₦airaland Forum

adrusa:
The Pi I use for my Victron products is rock solid. More dependable than my Outback Mate 3s. I use vitron oem cables though. I once used the prolific cables and while it worked, it was distorting my current draw.

My logs are fine from the victron/BMV cable. Distortion of your current draw is the exact issue I have with the prolific because the data is not consistent to the pi for proper logging.

I just hope I can either get a USB to serial or hope for my GK to come alive soon so I can use the USB port for Comms instead of getting locked to a serial port as is the case with felicity.

eleojo23:
Most people on this thread will have to learn lithium from scratch since everyone seems to be facing that direction, myself inclusive.

No one is an Island of knowledge Bro, I believe we are all learning. I certainly have learnt a lot from this thread

ojeysky:
I think same can be said for lead acid, you can't get up to a thousand circle at 50% DoD. So I think a fair equivalent will be a 80% DoD of 200Ah lithium and 30% DoD of 400 Ah lead acid. Even at that circle wise a lead acid will have died when a Lifepo4 is just getting to its 80% usable capacity.



Agree but really this is why folks need to have a way of monitoring their lithium cells, it's as simple as that. However lithium cells are usually rated below their capacity, so a 100Ah is actually 105 or 110Ah to give room for 100% discharge at 100Ah without negative impact on the battery.



While I agree with the above, I think it addresses just a scenario in the emergency use cases. Here are a few more:

1. A lithium will have been recharged and used at least twice while a lead acid is still going through her first round of charging. Imagine you have electricity/solar only for a few hours and you have the juice to charge your battery but you are limited to 0.1C (or max 0.2c) on lead acid

2. A lithium handles current surge better in an emergency/normal situation than lead acid. My washing machine does a 2kw surge, this normally trips my former 300Ah lead acid, but the story is different using my current 200Ah Lifepo4

3. We also need to recognize that the occasional below 50% DoD on lead may actually cost 3x or more in overall circle life.

Overall I would still agree that it's a good thing not to get exactly 200Ah lithium just that my reasons and motivation for that is different.

Surge handling with stable voltage -Lithium wins.

Thanks for the response! I'll go with this.

I'll appreciate if you can help suggest the specification of the the standalone inverter and also specification of the charge controller. Currently I have an 80watts solar panel, how many more panels(watts) do I need to add.

Once again thanks for the response.

mctfopt:
Standalone inverter and solar charge controller is solely dependent on your choice. Both can work with either public power supply or solar.

So, whichever you decide to buy is solely dependent on you. Welcome to the club

Thanks, mctfopt explained above. Will chat you up. Regards

unicmarket:
Please can you clarify your question?

2 150ah battery ( auction, you mean— used?

Do you mean you have an Hybrid Inverter?

And if this is what you mean,

It’s not usually correct to measure a used battery back up time; why simply because we may be able to tell it’s efficiency but I will state it’s ideal
Back up time for a five numbers of a 30watts fan
Which is 150watts

About 23-24hrs backup if battery is new and good

If you have lower than than this, it must mean your battery efficiency is reduced already



www.jekitech.com
08031138665 whatsapp or call

This Lead Acid vs Lithium debate will never die it seems - the big issue I see is flexing all assumptions and not holding things constant. I still believe that in practical usage, a 48V 400AH Lead Acid Bank at 50% DoD is about equivalent to a 48v 250AH Lithium bank at 80% DoD.

ojeysky:
I think same can be said for lead acid, you can't get up to a thousand circle at 50% DoD. So I think a fair equivalent will be a 80% DoD of 200Ah lithium and 30% DoD of 400 Ah lead acid. Even at that circle wise a lead acid will have died when a Lifepo4 is just getting to its 80% usable capacity.

The Rolls Surrette have Lead Acid rated at 1,250 cycles at 50% DoD, and a quite a few other premium battery makers also post similar specs. People keep comparing the cheap asian crap that comes to Nigeria in the name of Lead Acid to solid offerings for Lithium and make it seem Lead Acid is a terrible idea

ojeysky:
Agree but really this is why folks need to have a way of monitoring their lithium cells, it's as simple as that. However lithium cells are usually rated below their capacity, so a 100Ah is actually 105 or 110Ah to give room for 100% discharge at 100Ah without negative impact on the battery.

