₦airaland Forum

dollarnaira:
I have trust issues with anything that requires crimping. I just go safe by soldering directly especially mc4 wahala.

Nice one. Haven't really thought of that. I don't like soldering, but it seems that has to be done.

If you are doing DIY, please crimp your wires well, and get a tool if possible. I was having issues with my cables burning one after the other (17 kwh battery running >5000 W at peak). Until a friend came by and found out my cables were not crimped well.
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That is why some people have hydraulic crimping tools. I lost several cable lugs and wire sections before I saw the issue. Crimping with muscle and pliers and crimping with a crimping tool is not the same. Your muscle cannot out-crimp a crimping tool.
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If you are not ready to spend and learn, leave DIY and buy from people who know what they are doing. There are so many things battery builders and other solar specialists have learnt from painful experiences. For instance, where they source materials, as there are too many fake products. (I have bought more than 7 improperly rated breakers; the last one I changed was tripping at 40A, although it was rated 63A). Don't cheap out on important components.
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Stay on this thread and learn. Read and read and know there is still more to learn. In DIY, you will first spend MORE before you spend LESS.
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This thread gave me the courage to build a 17kwh battery myself, at greater overall cost than Valto or Reed, cos I made some mistakes and had to buy some tools, but my subsequent builds should be less expensive. I knew it would be that way but I still went in for it.
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I think we should also state our failures more often, so others will learn. Learn from other people's pain and tears.

justasitis:
The 4.2KVA Luxsun inverter not being able to power your borehole 1.5hp submersible pump could be as a result of the following:
1. Does your Lithium Battery BMS support high current discharge because the 1.5hp pump will definitely draw high current at startup. As such a 200A BMS is recommended for a 24V Battery that is paired with a 4.2KVA Inverter.

2. Are you powering other electronics/ gadgets while attempting to power the 1.5hp pump because those other gadgets might overload the inverter.

3. What brand is your 1.5hp Submersible Pump because some brands are designed to pull excessive high currents during startup than others. You can check the power rating on the different brands available to confirm this.

Besides, I normally use the same 4.2KVa Luxsun Hybrid Inverter to power my 1hp Interdab submersible pump. It normally consumes 1.4kw but draws 2.2kw at startup. I even use the inverter to power my 1hp surface pump and cooker at the same time.

I'm happy you spoke about start up current. 1.5hp takes about 1700/1800w. But the problem is the start up current, which can be up to 4 times the running watts. So the 1.8 x 4 = 6kw-8kw for startup which may be too much for the inverter if it does not have a high peak power.

capnies:
@Valto
To promote your cells sale, I will advise you to top-balance the cells when a customer pays, before delivery as a way to promote your business and also get casings for 4s 8s and 16s packaging that will improve your business very well.

You Don't know me in person, but I am promoting this for the interests of Nigerians.

It will benefit all of us.

Top-balancing is one of the greatest drawbacks for DIY enthusiast's. So if you send then ready to couple cells, that makes it easier for you to sell your cells, bms and casing if available.

Think about it.

I've bought from you once, to build, but you don't know me.

Dear sir Valto, what sayest thou?

sirneyo2005:
This is solar module removed from a telecommunications equipment room it is normally inserted inside a device called pvdu I don't think you can use it unless you get a complete device box

Some people online have been using Huawei rectifiers without PVDU - check online. I'm looking into it. These industrial products seem to be more resilient than normal consumer-level stuff.

Good evening

Has anyone used this type of charge controller before? Where can I get them? How can I intergrate them into a solar system?
Thanks

helinues:
Both Muslim and christian are currently fasting and it's during the fasting the parties involved in this war chose to start

Religion na scam.

Nice choice of capitalization. It reveals where your loyalty lies.

Please, can someone explain how one of these is a PWM and the other an MPPT?

Just lost this boost converter. I removed the follow-come 15A fuse and replaced it with a '15A' fuse I bought in the market. The so-called fuse refused to blow at 30A, so the boost converter blew instead.
Even fuses are now fake. I'm tired.

Gshems:
Na to run the earth yourself. When I moved from sachet inverter to hybrid, I had to do a new earth for my inverter and solar panel

Any tips on how to DIY earthing for inverter and solar panel?

bassdow:
As for the Cable, just enter Omo Igbo Shop that selles electrical things, ask for made-In-Nigeria wire; it's same cable that NEPA uses to draw light from the pole directly into your compound. You know that wire NEPA cuts when you fail to pay for darkNess.

I agree. I now use recline (Aluminium) cables for my solar wiring from inverter and battery to busbar. I use the alumi wires from Cutix, Cometstar, or Lagostar because I have bought several 10mms but the outside sheath keeps melting. I'm tired of sifting through fakes.
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Before anyone says buy wire from a plug here - what happens when you just want to buy a small length of wire? The cost of the waybill may exceed the cost of the wire.

