DIARY OF A TAILOR TO BE

Chapter 1

SEARCH AND FIND

it was a hot afternoon and I am tired, seeing the large sign board in the front gave me hope, I know this might be the last place I will check before the evening runs out, it was almost four and I will have to get back home very soon before I am declared lost, I trust my mother for that, I had been out of the house as early as seven!

What was I even looking for? To my mum, I was busy looking for job, she want me to get one as quickly as possible and had even told all her friends about me, everyone keep promising they would be on the lookout for me, but nothing seem forthcoming! It was not funny at all.

Sometimes I feel probably the plan was not get a job. It was not easy staying at home all day especially when my cousins who were behind me in school then are already working and some has cars! I know how mummy feels when they asked her about me! In fact I pity that poor woman, my dad does not really care about the rush, all that matters to him is that you are fine, in fact he sent pocket money for the month into my account the day before and even pretended he didn’t to my mum, it is our secret, I know she would feel so bad when she get to know.

Every parents want their children to go to school, be the top of their class, graduate, find a job (a very lucrative one), get married in that order, some parents even want more, graduate, get a master degree or even an MBA, get a million dollar job, get married to the prince charming, join the big leagues, have the kids and be the talk of the town, well that is what my mum wanted! It was her dream for all of us, Dad provide the money and as an obedient daughter that I am, I did all that… surprise? I am a graduate of economics from that almighty University! I went back for my MBA! I graduated, did my ICEN! So you can call me a chartered Economist! And that was two years ago!

“How come you aren’t employed? Was what everyone do ask of me!

The story is just like that of every other youths who was unemployed, some employers told us we are over qualified and some offer us a salary that would make us cry, believe me, I cried sometimes after interview! The top companies wont employ us without any links, you have to know someone to bring you in, not even when you graduate with the first class from Harvard!

“Take it dear!” my mum would say but I know I won’t, so I never take any and the pressure keep increasing.

“You have to start something with your life.” My mum said to me the several days before and I realized, she is right. I think about it all night wondering what to do, then an idea stuck me early that morning, become the boss!

Now I am thinking like that motivation speaker abi?
I was one of the best in my class, I know all the interviewers I have meant know I am good, so if they do not find mw worthy! Perhaps it was because they are scared of me, I resolved.
I closed my eyes and think of what area I can command!

Catering? My mum will slap me for that! I am not a foodie, not ever fancy me about it, I know I am a good cook, at least I cook and everyone eat without complains but I never think of having a career there!
Makeup artist? No

Event Manager! No

Okay, fashion design? Well,…. Yes, I think I can take that, I am a fashion lover, in fact the plan is to have a basic knowledge to know how to make some basic garments for myself during NYSC but I never get that time and so I didn’t do anything about it.
Hmmm, I sighed, It was one of the areas everyone seem to be rushing into these days, we have over fifteen of them on my street!

Was that the best idea? I asked myself but I know that area was the best for me, because I know myself, however I prayed over it, I need God intervention.

I remembered a Professor word,

“in any thing you do, be the best you can be for that is the greatest weapon between you and your competitors. “
Exactly and I know that is what I must do, I just have to try to be the best…

To be continued...

Hello , I am back

For an efficient work, a patternmaker must have the proper tools in order to work accurately and perfectly. So we are going to take a look at some required tools for patternmaking and their uses. The following tools are the essential tools for a patternmaker. 1. Pattern maker 2. Pins 3. Scissors 4. Pen, pencils and marker 5. Rulers 6. Curves rulers (hip curve, French curve, vary curve). 7. Stapler 8. Tape 9. Tailor’s chalk 10. Measuring tape The above are the basic tools, now let us take a look at all the patternmaking tools and their functions. 1. All pins: All pins are fine, long, rust proof pins. Used for attaching muslin pieces together and for draping. Used to fasten parts and pieces of pattern paper. 2. Magnetic pin holder / pin cushion: Used to hold pins. 3. Muslin: A plain weave fabric made from bleached or unbleached yarns which vary in weight and in texture. Used to experiment and develop design concepts. 4. Push pins: Drum shaped 1/2" long p” used for pivoting and transferring points. Used to hold pattern pieces and fabric on table.

