Costee:

Test the functionality of the thermostat by immersing it in boiling water. Check whether the valve opens when hot, and closed when cold.

I've done that already, all seems well with the thermostat, as it opens and close when hot and cold respectively.

austin4real:

I've done that already, all seems well with the thermostat, as it opens and close when hot and cold respectively.

Remove the radiator and have it flushed. The condenser too may be washed over.

Costee:

Remove the radiator and have it flushed. The condenser too may be washed over.

Done all that already, dunno if there is a sensor controlling the thermo that could have gone bad

Costee:
Can you post the vin? Or we could chat it over. Call 08179381094

tried getting u on WhatsApp, no response, vin is jnkcv51e93m019289

austin4real:

Done all that already, dunno if there is a sensor controlling the thermo that could have gone bad

I think you have to give fuller details of the circumstances leading to overheating. For example, with or without A/C, A/C without the thermostat, etc. It could just be too that portions of your A/C system are bad or clogged.

amywonda:
tried getting u on WhatsApp, no response, vin is jnkcv51e93m019289

Lol. You misread me. I used the word chat in the sense of oral discussion. Anyway, I'll check the VIN and identify the vehicle we're dealing with here. Any update since last week?
Let me assume that you have bought the correct acc pedal for the car. Any part number on it?

Costee:

I think you have to give fuller details of the circumstances leading to overheating. For example, with or without A/C, A/C without the thermostat, etc. It could just be too that portions of your A/C system are bad or clogged.

Well it goes like this, once in a while the temp gauge hits the redline immediately I start the vehicle, when I then switch on the AC it returns to the halfway point, also known notice whenever the temp gauge is on the redline, the engine sounds normal, and it doesn't exhibit the traits of a car overheating... what could be wrong

austin4real:

Well it goes like this, once in a while the temp gauge hits the redline immediately I start the vehicle, when I then switch on the AC it returns to the halfway point, also known notice whenever the temp gauge is on the redline, the engine sounds normal, and it doesn't exhibit the traits of a car overheating... what could be wrong

Have you checked your cooling fans?

austin4real:

Well it goes like this, once in a while the temp gauge hits the redline immediately I start the vehicle, when I then switch on the AC it returns to the halfway point, also known notice whenever the temp gauge is on the redline, the engine sounds normal, and it doesn't exhibit the traits of a car overheating... what could be wrong

So this overheating is on your dashboard and not in your engine bay? Check you Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. Any SES light? Scan nonetheless.

Costee:

So this overheating is on your dashboard and not in your engine bay? Check you Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. Any SES light? Scan nonetheless.

Upon scanning the car, it only gave me a p0141 error code

austin4real:

Upon scanning the car, it only gave me a p0141 error code

Check the ECT sensor. Or even the temperature gauge. So long as the hot water/coolant does not bubble out from your radiator you might as well let the issue rest for now. Reinstall the thermostat so that so you don't have to continue with the direct connection between your fans and the ignition.

austin4real:

Well it goes like this, once in a while the temp gauge hits the redline immediately I start the vehicle, when I then switch on the AC it returns to the halfway point, also known notice whenever the temp gauge is on the redline, the engine sounds normal, and it doesn't exhibit the traits of a car overheating... what could be wrong

check the switch that should trigger your fan when engine temperature goes up. Your fan may not be coming up spontaneously unless ac is switched on

chukel:
check the switch that should trigger your fan when engine temperature goes up. Your fan may not be coming up spontaneously unless ac is switched on

Valid point.

chukel:
check the switch that should trigger your fan when engine temperature goes up. Your fan may not be coming up spontaneously unless ac is switched on

With the thermostat removed, the fan has been bypassed to run even when the AC is not on, so I believe the fan switch isn't the problem, (like I said earlier, sometimes when I start the vehicle, the temp gauge hits red immediately, but when I switch on the AC, It returns to the half point, it could also rise once in a while with the AC on)

I would say you have a gauge cluster problem from what you have described.

nissparts:
I would say you have a gauge cluster problem from what you have described.

Someone once told me that the temperature sensor could be the culprit, dunno how valid that is?

austin4real:

Someone once told me that the temperature sensor could be the culprit, dunno how valid that is?

If there are no visible signs of actual over-heating i would suspect the gauge cluster before the temp sensor. Also, you should have a code for the sensor in most cases if it were the culprit.