Abeg house
I have been seeing ads of used 2.5kwh pylontech batteries on jiji and Facebook marketplace. Are they worth it? Pros and cons? Real-life experience? Thanks in advance.

osayuwamwen:
My solar upgrade journey e nor easy I finally bought luxsun 4200watt 24v inverter yesterday, na panel come remain, pls were can i get original jinko monofacial solar panels in Benin?

Fouani dey Benin nah, but na bifacial them get. I think bifacial dey OK.

Mrreed:
Here you go

Oga Reed, can you sell battery and casing with cable connector i.e. everything, but without BMS? Because I need the comm ports and don't mind buying batteries and casing and everything else, but get BMS by myself?

Thanks

mctfopt:
Here you go:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzCxs76

Abeg who knows where I can get a soft-starter for a submersible pump. The initial power draws for pumps is almost 3X the power rating. Please, I'm not looking foe the expensive Schneider et al. soft starters with all the machinery. Just anything that will dampen that initial power draw.

Trippledots:
Got some 10kva units for clearance sale. (Gently used)

Do you have a Victron/SRNE charge controller?

Trippledots:
New cells or grade B cells?

Grade A but DIY. I think my cables from the inverter to care too long. Will reduce the length.

lebete3000:
There should be the best, na your money go kill am.

I know it's costly, and I'm ready.

It's Victron inverter 8kva or nothing else.

Won't waste my money on some Felicity shit and co.

Important questions to consider:
1. Why do you want a Victron?
2. Are you sure you want a Victron?
3. Do you know what a Cerbo GX is?
4. Do you know what an MK3 USB is?
5. How much of the Victron Ecosystem do you know about?
6. Are you sure Deye and SRNE cannot give you something similar?
7. If your Victron has issues, do you know where you can repair it?
8. If you find out a repairer, is the repair cost worth it?
9. How easily do other non-Victron components integrate with a Victron?
10. If you can integrate them, is it worth the time and effort?
11. Do you have the skill level to use a Victron (it is NOT plug and play)?

If you can answer the above confidently, then go ahead and buy a Victron 8 KVA - ~4 million, which is WITHOUT a charge controller. A Victron charge controller can buy about 3 high-end charge controllers from other companies, with minimal difference in function or quality.

Your money, your choice though. Enjoy.

Please can a 17kwh LFP battery be having voltage sag with a 1.5hp sumo pump? Anytime the pump comes on at night, the inverter trips. Inverter is 15KVA.
Any clues or insight will be appreciated.

bassdow:
only way to connect all 4pcs of 12v Tubular batteries to a 12v inverter is to connect them all in parallel using a very thick wire, then use another very thick wire to connect them to the 12v inverter. Ensure to have at least a breaker in-between.

If I were in your shoes, I would only connect 1 or 2 at a time.

Also if you wanna act like a techie, you could add a switch that would ensure only 2pcs of batteries are connected at a time hence you could use and charge the batteries while only using at most 2pcs at a time.

Curious. Why only 1 or two at a time? Why not the four?

mctfopt:
In my days of freestyle I use to favour Flames solar panels...but gone are those days...it's tier 1 or nothing. Also I'd rather buy a 6kw 48V Growatt inverter than that Icell inverter.

I no dey buy o. Na verify I dey so. Someone thinks he got a good deal but I wanted to verify. If you were to rate Flames Electric, what would you give it out of 10 points?
Second, what do you think of someone selling a Flames Panel at 60k for used 360W?

Please, I have two questions
1. Is the Icell X2 Series Inverter 10 KVA inverter a good buy at 600k used?
2. Has anyone use a Flames Electric 360W solar panel?

Thanks

If you are entering solar, you CANNOT afford to be totally ignorant. Many installers DO NOT fear God.
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I have become somewhat adept with solar, not by choice, but through pain.

1---
>> My first installer gave me an inverter that you could not switch off completely unless you disconnected the battery - with a lot of sparking if you wanted to reconnect it. There was no breaker in the inverter or between the inverter and battery.
>> Moreover, there was no way to disconnect the inverter from the grid. He connected the inverter direct to the grid with no way to switch it off in case a problem occurred or if I wanted to add a voltage regulator or anything to protect the inverter.
>> It seems he did this to maximize profit, without considering me or what troubles I would go through in case of any emergency.

2---
>> I have told the story of my second installer here, who gave me fake panels (producing 220W but rated at 450W).
>> He encouraged me to buy tubular and steered me away from lithium, so he could sell his stock.
>> That event is what broke me, and made me decide to learn about solar.
>> That is how I came here and I have learnt a LOT since then.

3---
>> I do not think I can trust any installer now. Many of them speak softly and kindly and seem helpful, but in their hearts are daggers - thinking ONLY of their profit and not the problems you will encounter when they are gone.
>> Second, many of them are not that knowledgeable. They entered solar work with gra gra and have not done enough research or improved themselves. Some cannot explain KWh, DOD, etc. in lay terms.
>> Now, I think the only thing an installer can do for me is to mount solar panels and do neat wiring, the rest I will do myself. The only time I may need an installer for wiring decisions is if I'm running a configuration >50 KVA. I have done my homework to this point. I'd rather have a problem of my own making than to have an installer rip me off. The rip-off pain is too much.

