling to accelerate as if I'm towing a train behind me. Any reliable gearbox specialist here especially in port harcourt area?

flootintin:
I have power issue with my car. My battery rans down on motion and when I checked the alternator, it was working well. I notice that at night, my dashboard light is dim. Battery is just 3 months old. What could be the issue. Car is honda accord evil spirit.

shamoni85:
My 2012 Kia Cerato consumes a lot of fuel ever since it was bought in 2013, brand new as in, am the first owner straight from the factory. Catalyst is intact, exhaust is fine.
What could be the problem abi na follow come error?

Akinetdave:
Good day house. please my Toyota camry oil seal was bad and I try to get it fixed while trying to do that we realised the converter was the issue..that no matter the times I fixed the oil seal, it will still leak oil as long as the converter is bad. So I decided to change everything once but the problem now is that, after the engine and the gear has been installed back the car work has not been complete. it started shaking whenever I start it, doing slow on hills and even turn off sometimes. I told the mechanic what happened and what he said was that I should drive it very well that it will stop but it's draining a lot of fuel and I have consulted another mechanic and after working and changing the injector nuzzles and coils but it's still d same thing..

Akinetdave:
Good day house. please my Toyota camry oil seal was bad and I try to get it fixed while trying to do that we realised the converter was the issue..that no matter the times I fixed the oil seal, it will still leak oil as long as the converter is bad. So I decided to change everything once but the problem now is that, after the engine and the gear has been installed back the car work has not been complete. it started shaking whenever I start it, doing slow on hills and even turn off sometimes. I told the mechanic what happened and what he said was that I should drive it very well that it will stop but it's draining a lot of fuel and I have consulted another mechanic and after working and changing the injector nuzzles and coils but it's still d same thing..