Hello house gurus please I ran a diagnostic scan on my 2006 Nissan Murano 3.5 litres SL model and pulled the following codes with these details;

P1148 Closed Loop-B1
P0328 Knock Sen / Circ-B1
P0463 Fuel Level Sen / Circ
P0031 H02S1 HTR (B1)
PO725 Engine Speed Signal
P1722 Estimate Vehicle Speed Signal
P0746 Pressure Control Soleenoid A
P1778 Step Motor Function
P0868 Secondary Pressure Down

U1000 Can Comm

C1104 FR LH Sensor-1
C1143 ST ANG SEN Circuit
C1142 Press Sen Circuit

What should I do concerning these codes as per resolution, thanks.

Hello everyone, I'm considering buying the 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL v6 from Cotonou. Is this a good investment? My other option is the 2012 Honda Accord, the price range is almost the same. Looking forward to your candid responses.

jodecibmw:
Hello house gurus please I ran a diagnostic scan on my 2006 Nissan Murano 3.5 litres SL model and pulled the following codes with these details;

P1148 Closed Loop-B1
P0328 Knock Sen / Circ-B1
P0463 Fuel Level Sen / Circ
P0031 H02S1 HTR (B1)
PO725 Engine Speed Signal
P1722 Estimate Vehicle Speed Signal
P0746 Pressure Control Soleenoid A
P1778 Step Motor Function
P0868 Secondary Pressure Down

U1000 Can Comm

C1104 FR LH Sensor-1
C1143 ST ANG SEN Circuit
C1142 Press Sen Circuit

What should I do concerning these codes as per resolution, thanks.

See https://www.nairaland.com/893149/fix-nissan-murano-transmission-issues#34371220

shangy:
Hello everyone, I'm considering buying the 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL v6 from Cotonou. Is this a good investment? My other option is the 2012 Honda Accord, the price range is almost the same. Looking forward to your candid responses.

Altima2.5 is an i4 engine not v6. 2013 Altima outclasses the accord 2013 in performance and styling with more mpg self not to talk of a 2012 accord. You might have a problem with the spares and technical know-how compared to the accord. The Cvt might be another setback. I'm using the altima 2008 presently and its a good car, would upgrade to a 2014 model or Ford.

Hi Guys, I have a 2001 Nissan Skyline 250 GT(VQ25DD engine), for some time now I have been having a series of problems with it. The complaints started with the oxygen sensors and the car was giving off black smoke with a weird smell and of course a higher fuel consumption. Then it started loosing compression and jerking, I would have to turn it off and on a few times before it runs smooth.

I bought 2 brand new Genuine Nissan oxygen sensors, but still got the reading from the scanner saying the sensors were bad, along with the check light coming back on after the trouble was cleared. After tracing the electrical feed of the O2 sensors back to the ECU, we discovered that the ECU was sending no current to the sensors, also the car started to give a complaint that the crankshaft sensor was bad, again I got a Genuine Nissan replacement, then it said the right camshaft sensor is bad. I then got a Genuine Nissan replacement for that as well, it then said the left camshaft sensor is bad, again I got a Genuine Nissan replacement along with a new ECU and the car is still acting the same way, except that the O2 sensor complaint is now gone, but the compression issue with very little acceleration is still there ( the car cant rev above 1500 RPMs or it starts to jerk) , however when we remove the right camshaft sensor the engine runs a lot smoother at a very high rev and is gaining compression. I am at my wits end with this car, could you help? Really frustrated!

This is the list of parts changed thus far
Frame Number: BLGARHAV35DDA-A
Crankshaft Sensor: 23731AL605
L Camshaft Sensor: 23731AL622
R Camshaft Sensor: 23731AL616
Oxygen Sensor: 22690AL600
ECU: 23710AL500
Attach is the car info plate