I will use an example I am familiar with - PylonTech US2000 post a 45v to 53.5v working range - at 90% DoD, my battery is still around/above 47.5v. This leads me to one of two conclusions - battery is oversized vs. the quoted spec or there is a sharp voltage decline after 90% DoD - because I know of the inevitable chemical decay at low voltages for Lithium, I won't try to find out what happens after 90% DoD.

Also, although I have never let this happen, if the BMS LVD kicks in, it means a rude loss of power to a 15KvA Inverter, 4 MPPTs, a GX device e.t.c all these are pricey Victron products that I want to baby - the inverter will not come on if the GX does not come on first and the GX will not come on without battery - only with a complicated disconnect from GX, apply mains to inverter e.t.c will the system power back up and oh the health reading on the BMS will reduce by a % after this failure event.

Now for a customer installation, this scenario where the BMS LVD cutoff is invoked is untenable - it is the inverter that needs to shutdown gracefully well before the Lithium battery is pushed to the brink.

ojeysky:
While I agree with the above, I think it addresses just a scenario in the emergency use cases. Here are a few more:

1. A lithium will have been recharged and used at least twice while a lead acid is still going through her first round of charging. Imagine you have electricity/solar only for a few hours and you have the juice to charge your battery but you are limited to 0.1C (or max 0.2c) on lead acid

2. A lithium handles current surge better in an emergency/normal situation than lead acid. My washing machine does a 2kw surge, this normally trips my former 300Ah lead acid, but the story is different using my current 200Ah Lifepo4

3. We also need to recognize that the occasional below 50% DoD on lead may actually cost 3x or more in overall circle life.

# 1 above assumes you have a charging source that can put out that much power for a super fast charge, you could similarly apply same charge source to an AGM battery bank with no ill effects

# 2 above - Here it was not the battery bank tripping but the inverter probably based on the set LVD - you can easily take Lead Acid to 10.5v and still get juice out if you set your inverter properly - I feel you upgraded inverters same time as your Lithium battery upgrade and you are crediting all the improvements to only the Lithium batteries forgetting the impact of the inverter and it's settings on the system.

# 3 above - I strongly doubt if it is true for a good quality lead acid battery - people routinely go below 50% for short periods with little negative impact on battery life

ojeysky:
Overall I would still agree that it's a good thing not to get exactly 200Ah lithium just that my reasons and motivation for that is different.

Here we are in agreement - 48v 400Ah of Lead Acid will need more than 48V 200Ah Lithium as drop in replacement - my number is more like 48V 250AH of Lithium - classic example of different basis but arriving at thesame results.

Lead acid is still a great choice especially if you can afford the premium brands - surely Lithium wins in the long run but only with careful use to make it to the promised life span. Most people simply cannot afford the upfront cost for the size of Lithium battery bank that would give them full autonomy and the exact same Watt Hour capacity as Lead Acid hence they settle for "equivalent performance"

The number to call/WhatsApp is 08168986461.


Stay safe, and happy Easter to y’all in advance.

hey guys, Nepa has been giving us 247 light since the last 3 days, I want to put off solar charging so it won’t over charge the battery because I’ve not used inverter in about 3 days

Or should I leave the solar panels to continue charging the battery, because I believe the battery must have been full and even over charged by now

NiyiOmoIyunade:
This Lead Acid vs Lithium debate will never die it seems - the big issue I see is flexing all assumptions and not holding things constant. I still believe that in practical usage, a 48V 400AH Lead Acid Bank at 50% DoD is about equivalent to a 48v 250AH Lithium bank at 80% DoD.

Well not really, as this assumes that you won't get a 200Ah from an LFP rated 200Ah which is not the case; A 50% DoD of 400Ah lead is 200Ah and same capacity will be gotten in a good 200Ah LFP without any more negative impact to the battery than the impact to a 50% DoD lead.

The Rolls Surrette have Lead Acid rated at 1,250 cycles at 50% DoD, and a quite a few other premium battery makers also post similar specs. People keep comparing the cheap asian crap that comes to Nigeria in the name of Lead Acid to solid offerings for Lithium and make it seem Lead Acid is a terrible idea

Well yes there are premium lead batteries that do over a thousands but what is a thousand+ cycle compared to multiple thousands

I will use an example I am familiar with - PylonTech US2000 post a 45v to 53.5v working range - at 90% DoD, my battery is still around/above 47.5v. This leads me to one of two conclusions - battery is oversized vs. the quoted spec or there is a sharp voltage decline after 90% DoD - because I know of the inevitable chemical decay at low voltages for Lithium, I won't try to find out what happens after 90% DoD.