5. Tracing wheel: An instrument with small serrated or needle point wheel mounted on one end of a handle. Used for transferring markings from paper patterns on the muslin” 6. Tailor chalk: 11/2" X 11/2" square of white or coloured chalk of wax. Used for marking on fabric. 7. Notcher: Cuts a narrow U shape on pattern used to indicate seam allowance, centrelines, ease and dart intake. 8. 12" / 24" scale: Long ruler 12" / 24" metal or plastic. Used to mark straight lines to measure. 9. Measuring tape : Metal tipped narrow, firmly woven double tape of cloth or plastic usually 60" long (150cm) marked with both inches and centimetres. 10. Grading scale: 2" X 18" transparent straight plastic with grid in inches and fraction of inches (or millimetres) ruler. 11. Pencil: Used to mark lines in developing the muslin, pattern or sloper. 12. L-square: Plastic or metal ruler with two arms at right angles of varying lengths usually 12" and 24". Used to square off corners. Establish perpendicular lines, reference paints and lines. 13. Dress form: A standardized duplication of a human torso, cotton padded and canvas covered, set on a movable, light adjustable stand and compressible shoulders and sloper. Used to take measurements, develop pattern, fit garment samples to alter garments, to establish style lines for the garment. 14. Pattern paper : Strong white paper available in variety of weights and widths. 15. Newsprint paper : Used for rough drafts.
16. Thick brown paper: Strong brown papers for finished pattern. Used for preliminary patterns drafting and development of the final pattern. 17. Sloper/master/block/basic pattern making: A pattern of a garment, without style lines, or seam allowance developed from specific measurements of a given size, dress forms. Used as tool from which other patterns may be developed, to facilitate the development of original styles and to develop various bodices, skirt, dress, pants, sleeve designs. 18. Carbon paper : Coated paper on one side with white or coloured wax, used to transfer marking on fabric or paper. 19. Transparent tape : A clear plastic narrow continuous stripes with an adhesive surface on one side, available in roll. Used to hold paper pieces and mend tears. 20. Paper shears/scissors : A cutting instrument, ranging in size from 8" to 12", with two sharply pointed straight blades. Used to cut paper patterns. 21. Tailor’s shears : A cutting instrument ranging in size from 12" to 16" with two wide blades. Used to cut fabric and muslin. 22. Magnet: A high carbon alloy steel that has a property of attracting iron and steel can be of any shape. Used to pick up pins and needles. 23. Pin cushion : A small firmly stuffed pillow made in a variety of shapes and sizes. Used to hold pins, needles for easy accessibility and storage. 24. Curves curves  French curve: used for shaping armhole and necklines  Sleigh curves: used for shaping neclines, armholes, pockets, collars and curves.
 Hip curve: for shaping of hips, lapels, and hem  Vary form curve to blend and shape armhole necklines. 25. Stapler and remover: prevents pattern from slipping when working on more than one pattern papers. 26. Awl: used for piercing hole in a pattern to indicate the end of darts, pockets, and button hole placements.

Watch this video and see how I drafted my basic skirt sloper

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2Wld4Dn58g

Pattern making Tools
We don't have to get all the curve rulers and all the tools we see on the internet for pattern drafting before we draft a pattern.
Yes you heard me right.

Basic tools needed to draft a pattern include:

Pattern paper
Pattern master (this can serve as a curve ruler e.g hip curve, armhole curve , etc)
Long ruler
Tape
Tracing wheel
Pattern paper scissors
Pencil
Eraser

Now try and recognise each of the tools below by naming them in the comment box.

And so we can make our first pattern

launching of our online "let's learn sewing series." Subscription class , we are starting this February.
This is an avenue where you can learn sewing wherever you want , when ever you want and how you want it.
Sound interesting?

Courses to be taken includes
Freehand method of garment construction
This will be from beginners to the advanced level,
Pattern making method of garment construction
Sewing lessons
Fashion illustrations
Male wears from beginners to advanced level, using freehand method and pattern drafting will be taught
Kids wears
Fashion business
Fashion lectures

Imagine learning all these on one platform the way you want it.

Notes, videos, illustrations will be used to teach, one on one interaction with the teachers. What are you waiting for?
Subscribe for this class now
Monthly : 2500
Quarterly : 9000
Yearly : 25000.

What are you waiting for?
Whatapp the admin
07064347172 for subscription.

Enrol for any of our online courses this February;

Freehand method of garment construction class for three months from basic to advanced
Pattern making method of garment from construction course from basic to advanced for three months (class include sewing)
Kids wears course in freehand and pattern making method of garment construction for three months
Full female wears course (9 months including fashion business )
Full female wears course (including bridals ) (1 year)

Notes and videos will be used for teaching.