4---
>> Let installers learn to fear God because many of their clients are depending on them for guidance. Do not deceive them because God will punish you. Installers, fear God! He is real!
>> Let clients read a bit before buying solar, too many wicked installers around. Don't be a victim. However, the irony is that most of us who found this forum did so because we were victims.
>> If you are a solar newbie, ask all your questions here and be patient. Don't rush with any vendor. Even if a person gives a quote from this forum, wait and get other perspectives before proceeding. EVERYTHING in a solar installation can become problematic - inverter, charge controller, batteries, wires, cable lug termination, breakers, panels, earthing, SPD, etc. Read, read, and read. Like I told a friend - anyone who has a solar install, has a power generating station and CANNOT afford to be totally ignorant.

>> May God bless us all as we decide to walk in truth and righteousness this 2026.

mctfopt:
AliExpress
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvOqVCk

I have this charger. Got mine in Alibaba some months ago.

Thanks for the info, but I need something I can buy now.

Tdoctor:
House

Please where can I get an adjustable lithium charger/DC power supply that does 0v-60v and can charge at >20-50 amps?
This top balancing is sloooooooooooooooooow; the device below is unsuitable.

Will a buck converter work? Any one with experience?

dollarnaira:
Charge with your cc or grid at 48v then parallel them for few hours IT WILL WORK. Since battery can serve as a charger to one another in parallel. DO IT!!!

My brother, I've tried severally, before opting to top-balance. One stubborn cell is overcharged and will not allow the others to charge.

Tdoctor:
House

Please where can I get an adjustable lithium charger/DC power supply that does 0v-60v and can charge at >20-50 amps?
This top balancing is sloooooooooooooooooow; the device below is unsuitable.

I wont also mind one that charges at 3.6v at a high ampere rate.

Thanks

House

Please where can I get an adjustable lithium charger/DC power supply that does 0v-60v and can charge at >20-50 amps?
This top balancing is sloooooooooooooooooow; the device below is unsuitable.

Dam5reey:
For DIY to be perfect you need some Special tools and time testing before putting them into box.

Loosed connections can contribute to Cell voltage imbalance.

I built my first batteries used and still working till date.

In 2025, where batteries as their lowest price, You shouldn't be doing DIY, it's expensive task risk is too high, someone had his cells Swollen and had to replace the whole batteries.

It's not even cost effective to do in the first place.

If you want to learn and have fun, perfect it buy building 4s, then 8s, then 16s

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Bro, I'm willing to take the risk. I counted the cost before jumping in.
I am adept with tubular batteries and have so many tools for managing them. I have given out some tubular batteries to relatives because I was very confident of how I managed them, and they are still using them happily without issues.
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Unfortunately, LFP is a different technology, so I am facing the reality of purchasing new tools.
I have considered your post, and will buy the special tools. From study, I'm thinking, a precise DC charger, a bench DC supply, etc. I already have many electrical tools, but I would appreciate it if you can give me an idea of what specific tools I'd need.
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The initial price for DIY is expensive but it pays in the long run. For instance, I can now deduce that sometimes when an installer tells you that your lithium battery needs replacement, it may be just one or two cells that are misbehaving. You can simply replace them yourself.
You can also more tightly regulate the charge and discharge levels of your batteries, for better longevity.
You could install an additional active balancer, and switch off the one in the BMS.
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When I started the solar journey, I knew next to nothing, but this year, I installed a 15kva system by myself without any professional installer, with relay systems, timers, and automatic light and water pump control. I have enjoyed my development so far, and I'm willing to still learn.

dollarnaira:
Try any of these:
1. Dismantle all the cells and charge each cell up to 3.6v.

2. Charge to 58v or so dismantle and reconfigure in parallel for few hours.

3. Charge each to 3.60v from external source after charging to 58v without dismantling. Get a higher amp step down buck converter and connect to any source within the acceptable voltage of buck converter then step down to 3.60v.

Please always request for a top balance from sellers next time.

Your internal and external balancers will work but it will take time.

..
I have humbled myself and dismantled the setup to do top balancing

Fakeisfake:
Heavenly, you can say that again. Cable quality in NIGERIA is out of control.

I went to buy another 16mm to make some small upgrade, just as a premonition, I took a short lent of my current 10mm along. The total strands of the 16mm I was offered was not even up to the strands of the 10mm I was holding but the isolation/wrap of this supposed 16mm was making it all looking like a 25mm cable. Went round and it was all same mess. Had to improvise by using the two core as 1core for each +- lines...

How did we get here in just everything...

That is if the copper inside is of the same quality of the one you were holding. SMH