Oversizing is most likely the case as I mentioned previously. Battleborn confirm that they oversize their batteries by +10Ah. My cells are actual 210Ah. By the way, you don't need to be concerned about going to 100% because that is why the BMS is there.

Also, although I have never let this happen, if the BMS LVD kicks in, it means a rude loss of power to a 15KvA Inverter, 4 MPPTs, a GX device e.t.c all these are pricey Victron products that I want to baby - the inverter will not come on if the GX does not come on first and the GX will not come on without battery - only with a complicated disconnect from GX, apply mains to inverter e.t.c will the system power back up and oh the health reading on the BMS will reduce by a % after this failure event.

My battery BMS has tripped a couple of times and it has no negative impact on the battery capacity/BMS but yes everything going off is not something one wants to do. Just like in lead acid, if the battery flattens I don't think the inverter will have the juice from the battery to power on.

Now for a customer installation, this scenario where the BMS LVD cutoff is invoked is untenable - it is the inverter that needs to shutdown gracefully well before the Lithium battery is pushed to the brink.

Any customer that can keep up with maintenance of AGM(or flooded) should be able to manage with a good LFP that has an appropriate BMS. Personally I set my inverter cut-off voltage to 24v since LFP has very little capacity left once/if it gets to that voltage anyway. That way your inverter shuts things off before the BMS but I think you mentioned earlier than plyontech does not seem to like that?

# 1 above assumes you have a charging source that can put out that much power for a super fast charge, you could similarly apply same charge source to an AGM battery bank with no ill effects

Yes and I did note that as well; using the premium battery you earlier indicated, the official recommended charge is .2C with max .3C but with most LFP, normal charge is 0.5C with 1C max and some builds even claim more than that without issues (though I won't personally try that on my batteries)

# 2 above - Here it was not the battery bank tripping but the inverter probably based on the set LVD - you can easily take Lead Acid to 10.5v and still get juice out if you set your inverter properly - I feel you upgraded inverters same time as your Lithium battery upgrade and you are crediting all the improvements to only the Lithium batteries forgetting the impact of the inverter and it's settings on the system.

Nope it's the same inverter am using and yes I could have reduced the cut-off but how will a customer feel if he has to always do that since leaving it permanently at that voltage is disaster in the making.

# 3 above - I strongly doubt if it is true for a good quality lead acid battery - people routinely go below 50% for short periods with little negative impact on battery life

I wasn't referring to short periods as the LFP DoD consideration was not for short periods.

Here we are in agreement - 48v 400Ah of Lead Acid will need more than 48V 200Ah Lithium as drop in replacement - my number is more like 48V 250AH of Lithium - classic example of different basis but arriving at thesame results.

Lead acid is still a great choice especially if you can afford the premium brands - surely Lithium wins in the long run but only with careful use to make it to the promised life span. Most people simply cannot afford the upfront cost for the size of Lithium battery bank that would give them full autonomy and the exact same Watt Hour capacity as Lead Acid hence they settle for "equivalent performance"

Though I personally don't think the price point is an issue anymore unless folks wants the LFP with bells and whistles (which by the way don't exist on normal leads) but I think we can agree that one man's food is another man poison no matter the aroma of the food

Good evening house, I want to ask between the two diagrams what is the best way of connecting battery bank in a series-parallel connection

This is one of those situations where one of us has to stop so that the matter can rest

I will clarify one thing though - the PylonTech is a smart (managed) battery and in the Victron world, the Pylon stack basically plugs into a GX device and begins to actively control the entire system (Inverters and CCs) through the GX.

A loss of power scenario where the BMS cuts power to the GX is undesirable and extremely inelegant as the system is now operating 'out of control' - people have used a smaller bank in parallel to power on the GX and restore control but also poor design in my book.

Imagine me running 7kw of loads off the battery and my inverter has its power source (battery) rudely interrupted... the elegant solution is for the inverter to cleanly shuf off power ahead of the BMS cutting off and then inverter can smoothly restore power when voltage conditions are right.