What are you waiting for , class is a one on one not a group class.
Whatapp 07064347172 to book your class.

Our promo class starts on 3rd October, registration is still on.
Learn fashion designing online from scratch to advanced level in 20 weeks (three times a week) or 30 weeks (twice a week)
Here are some of what we offer
Week1: theoretical aspects of fashion design
Week2: how to take body measurement
Cutting logic,
Basic blouse bodice construction
Week3: basic skirt construction, cutting and sewing of the skirt with and without facing and zipper.

Week4: kaftans
Week5: iro and buba
A line and pleated maxi skirts
Week6: pieces skirt and off shoulder blouse construction.
Week7: trousers
Week 8: tube blouse and jacket
Week9: collars and capes
Week10: jackets
Week11: trousers
Week12: cowl necklines, high low skirts,
Week13: evening gowns
Week14 &15: corporate wears
Week16&17: casual wears
Week18&19: bridal wears
Week20: examination.
This is actually some of what we offer because there is still more.
We help you achieve your dreams of becoming a professional fashion designer.
What app 07064347172 for more details
Or like our page Tohimah online fashion school
https://mobile.facebook.com/tohimah/?ref=bookmarks

To say Thank You, Tohimah fashion house is organising a big discount to a 20weeks online fashion design training from the beginners level to the advanced level @ discount fee of 35,000 naira only.
Courses to be taken are:
Pattern making,Skirts construction, blouses construction, sleeves, collars, gowns, corporate and casuals, bridals wears and a lot more.
Registration starts now and entries are very limited. For more info was app :07064347172.
Lectures starts : 26th of September, 2016.

Hello guys. It has been a really long time, sorry for not keeping in touch, trying to perfect some stuffs here, we will continue with our tutorials as soon as possible.... I promise.
Thanks for ur consideration.

Magnificent2:
How do I know my size for gowns e.g 17,18,.........etc

There are UK sizes and US size, you can browse on the standard body measurements. They u will know your size.

Olalekanmuinaty:
Pls am new here and am a beginner,please help me out

You are welcome and in the right place, cos we just started, just read all d past discussion. So that you can catch up.

Cutting Logic
Fashion designing is a very interesting professional and only practiced by unique and intelligent people. If you must survive in the industry, you must extra smart and extra careful, especially when we want to draft and cut out patterns, no wastage is allowed because we value every piece of available fabric.
There are several ways of drafting a style
Draping
Pattern drafting
Free hand cutting
The no1&2 types tried to economise fabric as much as possible but if one isn't careful with the third (freehand cutting) one is likely to end up wasting fabric.
There are things to.considered before cutting fabric
The design
The type of fabric
Measurements of the wearer
One have to be careful white cutting a patterned fabric, it won't be nice if the pattern fabric aren't drafted in a uniform way.
Now let dive into small calculation. Cos this will help determine the amount of fabric now need for a design.
After a measurement is taken, one must put seam allowance to consideration, the type of fabric will determine the amount of fabric required.
Let assume we are to cut a short formal dress with the following measurements using a free hand cutting procedure
Shoulder 16
Upper bust length 7
Upper bust circumference 33
Bust length 11
Bust circumference 36
Point to point 7
Under bust lenght 14
Under bust circumference 32
Waist 33
Hip 37
Gown lenght 35
Sleeve lenght 10
Sleeve circumference 12
To determine the amount of fabric needed, we look for the one with the highest measurement, the hip is 37, we put some seam allowance into consideration.
Front bodice: I do use 1.5" to 2" (but let assume we use 2" at each sides and since there are two sides(left and right) it sum up to 4" for front bodice
Back bodice: (there will be zipper at the back) just like the front bodice, we add 4" as seam allowance and 4" as zipper allowance making 8" in total.
Now let just add up, 4" (front bodice) + 8" (back bodice) = 12"
37+12 gives 49" for the width
Now let check the lenght
35" is the main lenght, we can add 2" for hemming allowance making 35"+2" = 37
Thus we cut out 49 by 37"
That is all
So easy right? I told you it only required little calculations.

Pls read through and ask questions so that we can move forward

It is important to consider the style and use of the garment when choosing the fabric. Your personal sewing skills should also be taken into account.