Good Evening House.
Please I would be glad if someone here would help me out with the issue I am facing with my Nissan Xtrail 2000 Model.
It refuses to start after being driven for a while. Untill it "cools" for about 30 mins. 2 weeks ago, it stopped starting altogether. The engine cranks but wont start. I had it scanned and got a U1000 message.
I do not have accurate knowledge of previous issues with the car because it belonged to my late dad.
While changing the oil some months ago, the mechanic noticed that the oil had a creamy color in the top cylinder. He said the top gasket was leaking and letting water into the oil. I had the top cylinder changed when the car was grounded.
The vehicle usually had the non-start issue but there was a fix for that. Dad had a wire connected directly from the kick starter that could be placed on the battery terminal and the car would come to life. But now, that doesnt even work.
Some of the electricians that have looked at the vehicle said the ECU (brainbox) was the problem. I bought another but the car still wont start. The ECU that was in the vehicle when bought isnt the branded Xtrail ECU. The connections there had been worked on before. So the new ECU didnt require any programming.
Some pointed at the crank and cam sensors. I had those changed but still no start.
I have changed all the plugs in the car (4 cylinder). No change
Changed the fuel pump. No change

Please has anyone experienced this before?
Is there a fix for it.
Please help. I really need that vehicle to run my business

shilohboy:
Good Evening House.
Please I would be glad if someone here would help me out with the issue I am facing with my Nissan Xtrail 2000 Model.
It refuses to start after being driven for a while. Untill it "cools" for about 30 mins. 2 weeks ago, it stopped starting altogether. The engine cranks but wont start. I had it scanned and got a U1000 message.
I do not have accurate knowledge of previous issues with the car because it belonged to my late dad.
While changing the oil some months ago, the mechanic noticed that the oil had a creamy color in the top cylinder. He said the top gasket was leaking and letting water into the oil. I had the top cylinder changed when the car was grounded.
The vehicle usually had the non-start issue but there was a fix for that. Dad had a wire connected directly from the kick starter that could be placed on the battery terminal and the car would come to life. But now, that doesnt even work.
Some of the electricians that have looked at the vehicle said the ECU (brainbox) was the problem. I bought another but the car still wont start. The ECU that was in the vehicle when bought isnt the branded Xtrail ECU. The connections there had been worked on before. So the new ECU didnt require any programming.
Some pointed at the crank and cam sensors. I had those changed but still no start.
I have changed all the plugs in the car (4 cylinder). No change
Changed the fuel pump. No change

Please has anyone experienced this before?
Is there a fix for it.
Please help. I really need that vehicle to run my business

There is nothing like branded xtrail ECU. If that car has ecu problems, pm let's resolve it ASAP.

progressive2016:
I got a Genuine Nissan replacement along with a new ECU
Attach is the car info plate

Please, what do you mean by new ECU? Are you talking of brand new or toks?

ping2ping:
Hello. I know this will be the best thread to get answer to this question.

I'm considering 2000 Nissan Primera Estate 1.8L engine or 2000 Nissan Almera Tino 1.8L engine.

Did you eventually buy the Tino? I need some help with mine. I have questions

Hello Guys,

I am driving a nissan murano 2004, i recently replaced the ECU ECM, the problem now is the injectors are not spraying fuel....my technician says it is from the ECU ECM....and considering the price for another brain box, i wish to know from experienced members on this forum advice the way forward. i will appreciate contributions....Thanks

coolerems:
Hello Guys,

I am driving a nissan murano 2004, i recently replaced the ECU ECM, the problem now is the injectors are not spraying fuel....my technician says it is from the ECU ECM....and considering the price for another brain box, i wish to know from experienced members on this forum advice the way forward. i will appreciate contributions....Thanks

why did you replace the ECU in the 1st place? were the nozzles spraying initially, when you replaced the ECU? have you checked for continuity to the injector nozzles from the ECU? changing an ECU should always be a last resort!

i drove in my self to do some checks because d cars vibrates at 60MPS, d mechanic checked one of d coils to see, all of a sudden we saw light smoke from d coil socket, he insulated d naked wire and asked me start d car, it started. he went to attend to another car while i waited. upon his return, he asked me to start again, dis time d car refused to start, after so many days i requested for a scan, the result was NO ERROR MESSAGE.
At this point battery light and check engine soon light has stopped coming on. the conclusion was that i should get a new ECU ECM. due to its price from local market, i opted to get it from Amazon un-programmed. upon its arrival in January, i changed all the coils because they confirmed bad, but after installation and programming, the injectors ain't spraying so the can't start except fuel is manually introduced.

Nissan is crazy.Are you sure you got the right ecu with part number.

Where are you based?

Yes i got the right part number, am based in Port Harcourt

coolerems:
Yes i got the right part number, am based in Port Harcourt

I could suggest someone to you in woji if you don't mind.