Time will tell the results of regular 100% DoD on a Lithium pack's lifespan since you seem to believe your batteries are invincible - PylonTech is ~6,000 cycles at 80% DoD, I think (not sure) the number reduces to ~2,000 cycles at 100% DoD - see for yourself what is to be gained/lost trying to use that last 20% of the battery.

Remember also the specs are STC at 25°C. You must already derate the promised battery lifespan for a much higher ambient in Nigeria - all the more reason to baby the battery and stay within 80% DoD.

If you check b a t t e r y t e s t c e n t er dot com dot au, you will see quickly that all the Lithium batteries tested incl BYD, SimpliPhi e.t.c showed significantly reduced capacity when run under harsh test conditions (super fast charge and ultra deep discharge cycles, 3 times per day). BYD lost 40% capacity over 3 years and PylonTech about 15%. Some Lithium died altogether - I would be rudely shocked if no name asian LFP cells slapped together with generic BMS in unstandard conditions here in Naija outperformed BYD and SimpliPhi and PylonTech.

ojeysky:
Well not really, as this assumes that you won't get a 200Ah from an LFP rated 200Ah which is not the case; A 50% DoD of lead is 200Ah and same capacity will be gotten in a good 200Ah LFP without any more negative impact to the battery than the impact to a 50% DoD lead.



Well yes there are premium lead batteries that do over a thousands but what is a thousand+ cycle compared to multiple thousands



Oversizing is most likely the case as I mentioned previously. Battleborn confirm that they oversize their batteries by +10Ah. My cells are actual 210Ah. By the way, you don't need to be concerned about going to 100% because that is why the BMS is there.



My battery BMS has tripped a couple of times and it has no negative impact on the battery capacity /BMS but yes everything going off is not something one wants to do. Just like in lead acid, if the battery flattens I don't think the inverter will have the juice from the battery to power on.



Any customer that can keep up with maintenance of AGM(or flooded) should be able to manage with a good LFP that has an appropriate BMS. Personally I set my inverter cut-off voltage to 24v since LFP has very little capacity left once/if it gets to that voltage anyway. That way your inverter shuts things off before the BMS but I think you mentioned earlier than plyontech does not seem to like that?


Yes and I did note that as well; using the premium battery you earlier indicated, the official recommended charge is .2C with max .3C but with most LFP, normal charge is 0.5C with 1C max and some builds even claim more than that without issues (though I won't personally try that on my batteries)


Nope it's the same inverter am using and yes I could have reduced the cut-off but how will a customer feel if he has to always do that since leaving it permanently at that voltage is disaster in the making

NiyiOmoIyunade:
This is one of those situations where one of us has to stop so that the matter can rest

I will clarify one thing though - the PylonTech is a smart (managed) battery and in the Victron world, the Pylon stack basically plugs into a GX device and begins to actively control the entire system (Inverters and CCs) through the GX.

A loss of power scenario where the BMS cuts power to the GX is undesirable and extremely inelegant as the system is now operating 'out of control' - people have used a smaller bank in parallel to power on the GX and restore control but also poor design in my book.

Imagine me running 7kw of loads off the battery and my inverter has its power source (battery) rudely interrupted... the elegant solution is for the inverter to cleanly shuf off power ahead of the BMS cutting off and then inverter can smoothly restore power when voltage conditions are right.

Time will tell the results of regular 100% DoD on a Lithium pack's lifespan since you seem to believe your batteries are invincible - PylonTech is ~6,000 cycles at 80% DoD, I think (not sure) the number reduces to ~2,000 cycles at 100% DoD - see for yourself what is to be gained/lost trying to use that last 20% of the battery.

Remember also the specs are STC at 25°C. You must already derate the promised battery lifespan for a much higher ambient in Nigeria - all the more reason to baby the battery and stay within 80% DoD.

If you check b a t t e r y t e s t c e n t er dot com dot au, you will see quickly that all the Lithium batteries tested incl BYD, SimpliPhi e.t.c showed significantly reduced capacity when run under harsh test conditions (super fast charge and ultra deep discharge cycles, 3 times per day). BYD lost 40% capacity over 3 years and PylonTech about 15%. Some Lithium died altogether - I would be rudely shocked if no name asian LFP cells slapped together with generic BMS in unstandard conditions here in Naija outperformed BYD and SimpliPhi and PylonTech.