The style of a garment affects the material, and the material is a significant part of the look of the garment. Two pieces of clothing made with the same pattern but of different fabrics can look very different. Choose the material according to what you want the garment to look like. For example, if you want a bell skirt that flows and drapes smoothly, you should pick a thin and well draping material, such as satin. If you want the same skirt to be more structured, choose something stiffer and thicker, for example brocade or cotton or linen lawn. Remember that all materials are not suitable for all styles. If you are unsure of what kind of material to use, you can always ask help at your fabric shop.

The use of a garment is also an important factor to keep in mind when choosing the fabric. If the garment needs to be warm, you should pick a thicker and tighter material (or at least line it well). Similarly, if the garment needs to be durable you should choose a fabric that is hard-wearing. For time-consuming sewing projects and garments that should last for a long time, such as coats, it is always recommended to invest in good quality fabrics, even though they might cost a bit more. However, all garments should be made to last as long as possible, so it’s always wise to choose good quality materials.

The maintenance of a garment is also essential. If the piece is something that needs to be washed or ironed often, it is wise to go for a fabric that can take a lot of washing and is easy to press. In any case, all fabrics should always be washed and ironed before cutting, to prevent the final garment from shrinking.

The material also affects how easy a specific style is to sew. Thick and stiff fabrics such as cotton, linen and wool are usually easy to sew whereas thin, flowing and slippery materials such as chiffon and satin are often more challenging.

Typical clothing materials

Batiste (or cambric) is a very fine lawn weave fabric that is mostly used in shirts and blouses. Batiste is usually made of cotton or cotton mix, but also linen and wool are used. This fabric is soft and light, but very stable, which makes it easy to maneuver.

Brocade is a medium weight, stiff and decorative fabric that is commonly used in evening and formal clothing. Brocade is quite stiff, so it’s best for creating structured garments or generous volume. Because of its stiffness and stability, brocade is quite simple to sew.

Velvet is a tufted woven fabric with a smooth pile effect on the right side. Velvet is often made of cotton or polyester, and it can be inelastic or stretchy. Thick inelastic velvet is suitable for evening and outer wear, and it’s quite simple to handle. Elastic velvet can be used in tops and t-shirts, same way as tricot or jersey. Stretchy velvet is a relatively simple fabric, and it can be sewn with an overlocker.

Corduroy is similar to velvet, only with a striped pile effect. Corduroy is used in blazers and trousers, and it’s quite simple to sew. Choose a corduroy with 2-5 % of elastan for very slim-fit trousers. Avoid making decorative topstitchings on corduroy, as the result is usually quite messy.

Women often are said to be either short-waisted or long-waisted. To figure out where your waist falls within your overall physique — your “waistedness” — follow these simple steps:
Measure the distance between your armpit and your waist.
Measure the distance between your waist and the bottom of your bum.
Compare the measurements.
If the two measurements aren’t equal, you’re either short- or long-waisted: If the first measurement is shorter, you’re short-waisted. If the second measurement is shorter, you’re long-waisted.
The right fashion for short-waisted women
Maintaining balance is one important key to flattering your figure and dressing for your body type. If you’re short-waisted, you’re going to look out of balance with a top half that appears smaller than your bottom half. Finding ways to make your top half look proportionate to your bottom half, by making your waist appear longer, helps you achieve balance.
Try a top with vertical lines. These lines give the illusion that your top half is longer than it is. The stripes can be as subtle as a pinstripe blouse — anything that keeps the eye moving up and down right over your waist works.
Wear tops that you can leave untucked. This is another way of hiding where your waist actually is.
A deep V-neck draws the focus upwards and away from your waist (this is a little tip that works for everyone — not just short-waisted women).

dashintrends:
is the online class going to be on the Facebook link you posted?

No dear, it is on what app, we teach through chats, pictures n illustrations and also videos for easy understanding of our students, we also send E book at the end of each week lecture where the students can revise and practice what is being taught

Our August class start tomorrow. You are free to join any of our online classes of your choice. The available ones are:
1. Beginners class for 12weeks @ 10,000
2. Intermediate class for 12weeks @ 15,000
3. Advanced class for 12weeks @ 20,000
4. Corporate class for 12 weeks @ 20,000
5. Islamic wears class for 12 weeks @ 20,000
6. Skirts of different styles and designs class for 4 weeks @ 5,000
7. Abaya of different styles and designs for 4 weeks @ 5,000
8. Gowns class of different styles and designs for 4 weeks @ 5,000
9.blouses and sleeves class for 4 weeks @ 5,000.
For more info call 08124381784
What app : 07064347172
Email : irahimah@rocketmail.com
Facebook page :
https://mobile.facebook.com/tohimah/?ref=bookmarks

saranice:


A new SM not even up to 2months both up and down

How is your sewing machine now?

