SmartchoicesNG:
This is 4 A.M go for morning prayers.

Meanwhile have you checked for spark and fuel supply?

pragmatistm:
My Nissan primera P11-144 is not starting for two days now. The battery and kick starter are OK. We changed plugs and it keeps making starting/rolling noise but not starting. Please help.

honmusa:

Check timing!!!Especially if your engine is QG18de ,that engine suffers stretch timing chain after some considerable mileage.Did your engine exhibit rattle noice previously to this issue??

nurey:
I would not bother checking timing, fuel pump, injectors, brain box or spark plug, your first point of call should be those two stupid crankshaft and camshaft sensor check their wires well well, test for continuity while rolling, those plastic metallic thing can frustrate your life.

It's one of the reason I stayed clear of Nissan

honmusa:

Check timing!!!Especially if your engine is QG18de ,that engine suffers stretch timing chain after some considerable mileage.Did your engine exhibit rattle noice previously to this issue??

nurey:
I would not bother checking timing, fuel pump, injectors, brain box or spark plug, your first point of call should be those two stupid crankshaft and camshaft sensor check their wires well well, test for continuity while rolling, those plastic metallic thing can frustrate your life.

It's one of the reason I stayed clear of Nissan

GAZZUZZ:

* spark
* fuel supply
* compression
* air supply
* all in the right order (timing)

What is missing?

nurey:
your first point of call should be those two stupid crankshaft and camshaft sensor check their wires well well, test for continuity while rolling, those plastic metallic thing can frustrate your life.

Costee:

Trust me, the OP's engine, which is SR20DE does not suffer from these disabilities .As a matter of fact the cam sensor is not the conventional type but a disc integrated into the distributor assembly. Yes, the OP could check his timing if he has troubled things in that area.

pragmatistm:
My Nissan primera P11-144 is not starting for two days now. The battery and kick starter are OK. We changed plugs and it keeps making starting/rolling noise but not starting.

The only thing is that few days before it finally stopped to start, when parked for long or overnight and started it, there was a tututu sound which went away as I raised it. And I observed about two weeks ago that the smoke coming from the exhaust was peppering the eyes but that had stopped.
Please help.

pragmatistm:
Oga costee, please any insight.

I didn't do any recent work on the engine. The last work was servicing and that was about six months now. So I didn't trouble anything.

pragmatistm:
The engine is SR20DE 2.0

There was no rattle noise. The only thing is that few days before it finally stopped to start, when parked for long or overnight and started it, there was a tututu sound which went away as I raised it.

GAZZUZZ:


possibly build up of carbon in valve area. Loss of compression. Re-check compression

Costee:

Since you don't seem to be talking about any codes, I'd settle for the ignition coil, i.e., the distributor assembly sans the distributor cap and rotor head.

pragmatistm:
Thanks sir. But what is the ignition coil?
We will check that area also.

nurey:


Since the engine you using design is different from the others, I guess the cam and crank sensor is OK.

The ignition coil is that long tube you plug after screwing the spark plugs. Since you didn't notice misfire, hard starting and the engine wasn't opened, I guess you can rule out timing, also i[b]f you noticed metal shavings while change oil, your timing chain has stretched. [/b]

I hope you have checked all fuses. I would also go with the compression stuff, since it would rule out a lot of possibilities.

nurey:


Since the engine you using design is different from the others, I guess the cam and crank sensor is OK.

The ignition coil is that long tube you plug after screwing the spark plugs. Since you didn't notice misfire, hard starting and the engine wasn't opened, I guess you can rule out timing, also if you noticed metal shavings while change oil, your timing chain has stretched.

I hope you have checked all fuses. I would also go with the compression stuff, since it would rule out a lot of possibilities.

GAZZUZZ:


with all due respect sir, not very true sir.

nurey:


With all due respect sir, it's one of the symptoms sir , not the only symptoms

GAZZUZZ:


chain on gear, nothing chips. It's long term wear you will not see a thing in the oil. Stop arguing

nurey:


Since the engine you using design is different from the others, I guess the cam and crank sensor is OK.

The ignition coil is that long tube you plug after screwing the spark plugs. Since you didn't notice misfire, hard starting and the engine wasn't opened, I guess you can rule out timing, also if you noticed metal shavings while change oil, your timing chain has stretched.

I hope you have checked all fuses. I would also go with the compression stuff, since it would rule out a lot of possibilities.

pragmatistm:
Thanks sir. But what is the ignition coil?
We will check that area also.

Costee:

Right before your very eyes to the right-hand side of the engine block. The cap of the unit that takes four cables to the plugs. Oil can gradually find its way into the unit if the seal shielding it from the engine wears down. Oil in the coil simply incapacitates it. Your unit has two connectors. The larger one with six pins (#1-#6) is for the camshaft sensor and power transistor; and the smaller one with two pins (seven & eight) is for the ignition coil. If you have a good rewire the integrity of the unit can easily be determined by checking for continuity between the two pins for the ignition coil. Resistance can also be tested between terminal #5 in the power transistor harness connector and terminal #7 in the harness connector for the ignition coil. If negative results are returned for either or both that might just be your culprit.
Yes, a compression test should do no harm, hoping you could have immediate access to that at your location. The maximum required for any of the cylinders is 185 psi and a minimum of 156 psi, with a maximum of 14psi allowed for variation between cylinders.

timifakay:
Looking through your profile, I see you had same problem sometime in 2014. How did you solve it back then?
You need a compression test kit for the compression test. It comprises of pressure guage and fitters for the engine, please carry out a scan as well.

pragmatistm:
Thanks sir. I seriouslysuspect the distributor cap because I have noticed much oil around that place.

But who does the compression test?

honmusa:

why suspecting distribution again when u have earlier stated that you have a spark.
For the compression test ,where are you located??

Costee:

Fine query. Saw that too. But I discern some diffidence in the OP that makes me take his evidence with a pinch of salt.