Actually i think we may be talking past one another as I don't think we are actually in significant disagreement as such. Here is what I reduce:

1. I had the impression in your previous post that some disaster will happen to the battery if the battery BMS tripped and I stated that should not be the case. You've now indicated you are more concerned about the entire system which is absolutely understandable.

2. The issue of reduced cycle at consistent and harsh 100% DoD is not what I disagree with. However what I am saying is that LFP will still have a life after such conditions than a lead acid at 50% DoD and you've also confirmed that with the 2k cycle stats above.

3. Shall we also subject the topmost tier lead acid to charging at fast rate with extreme discharge to 50% 3x daily with same environmental condition and let's see if it will get near to the performance and a life span of more than 3 years. We should also check the usable capacity left on both batteries after the 3 years as I am almost certain that the LFP will still have more juice left then the lead acid.

4. I did not claim my LFP is rock solid than yours[1] as that will be out of scope of the subject matter, besides I have not used a plyontech so have no first experience comparative data. That said, my focus was rather on doing the performance comparison with a good LFP since we are also using one of the best lead acid figures for comparison and indeed plyontech strikes me as a good one to use.

Cheers Bro
1. Infact your pylontech will likely out-live my cells since the bells and whistles on yours are takes high precautions on the battery, one of which is the charge/discharge rates.

JaySterling:
hey guys, Nepa has been giving us 247 light since the last 3 days, I want to put off solar charging so it won’t over charge the battery because I’ve not used inverter in about 3 days

Or should I leave the solar panels to continue charging the battery, because I believe the battery must have been full and even over charged by now

If it's a smart charger there is no need to put it off, it will stop charging once it detects that battery is full so there should not be an overcharged situation. Most controllers are smart enough to stop/reduce charging when the need arises. You also need to be sure your charging source for the utility is also smart

Boss nor be fight o. Sincere apologies for any offense.

We are just on opposite sides of an issue and I am rather risk averse when it comes to system design and usage.

I was being especially careful as other people read our posts lest someone go for regular 100% DoD on his spanking new Lithium bank and be dissappointed a few years down the road.

If you read those battery test center results done in Australia it is interesting that all Lithium batteries underperformed their spec sheets significantly when harshly tested. Most new tech failed entirely e.g the Redflow battery and I think all the lead acid tested died (albeit they were not designed for three fast charges and deep discharges daily).

It was a key concern for the testers that consumers were being short changed and paying top dollar for promises the product would not live up to.

With all these, it is in the interests of everyone to baby their systems and use them within safe tolerances.

ojeysky:
Actually i think we may be talking past one another as I don't think we are actually in significant disagreement as such. Here is what I reduce:

1. I had the impression in your previous post that some disaster will happen to the battery if the battery BMS tripped and I stated that should not be the case. You've now indicated you are more concerned about the entire system which is absolutely understandable.

2. The issue of reduced cycle at consistent and harsh 100% DoD is not what I disagree with. However what I am saying is that LFP will still have a life after such conditions than a lead acid at 50% DoD and you've also confirmed that with the 2k cycle stats above.

3. Shall we also subject the topmost tier lead acid to charging at fast rate with extreme discharge to 50% 3x daily with same environmental condition and let's see if it will get near to the performance and a life span of more than 3 years. We should also check the usable capacity left on both batteries after the 3 years as I am almost certain that the LFP will still have more juice left then the lead acid.

4. I did not claim my LFP is rock solid than yours[1] as that will be out of scope of the subject matter, besides I have not used a plyontech so have no first experience comparative data. That said, my focus was rather on doing the performance comparison with a good LFP since we are also using one of the best lead acid figures for comparison and indeed plyontech strikes me as a good one to use.

Cheers Bro
1. Infact your pylontech will just likely out-live mine since the bells and whistles on yours are taking high precautions on the battery one of which is the charge/discharge rates.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Boss nor be fight o. Sincere apologies for any offense.

We are just on opposite sides of an issue and I am rather risk averse when it comes to system design and usage.

I was being especially careful as other people read our posts lest someone go for regular 100% DoD on his spanking new Lithium bank and be dissappointed a few years down the road.

If you read those battery test center results done in Australia it is interesting that all Lithium batteries underperformed their spec sheets significantly when harshly tested. Most new tech failed entirely e.g the Redflow battery and I think all the lead acid tested died (albeit they were not designed for three fast charges and deep discharges daily).