Kemiawo here is your request, I hope this is clearer, sorry for my late response.

Kemiawo2004:
still waiting for answere to my second request ma

Will do that soon

You can oil your machine after doing a few major works, or anytime you have used it for so long.

You oil every corners and every where that moves just a drop of oil.

Under bust
Full bust
Upper bust

Shoulder /back measurement :
sleeve measurement
Underbust
Hip

Let's start with this

Some do use the meters for measurement but here in this part of the world, we usually measure by inches.
I tried sending the picture yesterday but was unable .to, but i.will try again today before we continue our lessons.

To make the measurements explanation better, let us talk about the bust, a few of us might have issue with it.
One must measure professionally in order to get a professional finish.
Bust measurement is divided into three part
Upper bust
Main bust
Under bust
And each of them is being measured in twos
The length
The circumference.
Let us start this way
The upper bust: to measure the length, we placed a tape measure from the shoulder down to the upper part of the bust. The circumference is by measuring the width of the upper bust. (putting the tape round the upper bust)
The bust is the fullest part of the bust, it is usually more than the upper and the lower bust. We then measure from shoulder down to the fullest part (that way, we have measure the.length) to measure the circumference is by putting the tape round this side of the bust.
The lower is usually where the bra stops where one has a bra on. I believe we all know how to measure the length and circumference by now.

Measurements Taking
This is is one of the greatest important aspect of fashion designing. If there is a creative designer with out knowledge on accurate measurements, it is a like a car without petrol.
So measurement is very important and we must be accurate as possible.
There is the body measurement and garment measurement, both are very important.
Body measurment is taken before garment construction while garment measurement is taken while construction.
Important parts for measurement
Front length
Centre front lenght
Shoulder to waistline
Shoulder lenght
Bust circumference
Waist circumference
Hip circumference
Crotch depth
Knee circumference
Ankle circumference
Sleeve lenght
Bicep circumference
Elbow circumference
Wrist circumference.
A style a fashion designer has in mind will determine the measurement needed.
You are free to ask questions if any of these measurements is not being under stood.

Then I think you have to seek a professional service. Change the needle I do use 14, 16, 18, depending on the fabric I am using, so use a plain fabric and see if it works of not, seek a professional service

saranice:
I am really enjoying this class. Can i ask a question pls? Ok thanks for saying yes. My butterfly black sewing machine stopped stitching i applied all that you advised but still. Pls help me what else can i do?

How old is your sewing machine?
Is it the upper thread or the lower thread?

Don't worry we are getting there, read through and let's ask question before we jump to our next topic

How to get accurate body Measurements

Needle and thread
Machine needles are selected according to the weight and features of the fabric as well as the thread that are use in garment construction.
A needle should be fine enough to penetrate through the fabric without any damages done to the fabric in question and doesn't damage the thread.
Needles come in different sizes
Regular sharp needles: ideal for mostly woven fabrics due to its ability to produce even stitching with minimum puckering.
Ball point needle: slightly rounded tip reconmended for knit fabrics and stretch fabrics as the needle pushes between the fabrics instead of piercing them.. (in sizes 9-16)
Wedge point needle: this needle has been specifically designed for leather and vinyl

Needles should be chosen with great care for each fabric because not all needles can see all fabrics.
Care should be taken to prevent the needle from being damages. A blunt isn't fit to sew.

Threads are also of different types
Natural thread (cotton and silk)
Synthetic thread .
Study this diagram about the choice of choosing the right thread and needle for the right fabrics.

Plackets
Plackets are finished slips designed on garment bodice which can be pants, jacket, dress, sleeves etc. They can be designed according to the inspiration of the designer as it doesn't create and effect on d clothes.
Types of Plackets
Wing collar placket
Half pointed placket
Slip opening with placket
Regular shirt Plackets

Facings
Facing is a duplicate shaped piece of fabric stitched to the outside edge of a garment to conceal the raw edge.
There are two broad types of facings
Separate facings : individual facings for armhole and neckline.
Combined facing: all in one for armhole and the neckline.