Collars
A collar is a part of a garment that encircles the neckline and frame the face, and it is of various designs.
But there are some types of Collars which are very common and they are:
Petter pan collar
Sailor collar
Chinese collar
Shirt collar
Square neckline collar.

note : the pictures are according to the lists in the notes

Sleeves
Sleeves helps to change the look of a dress, and are classified into two
Sleeves can be cut separately or cut with part of entire bodice (just like in kimono or abaya).
Types of sleeves are:
Cap sleeves
Puff sleeves
Bell sleeves
Leg mutton sleeves
Raglan sleeves

Tucks
A tuck is a stitched fold on the right side of a fabric that look like a pleat. They are used as a design and can be placed on any garment and in any direction.
Types of Tucks are:
Pin tucks
Shell tucks
Release tucks
Cross tucks
Space tucks.
Let see how tucks look like in the diagram below

Garment Details (cont'd)
Now let talk about gathers.
Gathers change the look of a garment but it doesn't affect the fit. There are several types of Gathers but the major ones are:
Gathers at shoulder
Gathers at centre front bust
Gathers at neckline
Gathers at waist.
The images below will do justice to the understanding.

Pleats: this is an untitled fold like dart held securely along a joined seam line. It can be found in blouse, skirts, sleeves etc.
Types of pleats
Box pleats
Knife pleats
Inverted pleats
Accordion pleats
Sun burst pleats
Study the diagram below

Darts:
Dart: dart is one of the most popular creative aspects of garments construction. It helps to create fitness in garments, it can be created depending on the creative ability of the desugnier.
There re also type of darts:
Shoulder darts
Bust darts
Armhole darts
Centre front dart
Waist dart
Sleeve dart
Study the figure below

Garment Details.
Sewing is useless if one is not knowledgeable about the a finished garment. What is the use of a very good fashion designer that cannot give a deep detailed explanation about the garment you just designed.
This hereby bring up this interesting topic.
There are several creative parts used in completing a garment and some of them will be discussed briefly here:
1. Darts
2. Pleats
3. Gathers
4. Tucks
5. Facings
6. Packets
7. Collars
8. Sleeves.
We are going to take one after the other for better understanding.

tibaonnet:
cutting naa the Koko naa

Fashion designing goes beyond cutting and sewing alone. It is far wider than that, if one don't know the basics and foundation, one may find it very difficult to blend style with circumstances. But don't you worry dear, qe will get there very soon

Now let check out our needle.
1. Unthreads
Machine maybe out of top thread.

2. Breaks
Using incorrect presserfoot
Needle may be bent and hit the presserfoot
Needle may have defects or incorrect being inserted.
Needle may not be right for fabric




Stitches
1. Skip here and there
* needle maybe blunt or bent or wrongly inserted
*pulling of the fabric while sewing.

2. Have loops in between
* bobbin may be winding unevenly
*improper threading

Now let us talk about sewing machine in whole.
A. Motor runs bur handwheel does not run
* thread may be tangled in the bobbin case area.
B. Motor runs, handwheel turns but the needle doesn't not move:
* the needle have been disengaged or non tightened.
* the motor belt may be loose.

C. Motor, hand wheel, and needle moves but fabric does not feed
* make sure the preeser foot is down
*check the stitch length regulator
* the feed dog may be lowered or in down position.

D. Motor, handwheel, needle and fabric moves but no stitch is formed
* there may ne no thread on the needle
*bobbin maybe empty
*needle mat be inserted wrongly.

E. Machine running sluggishly
* machine may need oil or cleaning.
* bobbin winder may be disengaged

F. Run noisily
* need oiling or cleaning
* needle might be bent or not inserted well.
* Bobbin about to be out of thread
* bobbin may not be tight enough.

The picture below shows a presser foot and feed dog respectively.

Now something may be wrong with fabric.
1. Layers feed unevenly
*presser foot pressure incorrect
*may need to stitch slowly
* the fabric may be very light weight and may need while stitching.

2. Does not feed in straight line
* You may be pulling the fabric
* the needle may be bent.
*the presser foot may be loose or bent

3. Puckers when stitched
* the stitch may not be right for the fabric
* needle may be coarse, bent.
* thread may be too thick
* bobbin thread may be uneven

4. Shows feed mark on the underside
* presser foot pressure may be too heavy.
*the feed may be damaged

5. Fabric is damaged or holes around the stitches
* needle may be blunt or incorrect for the fabric.
* check the nick is the throat plate, foot, or feed.

So anytime we experience this, we are sure to know what's up.

Now let take a look at some machine problems and their likely causes.
Why must we spend so much money on sewing machine repair when we can do do some little repair by ourselves?
1. Bobbin
Does not wind
A. Make sure the thread is wrapped around the bobbin in proper direction
B. Check to see if bobbin is well placed
C. The rubber ring may be worn out and need replacement.

wind unevenly
A. The thread may not be inserted well
B. The tension spring might need adjustment
C. You may be running too fast.

The needle moves up and down while winding
A. Needle has not been disengaged.

So next time your bobbin experience any of this try and rectify it.
The figure shows how a bobbin look like.

You are all welcome to Tohimah online fashion school.