It was a key concern for the testers that consumers were being short changed and paying top dollar for promises the product would not live up to.

With all these, it is in the interests of everyone to baby their systems and use them within safe tolerances.

I believe that the fast discharges, deep discharges and fast recharges of any battery 3 times daily is clearly an abuse of the battery. Whatever performance you get in those conditions is a bonus in my humble opinion. Those tests are basically meaningless as no reasonable person will use their batteries under those conditions.

As to the appropriate DoD for those spanking LifePO4 batteries, every individual will have to do their calculations and decide on what they want. If 20% DoD will give you 12,000 cycles and 80% DoD may give you 4000, you will have to work out the maths and see which one makes economic sense for your use case.

I set up my lithium for up to 50% DoD on a regular basis, but up to 80-90% in extreme cases when I'm pressed.

The Australian battery testers were constrained by the difficulty of testing a long lived battery! How do you test a battery that should do over 10 years when no one has 10 years to wait for the results?

So in 1 year they tried to get 3 years worth of results by charging and draining the batteries 3 times per day in a climate controlled room measuring how much power went in and how much power the battery could give out (capacity) per time before it concked. Graphing the data yielded a sort of decline curve and these "3 year" results could then be extrapolated over the rest of the battery life.

It makes for a really interesting read and I would paste the link but the antispam bot nor go gree.

I like your DoD decision - ensures you reach and perhaps even exceed the promised life span of your battery.

adrusa:
I believe that the fast discharges, deep discharges and fast recharges of any battery 3 times daily is clearly an abuse of the battery. Whatever performance you get in those conditions is a bonus in my humble opinion. Those tests are basically meaningless as no reasonable person will use their batteries under those conditions.

As to the appropriate DoD for those spanking LifePO4 batteries, every individual will have to do their calculations and decide on what they want. If 20% DoD will give you 12,000 cycles and 80% DoD may give you 4000, you will have to work out the maths and see which one makes economic sense for your use case.

I set up my lithium for up to 50% DoD on a regular basis, but up to 80-90% in extreme cases when I'm pressed.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Boss nor be fight o. Sincere apologies for any offense.

We are just on opposite sides of an issue and I am rather risk averse when it comes to system design and usage.

Fight kee, I didn't feel offended at all hence no apologies is due as I infact enjoy the interaction and trust me I have learnt a lot from folks here including yourself. Hopefully the little I have also contributed to this thread has been useful for at least 1 person.

I don't think we are significantly in opposite directions, I didn't say consistent 100% DoD of lithium is a good thing as I don't do that in real life scenario, I believe we were just comparing a scenario of 100% DoD of lithium[1] with a 50% DoD of lead acid

I tend to the school of thought that a lithium will still have a life more than the lead acid after the process. I don't think you agree with that so yes that is just the only place we disagree which is fine.

Cheers
1. Let's not forget that 100% here means getting 200Ah and stopping which does not mean battery is already flat. Like I said earlier serious lithium companies do over rate their batteries with +5 to 10% capacity to allow you get full 200Ah.

adrusa:
.

I set up my lithium for up to 50% DoD on a regular basis, but up to 80-90% in extreme cases when I'm pressed.

This is similar to what I use as well, for the 50% DoD am not able to achieve that with my inverter which has a max cut-off of 24v hence I recently started using my BMV to make the 50% alarm.

Can one mix Lithium from different brands: say pylontech with other China brands?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
The Australian battery testers were constrained by the difficulty of testing a long lived battery! How do you test a battery that should do over 10 years when no one has 10 years to wait for the results?

So in 1 year they tried to get 3 years worth of results by charging and draining the batteries 3 times per day in a climate controlled room measuring how much power went in and how much power the battery could give out (capacity) per time before it concked. Graphing the data yielded a sort of decline curve and these "3 year" results could then be extrapolated over the rest of the battery life.

It makes for a really interesting read and I would paste the link but the antispam bot nor go gree.

I like your DoD decision - ensures you reach and perhaps even exceed the promised life span of your battery.

@bolded, when will black africa get to this level??

We have not had light in our Area in the last 24 hours

My inverter just tripped off due to low battery

Meanwhile, my 2 Zedix batteries are fully charged, because solar charged them in the afternoon.