Now that we know about the sewing machine anatomy.
Let me chip this in, apart from the basic types of sewing machine, there are still subtypes
1. Straight sewing machine
2. Over locking sewing machine ( this are called weaving machine, used mostly on stretch materials and for both outer and inner finishing.

Kemiawo2004:
good morning MA, please I be got the following questions as regards the labelled anatomy of the machine: 1.does the following part mean the same thing? :backstitch lever =reverse stitch lever ,:stitch regulator =stitch selector, tension regulator =tension control ?

Yes, true. As per others, that weren't there, you can just browse on it. I haven't been able.to upload picture, that is why

Feed Dog: A small metal device under the presser foot which has teeth which carries the material along as it is stitched. It moves the material forward, by one stitch length, after each stitch has been drawn.
Hand Wheel: Handel is located on the right side of the machine. It is driven by hand or belt in the domestic machine and with the help of belt in the industrial machine. It controls the movement of the needle bar and drives the machine.
Hand Lifter: To lift the presser foot by hand. Head: The upper part of the machine above the stand. It is a complete sewing machine without the bed.
Knee Lifter: To life the presser foot by knee. Needle Bar: A bar at the end of which the needle is attached.
Pan: It is the metal pan under the head that catches oil, lint, broken threads.
Presser Foot: A foot which is used to hold the fabric while stitching. It is detachable and dierent types of foot are available for dierent functions e.g. zipper foot, plastic foot. Presser Foot Lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar to lift up & down the presser foot.
Shuttle: A device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin and forms the lock on the lock stitch.
Stitch Regulator: The length of the stitches is determined by graduation marks on the stitch regulating screw. As you increase the numbers on regulator the number of stitches per inch increases i.e. the size of the stitches decreases and vice-versa.
Tension Regulator: It is a mechanism which controls the tension of upper thread and the quality of stitches. The tension of the thread is adjusted with the help of spring and nut which controls the pressure on the disc. Thread Stand or Spool Pin: It is a metal rod tted either on top or on side of the stand to hold the thread spool.
Thread Take Up Lever: A bar/lever which is located above the tension regulator. It moves up and down. It has a hole through which the thread passes. It feeds thread to the needle and it also tightens loop formed and locks it. Throat Plate: A semicircular disc with a hole to allow needle to pass through it and also has marking in some cases which are used as guidelines while stitching

Let us take a look at the uses.
It is very important to know and recognise different parts of sewing machine.
1. Arm: the horizontal upper part of the head which is used for handling upper thread and driving the needle.
2. Back stitch lever: a lever located at the lower right hand side of the machine and has the ability to form the stitches in reverse direction.
3. Bobbin : a small metal spool that holds the lower thread supply.
4. Bobbin case: the metal case that holds the Bobbin. It has the tension spring that controls the pressure on the Bobbin thread.
5. Bobbin winder : it is use for winding the thread on Bobbin and it is located at the right side on the Bobbin thread.

Anatomy of a sewing machine

now we take a look at the sewing machine anatomy,

Sorry, slept off yesterday, as you know the weather is very cool.
Good nothing friends, how was your night.
Let's get started with machines, as I have said earlier, we have three basic types of sewing machine.
Mechanical machine popularly called manual machine is the most common type of machine due to its simplicity.
Electric machine: this uses electric, it can be a simple electric machine or an industrial.
Computerised, : this is latest type of sewing machine, the fastest and the neatest.
Not let us have a look at the samples

Personal sewing machines come in three basic types: mechanical, which are controlled by wheels and knobs; electronic,which are controlled by buttons and may have additional features; and computerized, which are controlled by customizable software that can offer more than 100 stitch options. Serger machines, quilting machines and embroidery machines are all specialty types of sewing machines.

Now can we go on?
Let us know our sewing machine

Class will continue by evening 9pm.
I want the course or be interactive as much as possible.

For pressing of garments: a pressing iron is required. It might be a steam iron, an electric or the likes. Ironing is greatly very important while sewing and before sewing. It helps to make the work neater, professional and the more we make it part of us, the more we get us to it.

Then finally, for sewing
There is the thread
The needle
And sewing machine.
A sewing machine can be different types (don't worry, we will have it in another lesson. )

Then for cutting out and shaping of the fabrics
The basic tool required is the scissors

For the marking of fabrics, the following basic tools are required:
Pen or pencil
Tailor chalk.

Measuring tools
One of the most important of constructing a garments is measurement, without an accurate measurement, garment designed is useless, no one wants to put on a oversize or undersized garment. Measurement is very important before, during and after sewing. and there are some tools that used in this aspect but the important ones are:
A tape measure: for measuring of the body size and the fabric to be used for construction.
A Ruler: this is used for drawing and joining lines and points on pattern and paper
Hope I am communicating?

now let's start from the beginning.
Before a clothes is made, it has to pass through five major processes
Measuring
Marking
Cutting
Pressing
Sewing.
Each processed has it own tools

Kemiawo2004:
am in too , but I got a question maam, as a beginner, please what's the name of this particular sewing machine we gonna start practical with?

You can start with any sewing machine of your choice but I will suggest we start with a manual sewing machine because of the low availability of electricity.
Very soon I will try and send uses of each basic tools.

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Study the picture above and ask questions of the uses