Now my inverter is off, and I’m in darkness, with 2 full Zedix batteries

This inverter/solar stuff doesn’t make sense

Please, what’s the solution to this ?

JaySterling:
We have not had light in our Area in the last 24 hours

My inverter just tripped off due to low battery

Meanwhile, my 2 Zedix batteries are fully charged, because solar charged them in the afternoon.

Now my inverter is off, and I’m in darkness, with 2 full Zedix batteries

This inverter/solar stuff doesn’t make sense

Please, what’s the solution to this ?

You mean ur batteries are not connected to ur inverter? Please I don't get you. Why will ur inverter be off if u have batteries that are full ? I had an issue with my light (NEPA),for close to 2months now,but since I am on solar,I still enjoy light and have not bothered to fix the issue with NEPA.
You may have to call ur installer to check ur connections.

JaySterling:
We have not had light in our Area in the last 24 hours

My inverter just tripped off due to low battery

Meanwhile, my 2 Zedix batteries are fully charged, because solar charged them in the afternoon.

Now my inverter is off, and I’m in darkness, with 2 full Zedix batteries

This inverter/solar stuff doesn’t make sense

Please, what’s the solution to this ?

One of the things no one will tell you especially Nigerian installers is you have to over size your system to take care of redundancies and inefficiencies.

Over sizing systems cost money and once told people run away from it when told the cost. But from your explanation, if your batteries are good and new then your system is actually under-sized. You need to work on it.

Also, it's bad running your batteries till they turn off. Kills them faster. Try 50% always mentioned here for Lead Acid batteries. With that sha your inverter for don off since afternoon

Cheny:
You mean ur batteries are not connected to ur inverter? Please I don't get you. Why will ur inverter be off if u have batteries that are full ? I had an issue with my light (NEPA),for close to 2months now,but since I am on solar,I still enjoy light and have not bothered to fix the issue with NEPA.
You may have to call ur installer to check ur connections.

So the solar also charges your inverter ?

I thought all inverters has inbuilt batteries that can only be charged by Nepa light

He took away our filth, guilt, shame, and sin when He gave His life for us. And in return He gave us life everlasting. Hallelujah, our saviour has risen. May all the good things associated with Easter be found in you and your family. HAPPY EASTER.


Manuel Solar Energy Enterprises �

JaySterling:
So the solar also charges your inverter ?

I thought all inverters has inbuilt batteries that can only be charged by Nepa light

What is charged is the battery. The source of charging can either be solar or through AC (NEPA) or other sources like wind. Most inverters comes with inbuilt chargers, inverters don't have batteries in then, you buy the battery separately.

ojeysky:
What is charged is the battery. The source of charging can either be solar or through AC (NEPA) or other sources like wind. Most inverters comes with inbuilt chargers, inverters don't have batteries in then, you buy the battery separately.

But my inverter, a microtek 2.3 kva was beeping red light and saying low battery yesterday night

But my Zedix battery must have not been low, because solar charged it in the morning afternoon

So why was it beeping low battery ?

Hmmmmmm boss.

Please think of your batteries as a tank of water of which you have only one tank.

The tank water level is the amount of charge in the batteries.

If the amount of water leaving the tank is higher than that the rate of filling the tank, then the tank of water (battery) will go empty and can no longer supply water.

The amount of water leaving the tank is what your house loads/appliances are consuming.

The amount of solar panels and/or the available PHCN hours taken with your inverter charge capability is the fill rate of the tank.

In your case the fill rate is very likely lower than your consumption so your water tank is not getting full leaving you stranded at the end of the day.

You really must get some basic knowledge of your back up power system otherwise installers will be using you to eat - there are many more charlatans than honest professionals so the odds are stacked against you if you do not arm yourself with knowledge.

If I were to continue the analogy, your solar panels and/or charge controller are undersized or not optimally deployed to meet your needs - this is why you see some houses with just 4 panels on their roof while the next house has 24 panels mounted - varying needs!!!! - it is not just enough to have solar panels mounted - are they of sufficient quantity and capacity If you have just 4 panels where your house needed 12 panels, you will come up very short!!!

I fear I preach too much, I will let a better qualified member of the house give you specific actionable steps.

JaySterling:
But my inverter, a microtek 2.3 kva was beeping red light and saying low battery yesterday night

But my Zedix battery must have not been low, because solar charged it in the morning afternoon

So why was it beeping low battery ?